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Found 14 results

  1. Since I now have all the colours I need for this challenge, and Stormwing was suitable prepped, I didn't really have any excuse any more. My dice rolls, as mentioned earlier was: Heather Blue, Violet Red, Blush Pink. And since I have no idea of how to make those colours work together, I've decided that I might just as well go whole hog and do a 3Star challenge. So no shades or highlight colours. Just Pure White and Pure Black to help out with. I'm also adding Grey Liner, as a Primer only. Stormwing and base has been Lined. Not all that even, but then again, it shouldn't be visible later since it's there as a Primer only. The mess in my pallette was me trying to find a way to blend the colours. Nope, didn't really find anything, so no blending. It may look as if there's some blue on Stormwing, but that's just the camera being fooled by the lighting. (Vilet Red is to the left of 'six o clock' and Blue is to the right. Blush Pink is in the center.)
  2. 50327 Victorian Ladies

    So, My sister has a 'Best Friend Forever', and that friendship has lasted... long enough that one of them has become a grandmother... And my sister had her Birthday recently, and I figured to give her something slightly special... The first... Ice Blue and Moss Green dress. The second: Moss Green and Ice Blue dress... Side by side... And seen from the back: The bases was made as a single base using a Happy Seppuku stamp, cut to size, then split down the middles with a knife. The base material was some cheap air-drying stuff I found at 'Sisters Greene'. PAintjob is Concrete and Rock Grays, and a dark gray wash in the cracks, then a matte varnish all over, with some gloss varninsh added to the cracks afterwards. I probably should have made it possible to remove a mini with it's 'half base' from the plastic base so that it could be placed next to the other, but the base material is just so brittle that I didn't think it would survive very long. The plastic 'stepped' bases comes with plastic domes, to protect the minis from dust. Sorry about the poor lighting. And the focus could have been better, too, but I was in a bit of a hurry to get them finished, photographed and given away.
  3. 14390 Anubis Guard

    This one puzzled me for quite a while, then annoyed me for even longer. Gray fur almost worked, then not at all. I tried steel colours, then bronze, and even to make the sword look like some sort of black glassy rock... It just screamed NO at me. So I gave it another bath in the Pit of Regret, washed it off and gave it a coat of gray primer, then sat down and studied it.... Yeah, it had to be done like this. I still have a bit of a problem with getting good pictures, but... The colours is MSP Shadowed Stone as base and MSP Weathered stone drybrushed on top. The Gold is Dwarven Gold,and the blue on the headdress is Oceanic Blue, with more Weathered Stone drybrushed over to 'age' it a bit. The eyes and the jewels in the swordhilt is Tamiya Clear Red. It was given a coat of matte varnish, but it's still a bit too shiny, I think. I think it should fit well at the entrance of a tomb or something.
  4. The Grim Squeaker gets it...

    Okay... I have a couple of this adorable mini and figured I'd try to do it the way the artist envisioned it, instead of how it had to be cast... As it's only a minor conversion, and I'm not going to go into tedious detail, I didn't bother to make a thread in the conversion section. So, first off, chop it into pieces! Then chop it into more pieces, and drill holes through them! (Look closely and you can see a beading wire run through the parts) The LED I'm going to use, shown together with a part I'm not going to use, for size comparison. It's a bit bigger than the ones I've messed with before, but that is mostly because it's an RGB LED. (Red, Green, Blue.) Which also explains the 4 thin wires. Here the LED is in place in the scythe handle and placed in a mould of generic 'Blue Stuff'. (The mould was made before I started cutting. I just didn't take pictures of that. Check GreenStuff World's YT videos for how-to) Yes, the mould is two part... Expect to spend an evening if you intend to do the same. Also, for [insert deity]'s sake, pick a single-colour LED as fitting an RGB LED is a pain in the... (I used te RGB LED because I wanted Blue light, and I didn't have any Blue LEDs in my toybox) Finally! Time to start painting... Some Vallejo Gray primer on hands and face, Vallejo 70.614 'IDF Israeli Sand' primer on the handle. The blade(made of clear resin, 'jewelry resin') isn't primed yet... Now for the Black primer... Note that I've been careful to use only a very thin layer on the edge part of the blade. Priming done, it's time to begin slapping on paint... And the first was 09437 Dragon Black, That went on undiluted using a Rosemary&Co #0 filbert. Then I mixed up a concoction I call 'Stygian night', (one drop Dragon Black, 2 drops 09423 Styx Purple) and used as the first highlight. Second highlight is Styx Purple. And finally a dab of 09686 Gothic Crimson for good measure. I will probably need to go over some areas with Dragon Black again, and I also need to think a bit about the tears on the edge of the robe. The blade will get a thin metallic coat, and the handle will get the Vallejo Old Wood weathering.
  5. This is likely to become a very long and slow thread since I only have the main Nativity Set and one Wise man yet... Anyway, onto the wood 'stable'... Since I just got the Vallejo Old & New wood effect paint set, I decided to use that. (Actually, I got the set for this mini) First I primed it with IDF Israeli Sand Primer: Then I coated with 71.131 Concrete. The star is based with Reaper's Palomino Gold, of course. Then Sand Grey happened... A wash of Model Wash 76.517 Dark Grey, highlights of RAL1001 Elfenbein 71.075, and some Reaper Bones Dragon Gold on the star. I think it's mostly ready now, just need a bit of cleanup here and there, some varnish, and a base... Yeah, I gotta think about that... (It needs to be able to hold all the Nativity minis after all) Also, because of the instructions, I think that paint set is worth the price, and with a bit more experience with it I should be able to produce some really nice results. (I used a crappy #1 synthetic for everything but the star, where I used a crappy #0. None of the woodwork requires a good brush, really.)
  6. So, after the paintjob Frulla Krung got earlier, mentioned in this thread: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/67006-gadgetman-is-messing-about-with-paints/?p=1428362 I decided to re-do the mess and gave her a relaxing bath in the Pit of Regret... A few days later she was primed in Vallejo White Primer, and yesterday, I did another attempt... Skin colour is Warrior Flesh, and only a single layer. The big difference is that I this time used a flat 'drybrushing' brush instead of the usual pointed sable. (Kappel 'The Drybrusher', which I find a bit too soft for drybrushing, really) Yeah, it made a big difference... I've ordered a couple of filberts and stuff to experiment with. Her hair is Auburn Shadow, and yeah, it was a pain to get it into every nook and cranny. AAAAAAARGH! (There's a few spots still that I found today... ) That is how I left her yesterday evening... Here I have drybrushed in Carrottop Red. Yeah, of course the final had to be Highlight Orange. That axe was annoying me... So I filled the recessed area with Runic Purple. It should have been Breast Cancer Awareness Pink, but as I don't have that... yet... And here I have added a bit of Emerald Green to the pattern on the axe. That is as far as I got before the 'System Error: Tea not found' happened. I need to get started on her eyes soon. Then I need to decide on highlight/shade for her skin. Her clothes, what little there is, also need a bit of colour. Not much, but a little bit. (The jewel on her necklace and her bracelet will be green, though) I would like to completely fill the recesses on the axeblade(cover the purple and green) with a clear of some sort. Make it look glassy, really. It it possible to do that with a varnish, or should I try something else? EDIT: Fixed tags.
  7. Happy Birfthday Gadgetman!

    :bday: Gratulerer Med Dagen :bday: I hope someone sings you the Birthday Song !
  8. So, in my quest to elf up a series of skeletal warriors, it came the time to do a bit of conversion... Just your normal Skeletal warrior, with a nice coating of Brown Liner. And now it looks as if he had an encounter with a short-order chef... Take care to cut at joints so that the cuts will be less likely to cause issues when gljuing it back together. Drill holes through his body, the leg and all the way down to the base. I used a 0.8mm pit for that job. I also drilled up the neck and into the skull with the same bit. Then I drilled in through the eyesockets with a 0.5mm bit. These holes are drilled to intersect the larger hole from the neck up. The neck-hole should end up in eyeheight... When drilling with the 0.8mm, keep rotating it even when you pull it out as you NEED to clear the holes properly. And that little speck next to the 0.8mm drill bit is a LED. It's actually a 0402 SMT LED mounted on a very, very small bit of PCB and have leads attached. All the really hard work is done in other words. (0402 = 0.4 x 0.2mm surface size. While there are people who can hand-solder that, it takes ages of practice and very good eqipment, so buy the ready-made stuff from eBay) Inserting the LED into the skull can be a bit of a pain. Consider using a 1mm drill bit if you have steadier hands than me. Make certain it's facin the right way... And... Thread the wires through the bones down to the base. Tested that it works, and have glued it together and given it a bit of paint. What isn't readily visible is that the skull was basecoated with MSP Bones Dragon Black. You may need more than one coat of that... The elctronics. For battery I'm using a CR1620 because I have lots of them. (CR1620 = 16mm diameter, 2mm thick) You may want to use CR1220, CR 2032 (requires a larger and thicker base.) the BR425 (4.2mm diameter cylinder. Often used in light-up fishing lures) or in the kase of Kaladrax, a pair of AAs... A RED LED will explode if you connect it directly to the battery, so we need a resistor to limit the current. (The thing with the paint stripes) Maths... RED LEDs want 2 - 2.4V, and typically 5 - 25mA to light up. (current tolerances varies, so check the details whne uying them) So, we need to lose 0.6 - 1V and drop the current to no more than 25mA. 1V/0.025A = 40ohm. but testing that gives a very bright light, so use that as a minimum size. (Resistors are available in assortement packs) At 5mA, we get a value of 200ohms. This all assumes that the battery is 3V. But these button cells may be a bit over 3V when 'at rest' and drawing 5mA is pretty much that. So don't be surprised if you need a 460ohm or even a 1KOhm resistor in your setup. The resistor is soldered to one lead and glued to the inside of a base. The other end is going to become a battery pad. The glass tube soldered to the other lead is what's known as a Reed Relay. (A relay is an electromagnetic switch. You energise a coil, and it throws and holds a switch. Release the current and it releases it again. The Reed relay is just a pair of metal plates in a tube. When you introduce an outside magnetic field the will get pulled together. Nice for sensors and stuff) Glue that also down, and make certain the free pin is bent so that it lays across the resistor 'battery pad'. And slide the battery in between the leads... When you hold a magnet near the base you get this: If it doesn't work, just turn the battery the other way to reverse the polarity. Yes, the LED requires a specific polarity, but no, you won't damage it by connecting it the wrong way. That, and the fact that you can never be certain which way the wires are soldered, is the reason why I haven't listed which wire to connect what to. You don't need to use a Reed relay, either. A miniature switch is good, also. Or you can just solder a stiff wire to the other lead to make the second part of the holder, and just insert the battery when you want it to light up. It is possible to do this kind of conversion on white metal, also, but the hole holding the LED must be somewhat larger since the material isn't flexible, and yeah, the LED must be encapsulated in something non-conductive. (Most epoxy glues will work for that) Also, drilling so long holes in metal is a real elf in the ...
  9. 02955: Krokuta, Gnoll Cleric

    If she's a cleric, I'd really hate to meet one of their high priestess... I've posted a few pics of her before, in my 'Gadgetman! is messing with paints' thread, and even in the SirForscale competition thread, but now that she's finished, she wanted her own thread. (I've been working on her for a couple of weeks now. Speed painter? who, me? ) Can I remember which colours I used? Fur is AP Monster Brown, with the mane and snout getting a hit of MSP Dragon Black. Leatherwork is MSP Bones 09428 Saddle Brown. I kind of like the red tint of this. Her weapon is MSP Honed Steel and Blackened Steel, with a bit of Adamantium Black smeared liberally here and there on the ball. The Armor is AP Weapons Bronze, with the spikes more Blackened Steel. The belly portion I think is more Honed Steel. Her cloth is MSP Bones Heraldic Red. The Base got hit with Desert Sand, some Moss green and Lichen Green. The wash used on her armor and on the base is Coat D'Arms Superwash Dark Brown. The whatever it is hanging on her hip is hanging by something painted in carrottop Red, with Orange Highlight. The roll on her back? It was basecoated with Dragon Black... the rest is lost in a fog... A couple of jewels were made with Tamiya Clear Red.
  10. Gnoll Warrior

    Okay... So I took time out from messing up Sir Garrick, browsing comics and ebay, and finished up this one. Say hello to Ral the Indominable! Destroyer of Adventurers, Defiler of virgins... And in about 30 seconds, he'll be Ral the Flat when his sister catches him messing with her brand new armor, and punds him into the dirt... Now, for the nitty gritty. I started with Brown liner, of course. The base is 09432 Desert Sand His fur is 29854 Arctic Grey, mostly covered with 09142 Stained Ivory, and a few splashes of AP Monster Brown. Muzzle and tailtip is 09437 Dragon Black. The Shield is 09049 Ancient Bronze, with the 'blades' in 09060 Polished Bone, with the wood panels being 09162 Driftwood Brown. His teeth are 09144 Creamy Ivory, and the gums are 09403 Monster Maw. The mace is 09205 Blackened Steel, with a bit of 09134 Clotted Red on the spikes... His kilt is 09428 Saddle Brown, with a bit of Arctic Grey dry-brushed on for wear. The belts and straps are 09429 Rich Leather. I can't remember which colour I used on the mail, or his eyes. (I know it wasn't a reaper Red on his eyes, though) Besides the shoddy job I did on the flash and mold lines, I'm satisfied with how he came out.
  11. Gadgetman! does Russia!

    Well, if not the whole of Russia, I at least intend to paint all the Tehnolog minis and models I have... First out is a Wolf, from what I understand is called 'Beastbots'... (It should have been a Bear, but it had been brush-primed, and well... that doesn't work on these, it seems. Comrade Wolf, though, had been airbrushed, and that seems to have stuck a bit better. Comrade Bear is now taking a bath... ) His fur was done with MSP Bones 09426 Charred Brown. Then I dry-brushed on a bit of 09028 Muddy Brown. Not too unhappy with the result. ;-) His armor... That red is MSP Bones 09401 Dragon Red. It seems this colour can be a bit tricky to get to coat evenly. It seems it's pretty close to Brown, really. Huh? What's this one doing here? Oh, yeah, he got a bit of Palomino Gold on the areas that will be Gold when I paint him up later. Did that while waiting for the Red to dry properly. Codpiece of Power! Dark parts is 09126 Gunmetal Blue. And the 'light up' in the cracks is MSP Bones 09416 Spectral Glow. I may have added a bit of that to his back, too... Next is to find his arms and prime them... The slightly uneven coating of Dragon Red actually looks pretty good, so I think I won't try to improve it.
  12. So, I had this Golem that I was painting up in the 'messing about' thread of mine... And I messed about... and dropped it! Straight into my palette... And then it bounced off and landed on the floor... carpeted floor... So, today I gave it the heave ho, and soaked it in nail-polish remover and started over. First I used liner. Brown on the skirt/kilt/whatever, then grey on the rest. About a 6drop liner/1 drop water mix on both. Frankly, it doesn't look half bad... Give it red eyes and a dip in varnish, and call it 'Tabletop quality'... As if I could ever do something that sensible... The skirt got a treatment of MSP 9001 Red Brick, the body got AP Wolf Grey, and the belt and bracelets got a rather uneven coat of AP Lava Orange. Some MSP Pearl White got added for eyes and Belt buckle. Belt and bracelets got some MSP Tarnished Brass. More Tarnished Brass got added, I cleaned up edges and slip ups with more Red Brick and Wolf Grey. And eyes and belt buckle got a bit of Tamiya Clear Orange. (That stuff STINKS!) The second layer of Tarnished Brass was thinned with Vallejo Thinner Medium. And yeah, I think I will stay away from thinning metallics with water from now on. The Thinner made for a much more even coating. The plan now is to dry-brush on some MSP Concrete Grey, possibly add some verdigris to the brass, varnish(mostly with matte varnish) and figuring out how the base should look. The main reason it's photographed from the front is that less mold lines are visible, then. This is mostly a painting exercise and to test out stuff. Also, this is a Golem that will look as if he was made of concrete. The mold lines may be intentional... Or that's what I would claim...
  13. Oathsworn Fox Assassin

    Oathsworn's beautiful and very deadly Fox Assassin. This mini is a bit out of my league for now... not that THAT is going to stop me from making a mess... There are several mold lines that I haven't touched, and really don't want to either, as they cross fur and the feathers in her hat, and that's stuff that's leagues out of my skill level to handle. Anyway, here's the first picture. Primer is Vallejo Grey Primer, except the hat that was primed with Vallejo Black. The dress is currently Tropical Blue, no highlights or shading has appeared, only poor lighting and a slightly uneven coating. The undercoat, though... is a mix of AP Lava Orange and Reaper Pearl White. The frills and lace on the dress, and possibly the garter also, will be painted in a white of some sort. What worries me a bit is the narrow gap between her leg and the dress. That is going to a pain in the elf to get done without many, many touch-ups... I should probably tackle her face and eyes next.
  14. (Formerly the Vigilant Warjack thread) A couple of weeks ago, I bought this Warmachine The Protectorate of Menoth - Vigilant (Warjack) in the hope that 'a mech should be an easy paintjob, right?' Lets just skip the mouldlines going across small details and the fact that the parts of the mould must have been misaligned, and even that they must be employing monkeys to break the parts off of the supporting frame.... So, I'm now at a point where I'm satisfied with cleaning up the details/given up fixing the mess... First I primed the parts with Vallejo Grey Primer. The suggested paintjob is 'mostly white with lots of shiny gold', which is really useful on the battlefield... So scratch that... I started with the mechs signature feature; the shields. The outer frame is MSP 09053 Honed Steel. The subframe in the middle was painted with Vallejo GunMetal Grey. The fancy symbols in the middle was done with RangerInk's Pearlescent Baby Blue... This colour is very transparent, so I'm not all that hasppy with how that ended up. The next time I try this I may use a light blue first. The slots is AP Matt Black. The Green is AP Goblin Green, and the spikes are AP Weapon Bronze. I really should have used some sort of brass, but I don't have any of those yet. The Green could also have been a darker colour. The back of the shields is MSP 09270 Shadow Green.(Not shown) Some sort of frontal armor... Same Steel, GunMetal and Goblin Green. But on this one I used AP Electric Blue on the symbol. (I see that I still need to add a bit of green in the bottom of the symbol) Kind of boring piece, really. I think this is part of the engine. Same Green as before. The big, round cap and the slotted panels got hit with the same GunMetal Grey as before, and the others got MSP 09205 Blackened Steel. Yes, there's a difference, but the camera was unwilling to capture it. (BS is slightly lighter than GM) Then I added AP Dragon Red in the slots, and topped it with adding AP Lava Orange in a few of them for that extra intensity. There's a couple of HUGE screws that still needs to be painted. Frankly, I'm not certain what colour to use, or if I should do the decent thing and fill in over them with Green Stuff or something. I mean, imagine how large those screws would be in 'full scale'? No one is stupid enough to make them that big! I'm also not too happy with the Goblin Green, yet. It can be my technique, the brush, or something about the paint, but I can't seem to get it even. Maybe another, thin, coat? We'll see. EDIT: Renamed it because why not...