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  1. My GM needed a party of NPCs fast for a game of Exalted set in the World of Darkness (think fantasy characters popping up in a modern day world, more or less). There was no time to order anything, but we had the handy new Bones III core and Mythos sets. These are the Bones minis 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and as a free bonus 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke), who was simply a "Vale Swordsman Elf Grunt" in metal (she was the first character picked for the one represented by Kassandra of the Blade, and I painted her up anyway as an extra and useful figure). I painted these really fast -- for me -- in two afternoons, one to prime and paint faces and one to paint the rest of them. It's not quite my one-hour robot speed paint, but for me it was super fast and the results are more tabletop-quality than my usual run. First I washed and primed all the Bones with Reaper's Brown Liner. I did not clean flash up as much as normal owing to the tight deadline. Skin work, using simple mixes of earth pigments plus white: Burnt Umber (for the darker skin tones), Burnt Sienna (for the pinker, lighter skin tones), Red Iron Oxide (for really pink skin) ,and Yellow Ochre plus Titanium White. Hair was laid in with the same palette plus Carbon Black. Rough shading with ruddy Burnt Sienna-Titanium White shadows and greyer Burnt Umber-Titanium White shadows. This character, a former Fae, has dramatic blue-streaked hair. This is a classic mix of Phthalocyanine Blue and enough Titanium White to make it opaque.
  2. Townsfolk of Dreadmere: Mercenaries 03793 by Bob Ridolfi
  3. I speed-painted these over two afternoons to be a party of NPC adventurers for an eclectic mash-up of Exalted and the World of Darkness. They are 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke). WIP thread here.
  4. I tried taking a Zen of Bones approach to this bunch (Thanks Buglips!). These are part of my 4 year olds "Toy Box" minis. I only took lage flash off and pretty much pretended that tne mold lines don't exist. They got a zenithal prime and the 4 year old painted the bodies. I painted faces, clothes and bases. These were treated with Army Painters mid tone quickshade (first time using it). I then played with my static flock generator which worked fine on the mummy bases (which I didn't catch in the photos), but was sad on the Ghast bases. either way they look good enough IRL. Photos are poor as I didn't put much effort in them either. Enjoy! And before the quick shade.
  5. A water weird is a water elemental that exists within / is bound to a specific body of water and that can give the heroes a nasty surprise when going for a wash or a drink. I made the mistake of using blue ink on this, which turned the whole thing too dark, which I tried to correct with drybrushes of lighter shades, but it seems I just made a mess of it. I salvaged it somewhat by dumping ancient citadel turquoise glaze on it and then gloss varnish to make it look wet. The basin was done with my basic green/gray stone combo. It ended up better than I first feared. 77310: Water Weird Reaper Bones translucent blue from the second Bones KS sculpted by Bob Ridolfi Bonesium PVC 30mm base
  6. A little backstory: At PaizoCon, there's a fella named Cosmo who runs a TTRPG survival game, where you have to last at least 20 minutes against...killer clowns. Yes, that's right, you get mobbed from all sides by wave after wave of malevolent, monstorous clowns of all kinds. @Reaperbryan paints at least one clown mini for him every year. And if it wasn't originally a clown, he MAKES it a clown. Last year, he and a few forum members (myself included) painted up a whole nightmarish Ronald McDonald clown crew. It was glorious and terrifying and a whole lot of fun. But this year, Cosmo had a special request: he'd gotten Hecklemeyer and Styx, and asked Bryan if he could paint them up. Being a good management type, he delegated the job to me, since he was already working on turning a giant into a rubber chicken-wielding clown (which came out amazingly). I had originally planned on purple and gold, with perhaps some red or green accents. Instead, purple and teal happened. It's almost as though it was inevitable. (pardon my fingers in the picture; it was the only way my camera would show the correct colors. Since I was at the con, I didn't have access to my normal photo-taking setup) Here's a shot that shows the puppet hanging off of his belt. I gave it a clown nose too, of course. Group picture! Cosmo was a very happy Cosmo when I gave them back. He did, in fact, squee loudly (followed by maniacal giggling). It was extremely gratifying. EDIT: I should clarify that when I say Speed Paint, I mean that I painted it in 3-4 hours, not during an actual speed paint event. Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  7. This is Reaper's 59009: Mad Scientist, sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. I thank Reaper for proffering Victorian Science Ladies in Big Dresses, and I am looking forward to painting her up. I am, as usual, working with Golden matte fluid acrylic paints. This is my standard priming, a thin wash of thinned-down Titanium White allowed to dry for a day then washed further with thinned-down Burnt Umber. I don't know if I've mentioned, but this is a classic Italian Renaissance priming technique. I can't remember the term, but it translates as "veil" of color and is supposed to give richness to subsequent layers of color. In this case it also makes details pop. I clearly missed a few spots with the Burnt Umber. I will be repairing those as I go along. I started with her skin. I like the Foglios' "Girl Genius" comic, so she is a little inspired by them. They have plenty of diversity in their cast, and I thought this figure might look well with darker skin. I have found that Burnt Umber, a slightly cool, rich dark brown, makes a good basis for dark human skin. This is the first layer, a light scumble (like a glaze but using a lighter color over a darker instead of vice versa) of Burnt Umber lightened just a touch with Titanium White. Dark skin, I find, looks well with warm highlights based on Yellow Ochre. I painted her skin quite dark, so I made the highlights a little cooler, less Yellow Ochre and more Titanium White, admixed with Burnt Umber. Here she is with her skin finished and her eyes painted in. I washed some clear Quinacridone Magenta over her lips. Her eyes were pretty enormous to begin with and I made them even larger. I am thinking mauve for her dress. Purple ftw!
  8. I have another installment in my painting up of Reaper's Boneslyvanian Chibis. Here is Bart. A uncharacteristically bright haired zombie. Enjoy. Thanks for any C&C you feel inspired to give.
  9. So last weekend the KruleBear Cub wanted to paint his Bones zombies green (apparently Scoobie Doo dictates Zombie colors). So I took this as an opportunity for some bonding time and to try out some ideas for the Zombicide zombies. I did these using the zen of Bones...i.e. no flash or mold removal. Washed in soap and water, glued to bases for stability, primed, and then set up to base coat the skin. I painted the three on the left and the 4yo painted the two on the right. His skin looked as good or better than mine. The one he painted three different colors....as I learned from him that converted them from bad guys to good guys! I then base coated the clothes, hair, and bases. I slathered on Army Painter Dark Tone Wash (not the poly dip, but their corresponding water based wash). Once dried I rimmed the bases in black and put offwhite on the eyes. One of them I did a light drybrush of the base skin colors. All coated with clear poly followed by DullCote. I am happy with them....except for the flash and mold lines which would have taken a couple hours to clean up. I think I will use this method to start painting my Zombicide zombies to get some color on the board. This was a fast paint for me...probably 2.5 hours total including cleaning a kid and not including drying times.They are sitting on a Hirst Arts castle I have been building. Finally the Cub has been helping me punch out tokens for the five different Zombicide game versions I have and wanted to play zombies and good guys....we compromised to get a zombie game that was more age appropriate to a 4 yo....I introduce you to Candyland Zombicide where the good guys are protecting the various destinations!
  10. Not Reaper minis, but with the upcoming Alien Covenant movie I thought these would be appropriate. Long out of production 25mm Miniatures 20300, Alien Warrior Boxed Set #1. They were sculpted by Bob Ridolfi in the early 90's for Leading Edge Games. I went with three diffrent color just for a change. I added acid saliva in the mouth of one of them and a big wound on another one.
  11. Here are some group pictures of the Bonesylvanians class of 2014. 01532, Esme the Witch 01533, Jack the Pumpkin Head 01534, Patch the Scarecrow 01535, Bart the Zombie 01536, Sandy the Mummy 01537, Gus the Ghost 01538, Lon the Werewolf 01539, Gil aka Tiik the Deep Sea Monster WIP 01540, Morty the Grim Reaper 01541, Drak the Bat 01542, Van the Vampire 01543, Tish the Vampire Click on the pictures to enjoy larger images.
  12. 01543, Tish the Chibi Vampire Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. Tish and Van ready for a sleepless night at the Vampires' Ball.
  13. Rippers Witch Hunter from Reaper's Savage Worlds miniatures line. Oh varnish. The bane of my existance. I just can never seem to get it right. I've got the first step down (two rounds of floor polish) but after that I'm stumped. What I thought was my try and tested method of matt spray varnish suddenly doesn't work. It either leaves considerable spots of gloss and/or frost (the later probably due to the cold weather). And the spray is a nightmare to maintain. Recently I've tried to go back to brush on matt sealer which seems to do the trick (at least servicable). But something worries me that I'm forgetting something, since there should be a reason that I didn't use brush on sealer earlier. I'm hoping it's just sloth. This figure is suffering from my (many) bouts with the sealing process. Anyway, I painted this miniature as a stand in for a PC in a game of Shadows of Esteren I'm GM:ing. I cut the sword and replaced it with a torch from a Bones townsfolk miniature. I had such high hopes with the mini before hand. I was going to go for a darker tone and try OSL. Reality hit and it wasn't pleasant. So I ditched everything and went plain. Got an OK result.
  14. 01542, Van the Chibi Vampire Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
  15. Speed paint tonight... Grabbed these two candelabra and knocked them out real quick... I think under an hour all told. Which is pretty darn quick for me. The metal was based with a mixture of shadowed stone and pure black, then I added in a drop of Vallejo metal medium and used that to drybrush over. It works better in person than in pictures. The candles were based in blond hair with some highlights in linen white. The flames were painted in linen white, then most of that was covered with pale saffron, then a little bit of lava orange. If I wanted to be fancy I'd try some OSL but I'm lazy.
  16. 01535, Bart the Chibi Zombie, Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Rodilfi.
  17. 01534, Patch the Chibi Scarecrow, Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
  18. 01533, Jack the Chibi Pumpkin Head, Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
  19. 01536, Sandy the Chibi Mummy sculpted by Bob Ridolfi. It's Special Edition Bonesylvanian Figure. Comments and critics are very welcome.
  20. One of my Bones minis. The succubus that was released in Bones II (I think). She is painted up as the redeemed succubus of my world who became the Goddess of Vengeance (She has a bit of a temper and holds grudges). So her is Fiona... Front view only as her backside refuses to photograph properly. Still working on improving my camera skills for this
  21. On the Reaper forum's bi-monthly resolutionary painting challenge the first bonus challenge of the year is to fingerpaint a miniature. ...as in use your fingers to paint it, no brushes or other implements, and you need to do this yourself, not get any help from others, including small-fingered children. Priming and sealing excepted. And it must be a creature, no scenery to make it easier. I decided to make a go at the bonus challenges this year. How I did this is hiden behind the But the results ended up not too shabby: and since the backdrop it a wee bit too samey to show up the colours properly: this is taken with a pink piece of paper as backdrop.IRL it is a bit more blueish. These pictures show better that it does in fact have some of the insubstantial not-quite-there effect I was hoping for, with the translucency and blotchy colour variations all over. But one does need a bright light to see them. 77368: Shadow Demon Reaper Bones KS2 Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi Translucent purple Bonesium 40mm base
  22. Here's a Special Edition Figure I finished Yesterday. She was fun and fairly easy to paint thanks to the big details. It's a great model to practice on eyes painting. So, here's 01532, Esme the Chibi Witch sculpted by Bob Ridolfi and totally inspired by Rhonda Bender's choice of color. Her cloak is screaming for a freehand but I'm lacking inspiration. Anyone got an idea?
  23. I try to comfom to the posting title and tags rules as laid down by the high and mighty,..please let me know if anything need to be done differently. --- So, 2017 has arrived.Time to mess about with spirits. The first series of translucent Bones were made either in orange or in a bright greenish tinge, and it seems I only ever got round to painting one or two of the green ones. We can't have that, can we? As with all the translucents, the key is to prime the model with matte varnish. I use Army Painter Anti-Shine spray for this. After that I use mainly inks as they also are translucent. I have learned the hard way that normal paints are opaque and should be kept to a minimum if I want to keep the minis even slightly translucent. For this piece I started with a liberal coating of Vallejo Green Ink, taking care to draw off exessive pooling of ink with a damp brush. After that I used some old red lidded hexpot Citadel Turquoise Glaze on the bottom half. I detailed the mini with a very light dusting of normal light bone paint on it's visible skeletal hand, and a slightly heavier drybrushing of ScaleColour Cobalt Alchemy light blue metallic on the sword and crossguard, as if it is half-materialized. I also painted the inside of the hood's cowl with ScaleColor Bloodfest Crimson (a very dark red/brown). What cannot be seen in the pictures are the pinpoint bright yellow/green eyes in the depths of the cowl. The gravestone with skulls was done in typical greys and bone-colour with a simple strong tone quickshade for effect. Now all it needs is some matte varnish to take the edge off the shinyness of the inks, but that will have to wait until springtime. 77097 Grave Wraith Reaper Bones KS1 Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi Green translucent Bonesium PVC 40m base
  24. Once upon a time there was the first Bones Kickstarter, and one of the figures, Ellen Stone, came out of the mold somewhat lacking in the nose department, and people said, "What can you do with a noseless cowgirl?" and someone (It may even have been me) said, "Paint her up as an alien." Somewhat later I was musing over the Githyanki (who seem to keep cropping up in games I'm involved in) while sorting through my Bones minis looking for inspiration (as you do). In my bag of cowboys (Yes, I sort my Bones minis by theme), I ran across the old Ellen Stone figure, as well as a man's figure which, I realized upon close inspection, seemed to have a skull-like face, almost zombie-like, certainly lacking a nose. And something clicked and I thought "Oooh, yuss." Now, I don't absolutely know for certain that I ever will have a use for a couple of Githyanki desperadoes, and yet, here they are. First is the Bones Ellen Stone, SKU 80003. WIP thread here.
  25. So, I started these a while ago as a kind of a giggle. This is kind of a catch-up thread, as I am pretty far along with them. I had been feeling the need for more Githyanki / Githzerai figures. Anyhow, I had the abortive Ellen Stone, Cowgirl figure (link is to the metal version) from the first Bones Kickstarter, the one that never made it to retail because she hasn't got a nose. Someone (it may have been me, if anyone feels like digging through the old posts) suggested painting the bodged Bones version up as an alien. Then I noticed this guy from, I think, Bones II, 91001: Stone from the "Savage Worlds" line, who looks like a sort of zombie-ish revenant cowboy with a gaunt build and a skull-like, noseless face. And it all clicked together. My normal prep for Bones figures these days is mild flash removal and a wash of dilute Reaper Brown Liner. I don't have any pix of the figures at that early stage, but here they are with a thin layer of pale banana yellow on their skin (the male figure appears to have gloves, but I'm going with bare hands anyway to emphasize his alienness). I mixed it from my favorite Golden matte fluid acrylics in Yellow Oxide and Titanium White. The point of this pale layer is to give an undertone to the skin so that one is not dealing with a single flat color. After the initial layer I rinsed over the skin with a very fine wash of a more orange tone mixed from Hansa Yellow Opaque (a very bright lemon yellow) and Golden heavy body Pyrrole Orange. Then I started building up the shapes and contours of the skin with various subtle golden browns, mostly mixed from Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Oxide, and Titanium White, and add more bright yellows based on Hansa Yellow Opaque. This is where you can start to see the shapes of their faces and they start looking a little less awful.