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Found 33 results

  1. So, finally getting started on some of the ideas i had from the replies in my last post and some techniques that will be BLATANTLY ripped off from posters of said ideas (thanks and sorry in advance Pingo if i butcher your technique in the tweaking of it). For our campaigns end game battle i found a model i thought would fit the bill. Its base has some almost rune patterns that i wanted to pop and be seen. i'm not looking for lava because ... that doesnt fit to me with something that has been "summoned", but i want high contrast of what i'm sure will be the stone floor of the secret chapel deep inside the high lord of the city's keep. Dry brush seemed like a good way of doing it but i am a time pressed individual so i was looking for a way to do that at faster pace than with a brush. i thought high density foam roller... but that wasnt right for the surface but i picked up some cheap foam brushes from Walmart tore off the side down to a manageable width and went for broke... dont think it turned out bad so far. I still intend to make the higher stones actually look like the stone floor than the blacked charcoal they look like now with some dark grey - white transition. But i think i will leave the charcoal look for the lower more central... not completely sure yet. My biggest issue is still knowing when the hell to STOP applying... someone once said "paintings arent finished, they escape" and so far i dont think any of mine have got out in time. Next up in this trial run is a wizard mini for my son that i want to try Pingo's initial priming technique on... this should be interesting
  2. Funded

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/wamp/fusion-bases Fusion bases offer a quick and easy way to create great display quality wargaming miniature bases and plinths with little effort.
  3. So I have Kahnjira and it's slowly coming together my big problem though is it just will not stand straight up on the base. Whenever I attach the model to the base it just tips over. I've tried boiling the base to make sure it was flat and as far as I can tell it is as flat as I can get it. So my question is, is there a way to use something to put up under on the inside of the base or something to mount the base to that will help? Any suggestions as to what I might use to do either of these is greatly appreciated as well.
  4. Since Bryan has shut down the Basius 2 Kickstarter thread and asked that we continue any discussion with how to use these Stamp Pads in the Craft Section. I've opted to go ahead and open this thread. This is a group/open thread for us to learn how to use our pads and obtain best practices with all the different kinds of basing materials that are available to us. Please feel free to share how you did something (with pictures) and what material(s) you used. Keep off-topic chatter to a minimum so that the thread doesn't get out of control. Most of all... Have fun! First off, the pads that were in the Basius 2 Kickstarter Pad 01 - Imperial Pad 02 - Mountain Pad 03 - Sanctuary Pad 04 - Kings of War Pad 05 - Hex Pad 06 - Plaguelands Pad 07 - Elven Pad 08 - Warpath Pad 09 - Dungeon Pad 10 - Battle Zones
  5. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1701708364/warlocks-tower-wargaming-bases Calling all wargamers! We’re introducing a brand new range of scenic, plastic bases for round-based wargaming.
  6. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dragonforge/oakk-wood-floors-base-sets?ref=category_newest Dragon Forge Design Brings you a new set of Wood Floor Round Lip Bases . Includes 30, 40, 50, 80 and 120 mm sizes plus Heroic Sets.
  7. More from the Memorial Day paint binge challenge. These are made by Scibor and I thought they were cool just by themselves. I painted them up to use as scatter terrain or objective markers. The bases are 1" square.
  8. In a gaming Facebook group I'm a part of, someone asked a question - do you prefer plain black bases, or detailed terrain bases? The question seemed obvious to me. When I started painting miniatures, bases were either broccoli or square, and a plain black base was looked at as an unfinished base. At the very least you sanded and drybrushed or flocked them. The answers in the group surprised me. Out of dozens of answers, the overwhelming majority preferred plain bases. They felt that detailed bases took away from the miniature, and that it was counter-immersive to be playing a game and have a dwarf with a snow base, and elf with a forest base, and a fighter with a desert base wandering around in the same stone floored cave. It was also notable that the vast majority preferred round bases. Some of those that did didn't just prefer them, the vehemently hated square bases. I wonder if some of the change in views on bases are a result of the popularity of the pre-painted D&D minis line over hand painted miniatures over the past decade? Anyway, it was an interesting enough discussion that I thought I'd bring it here and see what people had to say.
  9. This thread is a place to share images of and ideas for materials to use on bases and dioramas. Remember, no commercial links. The goal is to share ideas and show what we have on hand. INDEX Aryanun's photo of basing supplies. George's flock and grass thread.
  10. I've had a few people asking me about how I based my Bones in my W.I.P. thread, so tutorial time! Although this is a tutorial, I'm still new to the World of minis and mini painting and basing myself, and this is just things I've learned through tinkering and looking at things other people have done. You may have a better way of doing things, this is just how I've been basing my new Bones minis. I have two tutorials here, one for basing Bones onto pre-made bases with pins and one to incorporate the existing broccoli base onto a plain plastic base with green stuff. Pinning Bones onto pre-made bases: You will need: - Wire cutters (or something to cut the mini off of the base) - Push Drill / Pin Vice - Tweezers or Pliers - Sharp x-acto knife or scalpel for cleaning up the last of the base from around your mini's feet - Super glue - Thin wire or paperclips - Bones minis - Pre-made bases. I used some Micro Arts Studio 25mm resin bases - Sharpie Start by taking your wire cutters and cutting notches around the broccoli base, this will make it easier to trim off without damaging your mini's legs. I save most of my Bones base off-cuts, because I've found it handy to use as rocks and other things. After you've removed the bulk of the base remove the stuff in the middle. Don't worry if there's still a bit of base stuck to their feet. The feet are a bit messy, this is when you take your very sharp knife and gently clean up the edges. After I clean up the sides I'm often left with these big heels, to remove those I carefully insert my knife just under where the feet end and slice. Now we have nice clean feet! Drilling time! Take your time with this, keep pulling your drill out and cleaning the plastic out of it before putting it back in. The legs are very bendy but you shouldn't have too much trouble drilling a 2 - 3mm deep hole in each foot. Be careful to drill from where you know the drill can go up the leg, the last thing you want is to drill through the top of your mini's toes. I cut 2 5 - 6 mm long piece of wire to go in each foot. I know many people put a strand of wire in first, then cut it. It doesn't really matter which order you do it in. Apply a single drop of glue to the bottom of each foot, and using your tweezers or pliers push the wire into the hole you've drilled half-way. To to figure out where the holes will go in your base! I place the mini on the base and mark with a Sharpie where I should drill each hole in the base. Drill the hole in the resin base where you've placed the dots. Put another dot of glue in each hole you've just drilled in the base and insert your mini. Sometimes you'll need to hold your mini in the desired pose for a few minutes until the glue is dry enough for your mini to stand up on their own. Sometimes you'll be left with a small gap like this where you can see part of the pin under the foot. If this bothers you you can cover it with green stuff. Filled-in with green stuff! Now we're all done! Your mini is now secured firmly on a pre-made base and ready to go kill some Goblins. Sculpting your own base with green stuff: You will need: - Green stuff - Water and lubricant of some kind for the green stuff. (I use water based lubricant, but stuff like Vaseline works well too.) - Super glue - Sculpting tools - A bumpy rock - Bones base off-cuts or kitty litter to be used as small rocks - Bones mini - Plain base I'm using a small Fairy Dragon for this tutorial, but you can use anything. If your broccoli base over-laps the edge of your plain base a bit, just trim off the excess. To attach your mini to the base, put a few drops of super glue on the base and hold your mini there for a few minutes. I haven't covered the slot here because we're be covering it over with green stuff when the glue is dry anyhow. Mix some green stuff. I find while I'm mixing the green and yellow parts together, it helps to occasionally dip it in some water to stop it from sticking to my fingers. Then roughly place the green stuff onto your base around your mini. Now clean up the green stuff a bit more. When using sculpting tools with green stuff, dip them in lubricant first before applying them to the green stuff! If you don't your tools will stick to the green stuff, and you'll often end up pulling more material off than you put down. After the green stuff is dried any excess lubricant around can be wiped off with a cloth, so don't worry about using too much or having your paint not stick. I've never had a problem. No need to be too careful here, since we're about to add texture with our rock. Take your bumpy rock and push it into your prepared green stuff in fast, random motions. We're not going for uniformity here, so turn your rock around and make as much of a mess as you want. Texture added! Sometimes if I want things more random and chunky, you can add more holes with toothpicks or the end of a pencil. Now add some kitty litter or Bones base cut-offs as small rocks and viola; you're done! When I sculpt my own green stuff bases I don't tend to be too worried about covering the entirety of the original broccoli base, since they usually have a nice texture to them any way. I like re-basing my figures for stability and because I like the look of them mostly. After your green stuff has dried you can all sorts of things to make your base more interesting; like more rocks, small leafy bits, the sky is the limit. Let me know if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them.
  11. Here are some cool PDF files for basing: News Papers, Magazines, Beer Cans, Waning Signs On page 55: more News Papers, Magazines, Cans, DVD's and others Oh, important, on page 54 you can see how you can make Coke Cans with a Q-Tip!!!! Different Police Lines and Warning Signs (does not work anymore) If you do know more similiar Documents or Pictures, please post them!!!
  12. almost funded.. 13 days left https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/poweredplaygaming/poweredbases-plugandplay-led-kits-for-minis-and-sc/posts Our kits make it super simple to add the effects you want. Just drill your holes, run your wires, and plug it in. No more soldering! No more electrical engineering. Just simple lighting options to make your pieces stand out without the headache. Got something that you’ve always wanted to light, but it can only fit a watch battery? We’re building upon our past successful LED launches, and filling the gap for small vehicle and model lighting kits. What Are You Offering? PoweredBase Kit Unwrapped PoweredBases are the first plug and play option for lighting small models that sit on bases of 40mm or larger. It works with your existing bases, so there’s no need to swap out all of your beautifully modeled pieces The basic kit comes with: Round PC Board with attached watch battery connector (battery not included) 3 single-bulb LED strings with pins attached Several LED Connectors Matching diameter concealer ring 3M Mounting Square Quick Start Guide Simply put, all you have to do is drill the holes in your model and base, route the wires and plug them in. We kept the connectors off of the wires, to ensure that you only needed to drill the smallest hole possible. Then you just stick the mounting to PC Board and base; and slip the concealer ring over to hide everything. The first size we're creating is 40mm round bases. You’ll be able to customize your color options to match your army’s color scheme. Currently, we’re developing Red, Orange, Yellow, Blue and Green LED strings but have the stretch goal to expand those color options. Hey all! We just got confirmation from Misterjustin at Secret Weapon miniatures for cost of the translucent resin bases. True to his word of finding an economical price point, we'll be offering them at $10 for a set of 5 bases - either round lip or flat edge. The only catch, is we have to hit our goal to make them available! You can up your pledge now, or wait to add on, but we have to hit our goal to make sure that we get everything out! Secret Weapon Bases lit with PoweredBases Want to get yours? Share and share alike!
  13. Every Friday night the family ... Grandmother (my mother), my family (me: 44, the fiancee, and my two kids: 22/20 yo), and my Sister's family (her: 42 and possibly her two kids: 19/10) ... get together and play board games (or dice games/card games). Last week after a two-night Talisman event where everyone was duking it out for the Crown at the end ... I decided to take the figures from the game home with me and set to work on them. So first, I dipped into my bucket o' tiles and ensured all of the figures were stabilized. Each of the included bases were warped in some fashion. So super glue and a few minutes resulted in: I left the original bases attached because these miniatures while nicely detailed are no where as sturdy as Bones and are smaller of scale. Hmm. I best get out Garrick of Scale for a comparison shot. Once they were all settled on their new plastic plinths it was time to merge original and new bases. BRING FORTH THE SAND AND BALLAST AND GREEN PUTTY! All of the bases received some sand to cut the distance betwixt base levels. The Ghoul who had a nice textured base received ballast to match the original base. Some will stick with sand, the Sage, and most will get at least some green putty to bring the bases more even. For most of the figures I plan to give their bases the look of their starting places. The Troll and Dwarf will have some larger rocks sticking up for the Crags. Most will get painted with grass mainly. Some few will have "cobbles" or similar treatments for the village or city. Perhaps a keg and a stool for the Tavern. However, whatever their scenery, I must keep in mind that the figures will be in a board game box and not treated any differently then before. Thus begins the journey to the Crown of Command. We'll see where it leads and which of these figures will fall to Death. Speaking of which ... where's the Reaper? *looks about* Damn, he's sitting over at mom's on the game cabinet. Yeah, we have the Reaper expansion. Figures involved: And of course:
  14. I've been considering different and cost effective means to base the 500 or so figures I am getting next month from the Bones Kickstarter. I have a ton of tile samples from an architect that cleared out their old stuff. However the majority aren't square or are smaller than 1" square. I have access to slate from sidewalks breaking apart around the neighborhood. Seriously. Got about 5-10 pounds of the stuff of varying thicknesses. Makes a nice display base for the figures. You can see it on my two posted show off miniatures; Stone Giant Warrior & Thornback Troll. But 500+ figures is a lot of bases. Okay so some don't fit on 1" square bases for use with fantasy games. But I did find a product that gets me a ton of bases for cheap. 5 cents a base cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8T9B8 It's a learning aid. $19.95 for 400 one-inch plastic tiles. The colors don't matter, they'll get painted along with the figure. It's plastic so I can drill into it for pinning, etc. I am sure there are alternatives, but for the price and my Prime free two-day shipping I said, "why not?" Limited supplies are available, but for those of us who've bought in for multiples of the Vampire level it could be your answer to basing all those minis. Assuming you want to. Mine will be here Friday. I'll add one to my Bones Garrick or Barnabas when I get them and post a picture of it with notes about it.
  15. I did a rough tabletop paint job on this guy while I was building bases. I decided to base him up in an equally quick fashion, since I am not a big fan of broccoli bases. So, in the spirit of spreading what little knowledge I possess I will do a build along WIP on some quick and dirty graveyard bases. I will do two bases out of different materials, and I will list all materials and steps so anyone who wants can build along. You don't need all the materials I list, and you can make this work with pretty much anything you have on hand. C&C encouraged. Materials: Square or round base Super glue or Tacky Glue Acrylic Gesso Cork Baked Sculpey Popsicle sticks X-acto/craft knife/scalpel Paint Once all the materials are gathered up it's time to make bases.
  16. I agreed to show a couple of people how I build my not-quite-stunning bases during the con. If anyone else wishes to partake I don't have any problem showing as many people as are interested. I will be bringing my entire basing kit with me. I will try to bring a good amount of cork, and broken Sculpey with me. However, if you wish to do some putty bases (Green Stuff, Miliput, etc) please bring your own, since I have a limited amount with me. Also bring any bases you wish to use, since again I will only be bringing a limited number with me. I will be demonstrating on 30mm round and 1" square bases. I also have a fair few tools that people are welcome to borrow, given that they are all returned. This is not an official Reaper class, though I will be more than happy to accept payment in the form of hugs and shameless flattery. If you are interested your best bet is either to catch me, or better yet coordinate with Cutebutpsycho, since this is all her idea anyway.
  17. I found a tutorial for mud bases. I thinking about make a grass bases for my blood bowl nun team, but the grass is broken with muddy areas. But if the nuns are playing on such a dirty place, they should look more muddy. Does anyone have a tutorial to create clothes and skin with mud on it. Or has example interesting example pictures with a short explanation?
  18. Bake Your Own Basius – Base Stamps 4 Wargames Miniatures is another line of base stamps similar to the ones from Happy Seppuku. Main difference appears to be that the impressions are a bit deeper and the stamp is made of resin. I'm tempted by the Mountain Ranges, Ruined Imperial Highway, and Mountain Ranges, but they are pretty pricey (partly because of shipping from the UK). Ron
  19. So I was working on a mini today and thought a wave would be an awesome base. I thought it was neat if there were base pieces made out of the colored plastic. Blue waves, red fire, green acid etc...
  20. Hello forum folks I have not been painting anything the last half year or so, as my left elbow and lower arm have not been working properly, ligament problems leaving me unable to hold anything small still for any length of time, or at all. But it is getting better, and I have been getting a lot of prepwork done on of alot of the masses and masses of minis that have arrived, fulfilling the last years kickstarters. The Kings of War and Reaper Bones has been delivered and are now complete, and the third and last Dreadball shipment is probably in the mail, leaving me with more minis than space to put them. And several more are on their way…and the Bones are doing a second kickstarter at the moment…uh oh. At any rate, I am trying to get back in to it now, and have chosen the “Reaper Beauty Pageant 2013″ forum competition as a suitable target to actually get something done. I seem to need a deadline these days, or it gets put off. In this competion, one is to enter the Bones mini called “Lysette”, and elven sword toting maiden. Quite intrically detailed, so I might fail utterly as I still cant seem to hold it completely stlll for painting. And there is really small detail on this piece. Giving it a go, here is the first WIP shots of Murkette the Dark elf: You see where this is headed. Black undercoat, mantic base. I like mantic bases better than citadel ones these days. The Bones’ integral bases are quite easy to trim down to fit the hole, fill with a spot of green stuff and away we go! Speaking about bases… I am at something of an impasse about basing the Bones. Traditionally I have based most everything to fit with Warhammer. However…Why on Earth have I been doing that? There are lots more base options available these days. Such as the “lipped” bases (left). I find I really like those bases too, even more than the round beveled of yesteryear. And lovely sculpted bases in resin are readily available. I am not sure the square bases are as nice. I think I like round bases better in general. And these days you get something newfangled called “movement trays”…and many of these can be ordered with precut holes or slots to fit whatever size or shape base I might like to have. So any shape can actually fit Warhammer or whatever. And for games such as Kings of War, the need for individual basing is eliminated altogether, all models in a unit goes on a single base, as the minis themselves are not used as wound counters. This means that an entire unit can be based as a kind of diorama, greatly enhancing the look of the unit as a whole, and speeding up movement in-game. This also lets one play around a bit more: “a 20-man strong unit of skeletons” but… I dont really get to play any more. At all. So why even bother following that paradigm? Or any at all? So, maybe taking a more individual approach, basing each model on whim more than any special uniformity is the right way forward. What do you think about this? Any thoughts are appreciated.
  21. Hello everyone! Just got some of the green stuff and thought I'd share what I'm doing with it. At first I was just going to use it for improving the bases of my minis, but I quickly realized I'll be using it to mod some of them and eventually do full on figures of my own. First up, I made some rocks for this wizard's base: Next, after finding that working with the stuff is so fun, I decided to make a lil' skull: And for fun, here are a couple of digital sculpts I did when I first got ZBrush earlier in this year. An orc head, and a Chinese style dragon that I got frustrated with and didn't finish: Anyway, I'll just keep updating this thread as I sculpt more stuff in the future. Comments and critiques are welcome.
  22. When rebasing Bones should you use a pin or could you just superglue the figure to the base? On my first Bones figure, the Bugbear, I used a pin. Drilling the plastic was easer than drilling metal, but I found it took aa bit more care to ensure the hole was straight and of the desired depth because the bit cut so quickly. It turned out fine, but I was wondering how well the pin will hold it's place in the plastic foot and, if given how little the mini weights, if it is worth the bother of pinning rather than simply super gluing the figure to the base. I will appreciate your thoughts
  23. Some of these minis are done, but most I'm still working on, which is why this is in WIP. These started as plain flat bases except for the little green and grey one in the middle, which is an RAFM mini with a nicely-sculpted but too narrow base which I glued to a penny. The two on the far right are Reaper minis I glued to one-inch fender washers. The rest of them are Hasslefree minis on the slotted plastic bases that came with them, 25mm except for the little girl who is on a 15mm base. The three on the left have asphalt-effect, which I did by stippling with a small round hog's bristle brush in shades of black, white, grey, and brown. It's hard to see in the photo, but the lower left figure, a vampire, doesn't have a shadow where the other two do. The four on the front and right are stippled for grass, with a small flat hog's bristle brush held parallel to the base and subtle shades of green mixed with yellow and brown put on. The three in front center also have rocks painted on, using similar colors to the asphalt but with sable brushes using washes and blending. The two in the back have rocks and flagstones painted on with shadows and in one case lighting effects from fire, painted with sable brushes, washes and blending. All of the bases (except for that RAFM one) are flat as pancakes. A different view of the bases. A view of the grassy bases. A view of the asphalt and stone bases.
  24. I'm generally not a huge fan of fancy basing, but I thought it would be a nice treat to put the minis I paint up as the PCs for my upcoming D&D game on some custom bases. However, no one seems to sell pre-made bases for fewer than six at a go (most places I've found sell packs of ten) and I was hoping to be able to pick a different style of base for each mini, as appropriate. Does anyone offer such a service, either selling individual bases or mix-and-match packs of a given size?
  25. I'm looking to get some 1 inch square bases for my bones figures and noticed that the 12 pack of bases are $4.99 and a single base is 25 cents, so if I buy them separately it comes to $3, I was wondering why its cheaper to buy them separately then in a pack? here are the links to the bases http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bases/sku-down/74056 http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bases/sku-down/74015