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Found 30 results

  1. So, when I first tried painting this, I made tolerably decent base for it, coated it with Tamiya Clear Green, and observed that the details were totally unclear. So I highlighted it with yellow. And it looked .... AWFUL. And therefore, I put it on the Shelf of Shame, from whence it has been reproaching me these past three years. "Fiiiiniiish usss," the ghostly damsels kept whispering to me in spooky undertones. "Nope," I said, and returned to all kinds of other projects. "Awwww," they would say, and disspiritedly return to moping in their eldritch green flame. But tonight, I finally decided that the only solution was to disregard the translucent plastic and paint the ladies as if they were any other mini. Thus, I give you a Ghostly Summons. Pics linked for nudity. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Pic 6 Pic 7 Pic 8 Pic 9 I had to wipe the whole thing down with a wet brush to remove the surface dust first. >.> I think the skin tone on the green one came out best. I have no earthly idea when I'll actually use this mini for anything, but at least they're off the Shelf of Shame.
  2. The fastest minis I ever painted! 15 minutes for two models, start to finish. Each got a single coat of Tamiya Clear Green/Orange and then glued to a base. I didn't feel the need to decorate the base for a puddle of acidic goo. I should probably seal them though. That hasn't happened yet, and will probably add another five minutes of slopping brush-on sealer onto them.
  3. So I was experimenting with Taimaya clears and I wanted to share what I've painted so far. I think the colors come out a little dark, but I love the jewel like gloss they dry to. I am going to get me some Taimaya clear (with no color) and some Taimaya thinner and keep expirementing. The Ghostly Summons has a few layers of Golden Glow over top to start building up some highlights. And so does the NightSpectre.
  4. I've been thinking about doing this for awhile - painting up one of the clear "invisible" adventurers in Bones III as a translucent figure. The obvious choice was 77449 - Invisible Rogue, as my delightful wife painted the matching 77035 - Visible Deladrin some time ago. I painted the figure using a thinned Tamiya Clear Blue X-23 (thinned with Tamiya Thinner X-20). This produced a very light blue tint to the figure while at the same time introducing some definition. I also hit points where I wanted extra definition, mainly the face and weapon transition points, with unthinned Tamiya Clear Blue. The broccoli is basically Reaper Peacock Green worked up through Reaper Clear Green to Reaper Clear Yellow. The bottom of the base has been painted Reaper Pure Black. Important Note: Tamiya Clear paints are significantly different from Reaper Clear Paints. Tamiya Clear are translucent, Reaper Clear are not. Issues - there's a big one in that because of the black I painted the base, the boots of the translucent figure are significantly darker than the rest of the figure. It almost reads right, but I'd have been better off doing the first coat on the base a green or maybe a white so they looked like they were clear going onto the grass of the base. It's something I'll consider later, although could largely be ignored if you rebased the figure. But on the whole I think this came out pretty good, accidental scimitar that we never noticed originally on Deladrin and all. There's one additional issue that I didn't spot till after I posted this - a Virtual Chocolate Fish™ to anyone who can tell the class what that very delibrate mistake was for our educational porpoises.
  5. Good evening! I'm trying to paint a 1/8th scale Tali (from Mass Effect). She's got a clear plastic face cover. In the game it's tinted purple. I had some Army Painter quickshade purple tone ink. It worked when brushed on in many thin layers but it's blotchy. Any suggestions on how to get a nice smooth transparent purple? Thanks!
  6. The WIP is here: A little less see-through than I'd like, but the light still passes. There is glow in the dark medium used, but it's not very effective, and would never come into play anyway.
  7. I had so much fun with my slimes I decided to do a few more translucent minis I had handy. These are the Grave Wraith and Nightspectre (somewhere else I have a Ghostly Summons 77095, Labella DeMornay 77096, and a spare Spirit 77098 that I will paint another time). I wanted to do these quickly, so it's ink mostly - the same ones as with the slimes, plus maybe a few darker phthalos. I've done a coat of glow in the dark medium for each (photographed), a coat of the not highest green, and picked out the skeletons in the nightspectre with a wash of medium and brown liner and base coated the grave wraith's sword and tombstone in a dark blue-grey. not photographed Eventually everything will get a drybrush of spectral glow (and maybe another, mixed with maggot white, in a few spots). For the nightspectre, I'm going to try and treat it as a fire and get darker going out. With the wraith, I'm going to go lighter out from the bottom centre. Plus highlights for both. The goal will be for them to be mostly translucent (and glow in the dark, because everything gets that medium). Hopefully I'll figure out how much direct light, and how much medium I need to be able to photograph this. Photos later today in subsequent posts.
  8. I have 2 of the clear bones shadows and 1 of the original spectres in metal. I might pick up another bones one. I'll be trying to paint these a few different ways, so they'll be distinguishable, but also similarly enough that they might be thought of as a unit. The metal spectre will be painted as a solid being, doing the reverse dry-brush, and glow-in-the-dark medium. One of the bones minis will use magenta, purple, payne's grey, prussian blue, dioxazine purple, maybe a pthalo and some warlord purple, and spectral glow for solid paints. I am going to do some experimenting. This will probably be done slowly through march or april I may do some zombies really quickly to go along with all this.
  9. This is a quick post - pics will follow shortly from my phone. You can see the WIP with recipe and process pics by clicking on the link back there.
  10. In between base coats of glow in the dark medium for specter #2 I decided to unwrap and quick paint the slimes with ink. What follows is, to my belief, THE green slime recipe.
  11. Today, I have a bit of time. Not enough to really paint, but enough to do something that may be useful to me AND to other forum-ites. A week or so ago I bought those Badger Freak Flex translucent paints. I already had a bunch (but not all of) the Reaper Clear paints, and a few liquitex acrylic artist inks. I'm going to do a comparison on some paper. I think straight up, and then below 1:1 with matte medium In all I think it's about 20 colours, and I'll try to keep stuff clearly defined by brand and color. I suppose doing this over something like newsprint would be better, but I don't have any handy. Hopefully I'll be posting results later. If not, in the next few days. I'll update later with a full list of the colors I'm using, but in the meantime, if you have requests/suggestions within reason... please post them below.
  12. Probably my fastest paint job ever. Two nights, a couple of hours tops. He was fun though. It was my first translucent Bones and tried to use the translucency in a way that would benefit the model. Not sure how it ended up looking like this. I found it quite frightening when I was finished, like I painted something out of a nightmare.
  13. In my order of clears, I had the cube! I sculpted the flagstones with some greenstuff and a toothpick, and conveniently my cube is a snug enough fit on the inside bit that it'll stand quite comfortably on the base without slipping off. I wanted to get it seperable so that I could use it to eat other minis =] I did make a bit of a mess of painting the inner piece, because I just couldn't figure it out well enough ^^; but it's going to be fairly rarely seen, so I don't mind too much. I used Tamiya's Green and Yellow clears, and an assortment of Citadel for the solid bits... Screaming Skull, White Scar, Fenrisian Grey, Steel Legion Drab, and another blue and red that I can't currently remember. The flagstones are painted with Standard Mechanicus Grey, Dawnstone, and Agrax Earthshade. I also used Tamiya's Shadow clear to add some extra depth. I was really surprised by how big the cube actually was ultimately, I had to order new bases for it to fit on xD
  14. So in my last Reaper order I ordered some big shiny stuff for other people, but for myself, I ordered a few translucent Bones, as I've had my eye on them for a long elf time. As I have the translucent dragon from Bones 3 eventually making its way to me, I decided to get some practice in too. So there was a thread around at one point about using Tamiya Clears on the translucent Bones minis, so I launched into painting mine with a similar approach =] I also got fed up with my SLR and its hatred of shooting indoors, so woke up its inbuilt flash and cobbled together the world's most slapdash flash diffuser, and was ultimately kinda pleased with the results. Annoyingly, a lot of photos are underexposed because they look fine on my camera, but the screen on that is weirdly bright and everything tends to be dark as all hell when moved onto my laptop. It is possible my laptop screen is funky, so I do apologise if the following image is now hugely overbright *facepalm* He's painted with Red and Shadow Tamiya clears, and then drybrushed very lightly with Citadel's Genestealer Purple, Khorne Red, and Evil Sunz Scarlet. His eyes are Evil Sunz =] I'm actually really quite proud of how he's come out.
  15. I used some of the suggestions on these forums to paint these. I first sprayed a clear matte sealer on (so the ink and paint will stick to the mini) then doused it in purple ink, then dry-brushed with 2 shades of pink (darker one and a lighter one) and then I hit them with a small amount of white. Still retains some of the translucent purple effect. Good for a Ghostbusters game.
  16. This is actually a mini that I painted at least a couple of years ago. I'd seen quite a few versions where people had painted just the hands and head and left the robes translucent, so I decided to do the opposite and paint the robe. I still painted the hands and skull with some Tamiya clear green, and gave them a quick highlight with white.
  17. I'm pretty happy with my Wall of Ice. The WIP is here. I tried doing the highlighting 2 different ways - I described it in the WIP - but I don't remember which is which anymore. I used a variety of inks - I'll have to get back about which ones exactly, I don't remember any more - to try and create some variety in the thickness of the ice, but it didn't work out so well. Edging was done with Reaper Ghost White. There's some happy accidents in there too where the brush slipped. If anyone's wondering, yes this is still see-through.
  18. With limited time to paint I needed to get an easy win, so I tackled the Large Fire Elemental a couple weeks ago and finished him up last weekend. I was hoping to make the face standout, but the details were messed up and to fix with paint at my skill level would have wasted the translucent properties of the Bones material. After prep I coated the mini with a layer of Tamyia clear yellow. Added saffron yellow to the dark crevises and pure black to the tips of the flames. The opaque paints left a stark change between their location and the untouched Translucent material, so I coated the whole thing with the Tamyia clear yellow again. This caused the differences to disappear. The base was made with a Happy Seppuku stamp, black primer, grey dry brushing, and yellow saffron drybrushing for the osl. Protected with spray clear coat and brushed matte sealer on the base. C&C welcome.
  19. For 2/5..my first attempt at painting blue, translucent water...it works for tabletop, I think, but not much beyond that.
  20. So I picked up a blister of the Walls of Fire from The Complete Strategist in NYC yesterday, and took a few minutes to wash, dry, and coat them with some Tamiya Clear Paint. I did one with Clear Red, 2 with Clear Yellow.... I am wondering how much I can 'shade and high light' with these clear paints. I am thinking of using some Smoke on the tips... Anyone try this? Pics: The middle one is the one done with Clear Red... Comments Welcome! 8) George
  21. Eww, yuck. These guys would be terrible to encounter in a dungeon. The primary colors come from unthinned inks applied with a heavy hand so they start to pool. Highlights were painted with normal colors. I used yellow ink for the right-hand one, and a mix of blue and yellow for the left (I don't have green ink). The bottom side of each is painted white, which is why they are so brightly colored. Then as a final touch, hit with a heavy coat of Citadel 'ardcoat.
  22. Here we have my finished 77310: Water Weird. The plinth was worked up from a base of Peacock Green to Pure White through a succession of glazes - I was playing around with how high I could take it and have it read as stained marble. The 'gems' I left translucent and coated with Tamiya Clear Blue. The runes were picked out in Vallejo Model Air Silver, then tarnished with Black Ink. The water weird itself is three different 'strengths' of Taimiya Clear Blue. The base coat was diluted 2:1 with Tamiya Thinner. I then hit the crevices on the figure with a 1:1 dilution, and finished off the face with undiluted Tamiya Clear Blue. I really like the variation in tone this gives the figure - it's much more subtle than just throwing undiluted Tamiya Clear paint on the figure, and reads a lot more like water to me than say the ice wall or crystal golem I've done previously. The 'crest' was worked up through LED Blue to Pure White, with a Black Wash to define it. I also tidied up a few 'whoopsies' with the 2:1 dilution of Tamiya Clear Blue. The teeth are Pure White again, with Black Wash to define, and the eyes are Pure White worked up to Clear Yellow. I also tried underlighting it with a LED light source to see how it'd potentially look if I mounted one permanently. It's not too bad - the Peacock Green base coat on the plinth comes through a little, and looks kinda eldritch. This, however, is closer to how it looks in person when underlit I think I should have tried to work the runes up from a blue to the silver, perhaps as if lit from the gem above them. But still, quite pleased with how this turned out.
  23. Edited now that I'm back home... I started this mini on Friday, and tried to do a centre-out light-to-dark translucent paint job. The Badger Freak Flex tints just beaded up in an initial coat - even when adding medium it didn't help. I had nothing to get the centre yellow without going opaque which I didn't want to do at this point. I then took my Napthol Crimson (Red) Liquitex ink and added a drop to some medium and that went on fine. I forgot that Burnt Umber is very orange, and if I'd done that first I could have tried to do something interesting with the shadows in red. Oops! Attempts to highlight with that didn't do much at all. I decided to do a few quick washes with a mix of DIoxazine Purple and Prussian Blue, and got some nice shadows from that. I also daubed the eyes with a bit of Blue Flame from the KS2 paints. The next morning I took an update photo and noticed the great directional light from the window (inspiration pics below). After that I scrapped what I was doing and decided to try and paint the highlights that I saw in the photo. I used FIreball Orange HD (29806) and Gilded Yellow HD (29845) up to Gilded Yellow /True White (1:1). I'm especially happy with how the back turned out - I think that's partly because the blue/purple shadows really pushed the contrast more. I also didn't want to do half the face in bright yellow... so I didn't. This mini photographs MUCH better than it looks in hand. If you can open 2 windows to compare side-by-side, it's recommended. Linked for nudity. Front http://tinypic.com/r/rj4279/8 Back http://tinypic.com/r/2ljpces/8 Inspiration photos Front http://tinypic.com/r/i71t79/8 Back http://tinypic.com/r/vo8im1/8
  24. My first mini from the Bones Kickstarter! I just had to do this guy. It did not photograph well, I'm afraid - a hazard of the translucent Bones. For what I did - I "primed" with Reaper Brush-on Sealer and painted the pedastal normally (sorry about the horrible mold line in pic 1, I barely noticed it when trimming.) Incidentally, I plugged the hollow in the base with some air-dry clay and glued it to a washer - this gives it some nice bottom weight. The idea behind the magical writing on the pedastal was that they were glowing blue - I decided to try and simulate this with a nice gradiation from blue to white. I don't think I quite accomplished "glowing," but I do like the look regardless. The Water Weird itself was washed with thinned blue Tamiya Clear. I then used a very thin pure white to glaze some of the high points and pick out details in the face. Some areas I darkened with more Tamiya Blue Clear. I then seal-coated with Pledge and painted the pedastal with more Reaper Brush on sealer to kill the gloss. I wanted to leave the elemental glossy - this also led to issues with the photos. As usual for me, the pictures are pretty darn big - feel free to click. Without further ado:
  25. I bought Tamiya clear yellow, green and orange and played around with the female bones fire elemental (77083) and the bones grave wraith (77097). The yellow/orange hardly shows at all on the red bones, but the green Tamiya clear turned out ok on the green wraith. Fire Elemental linked due to nudity: http://www.coolminiornot.com/369634?browseid=10757476 Edited to add SKU to tags.