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Found 34 results

  1. When I got my Bones III Obsidian Crypt I had a little idea. https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/crypt/latest/77637 I put Kaladrax ( now Discontinued) on it. She made it her throne! I also included some pieces of the Bones III Graveyard Set, and a few other pieces I had laying around. One statue is broken because Kaladrax swung her tail when she landed. I made some roses with the basing stuff @knarthex had send me a while ago. Also my first real attempt at marble. I made red marble and white/yellow marble for the Crypt. WIP here if interested. http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/75896-kaladrax-on-mausoleum-by-glitterwolf/& So without further ado here is Kaladrax on her Mausoleum! Hope you like it. Feel free to like, comment and praise. Any complaints...talk to the Dragon!
  2. I was happily scrounging through my mountain of unpainted minis when I started to combine some stuff. Anyway. THIS is going to happen now. It will take time so be patient ( I know you're not, but I needed to say it!) I will need a big piece of MDF, and then start thinking about adding the rest of most of the Graveyard set and other stuff to this. Feel free to steal or be inspired. I have tried this with Nethymaul but she needs more conversion to fit on the roof , mainly her tail.. And come on! Kaladrax has the right imposing look for this.
  3. 77192 Kaladrax

    Well I have finally gone and done it! I managed to build up my courage and paint Kaladrax! This was a very long session of multiple colors to make the bones just so (I didn't want white with just some quick wash). There is at least four different colors on the bones starting with Vampire Shadow then a black wash followed by Ghoul Skin and the dry brushes of Bathalian Chitin and Graveyard bone followed by some light touches of pure white on the bone edges. No this was not done with a size 0 brush or in seven days... those forumites are seriously NUTS! Anyways here are the pics comments and critiques are appreciated.
  4. A couple of multibases for Kings of War (one horde and one troop), including a more practical use for big K (he's just too big for wargaming with). Lots of shots. I had originally only intended to paint up the horde, but found I was running out of room on the base for the original number of minis I wanted to paint, so I added a few more and made the troop to go with it. Thanks for looking!
  5. As the title says, two of my dear friends chipped in to buy Kaladrax for me for my birthday this year, and in preparation for the Bones 3 KS delivery, I'm trying to get my painting game sorted out again. Interestingly, his body and limbs and tail were all nice and solid, but his head and tail tip were incredibly rubbery and soft, and quite shiny. Annoyingly, both have also reacted to the spray I used (Army Painter) to prime, whereas the rest of him did not. They're just sort of dimly sticky and tend to pick up fluff like crazy. However, I'm hoping that as they get properly covered in acrylic, that'll stop being an issue. But yar... I'm not doing the challenge, because I'm bad enough at finishing minis already, without adding craziness to the mix =P so this is my chill Kally paint log. Gonna be painting him up as an alternate sort of greater beastie of Khorne, as I've decided that avatars of chaos are fun. I started out spraying him red, after of course washing him and tweaking a few bits. I'd taken him up to Drifter's to show him off and get a bit of help with him. Then a huge brush and some GW Screaming Skull happened. Then some Rhinox Hide got smeared on his horns and stuff, started adding a wee bit of depth to him. Then I transported him all the way home again, wrapped in a towel to keep him nice and cushioned, in my handbag, across the country. Been home a few days, but work happened, so more paint only just happened, and most of that paint has been Agrax Earthshade, though he's also got some Khorne Red going on in his face. His horns got hit with Screaming Skull again too. Nice leg shot for ya here. It's worth noting he's not attached to his base, he's just sitting on it so he doesn't warp himself. And this evening I boiled his wings and made them a much nicer shape, coz they were mighty strange before. So now they're resting on a towel, in my kitchen, and I've got a cheeseboard ordered to use as his base, coz this guy is so crazily huge, haha. No small brushes used yet - all big chunky ones out of a cheap painter's set from Ryman's and a massive one I picked up there for a couple of quid too. So um, yes, wish me luck? ^^;
  6. That's right, an unknown with maybe 3 painted minis to his name is going to attempt the blasphemy of following in the footsteps of buglips*the*goblin and OneBoot! As a refresher, here's a link to the original challenge: http://forum.reaperm...ps-is-crazy-wip I will be following the same rules buglips followed in his challenge (plus some Christmas bagpipes the whole way because how is that not distracting?): 1) Only using a standard Size 0 brush since that was all he had. 2) I will work on Kaladrax for 168 consecutive hours (7 days) 3) The only prep time I've done is to wash and boil Kally 4) This post's timestamp marks my beginning and the time I should hit next week for my ending All paints will be from the Reaper Kickstarter collections as that's all I have! Hopefully I won't crash and burn or disappoint! Should be entertaining for you though watching me squirm and realize that badness I've signed up for. Should have finished putting sealer on my shoji screens instead this week... Here goes a week nothing!
  7. This figure was done as part of the Reaper Forums 7-Day Goblin Challenge. The rules were simple 7 Days and no brush larger than a 0. All prep included in the 7 days. I got it done in 14 hours flat within 5 days. I painted the "statue" face to be a real face, I envision it as a trapped Titan. Today is day 6 and here are the final pics! VOTE FOR HIS FATE IN THE POLL ABOVE!!
  8. Okay! I now have the paints I will require, as well as the superglue and the brushes!! On Tuesday morning I will be starting my own Kaladrax Reborn challenge! The rules I shall be following are the standard. 1: No brushes will be used that are larger than a standard size 0. Also no airbrushing or finger painting is permitted!! 2: I will have seven days from my posted start time to finish the work. This will be established with a photo showing date and time on my computer screen. 3: All parts of the miniature will be fully painted. Again, all paint will be applied using a brush no larger than a size 0. 4: No prep work will be done to the miniature before the start time beyond washing, dry-fitting, and possibly boiling to correct warpage. 5: All items that come in the retail box must be painted. In this case it is all of Kaladrax and his base. I think that is the full rules for a Kaladrax challenge! My starting pic will also have images of the brushes I will use. Oh, one last thing.. My Kaladrax will NOT be painted as a Dracolich/Ravener.. I plan on making him a Wyrmwraith, as I have not seen anyone do him as one yet. :) Ok, pre-game chatter will be more than welcome!!
  9. Okay, so now that multiple people are doing 7-day challenges, here's the present iteration of rules and guidelines. Please note that these challenges are fan-run and not officially endorsed by or affiliated with Reaper Miniatures. Reaper may, at their sole discretion, offer a prize when such challenges overlap with contests, but for the most part these are just for kicks and maybe some forum fame. The Basics: 1. You may use no brushes larger than Size 0. As Size 0 can vary by company and brand, the average bristle dimensions are 10mm long by 1mm wide. When selecting brushes, try to be as close to this guideline as possible. 2. You have 7 full days to complete from your posted start time (including a picture with a time stamp from a phone or computer screen is helpful to establish this) to complete the model. 3. All visible areas must be painted, and all paint must be applied with a regulation brush. 4. No drilling, filing, mold line removal or other prepwork is permitted before start time. The only preparation allowed is to dry fit your pieces to make sure the model is complete, and do any boiling and reshaping necessary to correct warpage and return the model to "factory spec". You may also clean the pieces with soap and water. 5. All pieces as included in the box set at retail must be painted. This includes, for example, the 5 adventurer figures included with Dragons Don't Share 2. (Note that this means you cannot remove any parts) 6. You must declare in your thread title that you are doing a 7-day challenge (ex: Kaladrax in 7 Days; Khanjira in 7 Days). This way your thread gets noticed as a challenge so I can watch the fun and make arrangements for the prize if you succeed. 7. Eligible models for the challenge are: Khanjira, Kaladrax Reborn, Dragons Don't Share 2, and (when available) Ma'aldrakkar. FAQ: What about inks and pigments? - Inks, washes, and pigments are treated as paint. So long as you apply them with a size 0, it's fine. Note that previously inks were not allowed, but it was easier to treat them all as paint than to codify a dozen special cases. What if I want to add custom terrain or other models as a diorama? - The challenge only covers the painting of the retail set model. In general, this is plenty of work as is. There is no prohibition against doing extra work during the 7 days, but if you can leave it until after you complete the challenge it would be best so as to ensure you finish in time. This is my strong recommendation, as any leftover time during painting can be used to help polish your paint job after completing the basic requirements. In a competition, when such is running, terrain and mods are neither penalized nor worth extra points, so serve as wasted time and are best left out until after. (Note: greenstuffing gaps counts as terrain for this purpose, you don't get any extra points for gap-filling. The challenge only covers the model as stock and the painting of it) Is it really that grueling? - Yes. The challenge is designed so that you will never have enough time to do all that you want to do and must make compromises. It is also unusually taxing physically and mentally. It is important to pace yourself and it is easy to set out too ambitiously. This is also why extraneous work is best left until afterward. It's a lot to do on a deadline and will almost certainly mess with your head a little. Do I get a prize for doing this crazy thing? - Yes. All who successfully complete the challenge will get a Not-Trophy from me. Not-Trophies may be subject to change based on availability but presently consist of a Certificate of Survival from the International Goblinhood of Painters, and a small faux-bronzed figure. There will also be a small digital title you may add to your signature to show off your feat to everyone (collect them all!) Do I have to use Reaper Liner Colours as a Basecoat? - No. Many people do in order to help mitigate wear and tear from handling because it works very well on Bones material. Unless you are sure of using a very robust paint, it's probably not a bad idea. But it is not required, only recommended. What if I find out I have missing or damaged pieces partway through? - Dry-fitting of parts is highly recommended before starting to check for errors or warping, but in the event you discover an issue while already underway you can contact Reaper for a replacement and then continue the challenge with all the bits you have. This will count as a completion. If you have duplicate parts, such as two front legs instead of a left and right, you must paint both duplicate parts (the duplicate thus standing in for the proper piece as a stunt double). This also applies to damaged parts. This prevents the need to stop the challenge to wait on a replacement. When said replacement arrives, you may complete and assemble the model for show-off purposes. This sort of scenario should be quite rare. Can I tape three 0 brushes together, or use one size 0 in each hand? - You may not modify your size 0 in any way unless said modification is subtractive. i.e. - you can cut the bristles and flatten the ferrule to make a more flat brush out of your regulation size 0. You cannot make any modification that is additive (taping multiple brushes together). You can, however, use one brush in each hand. This is not likely to work very well, however, and will probably waste time rather than save it. Can I use super glue accelerant if it is a spray? - Yes, but only if you do not otherwise use it to alter the paintable surfaces. You may only use it during assembly for its designed purpose. When assembling the model, the participant can use any sort of adhesive desired - or even none at all if it can hold together without it. This is to allow those who wish to do extra work to do so after entering their challenge, so that the model may be easily disassembled at that time. Can I modify the figures, remove parts, or give them new bases? - No, all parts included in the kit as stock must be painted. It's best to just paint it as is and do any modifications after the challenge. Done carefully, this should be achievable without major damage to painted pieces. I messed up on my paintjob and want to remove some paint. Can I? - Yes, but only if you intend to reapply paint over that area. You could not, for example, paint an area and then wipe it off with a cloth to remove paint and then use this as quick shading - the cloth would count as an outside and invalid tool used to alter the finish.
  10. Yep, it is time. The players are getting awfully close to the point in my game where Kaly will be necessary. Minor spoilers for Paizo's Wrath of the Righteous adventure path: So general color scheme for an undead silver dragon: Warm, dirty bone colors for the bones, blues for the squishy bits on the body, blue/silver for the wing membranes, dirty, scorched, broken stones for the base. The roolz: Added link to official rules: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/69639-7-day-goblin-challenge-official-rules/#entry1396460 1. Brushes should be size 0 or no bigger than 1 mm round and 10 mm long. They must only start this size and may be clipped, crushed, and otherwise mutilated during the course of the challenge. 2. The challenge shall run for 7 consecutive days or 168 consecutive hours. 3. The only prep work allowed before the timer is boiling and washing of the model. All alteration and assembly will be done after the timer starts. 4. The challenge will begin with a post of Kaly along with a clock showing the local date and time. The timer runs out at the same time 7 days later. The preparations: Cleaned model The brushes with handy measuring device The paints (at least the starting ones. The idea is to reduce the time I spend digging for that one bottle I think I need) Pictures added.
  11. If you're not familiar by now with the Goblin Challenge, then please go to Buglips' original thread where he first slayed Kaladrax: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/51269-kaladrax-in-seven-days-buglips-is-crazy-wip Then you're definitely going to want to see where OneBoot rose to the occasion and slayed the beast as well: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/68762-oneboot-is-crazy-too-kaladrax-in-7-days-wip/page-1 Well, as First Lady-thing and Buglips' other different favourite, I feel that it's my duty to take up the challenge as well - besides, I need to know for sure whether taking on Ma'aldrakar is actually feasible for me to try or not since I won't be able to take off a full week from work on short notice to tackle him right after the holidays. So the only way for me to do a goblin challenge is while working for at least part of it - I'm at work as I type this and have been since early this morning. I'll also be working about 10 hour days tomorrow, Wednesday and Thursday. Fortunately, I have one shot, or one opportunity here with the 4th of July weekend giving me an already planned 4 day weekend where I was going to be painting anyway. The Roolz: 1) Thou shalt not use any brush larger than a standard size 0. 0 shall be the number on the brush, and the number on the brush shall be 0. 1 shalt thou not use, neither use thou 2, excepting that thou ensures that it is actually 0/2 on the brush. 5 is right out. Once the size 0, being the correct number, be reached, then lobbest thy size 0 brush towards thy foe, who being made of Bones, shall be painted. 2) 7 full days (168 consecutive hours) from when the timer starts are all the time that is allowed in this challenge; whether that time is spent working, sleeping, painting or sobbing uncontrollably is up to the participant. 3) Boiling and scrubbing the model to remove casting residue are the only prep tasks allowed prior to the timer being started. Removing mold lines, greenstuffing or otherwise altering the original sculpt in any way beyond factory spec is prohibited. 4) The timer starts with the posting of a picture of Kaladrax and my intended brush(es) to be used and a device bearing my local time. The challenge will therefore end at the same time 7 days (168 consecutive hours) later. I spent yesterday putting together my new paint racks, organizing and cleaning my desk so I have a fresh start to my working space and then doing a dry fit to make sure I had all of Kaladrax's parts, boiling the parts that bothered me (probably poorly) and giving him a good scrub down. Mmm, just like mom's spaghetti. I will begin this evening as soon as I'm home from work and ready to go - probably around 7pm CST. Note: I may or may not log onto the google hangout while working on Kaladrax. As fond of you people as I am, I may not be in a talking mood or may need to zone out listening to music instead of trying to pay attention to and/or participate in a conversation. Don't be too disappointed, I'll be doing audio only anyway. If you see me on the hangout and I don't respond, or I randomly mute myself or drop out entirely without warning, (so, you know, just like any other night...) please don't take offense. It's my understanding that this challenge is going to be particularly mentally grueling and frustrating at times, so I don't want to take that out on anyone else.
  12. Bones Kaladrax, as Frostwyrm.

    Right. So, I'm not good at 'work in progress', but I opened my mouth somewhere, and I figure I should make good. Or so. I'm still learning the quirks of Reaper's forums, so .. um. Forgive my blunders, as I.. well. Blunder through. ^^; A little background. I started working on this last year, or so, and got interrupted by moving. Kaladrax went into a shoe box, and I sort of left him to languish there while I worked on more important things, like getting the house in order and the like. I fished him out a week or so ago, and... he looked a lot like this, with more shredded paper sticking to him. Ah. Poor 'Drax. I originally started with a dark bluish grey, but when I couldn't find the pots, I said words to the effect of, 'eh, flux it', grabbed a sponge and went after him again with something else. I don't own an airbrush, so the sponge was the next best thing. Worked pretty well, gave an interesting texture. I may try it again for all the rocks on DDS2, when I get around to that. And then I didn't take pictures, because I'm bad like that. Well. No. Not entirely true. I did take one of the base, after I squooshed grey on it a lot. With a sponge. I then forgot to take a LOT of pictures. This is more or less where I'm at. ... I'm trying for an effect reminiscent of frost-rimed. Can I find a tutorial on that? No. So ... er. Help? Nothing has been glued, he's just dry-fitted and scowling at everything. Current material list is a broad range of Reaper paints; Nightmare 'Black', Maggot White, Dirty Bone_. Some P3 stuff (Morrow White went in there somewhere, and a lot of the blue was dragged out with their blue ink. A couple of Citadel greys for the base; Dawnstone and Eshin Grey. I also used - on the skulls - a little of Secret Weapon Washes' 'Drying Blood'. ... that white sheen on wing-talons and all is an acrylic ink I bought .... oh, ages ago. White Pearl is the colour. I'm having some trouble finding a brand, but it's made by Daler-Rowney, somewhere in England.
  13. After a solid week of hard-fought battle, detailed in the WIP thread, I am pleased to present to you... KALADRAX REBORN! All of my notes and thoughts, as well as what paint colors were used where, are detailed in the WIP thread linked above. EDIT: I would be remiss if I didn't include pictures of the Not-Trophy, which I just received! Huzzah! --OneBoot :D
  14. Kaladrax

    This is my first post in the Reaper forum.Thought I might start with my take on kaladrax. I've never tried to paint anything this big before but I could not resist when I saw it. I bought a bunch of minis(most of the first kickstarter really) from one of my sons friends and there he was in the box. Anyway, I would welcome any C&C or suggestions from anyone. I've been painting for a while but I still have lots of room to improve.
  15. Kaladrax

    So I've been working on this guy pretty much all day, and I didn't do the crazy goblin thing using only a teeny tiny brush... And I still have so much to do... At this point it's all dirty bone on the bones, and valiejo's red leather (2/3) walnut brown (1/3) on the 'fleshy' bits.
  16. 77192: Coraldrax (Pic Heavy!)

    Finally he's done! Finished! "On the coast of the vast sea there once stood a mighty kingdom, its walls of white marble shining in the gleaming light of the sun that would rise over the sea every morning to bathe its pearly walls. Great, colorful mosaics decorated every flat surface and fabulous ornate carvings were etched wherever possible But it was not to last...for one day, with the rising of the sun, there came a great wave. A leviathan of the sea rose from the raging froth and breakers, a horrendous skeleton! It was encrusted as if it had once been part of the sea floor, and this monster tore the city and broke its white walls. Upon its ruins he crouched, reclaiming land that had once been his, centuries before..." WIP Thread (dragon) : http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/53995-siris-kaladrax-n-nethyrmaul-wip-thread/ WIP Thread (base) : http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/56564-basing-coraldrax/ First up are Full shot from all sides, then a closer up of the base on all sides
  17. Anvil's Kaladrax

    Here's my Kaladrax. I wanted her to be a blue dragon with a fondness for cold mountain tops. Fill in you're own story for the treasure chest and giant skulls.
  18. I was playing with filters and this happened. So: You just found this picture in the attic. Tell me the story of what happened and why your grandfather burned the clock.
  19. 77192: Kaladrax Reborn

    Greetings. I finally gathered up the courage to post one of my minis. Hope I am doing this right and hope you like it. I started painting about two years ago with the first Bones Kickstarter. I would really value any feedback that you have so I can continue to develop my craft. Thanks. My CMON page: http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Jewelego
  20. Here is my showoff of my finished Kaladrax. My take on Kaladrax was to have it guarding treasure, and lots of it, as well as to make use of one of the LED Alpha Kits I got from Powered Play Gaming's last Kickstarter. Because Kaladrax is Bones, it made the task of adding the lighting kit easier (a lot easier) than if it was metal; also, the empty cavity in Kaladrax's chest/belly, as well as the recess on the underside of the base itself, made it suitable for housing the light kit components. The switch and battery connector are housed under the base, with the PC board and LEDs housed in the chest cavity. The biggest part of the conversion was in segmenting the neck so that I could drill out holes large enough for the wiring to pass through from the chest to the head in order to install LEDs to light the eyes and mouth. Details were posted in my WIP thread http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/54482-77192-kaladrax-wip/. I also posted two videos to my YouTube Channel (my username is the same there as here). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuiIWFTDAaI and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRfru-_m_B4 What is that lurking in the shadows? Is it a statue? Wait, it's alive! The undead dragon in its lair! Do these adventurers dare to challenge the dragon for its treasure?
  21. Basing Coraldrax

    Okay, so I'm probably going to go either this afternoon or tomorrow and pick up a wooden oval base and cork [to be sea rocks on the base] to put Coraldrax on. I had a few questions, as I've never constructed a cork base...is hot glue okay to use? Should I use a different glue to hold it together? What do you recommend to cut it? Xacto knife? Figured I should ask this before going to pick up supplies haha Coraldrax: Main thread with more pictures: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/54577-coraldrax-sea-kaladrax/
  22. Kaladrax Reborn

    I finished up Kaladrax a couple weeks ago. He should be arriving at his new home in Arizona tomorrow. :D Hope you like him. And the ever popular size comparison shot!
  23. Coraldrax [Sea Kaladrax]

    "On the coast of the vast sea there once stood a mighty kingdom, its walls of white marble shining in the gleaming light of the sun that would rise over the sea every morning to bathe its pearly walls. Great, colorful mosaics decorated every flat surface and fabulous ornate carvings were etched wherever possible But it was not to last...for one day, with the rising of the sun, there came a great wave. A leviathan of the sea rose from the raging froth and breakers, a horrendous skeleton! It was encrusted as if it had once been part of the sea floor, and this monster tore the city and broke its white walls. Upon its ruins he crouched, reclaiming land that had once been his, centuries before..." I wasn't sure what I was going to do with Kaladrax when I first got him...there several ideas poking around in my head, but I definitely knew I wanted to do something different. The softness of the rocks, the smooth roundness of them, made me think of erosion. So I thought....either desert themed, eroded by constant sand-filled winds, or coastal themed with the tide line. I went coastal. I bought my very first batch of green stuff and tried it out, and then heavily decorated Kaladrax and his base with it to make sea weed, sponges, star fish, and more. I added sea themed mosaics to the white marble of the ruins, and a few old chains. Stingrays, a crab, octopus, and a few sea gulls are hidden around the base as well. Work in Progress thread and pictures: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/53995-siris-kaladrax-n-nethyrmaul-wip-thread/ His basing project [ongoing] http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/56564-basing-coraldrax/ Sorry for the many pictures! **This was done purely with craft paints from Hobby Lobby!**
  24. 77192: Kaladrax WIP

    Yesterday evening I decided to take the plunge and start work on my Kaladrax model. Last year I participated in Powered Play Gaming's Kickstarter for their light kits and I knew I wanted to use one of them on Kaladrax. I spent Friday night and most of Saturday putting the two together. My first step was to remove mold lines so I won't have to worry about them later. Then came the careful process of planning out how I would install the light kit on Kaladrax for best effect. I knew I wanted to make use of both the base and Kaladrax's belly to keep the kit components. So, the first major effort was in separating the two halves that make up the belly, as it was glued at the factory. With some strategic bending and the help of a long necked flathead screwdriver I was able to separate them. I knew I wanted to light up the eyes and mouth, and eventually settled on using two different colored LED lights, one for the eyes, the other for the mouth. As the light strings from Powered Play Gaming's alpha kits come as a pair of lights, this meant using two different strings and only one light of each string. What to do with the other light of each pair? Leave them in the belly to provide an additional light source, this one to suggest some powerful animating force originating there. So, how to get the lights up to Kaladrax's head and minimize exposure of the wires? By carefully cutting up the neck into several short sections, then a combination of drilling and digging out a series of holes big enough for the LED lights and the wires to pass through from the belly to the back of the head. Then, drilling into the head, both in the mouth and in both eye sockets for the lights to show through. The mouth was easier than the eyes. For the eyes I ended up cutting two short lengths of fiber optic cable from Powered Play Gaming's fiber optic kit (the 3mm cable size) and then inserting one into each eye socket, making sure that the inner ends ended up fairly close to each other so that a single LED light could be the source for both cables. Test mock-ups showed great promise in this strategy as it made the lit eyes more focused and defined with just the round end of the cable carrying the light through. I knew I didn't want to keep all the light kit components in the belly, as I wanted the switch and the battery pack accessible without having to open the belly to use them. So, this required some careful drilling (and digging) into the base to provide a hole for the wires to pass through from the inside of the base to the belly. I carefully chose the spot for this hole to minimize the length of wire exposed between the base and Kaladrax. I also got the idea of mounting the switch to the base so that it could be accessed from the outside instead of having to lift up the base to get at the inside. I chose one of the flat stone surfaces on the backside of the base as the location for the switch, you can see it in the pictures and on the YouTube video. Now, in order to get the neck back together and strong enough to hold up, I decided to drill a series of holes along the top side of the neck and ran a brass rod through them for support. Finally I was ready to put it all together for a dry fit before gluing anything permanently and make sure it was working as planned. So far so good. Now time to glue the neck parts back together (with the brass rod and LED wires securely in place) and then use some epoxy putty to fill gaps and cover the seams between the neck sections (since I used a hobby saw to make the cuts, they were not a perfect match when I put them back together). So here is where I am now, before any painting, with the light kit installed and Kaladrax glued into several assemblies to make it easier to paint. Here are some unlighted pictures of my assembled Kaladrax, followed by a couple with the lights on: Here is a link to the video I uploaded to my YouTube channel showing the lighting effects: http://youtu.be/bDFRQGz0tp4 If I can figure out how to embed the video, I'll see if I can do it. Next step: Painting!
  25. GCB Paints: 77192 Kaladrax

    [Edited to reflect a thread split.] After seeing some of the incredible WIPs here, I wanted to try doing some of my own. So, I decided to start with something simple: Kaladrax! Over the Christmas holidays, I went over and trimmed and sanded all the mold lines from the model. Kaladrax's details are rather soft, but that was an advantage here, as I didn't have to worry much about losing any detail as I trimmed. The base was annoying to clean up. Every time I looked, there was another mold line I missed. The spine cleanup was a multi-day nightmare. Remember, always cut away from your hand. I was lucky this time, as I just poked myself only enough to draw blood. Personally, I sometimes think that a big project isn't really underway until I've anointed it with blood. Let's hope this isn't enough to rouse an ancient dracolich from aeons of slumber. That brings us to tonight: puttying and priming. When I boiled the parts to reshape them, the torso halves came apart. It was what I was planning to do, since there was a big gap between them. I've taken the opportunity to fill the gap with putty. I'm using Tamiya Epoxy Putty, since it's what I have on hand. It's designed for resin and styrene models, but should work here. I haven't used Green Stuff, but I expect it works the same as this: Trim two equal pieces from each stick, then fold them together until they're blended. Keep it wet while you're working it, to keep it from sticking to your hands. It's workable for about 1/2 hour or more before it begins to harden, and takes more than a day to fully cure. I made a long string of putty, then wrapped it around the outside of the torso seam. I then ran a bead of AC glue (super glue) around the inside, and on the inner alignment studs. I quickly jammed them together and squeezed them together with a few clamps, and set it aside until the AC set. There were a few lines and holes to fill on the model, particularly a large injection hole in the middle of the head (above, left) and a meet line or two on the base (above, right), where the Bones material cooled lightly before meeting, leaving a seam. Normally, I'd leave it as a crack in the stone, but since it overlaps a carved crack, I felt it had to go. I jammed putty into the gaps, then smoothed it over again and again with a putty knife, until the only material left was in the gaps. The head especially is too soft for this, and I had to add material back into the hold several times until I could smooth the hole over properly without leaving a depression. I'll deal with any surface roughness after it hardens. Back to the torso. I removed the clamps and trimmed the squeezed out putty away. Look! No gaps! I even sculpted a bit of rib past where it just ends on the casting, as you can see in the background two photos up. Now I just leave it to harden, which in this cold weather, may take two or more days. For the rest of the parts, I washed them and taped over the parts that will be glued together. Then I primed them with Liquitex Neutral Gray Gesso, as I expect the model to be painted in a mix of light and dark colors. This stuff shrinks as it dries and leaves a very smooth surface to paint on. (Also, you can never have enough clamps.) I had some trouble with the hydrophobic nature of Bones, and for this model at least I was seeing some serious beading. It's been rather hit and miss before, so I tried something different. Remembering an old science experiment about surface tension and water beading, I dumped a generous amount of gesso onto my mixing surface, then just barely touched the bristles of a wet mixing brush to a drop of dish soap -- the tiniest of smidgens. I then worked this thoroughly into the gesso, and painted it onto the model. Much, much less beading! I was left with a secondary problem -- more paint bubbles -- but that was as easy to solve as blowing on the gesso, and could be solved in the future by using a touch of liquid dishwasher detergent instead. It remains to be seen if this affects the primer adhesion. And that's a good place to leave off tonight, as all this dries.