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Found 2542 results

  1. So while I've been painting some figures, my delightfully talented wife has been indulging her artistic streak. Basically she saw my feeble attempts, said "hold my tea!" and proceeded to give me a much needed humility lesson : ) While I've taught her everything I know, I in no way have taught her everything she knows... and it shows a bit, especially with her freehand : ) 77501: Minotaur He's big, he's blue, and he's coming to a labyrinth near you! 77022: Michelle, Female Human Ranger I just adore the shading & freehand on her cloak. 77441: Ostarzha, Elf Cleric The freehand on this is very subtle and hard to see, but utterly gorgeous. Translucent Green Weapon Sprue And while it doesn't really fit here, I can't see myself making a separate topic for it. Here's one of the green weapon sprue weapons I painted up with Tamiya Clear Green on the blade & pommel. Whosoever pulls this sword from this lump of blue "granite" will be the Queen of the Kingdom!
  2. brehaut

    77176: Familiars (Cat, Wolf, Bat)

    This weekend I painted up half the bones Familiars 1 set—the wolf, bat, and cat—as part of my plan to make it through some of my backlog. It’s been a really rewarding and fun set to paint, none of the minis take long, and despite the most of the figures being tiny the easy access to reference material made them pretty straight forward.
  3. Laoke

    Bones Blackstar Corsairs

    Hi there! You might remember me from such threads as "Bones! Do they blend?" and "How to use Tamiya Clear Paints to varnish your translucent patio furniture!". I don't paint much over the Southern Hemisphere Winter, as I'm too busy snowboarding, but now that the sun is out again it's time to start working through my Immortality Shelf and get some paint on some figures. Today we're looking at the Blackstar Corsairs: 80080: Blackstar Corsair Echo, 80079: Blackstar Corsair Delta, 80078: Blackstar Corsair Charlie, 80077: Blackstar Corsair Bravo, and 80076: Blackstar Corsair Alpha. In general these have all been painted up as a unit, using a speed paint method. The undercoat is MSP 09066 Blue Liner. The main base color is MSP 09288 LED Blue, shaded down with a succession of glazes of MSP 09280 Nightmare Blue. I love the shading this gives, it's a very striking effect. The visors I've done using a base coat of MSP HD 29806 Fireball Orage, working up to MSP 09051 New Gold, and then layering over Tamiya X-24 Clear Yellow. This gives a great depth of color to the visor, and is supposed to look like the gold leaf covering a traditional spacesuit visor. The back power packs are basically a MSP 0939 Pure White base, worked up to Fireball Orange on the central core & MSP 09094 Clear Red on the retaining arms. Details have been picked out with Vallejo Model Air 71.064 Chrome. The weapons are Blue Liner, dry brushed with VMA 71.073 Black Metal then knocked back with a wash of Nightmare Blue to tie them back to the rest of the figure even if only slightly. 80079: Blackstar Corsair Delta 80080: Blackstar Corsair Echo 80078: Blackstar Corsair Charlie 80076: Blackstar Corsair Alpha 80077: Blackstar Corsair Bravo
  4. I started a second first giant queen recently. I've done a fair amount of work on her so far but still have a long way to go.
  5. Zink

    77440: Masumi, Demon Hunter

    Grabbed this mini because I wanted to try out the Golden skin triad. I've also been reading and watching a bunch of painting tutorials and wanted to do a better job than my usual slop and smear. Pretty happy with how she turned out but disappointed somewhat with the metal on the weapons and her hair. Didn't realise you can't see her eyes very good in the photo until now but I even did a decent job on them. Would be happy to get any feedback on how to improve her hair and weapons. Someday I need to get some makeup tips too because whenever I try to do it on my lady's they look like a drunken nightmare.
  6. BellTower

    89005: Amiri, Iconic Barbarian

    Painted Amiri up as a Goliath barbarian.
  7. The thread about the Drider and centaur I Frankensteined up from some Reaper and Citadel parts reminded me of this little gem I put together this summer as part of a coterie of Drow. I was originally inspired by the Reaper Bones Conversions thread Chaoswolf started, which had some cool examples of substituting Bones torsos on the Bones Dark Elf Arachnid Warriors. Since Bones are so easy to cut and carve up and glue together, I thought I'd give it a try. So this is the spider body from Reaper #77182, Arachnid Archer, and the upper half of #77057, Juliette, Female Sorceress. I carved her carefully to leave a peg for the spider body, and I've carved out little sockets on the spider body for the bags and flasks around her waist. This is a dry fitting, where you can see the way the two pieces more or less fit together under the waist: Here she is glued. I used epoxy (I know, I know, but I like its space-filling qualities). I left it thin on the back of her torso and added another layer once it had dried, let it get to the gloopy sticky phase, and carved some striations in it with a bamboo skewer to match the hairiness of the spider body. Here she is primed with Reaper Brown Liner, ready to paint:
  8. Geoff Davis

    89012: Lem, Iconic Bard

    89012: Lem, Iconic Bard sculpted by Derek Schubert. This guy was supposed to be a speed paint, but I got too interested in putting diamond patterns on his clothes.
  9. I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here. Bones - Frequently Asked Questions Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.) Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (this document) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference One of the revolutionary features of Bones miniatures is that you can paint them straight out of the package. Because this is such a departure from recommendations for painting metal or resin miniatures, it is understandable that this feature raises questions and concerns for painters unfamiliar with Bones. Painters familiar with other types of miniatures will find that there are some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves, or that there are painting techniques or substances that require a little tweaking to use as a first coat on Bones figures. The Bones material is a little hydrophobic, meaning that it tends to repel water. Paint diluted with water, sometimes even just a little water, may display a tendency to bead up or pull away from crevices or higher raised areas. The more water added to the paint, the greater this effect. The first coat of paint applied to the surface can also take a little longer to dry than usual. The image on the left is a Bones figure straight out of the blister, the one on the right is a primed Dark Heaven metal miniature. Each was painted with a brushstroke of Master Series Walnut Brown paint of various dilutions. From right to left: undiluted; 1:1 paint water ratio; heavily diluted. On the Bones figure, the stripes painted with diluted paint display beading and pulling away, but the stripe painted with undiluted paint covers smoothly with clean edges. Once you apply a first coat of paint, primer or other appropriate surface preparation to a Bones miniature, you can freely use paint of any dilution and the full array of painting techniques! Painters who prefer to use thinned base coats, those who like to start with a dark wash over white primer, and those who use black or custom coloured primer need not despair! The following information will help you find ways to tweak your preferred techniques to work with the Bones material. It also includes information about brands of primer, paint and other substances that are known to work or not work well with Bones, and tests of the utility and durability of certain of these products on Bones. Slightly Thicker Paint Will Not Obscure All the Sculpted Details For years painters have been reading tips and tutorials that exhort them to thin their paints so as not to obscure the detail sculpted into their figures, and to obtain a better quality paint job. While it’s definitely the case that using excessively thick paint can affect detail and paint quality, I think it is also true that some people are worrying too much about this in regards to painting Bones. Reaper Master Series and Master Series HD are produced with a consistency pretty close to ideal for base coats. Several other miniature paint lines are produced in a similar consistency, or require only a small amount of water to reach the correct consistency. Two or three layers of such paint will not clog up all the detail on your model. Also, remember that when you paint metal or resin miniatures, you normally paint over a coat of primer. One layer of undiluted paint on a Bones miniature is equivalent in thickness (if not thinner) than one or two coats of primer on a metal or resin figure. The picture above is of four Bones bases. The tiny text relief sculpted into the bottom of these is a perfect way to test whether paint coats obscure small detail. Each of these bases was given four coats of a substance, and then brushed over with a paint wash to bring out the detail. (The bottles of paint and primer used in this test were fairly fresh, no more than a year or two old.) From left to right, the bases were coated with four coats of undiluted Master Series Pure White, four coats of undiluted Master Series White Primer, and four coats of undiluted Master Series Brush-On Sealer. I prepared a second base with the Brush-On Sealer as the wash didn’t quite turn out on the first. The word ‘Miniatures’ has lost a little detail on the base coated with four undiluted coats of paint, but apart from that both it and the primer coated base still have excellent detail. The text is still mostly legible on the bases coated with Brush-On Sealer, but some detail has been obscured. Wash Bones Figures Before Painting Many people find that the paint is less likely to bead up if the figure has been washed. Also, if you’ve had your figure out of the blister for a while, or you’ve handled it to remove mould lines or otherwise prepare it, you should clean it before painting, as it probably has dust and skin oils on it that may repel paint or cause paint to chip off after it has dried. All you need to clean it is some dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush. Give it a scrub, and then rinse it really well to get off all the soap. Let it dry before painting. (You can hurry up the drying with a hairdryer set on low.) Black Primer? Custom Colours? Paint One Coat of Paint over the Entire Figure First! Some painters prefer to paint over black or gray primer. Others start with a primer of a particular colour to speed up painting units. For example, you could paint a coat of khaki on a unit of modern army figures and be half way finished painting their uniforms. One way to get the same effect as a dark wash over white primer on Bones is to first apply an all-over coat of white paint, followed by a dark wash. (Keep reading for other ways to do washes directly on Bones.) Some Primers Work on Bones Traditional metal or resin miniatures need to be primed before any paint is applied. Paint applied over bare metal does not adhere well, and rubs off with even light handling. Primer etches into the metal on a microscopic level. Paint adheres well to primer, so using it forms a stronger bond. Bones figures do not suffer from this issue! Acrylic paint painted directly onto the Bones surface is as durable, if not more durable, than if you use paint over primer on Bones. If you still prefer to use primer, Reaper’s Brush-On Primer works well on Bones, and is available in black and white. Another product people sometimes ask about is gesso. Fine arts painters use gesso to prepare canvases for painting. Some people have experimented with liquid gesso as a primer for miniatures, Bones and otherwise. People have reported it working in terms of creating a surface that you can paint thinned paint over. Reports vary as to how durable the material is, so it may not be the best choice for miniatures that are going to be handled. For those who prefer to use spray primer, the best option is to use an airbrush to apply a coat of acrylic paint to the Bones figure. Reaper Master Series paint thins well with Golden or Liquitex Airbrush Medium, and maintains its strong adhesion, though I have found that adding airbrush medium does noticeably increase the drying time of the paint. Aerosol spray primers and some spray paints can have some issues with Bones (and with other plastics). The chemicals in some of these primers and paints do not react well with Bones. The main effect seems to be that the primer never completely cures, remaining tacky to the touch. Some will also fail to form a bond with the Bones material. The following is a list of aerosol paints and primers that people on the Reaper forums have reported testing on Bones. Please consider the list just a guide. The best idea is to test your chosen spray by using it on a small Bones figure you don’t care about a lot. After you give the spray time to cure, carefully look over the figure to make sure the chemicals in the spray haven’t reacted with the Bones material to melt or otherwise damage it. If not, test the primer surface by touching it to see if it stays too tacky to paint over. Also, flex parts of the figure to make sure the primer doesn’t crack. Note: Some people have successfully used Krylon primer, and possibly other spray primers that some people have reported as problematic. And other people have reported problems with primers that some felt worked well. One difference seems to be that a light spray rather than a heavy coating is more likely to minimize tackiness. Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity are also always a big variable with any spray product. Recommended aerosol spray primers and paints: Army Painter white and coloured primers Krylon Dual Paint + Primer Duplicolor Sandable – slight tackiness possible Rust-oleam Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2x – slight tackiness possible Problem aerosol spray primers and paints: Krylon white primer – doesn’t bond, stays tacky Testors Enamel flat black – stays tacky Walmart Valu flat white – stays tacky Krylon Primer red-brown – stays tacky Citadel spray Use a Medium to Thin Your Paint or Make a Wash Water is the element in thinned paint that causes it to bead up on the Bones surface. If you try thinning your paint with a dilutant other than water, you may be able to create a mix that is closer to the consistency you like to paint with. Depending on what you use, you can even create something translucent enough to act as a wash or glaze directly on the Bones. Mediums designed to work with acrylic paints are good products to try. Examples are matte medium, glazing medium, airbrush medium. Reaper’s Brush-On Sealer can be used this way. Note that many of these products are a little less fluid than water, so they may not dramatically change the consistency of the paint (it’ll still feel a little thick rather than watery, but it will look a lot more transparent). You can also test adding just a drop or so of water to your mix of paint and medium to see if you can get closer to the consistency you prefer. I diluted some Master Series Bone Shadow with various mediums to make washes. From left to right, the products are listed below. Master Series Brush-On Sealer: I added one drop of water to a large drop of paint and several drops of Sealer. Worked well. Liquitex Matte Medium: A thick product. I added a drop of water. Beads up too much to work well for a wash. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Another thick product, I added a drop of water to my mix. Took longer to dry than the others. Did not sit in crevices well enough to work well for a wash. Very shiny finish. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Applied well, dried quickly. Even application of the colour. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Worked decently, seems a bit more inclined to pool in the crevices with less colouring on the surfaces. Shiny finish. ADDEDUM (not pictured) Golden Acrylic Flow Release (undiluted): Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Shiny finish. Reaper Flow Improver: Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Finish is shiny in areas where wash pooled. Use a Medium as a Primer Because of how well acrylic based products adhere to the Bones material, it is also possible to use mediums as a primer alternative. Once dry, you can paint over them using thinned paint. These are applied by brush, or possibly with an airbrush. I tested a number of different brush-on products on some Bones Cave Trolls. These were straight out of the package and had not been cleaned. After the products dried, I applied a thin coat of paint to see how it behaved over each product. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer: Exhibited slight pulling away from some high or curved surfaces, though generally it just required running the brush over that section again to establish coverage. Dried quickly. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer: No significant beading. Dried quickly. Paint was less durable than with the other products, see the durability testing section for more details and pictures. Golden Airbrush Medium: Bubbled a bit when applied, thin enough to pool a bit in depressions. Took more than 40 minutes to dry. This product works well if you use a drop or three to thin paint down for a base coat, although it does increase the drying time slightly. Due to it drying time, this is not the best choice as a primer alternative or for thinning washes that will be applied directly over Bones. Liquitex Matte Medium: Somewhat thick. Minor beading and pulling away. Significant beading when thinned with water. Dried quickly. When paint was applied, there were still some mild occurrences of paint pulling away from higher/curved areas. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Pretty thick consistency. Dried fairly quickly. The paint coat still beaded a little. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Dried fairly quickly. Paint went on quite nicely. Also works on metal miniatures. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Dried quickly. The paint layer exhibited slightly pulling way. Folk Art Blending Gel: Extremely thick. Beaded up too much to use. Not pictured as it worked too poorly to continue to the testing stage. Speed Paint Drying with a Hairdryer Whether on a Bones or metal miniature, if you find that your paint is taking too long to dry, you can speed up the drying by using a hairdryer on the low setting on the paint. If the paint you’re drying is a wash, you should let it dry naturally for a little bit, or you risk blowing the paint out of the crevices and depressions you want to darken. Testing the First Coats for Durability Once you get your paint applied, you want to make sure that it stays there. In my experiments, the most durable Bones miniatures are those where the first coat applied to the miniature is undiluted Master Series paint. Several of the other substances I tested were pretty close in durability, but it should be noted that there were a few that performed poorly. I painted these ghosts in August 2012. They accompanied me to Gen Con and Pax Prime 2012, stored loose with some unpainted Bones in a plastic container I carried in my backpack. Their travels included a six hour car ride and return plane trip. At the conventions they were handled extensively by dozens upon dozens of people, including being tossed on tables. The paint jobs were stressed pretty much equally through the Gen Con trials. The ghost painted only with Reaper Master Series paint was handled a lot more than the others during the Pax Prime trials. The ghost sculpt has some thin and thus particularly bendy areas, most notably on the hood and where it meets the tombstone. I flexed these parts by hand repeatedly to additionally stress the paint. Unfortunately I chose poor colours to easily be able to see all the damage in the photos. After the first coat I used painting techniques of thinned layers and washes with no difficulty and with the same effect on each of the miniatures. From left to right the first coat on each miniature was as follows. Undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint: Displayed the least damage during the Gen Con trials. Following Pax, has some chips at the flex point on the hood and near the tombstone. Was handled a lot more than the other figures. Reaper Master Series Brush-On White Primer: A few very small chips at the flex points, and some paint has scraped off a few sharp protruding areas. (Edge of the hood, finger tips on one hand.) Dupli-Color Sandable White Primer Spray: The unpainted base stayed slightly tacky to the touch for weeks after priming. The figure has several small areas where paint was scraped off, but only one chip on a flex point. Testors Dullcote Spray: This product created a good surface for painting, but performed very poorly in the paint durability tests, and I would not recommend using it as a primer substitute if you plan to use your Bones for gaming. Chips formed on the major flex points early in the Gen Con testing, and the paint has flaked off extensively from there. The figure also has some small areas of scraping damage, but those are no more notable than on the Brush-On Primer or Dupli-Color figures. I wanted to perform a similar test with the other surface preparation products I tried. First I painted on an additional coat or two of paint. Then I placed the figures loose in a plastic box with some other Bones, a wooden, MDF and plastic base, and a metal figure. After wrapping the box in a towel secured with rubber bands, I put it in my dryer on the air setting for 10 minutes or so. The green painted areas on each figure are those that were painted over the primer alternatives. The brown painted areas are Master Series Paint directly on the Bones surface. (These were part of tests for methods to remove mould lines.) The brown areas on each exhibit very little damage. Some have none, some have a few small chips or scrapes. (However it should be noted the brown area of this sculpt has far fewer surface protrusions than where the green was painted.) From left to right: Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer White; Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer; Golden Airbrush Medium; Liquitex Matte Medium. Three of the four show pretty similar levels of damage. The figure painted with Brush-On Sealer as a primer displays the most paint damage of all figures tested in this series. From left to right: Liquitex Glazing Medium; Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium; Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer. Damage levels are pretty similar to the better performers above. The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium and Liquitex Glazing Medium performed the best of the seven products tested. (The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium performed better in terms of acting as a primer, and is inexpensive, so would be my recommendation between those two.)
  10. Adrift

    23 additional September figures

    Friends! Here are 23 additional figures I painted in September. The results are largely for tabletop, or slightly better than tabletop quality. The Dreadmere Hunter was a free miniature at ReaperCon...I hated it but got it for my son, he loved it and his little 8-year-old heart decided that it was to be his DND ranger I also painted the Barrel Mimic which Galladoria Games gave away as a new attendee this year. I painted a DGS miniature named Jhenkar (a small version of the Neverending Story dragon). I also painted two Red Box Games miniatures, Derek the Dim and Hvitarnor (first time doing a 5-o'clock shadow). Lots of experimenting with TMM and NMM. Just having fun, trying things and enjoying making progress...
  11. I have a Halloween themed adventure coming up, and I have been hyping how scary and gory it will be to the players. Unbeknownst to them, it will actually be a lighthearted romp featuring these Halloween themed cereal monsters! Instead of horror and frights, the players will be solving goofy puzzles, trick-or-treating with monsters, and hopefully having a fun time! I enjoyed painting these figs, especially the Clay Golem (77170) for Frankenberry, which was mostly an experiment in layering paints. The Vampire (77282) as Count Chocula was most challenging, as I was limited to a brown palette. Critiques and advice are always welcome! Thanks in advance!
  12. Adrift

    ReaperCon 2018 Speed Paints

    I thought this year would be my last ReaperCon. Somewhere along the line, I forgot the joy of speed painting and just painting miniatures for tabletop quality that I can use for gaming, etc. Somewhere along the line miniature painting became something that had to 'wow' or be appropriate for competition. I rediscovered my love of miniature painting at the Speed Painting, Sophie Says, and Paint by Die Roll tables at ReaperCon 2018; having 45-60 minutes to paint a miniature was such an exhilarating challenge and I present to you my fun!!! Barnabus the pirate was a Paint by Die Roll. Esme was a Speed Paint. Judas was a Sophie Says. Michelle was a Speed Paint. Ogre was a Paint by Die Roll. Sekhmet was a Paint by Die Roll. Trista was a Sophie Says.
  13. First up is Terezinya, Bonepander Wizard (Reaper 77173). She had been sitting on my paint desk partially painted for so long that her base got dusty, oops. She always gave me a pirate wibe, hence the plank base. Nienna, Female Elf Ranger (Reaper 77091) is another one that sat partially painted for a really long time. All that green, how do I paint all her knickknacks in an interesting way without making her stand out in forest? Finally just brute forced it to get her done. Trista, the White Wolf (Reaper 77094), she didn't languish as long as the other two, but like normal I got stuck on deciding on colors for all the details. But with 3 off the desk of shame I can start on something new!
  14. Sarducci

    77064: Kavorgh, Orc Warboss

    Continuing my paint up of all the bosses in the Forge of Fury, here is Kavorgh, painted up to be the Orc Wight Champion. My first time playing with a light box to get better pictures too :)
  15. Morihalda

    Mori Learns Skintones!

    Whoo! I primed these all last month after ReaperCon. And then they just sat there while I finished other stuff. But now my desk is clear and I'm ready for more art! I am solidly in the "paint a solid color on the mini with a little shadow and highlight because I wanna play or sculpt" category. I also feel like I could have given my most recent sculpt a lot more love simply by not just painting her all the same shade of brown, haha! So I've gathered up my paint, a handful of bones minis, my notes from Rhonda, Derek, and Erin, and now it's time to learn how to paint skin! I'm really excited to try out different expressions, skintones, and lighting. I went ahead and primed them so if we need them for any games, they won't have blinding white clothes on. I'm not certain on all the names, but all except maybe 1 or 2 of these were from my Bones III Kickstarter order. I don't want to get pinged for nudity, so I gave this dryad a cute little Space Age dress in case she accidentally gets in the frame while I'm working on other pieces. I'm pretty pleased with it. ;)
  16. planetmut

    Bonesylvanians - Lon (again)

    After painting the Bonesylvanians Lon figure to look like my girlfriend's dog Erebus, I decided my dog Cadbury deserves the same treatment. He's wearing purple trousers because Cadbury chocolate comes in purple wrappers. I don't know why I did the belt in orange though. And please ignore the crappy job on the base. Here he is in real life:
  17. GodOfCheese

    Imperious Swordswoman

    This bones mini came attached to a rectangular base, like a coffin-top. The base was larger than a standard grid, so I chopped it off and stuck the mini on this base instead. I figured it would give her a fun windswept look, like she was glaring down at the battlefield from a height. :-) The TMM globbed in a strange way on this mini that wasn't obvious to the naked eye. I'm wondering if some of this is glare...? Next problem: the base made her too tall to fit into my miniature storage...
  18. Adrift

    8 Bones Orcs

    Here are 8 of my 16 Bones orcs. I cut each figure off of their broccoli base and used my Basius basing pads to create custom bases. Additionally, I did some kit-bashing with plastic weapons from the Bones 3 Kickstarter. I swapped the two-handed sword from the Orc Berserker for an axe which I envisioned him taking from an elf or dwarf. For the Orc Hunter, I cut off his spear and swapped out a mace and dagger combo since I felt like he could pull off a rogue look. In my DND world, 90% of orcs are olive green skinned, and 10% are of a subrace known as Dreadnaught Orcs. This breed of orc has purple-hued skin tones due to magical enhancement by mages from a long-forgotten war. They're smarter, tougher, and have innate magical abilities. I went for a variety of skin tones to try and make them look more unique. Orc Stalker 77051 Orc Berserker 77059 Orc Marauder 77042 Orc Chopper 77431 Orc Slicer 77432 Orc Hunter 77045 Orc Sniper 77056 Kavorgh, Orc Warboss 77064
  19. Evilhalfling

    Golddigger clan, dwarves first 5

    I have 13 dwarves from bones 3. I decided that I should paint them as a clan. then the Colorado painters (CMPA) did a three color challenge. I rolled golden yellow, winter blue and leather brown. after I painted the first one (Hagar with 2 axes) I thought why not stick with it? thus the golddigger clan was born. after the first, I used other colors but stayed with the theme. 13 is an unlucky number, I should probably add a halfling burglar. 77482 Hagar, twin axes 77482 dwarf brewer 77479: Klaus Copperthumb 77569 dwarf Jester 77413 dwarf female shaman argh her hair is a little blotchier than I wanted, let's add a wash.
  20. Felltyde

    Bloody mess

    Can’t remember the mold, sorry...added some GW heads I had laying around. Needed an executioner for a game...seemed fitting
  21. GodOfCheese

    Air Wraith

    I decided that this guy should be a murky wraithlike creature composed of pollution and toxicity. Kind of an undead elemental, or hostile free-roaming vapor. ;-)
  22. I love this figure. Not so much the bendy weapons, but I straightened them out. They have bent back a little (Sword). I did a WIP on him. Thanks for the encouragement along the way. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/80720-kord-the-destroyer-bones/ He is another for our Reign of Winter Adventure Path. My DM said "Vikings." Kord has that vibe for sure. I tried to paint the base like grass. The hardest part was the nmm on the axe, and trying to get the runes to show up on the sword. It's a very irregular axe shape, so it was tough to figure out how to do it. My green stuff patch job on the wolf pelt was not the greatest, but it is decent enough camouflage. The second-hardest part of the figure to me was figuring out what parts of the pelt were what. What is tail? What are legs? I did my best. Overall, I'm pleased with him. He seems like such a bad-a$$. As for the pics, iPhone seems to be good for far away, but really "blobby" for up close. Maybe it is suffering from zoom. C&C Welcome.
  23. SparrowMarie

    Sparrow paints Marthrangul

    So I'm currently in the stages of prepping Marthrangul for a contest. I'm also painting the Frost Giant Queen as a backup entry. So once I get started of love all the C&C I can get. I have a little less than a month to do him in.
  24. I have finally started working on my many Bones minis. This first one is 773000 Antipaladin by Bobby Jackson. It is mostly an experimental/ practice piece. I am not completely happy with my mold line removal, but in this case I am not going to worry about it too much. Mostly it is to get me acquainted with working with Bones minis and to experiment with my new Scale 75 metallic paints. I am not happy with all of the photos, my old photo setup got broken and I haven't gotten it replaced yet and just as I was taking these pictures one of my light bulbs went out and I don't have a replacement. Should be able to get better pics once I get a new bulb. First off I base coated the cape with Nightmare Black. This was a new paint purchase and I wanted to play with it. Really like this color. Next I used Faded black to Undercoat the skulls on the armor. I'm planning to do these in a metallic steel. Used Tanned skin as a base coat on his head. Next came Ultramarine Shadow for the armor undercoat. I really like this color for this as I am going to do the majority of the armor in a dark blue steel tone. The only down side is that the blue colors are fairly transparent and so take several coats to get good coverage. Looks like I am having some chipping issues, but I think I have that issue solved. Hope to get some more work done on him soon if life doesn't make me do other things first
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