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Found 30 results

  1. Rather than continuing the Kingdom Death: Monster assembly discussion in the acquisitions thread I've created a thread specifically for that purpose. Post your tips, tricks, and little things you've noticed here and make the lives of your fellow hobbyist a little easier. To start I'm assembling the minis on the "prologue" sprue, which are conveniently numbered. While this should keep people from mixing parts together, it's still nice to see pictures! First up is the lion. So for things I've noticed: The face doesn't want to fit very well. I had to do some trimming to get it in place, and it looks like I could have still cut away a little more. Attach the lower jaw before placing the rest of the lion's head. If you attach the main part of the head first I don't think it's the end of the world but you'll likely have to cut the tab off of the jaw to slide it into place. The hindquarters didn't fit together quite as nicely as it looked like they would when I dry-fitted it. You can see the gaps this created below, but they should be easily filled. I'm sure most of you have been at this longer than me, but for the new arrivals an easy way to get the mini to sit flat is to put all three feet in place with a drop of liquid cement and quickly align them as best you can. Then flip the mini over and press down gently. Polystyrene does not melt together instantly so you have a window to make adjustments before it sets. It will probably create a small gap at one of the ankles but it will ensure that your mini doesn't have a paw that is at an angle. Obviously to do it this way you need to glue the legs to the body before you glue on the feet. If you go feet first he'll just stand as he stands. Next up is survivor "C" This time I remembered to take a pre-assembly pic. She is pretty straightforward but since I'm at it... Her left leg has a nice groove to ensure the hanging fabric goes in place properly. Doing this first makes it really easy to glue her right leg in place. Her weapon arm is actually covering two sprue attachment points, and should not be glued in place until her torso is attached to her legs.
  2. One of the minis that first got me into gaming was the old Lord of Change. This was a good while back- in those days, a Lord of Change was mounted on a square 40mm base, and wasn’t much larger than the ogres of the day and they fit into a blister pack. The new Lord of Change may very well be the best mini Games Workshop has in its lineup. A very fine piece indeed, and I’m happy that I’ve gotten to paint it a few times now. Here are two of them (for the same force).
  3. Hey all, I looked for a thread about this but didn't see one. Anyway, what do people prefer to paint, metal or plastic minis? I just started painting and have only done plastic. I've seen pictures of some metal ones and they seem to have crisper details. I see they offer both options for a lot of minis on the reaper store, wanted to see what people think? Thanks!
  4. So my gaming group is trying to relaunch some 40K interest I've been tasked with providing some greenery to the table. I've enlisted the help of my 8 year old as he's very keen to start playing himself and we've raided the local Ikea and a pet store and set to work. Thus far, we broken our purchases down and everything has been washed. I was going to paint up a bunch of them using some different colours to represent alien plant-life but my son doesn't like the idea so at least the initial ones will be "normal" looking. I still plan on hitting them with a little airbrushed green/yellow/brown to add some pop. Tonight will be some prototyping of combinations and I'll probably cut out some random shapes of MDF to use as bases. I was going to use some of my base boss loot but... Thanks for looking.
  5. My older son (now 27...) has been up to visit twice in the past month or so. Because of the portability we found ourselves playing an old favorite, Hordes of the Things, using 1/72 scale plastic armies assembled from an eclectic variety of sources. In my usual scattered way, my muse led me to pull out a delayed project, a Hordes expansion army of fantasy-ed Viking barbarians. My troops, if they are ever completed, will be assembled from a mix of Revell, Orion, and Zvezda figures, mixed within the units. These two are Zvezda. I'll go back and collect pictures of the rest of the finished figures later...
  6. So, was bored and wanted to paint something to take along for my GenCon trip as a Prize for some DDM Guild events. So, I saw the Planetar from the most recent DDM set and thought, it had a cool pose and a bad paintjob! So I decided to try and fix that. The Wings look a lot better in person. Also, whoever thought that style of Flying Post was a good idea should most likely be fired and never allowed to be in change of miniature anything ever again! Took about an hour and a half to paint it. GF
  7. As I've been creating my own set of Chibi Kingdom Death minis, I've found that some of the monsters have such bizarre proportions that there's no need to convert them into chibis. Overall, my approach is to have the minis become less distorted and cute as they get larger (the way that Final Fantsy, Pokemon and Super Dungeon Explore do things). So, a lot of the very large monsters don't need to be altered. Instead, I try to paint them in vibrant colors that really let them pop out. I also create the bases using chibi faces rather than the normal ones. So, here is my Sunstalke. I de-emphasized the nudity in the painting of it, but since I didn't actually re-sculpt the Kingdom Deathy bits, it is linked: http://www.gardenninja.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/Kingdom-Death/sunstalker-1.JPG?i=642091509
  8. So my older son was up for a visit this weekend with some gaming. After yesterday's Saga and Frostgrave games, we finished up this morning with a "traditional" game of Hordes of the Things (Wargames Research Group, 1991), which was one of the first wargames he learned to play. Since he was in middle school, we have generally played with 1/72 scale plastics, and, as an adult, he's quite adept at painting them. So, when we were done, I was inspired to dig through my boxes of projects set aside, and work up a couple of elves. (He drew up a campaign map a few years ago; I was assigned elves, but haven't painted any lately...since I had the few I have on the table today: it made sense to work on a few...) So, not yet based, but shown here with Sir Forescale to show how small they are, a Caesar unarmored elf swordsman and one of the ~5 poses of unarmored archers they have: Since my bench is too messy to actually use right now these were done at the kitchen table with my travel paint kit of limited palette colors. I did use a pair of good brushes rather than my travel brushes (to save wear and tear) and my optivisor. Some of the autumn cloak had been done previously.
  9. I did a quick job on a couple of the North Star plastic Frostgrave Cultists this week, so we would have some for the kick-off of our Thaw of the Lich Lord campaign tomorrow (weather permitting). I really like these North Star plastic kits, though I felt this set had more undead skeletal parts in it than I would have preferred since I wanted it mainly to make cultists and not skeletal warriors.
  10. I needed a female human archer to complete my new Frostgrave warband, so I thought I'd see if I could make one using the pieces from the North Star plastic Frostgrave soldiers set. While I've heard it said that since the clothing on these figures is so bulky that any of them could be used as women, since the figure's shape wouldn't show through all the clothing layers anyway, I like it when figures that are supposed to be female actually look like a woman. I didn't want to just sculpt breasts on one of the existing figures either, as I'm not a very good sculptor. So I thought about where I could find a female torso to use; and turned to either the Wargames Factory Amazon set, or Female Zombie set. I didn't think the armor on the Amazons looked right for Frostgrave, so I selected one of the female zombie bodies from a spare sprue I had. I cut the the female zombie in half at the waist, and then cut one of the Frostgrave soldier bodies in half as well. I then glued the top of the zombie to the bottom of the Frostgrave soldier. There is a significant size difference in the two waists, so my plan was to hide this shortfall with some of the many accessories that come with the Frostgrave Soldier set. I added a head from the female zombie set, and then arms from the Frostgrave Soldier set. I needed to trim the upper arms a little as the shoulder areas on the female zombie torso are a bit smaller than the shoulder areas on the Frostgrave Soldier arms. In the end, the bulky arms help hide the narrowness of the waist. I glued a backpack to her back, and a quiver on her front hip to aid in hiding the smaller waist.
  11. The Undead Horde by Mantic Miniatures Skeleton (10) Ghouls (2) Zombies (3) Table Top Quality ​ Got these guy from a Box of Goodwill Exchange and I tell you what exactly what we needed for our up coming Frostgrave game we are going to playing. _________________________________________________________________ Your intrepid warband marches confidently on the outskirts of the frozen city. After a long campaign clearing out the area your brave band of soldiers are ready to pursue deeper in to the white laden ruins. The cold wind, although bitter, has become manageable for your warband. Swiftly the winds begin to rush in from the inner part of the frozen Acropolis, deathly cold. Visibility is no more than twenty to thirty feet in front. Ahead you can see the white and grey haze of snow concealing the ruins. Your captain shouts, "halt" as the warband freezes in it's tracks. A slight sound of creaking then the dull murmur of metal sliding across stone and ice. The sound echos through the winds shaking your men to their cores. Slowly but suddenly a troop of skeletons flanked by two heavily armoured skeletons appear in the distance. It's just as you feared... _________________________________________________________________ -=The idea was to make them look like they are slowly marching out of the snow blind. It's so cold snow is sticking to them. =- -= The snow flocking turned out better than I expected. I copied the techniques of some fellow Frostgrave players here on the forums and I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Although with these it's hard to see but some other Frostgrave miniatures (which you'll see later) It turned out excellently. =- -=This has been an entire painting season for me. LOTS of wargaming stuff and it is all finished around now. I hope you guys like it.=- This was one of my second attempt at OSL. It turned out pretty good. __________________________________ Work in Progress for these miniatures.
  12. The Undead Horde by Mantic Miniatures Skeleton (10) Ghouls (2) Zombies (3)I Got these guy from a Box of Goodwill Exchange and I tell you what exactly what we needed for our up coming Frostgrave game we are going to playing. ____________________________________________________________________ I used some Greenstuff to make a square insert for the "banner holder" guy. Not sure really what to do with it. I think I am going to make it into a glowing light. That light will also be in theirs eyes. As if they are strengthened from it. Duel priming: Goat of Grey then an over lay of white. After having done this spray method a few times now I have learned to make the top a majority white.I learned this from Massive Voodoo. I also put a coat of Terrain Khaki on the Skeletons With the Zombies I decided on a green tone:The body is first painted in Leather White in layers (1:3)*. Then washed in a Green Wash(VJ). (1:3) Next I used Malvernian Purple in the deep recesses (1:2) Here is the set of 5 none Skeleton miniatures. The Ghouls, I did a kind of reverse of the Zombies:The body is first painted in Leather White in layers (1:3)*. Then Washed in Malvernian Purple(1:3) Then washed in a Green Wash(VJ). (1:3) Next I used a Malvernian Purple in the deep recesses (1:2) ____________________________________________________________________ That's it for now. I am adding the final touches to the non-skeleton ones now then going to approach them. Questions and comments are always welcome. Additionally, tip or suggestions on the direction I should take are also welcome. Thanks! *I thin down all my paints usually with Flow Improver - first - then Water. Example: a 1:3 ratio is 1 drop of paint to 2 parts Fi and 1 part water.
  13. I am a huge fan of Reaper paints and miniatures. I've collected many metal Reaper minis now and have bought big into each Bones Kickstarter. But I want to request that Reaper consider changing the type of plastic used for the smaller miniatures with thin weapons or other parts, especially swords, spears, etc. I know the hot/cold water treatment can help, but it is still difficult to get some weapons to be really straight on the smaller minis with long thin weapons. I have recently seen other companies produce nice plastic miniatures that felt sturdy enough not to easily break, but stiff enough to hold the straight pointy shape on long thin swords and spears. So I would urge Reaper to consider varying the material used for some Bones miniatures. With respect to larger miniatures, or even small miniatures lacking long thin weapons or parts, I have no such concerns and find Bones to be a great material, especially for the very big miniatures that would be way too heavy for comfort and way too expensive in metal.
  14. I've got a few of these Em4 Dwarfs (formerly from Grenadier's Fantasy Warriors boxed set) that I bought on a whim. They're ridiculously cheap, so if you're getting something from Em4 anyway then there's no reason not to check them out. Anyway, it's a 26-year-old one-piece plastic mini and it definitely shows in the quality of the cast; there's a hole in the mini between the chest plate and the beard (this is on every cast, not just this one) and there's a large lug on his back that I couldn't be bothered removing considering it was a 50 cent mini. If I were after a fix, I'd consider slinging a spare shield or a scabbard over his back. For the money though, not a bad sculpt and he painted up pretty nicely in the end. Definitely a good option for building a Dwarf army, and if I didn't already have a bunch of WFB Dwarfs I'd order another 100 or so of Em4's.
  15. Late last year, I decided I wanted to do a Santa themed Frostgrave warband after completing a vary Santa-like wizard figure, which you can see here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/66121-darkrasp-evil-priest-77151-to-santa-claus-conversion/ While I have slowly been collecting the figures I wanted to use as the soldiers for this warband for a while now, I finally started painting them this past week. The first I painted up is Yukon Cornelius, Treasure Hunter. Yukon Cornelius is a character from the classic stop-motion children's Christmas TV special, Rudoph the Red Nosed Reindeer. Since the character is a prospector obsessed with finding silver and gold, I thought he would be an ideal candidate for a Treasure Hunter type soldier. I was able to make the character by using pieces from the Frostgrave Soldiers boxed set of multi-part plastic figures by North Star Figures. There was a wool-capped head perfect for Yukon Cornelius, but unfortunately that head didn't have a beard. So I ended up having to do head surgery; cutting the top off of the wool hat head, and gluing it onto a bearded head that I sliced the top off of. My next challenge was where to find a pickaxe. Then I remembered that I had a couple spare miner dwarves from the old GW "Skull Pass" boxed set, and they wielded pickaxes as weapons. So I removed the pickaxe from one of them, and re-glued it onto a Frostgrave solder's hand that had it's weapon removed. As always, C & C welcome.
  16. I have bucket loads of these plastic archers. I painted some of them last year for these monthly challenges. Someday I would like to have a painted unit or two of them. If that is ever going to happen I need a super-fast speed-paint method to get there. This was one such experiment... ...such as it was. I went into it with the idea, "what would I do if these were tiny 10 or 15mm figures"? But do that with these bigger figs. I needed to do something fast before February expired.
  17. Doing a quick experiment with using a bleach scrub to 'prime' a polyvinyl plastic figure. Won't know if it really works until after the mini sees a few gaming sessions. First washed the fig with soapy water then used a toothbrush to scrub some plain bleach (not the concentrated kind) all over the fug, washed off the bleach and dried the mini Second experiment was starting off with a Drybrushed Folk Art 2558 Cinnamon topcoat over the brownish reddish plastic. Missed a few spots but those won't be seen from when the mini is on the table. Then a Magic Wash* with Folk Art 504 Van Dyke Brown to cover the whole of the fig. letting that fully dry now. *1 part future floor finish, 4 parts water.
  18. Couple experiments were done on this one this morning, one ongoing on the paint's durability. Just dropping it off here because Grumpy Cave Bear seemed interested in the WIP thread.
  19. So I've been given some hard plastic models, styrene, I think. They come in grey hard plastic and mostly on rectangular sprues anyway. One is Malifaux's "Whiskey Golem" (or, as my husband said, a wooden steampunk robot), one is Perry Miniatures "Medieval Cottage 1300-1700," and one is a set of Pegasus Hobbies "Gothic City Building Small Set #1." The Gothic Building set snaps together but the makers recommend glue for some delicate parts. The other two must be glued. Can I ask what glues people recommend for this sort of model? I gather there is some sort of special plastic solvent glue for plastic models, but I haven't really played around with it. My children used superglue on their Games Workshop plastic armies because, apart from that one incident of setting the cotton opera glove on fire, they could safely use it. What I have at the moment are several types of superglue and epoxy. Looking at the cottage, I am concerned about whether the model will hold together. It's basically just flat walls glued together at the edges. The structural engineer in me itches to put interior corner reinforcement and braces inside. Is this overkill? Will the proper glue help its integrity? I also note that two of the kits contain nothing in the way of assembly diagrams or instuctions. Should I take this as a given in hard plastic models and treat them as a sort of IQ test?
  20. Just wondering which ones you guys prefer. Me? I personally enjoy plastic. Why? Mostly because I'm lazy and metal miniatures usually need a little more work than plastic. What do you guys think?
  21. Recently I was hired to paint another ten Circle Orboros Griffon models for a gentleman from Las Vegas. He already owns two that I painted last year, but he wanted to be able to field a veritable army of birdmen in his AD&D game. Here is the first of the batch.
  22. Hi everyone. I held on to some of the better miniatures from the Dragon Strike board game published by TSR in 1993. One of them was the Fire Elemental. I painted this on up as "Fantasy Fire," so I can paint the Reaper Bones fire miniatures as "Real Fire" to see which looks better. I personally think our eyes like seeing "Fantasy Fire" better, as it is dark below/deep and bright above/surface, the way we usually see miniatures. Besides, fire elementals are based on magic, not burning hydrocarbons, so they can put their hottest face forward to toast up little adventurers ;P If the elemental plane of fire was based on burning hydrocarbons, it would have burnt out by now! The orginal base was sawed off. I put it on a 25mm slotta-base topped off with some Plastruct ® O Scale "Polished Stone." For anyone who hasn't found Railroad Styrene, give it a shot: There are lots of different patterns to choose from. I tried to give the effect that the elemental was the light source, (with shading the stones outward circumferentially) and put in some OSL with lava orange. Let me know what you think.
  23. I was thinking of picking up some of the pathfinder battles minis for a few specific monsters, and I was wondering if anyone has had any luck repainting them? The paint jobs on them are very good for prepainted, but I'd like to try my hand at doing something a little bit more clean and with some shading and color variation. If you have repainted them, did you have to do anything special aside from washing them? Would a water-based paint or ink wash stick? Any experience or advice appreciated!
  24. This is a mini I decided to enter into Starship Superstar. She is the plastic version of One Shot from Relic Knights. Don't know that there's a whole lot else to say, so here are a pic:
  25. I've been considering different and cost effective means to base the 500 or so figures I am getting next month from the Bones Kickstarter. I have a ton of tile samples from an architect that cleared out their old stuff. However the majority aren't square or are smaller than 1" square. I have access to slate from sidewalks breaking apart around the neighborhood. Seriously. Got about 5-10 pounds of the stuff of varying thicknesses. Makes a nice display base for the figures. You can see it on my two posted show off miniatures; Stone Giant Warrior & Thornback Troll. But 500+ figures is a lot of bases. Okay so some don't fit on 1" square bases for use with fantasy games. But I did find a product that gets me a ton of bases for cheap. 5 cents a base cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8T9B8 It's a learning aid. $19.95 for 400 one-inch plastic tiles. The colors don't matter, they'll get painted along with the figure. It's plastic so I can drill into it for pinning, etc. I am sure there are alternatives, but for the price and my Prime free two-day shipping I said, "why not?" Limited supplies are available, but for those of us who've bought in for multiples of the Vampire level it could be your answer to basing all those minis. Assuming you want to. Mine will be here Friday. I'll add one to my Bones Garrick or Barnabas when I get them and post a picture of it with notes about it.