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Found 38 results

  1. Any ideas on a robot head?

    Hi guys, So I got a greater number of Infinity Aleph minis from a guy who doesn't find them fit to his playstyle. Anyway - I decided to create my own bases, opposite to the clean and attractive style of the Aleph minis using some kind of a long lost and ruined city. Like this: I also got Atalanta and her SpotBot and I think that this spotbot has quite a personality and I want to create his base accordingly. (Picture for reference) So I thought that it would be fitting to have some kind of robot head or so he could stare at. (Like to 2b in the picture below - but being a mechanical rabbit with sad eyes). So I thought about using a space marine head but I don't find it fitting to the whole setting and it would just disappear between the rubble and the debris I prepared for the base. And it wouldn't match the style of Infinity. On the other hand - I tried using a bandai mecha/gundam head and it is way too big for a 25mm base. Does anyone have an idea which could help me solve the problem?
  2. I'm not a war gamer even though my GW collection seems to keep growing. My local shop doesn't do any wargaming, it's basically a Magic the Gathering shop. In all honesty I was surprised they were hosting D&D Adventure League when I started playing there. Lately though after AL a bunch of us have been sticking around till close playing other games. Munchkin and Star Realms are pretty popular but we do get into other things from time to time. Those two just tend to be our go to games at the moment. Since I started painting I've been watching a lot of videos on the hobby and one of the channels I've been watching is Tabletop Minions. If you've ever been there you know they talk a lot about war gaming and skirmish games. Well today that lead me to a skirmish game called Song of Blades and Heroes. It looked like a lot of fun with a very small learning curve. Basically it looks like something I'll be able to convince my group to try. Recently I became a DM for our group so I already have enough miniatures to create multiple "groups/troops/bands"(not sure what the proper term is for this game). So really all they have to do is give it a try, there is zero buy in for them. Does anyone here play this game? Is it as easy to learn as I've been lead to believe? I picked up the gist of it pretty quickly but will players be able to pick this up on the fly? As skimish games go how does this one rate? I've already ordered the books, both the revised and the advanced editions so I'm in either way but I'm interested in seeing if anyone else plays this.
  3. My wife and I have been interested in playing in an actual campaign for some time now, we enjoy Adventure League but we want more. We'd like to roleplay more and not be switching between characters all the time. My wife played with a group for a little while and they are getting ready to start a new campaign and asked if we would be interested. We talked about it and decided to join the group. Our first session is on the second of the year, so there has been a lot of back and forth between the players and the DM already. During the initial talks my wife put us both down to play barbarians with myself playing a dwarf specifically. I even built it early so it would be done and ready. That was fine for a few days but then the DM "requested" we play anything other than ordinary Player's Handbook races and he's really pushing us to play monster races. So I went along with this and remade my character. Then the DM "requested" that if we played barbarians we shouldn't pick totem or besereker, the PH options. Okay, so I rebuild again. Now the "request" is that we advance to level five and pick some magical items. He wants us to have an uncommon and a rare with the stipulation that the rare item should be our defining item (like excalibur for King Arthur). This is all in addition to the usual of coming up with a backstory, which you need to do for any game anyway. At this point I've made my character three times and frankly now I don't even want to play him. I'll admit I play dwarves a lot and the same can be said for totem barbarians. I roll poorly so being able to recklessly attack helps a lot, and the damage reductions for bear totem barbarians are nice too. So I started out excited to play and had an idea for a fun character. Now I don't want to play what I've built, especially for a long campaign and at this point I'm a little leary of the DM. If this is how character creation has been I'm fairly sure I don't want to play in this game. Should I back out now and hope they find a replacement? Should I go and potentially end up backing out after a few sessions? I don't want to waste anyone's time or screw over my fellow players or DM. I just can't help feeling that this DM won't be my cup of tea.
  4. *BONK!* is here to answer your questions and give badmost excellent advice. Disclaimer: Not responsible for incidents, accidents, disability, dismemberments, bite marks, lumps on heads, death, random bits of cat fur or mummy wrappings, or monetary loss for following the advice of a mummified cat plush toy.
  5. Okay, so I am going to be painting up this guy soon: I'm curious about what colors to use for the snow on the snowman. It doesn't seem to be a pure white (which makes sense) but I couldn't tell really what colors were used. I know that blues and even really dark blues, are often used for shadows (I know that Nightmare Black is actually a favorite of at least one forumite), but its the "white" that has me unsure. Any ideas? (as for the base, I realize that there are a number of options for putting snow on the base). As always, thanks in advance for any help?
  6. Hello everyone, I could use an advice or more some thoughts on something I am working on. I've once again dived headlong right into a new project for someone else. The topic is a pulp style game that is set in an alternate time of the 40s and incorporates some kind of superold cults and stuff. Anyway - I've been task to create a faction consisting of an android species that was originally created by one of the fractions as some kind of statues and then came to life by being merged with a soul. But as metal is a obviously a really unfitting material to merge with souls, those machine lifeforms became something like lost souls. Not they are out for revenge and fight the other factions. I am currently thinking about the colour scheme. As for the bodies, I thought about using sisters of silence from the warhammer universe and equip them with swords, MG 42 and FG 42 light machine guns to make them fit into the whole scenario. As for the faces I wanted to use a more light colour and white hair. I mean - why should androids have got different hair colours? I'd like to have them have red glowing eyes. Like this: And I then I thought of using the YoRHa heavy armor of the NieR Automata franchise as color reference. This is a guild wars 2 mod that gets as close as possible. more picture here: GW Nier Automata Style Armor But now I thought ... maybe thats a bit too dark. I mean - rather dark weapons, dark clothes, dark armor, only a bit of light color on the head and the hair. I am not sure if I'd consider that fitting. I'd like to hear your opinions on that topic.
  7. Hi all, First time posting and first time painter. Just started painting recently, and while I'm waiting for my Reaper and KD:M minis to get here, I'm practicing on my The Others: 7 Sins ones. I've only painted 5 minis up until now (3 Age of Sigmar starters and 2 The Others), and have noticed the following difficulties: - proper placement of highlights - proper amount and placement of edge/extreme highlights - proper way of applying dry brush. Any tips are welcome. I'm using deerfoot (?) brushes for dry brushing, because regular ones were too flexible, and rhe other cheap ones I have are too rigid. Link to minis: https://goo.gl/photos/Arkd9kVm9XYeNrEF9
  8. Hey I'm attempting something crazy for Gen con this year, and I need a little help. I am doing a diorama for the MHE painting competition, and the title for the piece is kind of an important part of it. Is it common or acceptable to have the title engraved to put on the base? If not, what is a good way to make the title known? This is something I've never done before so any advice (including general diorama advice would be appreciated. I wasn't planning on doing a WIP, just puting the picture up in Show off after Gen con assuming I get it done in time.
  9. So hear is a loaded cannon for every one; How do you paint fabric to make it look realistic. I personally tend to build up many layers of highlights and shadows and that how I do fabric, I may free hand a designee on but that really about it. I've notice wile going threw some of last years winners for reaper con that some of the fabric was painted in a almost stippled effect and it look more like a hand stitched/hand made dress or tabard. I have been trying to replicate this with no avail what so ever and going back threw old work I seem to have gotten something close back when I was learning to paint and I have no idea what I did to get that textured look. Any advice out there on how to get this look?
  10. Brush Size

    Hello all, After watching many painting tutorials I have noticed that it seems like many more professional artists use somewhat larger sized sable/kolinsky brushes than what I expected. I am currently using a size 0 and a size 000, but it looks to me like people are using sizes 1 or 2 and they are able to maintain much finer points when painting. I am struggling to maintain a fine point while painting with both brushes and I was wondering if the larger brushes were better for that? Maybe I am just actually painting wrong? I am still learning a lot about paint consistency too so can that be a factor? Learning to paint with real hair brushes is much different than learning with synthetic ones. I may be the only one who thinks that, but to me, the brush just behaves differently. Thanks for your input!
  11. Gaming books are just like any other book - they have word count targets as well as page count targets and the people who write them tend to go over their allotment. This requires an editor to trim the fat. Unfortunately one of the first things to go under the knife in a core book is the game master advice portion of the book. As anyone that's read more than a few tabletop RPG books has noticed, there is always some system specific advice, but the general advice seems to be the same basic ideas, maybe presented slightly differently, but repeated over and over across the industry. Fortunately over the last couple of decades more and more books geared specifically for game masters have been published. For those GMs that want to up their game, whether it be plot, combat, handling NPCs, worldbuilding, or problem players there's advice out there for that. Not all of them give good advice and not all are worth picking up. This thread aims to be a resource, not just creating a list of books but also giving a bit of a review. The books listed here will not include core books unless someone finds one with unique advice. At this point my idea is to keep the list more general and avoid books that are majority system specific. You won't find the DMG listed here, but you might find a DMG II. After all, that's where the advice that got cut out of the first one ends up. Title: Cityscape Authors: Ari Marmell & C.A. Suleiman System: 3.5E d20 (w/ a lot of more generally applicable sections) Publisher: WOTC (2006) ISBN: 978-0-7869-3939-8 In Print: No Title: GM Essentials Book 1: NPC Essentials Authors: Johnn Four System: Nominally 3.5E d20, but only one chapter is really tied to that system (a mini-adventure) Publisher: RPGObjects (2003) ISBN: 978-0-7869-3939-8 In Print: No (?) Might be available electronically from Role Playing Tips (Johnn's Blog) Title: Hamlet's Hit Points Author: Robin D. Laws System: None Publisher: Gameplaywright (2010) ISBN: 978-0-9818840-2-8 In Print: Yes Title: Heroes of Battle Author: David Noonan, Will McDermott, Stephen Schubert System: 3E (but applicable to other systems) Publisher: WOTC (2005) ISBN: 0-7869-3686-X In Print: No Title: Kobold Guide to Worldbuilding Author: Wolfgang Bauer, Michael Stackpole, Keith Baker, Monte Cook, and others System: None (fantasy-oriented) Publisher: Kobold Press (2012) ISBN: 978-1936781119 In Print: Yes Title: A Mighty Fortress Author: System: 2E d20 (but it is also a historical reference) Publisher: TSR (1992) ISBN: 1-56076-372-8 In Print: No, but .pdf Title: Play Dirty Author: John Wick System: None Publisher: John Wick (2015) ISBN: 978-0990547853 In Print: Yes Title: Play Dirty 2 Author: John Wick System: None Publisher: John Wick (2015) ISBN: 978-0990547860 In Print: Yes Title: Robin's Laws of Good Game Mastering Author: Robin D. Laws System: None Publisher: Steve Jackson Games (2002) ISBN: 1-55634-629-8 In Print: Not last I checked, but you can track down a .pdf
  12. Painting Blonde

    Hi Everyone! I'm wondering if one can achieve a reasonable blonde from the Chestnut Gold through Buckskin Pale triad. This is the most yellow/brown paint I have and from what I was able to discern from Google...blonde needs an undertone of brown...so yeah...will this work?
  13. Open call for opinions! My trusty Badger Crescendo 175 airbrush of many, many years failed this weekend. It stopped spraying and started blowing paint back through the trigger. A complete disassembly revealed the problem -- the nylon bushing for the needle had somehow come loose and slipped forward into the paint mixing chamber. Further, I can't for the life of me get that darned bushing back out of what is an essentially sealed pocket. I checked the Badger website, and the bushing is a manufacturer-serviceable part only. So shipping to there, and $12 return shipping enclosed, plus the cost of any replacement parts. I'm seriously considering just getting an new airbrush instead. So, anyone have experience w/Badger service/repair? Failing that, what recommendations do you have for a replacement airbrush? Go with the same again, or switch? So you know, I've also used a Paasche VL airbrush for a while before and found it -- fiddly at best and a frustration at worst, compared to the Badger. It's in pieces in my airbrush supplies box, and also in need of a new needle bushing (at $10 apiece). I prefer double-action airbrushes, and I'm considering a switch to a gravity-feed, rather than a siphon-feed. And... Begin!
  14. I am in a bit of a pickle. I've searched around and tried looking at a few threads but I'd like to post my mini and get some concrete advice on how to proceed. I've thought about just spraying it white again, and keep it with the ghostly green all over, but I'd kind of like some additional detail, and thought the dress was great as blue,. It's the rest that don't want to work. Especially the hair and white threads: Any opinion is valid here. I just mainly need advice on what might work in regards to colour combinations. And maybe some advice on how to shade the white parts properly. Although I think I'll go with a creamy wash?
  15. Green Resin

    I just acquired a mini from Hasslefree Miniatures that was cast in green resin. Does this material need to be primed before painting, or should I just clean it and go to?
  16. Hey all, After sealing my Eregris Darkfathom tonight and reflecting on the experience of painting him, I discovered a few issues with my approach that I would really like to rectify before the next detail heavy mini (read: mini that I spend way too many hours on ). For the glove fringes and the tassles hanging from the pauldrons, I wanted a wash to create depth. However, the actual topography of these features is very shallow, so I had to let the wash sit there pretty heavily basically until it dried naturally (some areas I'll remove pooled wash with a clean brush if it's too much) in order to take hold in the cracks so to speak. The result was pretty much staining the whole area rather than just the little nooks I was shooting for. TL;DR - What are some preferred methods for creating depth or separation in very small areas where a wash won't sink into the desired areas without staining the foreground?
  17. Hello, I used to paint Games Workshop miniatures when I was a kid, but was put off for many years by the price. Having found out about Reaper recently I decided to get back into it. I picked up the Learn to Paint Kit, a few extra Reaper miniatures and some extra paints/brushes. The valkyrie I have attached was my first attempt after a long break, and now I am getting onto the mouslings. I am having some difficulties though. I would love to hear any feedback on these difficulties I list or any other criticism or advice. With the valkyrie there are some parts I am quite happy with. Her right eye was never great, and has got messed up a bit somehow (I am dreading fixing it, maybe I should get some greenstuff and fashion an eyepatch?). Also her face has a kind of chalky look to it that I don't know how to avoid. I didn't have any gold paint, so I tried to do her armor as leather with metal features. On the chest that seems to have gone quite badly. For the hair I think it could do with more "depth" but I am having trouble working out how to achieve that. Her base I am actually quite happy with (in contrast to the other miniatures). As cliched as it is, I was going for an "evil albino" look with the mousling assassin. Having looked again at the stock photo in the store I may try to put some of the caucasian flesh colour I have on his nose. I had tried mixing up a pink before but it looked way too "valentines day". His eyes are also looking pretty flat, and I'm also having some trouble making his fur look "furry". The bases on these mouslings (and some other miniatures I have) have been a real challenge to get looking right. Recently I have been trying basecoating with shadowed stone, washing with brown liner, and highlighting with leather brown, but whatever I do I can't get it where I'm happy with it. I decided to do the druid more as a wizard (I bought a trio of reds for a dragon I am holding off on painting so I want to use those). I have had issues painting the orb in his staff (I want it to have some sort of blue mystical look). I was having problems with the colour of the staff or the orb flowing into the crevice between them and looking bad, so I did a sort of outline with diluted brown liner and now plan to paint the orb "up to" the edge without the paint flowing into it. I am happy with his eyes, but his fur is also a struggle. I was going for "black mouse" though I then switched to "dark grey mouse" so I could try to get some shading in. The thief and beekeeper I am really just basecoating for now (I include them here so I can follow up with them later). I had some trouble with the pale saffron yellow being weird, but I think it just required far more shaking than I was giving it. Thank you for reading.
  18. Felt Making

    Alright so, I try to get 2 new hobbies a year. And I would like to try felting. So any of ya'll into felting if so advice? Or tips and tricks hopefully. I should have the stuff for it by next Wednesday
  19. Grenadier 5002 - "S" Demon

    I'm painting an oldie but a goodie, the Demon from grenadier 5002. I havent found any finished paint jobs of this that impressed, if anyone has one I'd love to see it. I decided to use the cover of the box (screenshot included)as inspiration and try blending, washes, and highlights. I would NMM his sword but I can't figure out how to shade a surface with this many angles yet, so I went with the flame idea. His offhand should be holding a whip, but I decided it was another chance to work on blending and it looks better than a brown leather whip there. Process and paints on the blending Primed with citadel black Blending: Made a 4:4:1 wash of vallejo retarder medium/water/citadel khorne red (this looks to me like skim milk) Used this wash very lightly probably 8 - 10 times on the top of wings, stroking from the bottom to top (I thought this was probably the best blend work on this mini?) Repeated this process for the sword using citadel khorne red, troll slayer orange, flash glitz yellow, and vallejo white grey, reverse for the whip. I painted the green with citadel kharloc green, highlighted it with citadel warboss green. The fur I painted with khorne red and troll slayer blended, then dry brushed with troll slayer. The sword handle I dry brushed with Citadel chainmail I liberally washed the entire figure except the sword with citadel nuln oil. Questions that I ran into so far: How do I darken or lighten a red? If I add black it turns purple, If I add white it turns into pink. How do I darken an orange? Similar problems. Is washing with black the right idea? When I bought paints at the FLGS here in the bay area, it was suggested that I buy agrax earthshade, which is brown. I've also found some devlan mud because everyone online seems to rave about it. Also brown...What gives? How do you NMM a horizontal curved surface like this sword? Is this a technique that could be applied to a sword blended like this to add to the effect? Please your C&C is welcome.
  20. 60005 Arael, Half Elf Cleric

    I painted this for use as a magus in my home pathfinder game, looking for advice on painting as I'm just getting started. TIA for any feedback.
  21. Orginized Play

    So, I'm heading to Connecticon next month; a multi-genre convention about 30 minutes from home. While there I plan on getting some gaming in, most likely some Pathfinder Society and some of the 5th edition Adventure League. I have never actually played either one of these games in a con setting. I've downloaded and read the player guides for each and have a general grasp of the rules: Make a character, join a level appropriate game and have fun. Beyond that I'm not sure. Does anyone have any advice for a first timer? Anything in particular to avoid? Recommended classes, factions, and so forth?
  22. A letter to the past

    Hello, If you could send a letter to yourself at the time that you took up painting miniatures what would be the three advices/tips that you would give him/her?
  23. So I've been given some hard plastic models, styrene, I think. They come in grey hard plastic and mostly on rectangular sprues anyway. One is Malifaux's "Whiskey Golem" (or, as my husband said, a wooden steampunk robot), one is Perry Miniatures "Medieval Cottage 1300-1700," and one is a set of Pegasus Hobbies "Gothic City Building Small Set #1." The Gothic Building set snaps together but the makers recommend glue for some delicate parts. The other two must be glued. Can I ask what glues people recommend for this sort of model? I gather there is some sort of special plastic solvent glue for plastic models, but I haven't really played around with it. My children used superglue on their Games Workshop plastic armies because, apart from that one incident of setting the cotton opera glove on fire, they could safely use it. What I have at the moment are several types of superglue and epoxy. Looking at the cottage, I am concerned about whether the model will hold together. It's basically just flat walls glued together at the edges. The structural engineer in me itches to put interior corner reinforcement and braces inside. Is this overkill? Will the proper glue help its integrity? I also note that two of the kits contain nothing in the way of assembly diagrams or instuctions. Should I take this as a given in hard plastic models and treat them as a sort of IQ test?
  24. I was painting a Bones stone golem for a game, and I attempted to give it a kind of tree bark looking texture or some kind of wood texture because... frankly they didn't have the miniature I was looking for in stock. My first thought was to attempt to make it look like muscle, but painting it in wood colors to make it look organic kind of like Groot. Though I scrapped that and tried a generic bark texture. Now it looks more like rust on iron in my opinion, so i finished it for now. What would you have done to attempt to make this guy look more 'wooden'.
  25. 1. Does anyone have a link or a picture of how the tree branch is supposed to be installed on Verocithrax? 2. What kind of glue is best for gluing dragons together, specifically the wings? I use super glue usually, but those wings look big and heavy. Not sure if thats's going to cut it. 3. Will the dragons droop over time due to the weight of the wings? I have the Bones Griffin, and I can't be positive, but i think he's starting to droop over from the weight of his wings. Thanks for your time.
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