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Found 5 results

  1. Perhaps I am not searching with good search terms, but I'm having trouble finding ways to deal with a figure breaking through a wall. I have some rough ideas and I'll be happy to document this as I go through it, but I was wondering if anyone knew of a tutorial or even finished pieces where a miniature was breaking through a wall. Mine will not be leading with a fist, it will be a full body and seeing how much debris I can make realistically expand outward on the other side. Currently I'm thinking a wooden wall, but may look at stone and wood as I go through this. Mainly I want the wood beam so I can slide a figure up and back to make it more dramatic... at least that's how it appears in my mind. Achieving that may be an entirely different experience.
  2. I decided that a wall would be a quick and easy way to break up some line of sight and make for a more interesting table for gaming (such as Frostgrave which my daughter and I are gearing up to play). Therefore, I took some Sculpey and worked the basic wall shape, then I put in rocks that were used decoratively on a potted plant and set them in as if they were the rocks from which the wall was made. The first picture shows my first cast of it next to the original piece. I have done 2 so far and got them painted today. I'll probably add an additional wash to the lighter areas as I only put a wash of black on the stones, but thought it would be too dark for the "mortar" areas. Hope you enjoy the wall!
  3. lexomatic

    Bones Wall of Ice 77312

    I'm pretty happy with my Wall of Ice. The WIP is here. I tried doing the highlighting 2 different ways - I described it in the WIP - but I don't remember which is which anymore. I used a variety of inks - I'll have to get back about which ones exactly, I don't remember any more - to try and create some variety in the thickness of the ice, but it didn't work out so well. Edging was done with Reaper Ghost White. There's some happy accidents in there too where the brush slipped. If anyone's wondering, yes this is still see-through.
  4. Citrine

    A bunch more Oathsworn Terrain

    To get a bunch of minis painted for the paint challenge, I finished 7 more pieces of terrain from Oathsworn Miniatures. Fun and easy low stress tabletop paint jobs for the win!
  5. For my birthday earlier this month my husband gave me various terrain pieces, including these resin pieces from Novus Design Studio. They are: 1019 - 28mm Fantasy Bridge; 1052 - 28mm Artillery Position; 1015 - 28mm Fantasy Wall Set; and 1079 - 15mm Stalingrad Red October Factory Ruin, or as I have been thinking of them: the bridge, the cul-de-sac, the walls, and the really cool even if it is a little small abandoned factory. I've never worked with resin before, and this has had something of a learning curve even for the priming. I scrubbed these things well with warm water and dish liquid, but wow, do they repel paint in parts. At first I mixed the paint with a little flow release, but that didn't work out too well. It still beaded up and the dried paint film was soft and susceptible to being picked up by a wet brush, suggesting a weak paint film later on. This is how they looked after a single coat of primer: The walls were mostly okay, with at least one wall having a ferociously paint-resistant top, even after double scrubbing with hot water and strong dish soap. Not even rubbing alcohol could break the beading and surface tension. So I switched tactics. I decided to mix my paint with a medium I have used previously when painting fiberglass sculpture, GAC 200 from Golden Paints which improves adhesion and reduces tack when dry. This is why I blinked when I first saw Reaper paints: The other thing I would do is keep a hair dryer blowing on the paint to dry it fast before it had a chance to bead up. This necessitated the sacrifice of a couple of brushes because they had to be used under warm blowing air. It also required a certain amount of juggling hands. But it seems to have worked, and the paint film is much stronger. This is how the pieces looked after the second coat of primer: And the third coat of primer. I had to stop using the camera's flash because they looked so white they only had a silhouette of the shape. In real life they do not look quite this opaque white: The factory I did last. It looks really cool, but all the detail is at the moment washed out by the white primer. I didn't remove all the flash and I think the hexagonal spaces in the ceiling supports were supposed to be cut out, but there's only so much work I have the spoons for in prep.
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