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Found 53 results

  1. Was asked by mods to start this Air Brush thread to be pinned and I'll keep it up to date with links/tutorials as we go along. Keep the chatter/off topic to a minimum please. Feel free to add links/websites/tutorials/videos/books/articles in this thread and I'll compile them here in the first thread post (just no commerce links per Forum rules). Here we go! Forum Threads: Airbrush Compendium Airbrush Masks Airbrush for Hubby Care & Feeding for Airbrush My Next & Last Airbrush Airbrush Assistance Airbrush & Paint Question Airbrush Cleaning and Advice Airbrush Newb Help Help Setting up First Airbrush Cheap Airbrush and Cheap Paints Learning to use Airbrush To Brush with the Air Airbrush Equipment & Recommendations Airbrush & Thinning Reaper Paints Website Tutorials: Airbrush Cleaning Tutorial from Massive Voodoo Video Tutorials: Awesome Paintjob Awakened Realms Kostasii Miniatures Airbrush Troubleshooting Books/Magazines: Painting Miniatures From A to Z: Masterclass Volume 1, By: Angel Giraldez (linked image) This book provides pictures of step by step of Airbrush and brush painting. Not as through as some other airbrush books, but still good.
  2. As my first airbrush attempt on the Roman centurio was halted by the fact that the figure is so small, I decided to use a different figure, which would be ... bigger. So in Japan I got me a number of garage kits. One of them was a figure of a nun or mage (I don't know the figure, so I have no idea) and as it was some kind of a miscast or so, I got it for the cheap price of around 6 Euro. She's big enough to do some airbrush work. And as I want to train airbrushing, I don't want to ruin my first attempt by choosing wrong colours or too difficult painting concepts. Therefore: YOU CAN CHOOSE THE COLOURS! NO! I really mean it! Gimme some colours, people. Oh, yeah - That's the figure:
  3. So today when I started airbrushing, I noticed that after I sprayed a bit the pressure on the tank was dropping, which made it difficult to get an even coverage. I'd start at around 15psi, and it would hold for a couple seconds, then drop steadily until it was down at 5psi. Turning up the pressure did not help, it still dropped psi. I took out the needle and checked and cleaned it and the rest of the ab, then tried just shooting air through, without needle or anything but the nozzle lever. Same result. Seals are airtight at least until I start shooting air through. I have a Paasche TG-3F, bought it with the compressor in a package deal, compressor has a humidity filter on it. EDIT: Just noticed that while air is going through the airbrush, adjusting the pressure does nothing at all. I can turn it up or down and it stays at 5psi. Unless I reduce the pressure below 5psi, then it goes down. Adjusting the pressure when I release the airbrush changes psi normally.
  4. Hey all! My DDS 2 came in the mail today, and I pulled out the tower to look at it. Boy does that stuff feel weird to an guy who has pretty much only done metal, with some resin here and there! So, what kind of Glue does one use to assemble the tower???? I read Wren's post that super glue was best, but this material makes me wonder... Is this most people's experience? Also, do most folks base the whole this as a piece, or leave them separate? Thanks in advance! 8) George
  5. Because I apparently suffer from extreme ADHD when it comes to miniature painting... squirrel!! Ahem, the following are in various stages of WIP. Everything on the blob and rat has been applied by airbrush and mostly inks and washes to this point. The Abominataur has had some brushwork done since and is nearing completion. Tried something I picked up from a French Youtuber Hutif who mixes some satin varnish in with her inks when she sprays them. Will be doing a comparison on some different models at some point to see if it's actually doing anything but it seems to be helping the ink settle into the recesses better. Applying inks/washes through the airbrush has also been neat as you spray at such a low pressure that you can get really precise. If nothing else, it was great practice. These are not meant to be works of art, just messing around and hoping to get them on the table with 3 or so hours of work each. So far, the minotaur is the farthest along has had about 2 hours total. Thanks for looking.
  6. ThirstyBob

    Great Cthulhu

    Finished Cthulhu on Saturday, I think I'm learning to overcome my fear of highlighting too far, I still didn't go as light as people said I should. Some say you can go practically to white, but I am very hesitant to try that. I think I've made progress though. C&C welcome! Soft Lighting--- Harsh Lighting, to show detail---- And WIP thread if anyone is interested...
  7. ThirstyBob

    Great Cthulhu

    Got my start on Cthulhu last week. Did a prime in black, then zenithal pre-shade white from above. Purple from below, then green from above. Liking the effect so far, think I'm done with the airbrush, gonna move on to regular painting.
  8. ThirstyBob

    Help with airbrushing?

    Hey guys. I'm back after having my wisdom teeth removed :/ nasty surgery had to have some recovery. But I started painting again and I was wondering; am I getting speckling here? It used to be really bad but I diluted down a touch and I think it's better. Could use some help.
  9. So people have been talking about airbrushing again, and since being on the hangout, I was wondering if anyone would be interested in a live tutorial? I did some research with the help of the First Lady Thing & and the Forum Mascot, and it seems that the noise levels of needed equipment is low enough to not bother my household, or overpower the audio of the hangouts. (I can airbrush inside due to my airbrush station...) If people were interested, I would try to schedule it for a Friday or Saturday night, around 9pm EST. I would start with the basics, this is an airbrush, these are the parts of an airbrush. This is how I mix paint How I spray the paint How I control the spray of paint HOW I CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH Etc etc etc I think that people might be less intimidated by airbrushes if they could see something done live, and be able to ask questions. .. Disclaimer! I am NOT an expert, but would be more than willing to impart my meager knowledge... Maybe some experts could show us things as well. .. So chime in if you are interested! George Link for class, 7/1/2016: https://hangouts.google.com/hangouts/_/ldkk52klardgzouzdquzheyj7ye?hl=en&authuser=0 Class is over for 6/24/2016 Class is over for 7/1/2016 People are still hanging out as of 11pm est..... ***Wondering If anyone would be interested in my reprising this?***
  10. Painting Dog

    Airbrush Paint Finish Woes

    I picked up a Badger Patriot airbrush at the last ReaperCon, mostly with the thought of how it would help when priming / basecoating the big Bones models. While I've done quite a bit of successful priming with it (big and small), I got brave today and tried out basecoating my first big piece. Bleh. I ended up with a very grainy surface, unlike in my previous efforts, and am now looking at Simple Greening the whole model to start over. I know it must have something to do with the thinness of the paint, or my distance from the model, or something -- I just have no clue what it is I did wrong. Help?
  11. I graduated to the next level of painting obsession and picked up a Badger Patriot 105 airbrush at ReaperCon. Yay me! I've already primed a handful of minis, just as part of getting a feel for the brush. But it occurred to me -- can you use an airbrush to spray on sealers? I usually give minis (especially ones for tabletop) a coat or two of gloss varnish, then hit them with Tester's Dullcote to take out the shine. I was wondering if I could substitute sprayed on Reaper Brush-on Sealer for the Dullcote step. If so, would I thin it? Or just use it as is? Enquiring minds want to know!
  12. rollcast

    Goremaw . . . in SPACE!

    I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality. What I learned... Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors. After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly. First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do. Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage. My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough. Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest. For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.
  13. We are doing a video tutorial series on how we have been painting figures. The past couple years we have been working out a way for those who are inept (like me) and those who are adept (like Christie) to be able to paint figures fast, and well enough that they look good in person and in a photo. We have made substantial progress incorporating and modifying techniques we have learned from others (many on these forums, classes at reaper-con, etc.) Here is out latest video, step two of our pre-shading process. Feedback and questions always welcome!
  14. So, Our own Wizard most Wild mentioned getting this stuff and finding that it worked for him, so I ordered a bottle of it, as I do a little airbrushing from time to time.... I spent 2 hours or so looking at videos on youtube about how this stuff is used, and decided that the Wolf Demon (77307), that I used for the Hangout Airbrush tutorials last year, would be a good test subject for it, as I was not going to jump straight onto Nathvarr... The first recommendation I followed was to spray the model with Glosscote, to protect the paint underneath. I then, again following a tutorial, I daubed the stuff on with a semi junk brush, and let it dry, I then did another coat, and this is what it looked like after it dried... (Taken at the end of my paint session last night) so tonight will see if it works.... ALSO, in one of the tutorials, the artist was coating his W&N SERIES 7 (!) brush with brush soap before painting this stuff on.... The brush I used was one that I liked to use for painting bases and such, and it is pretty much trash by now, even after rinsing often and an overnight soak in W&N Brush Cleaner & Restorer... RIP>>>>
  15. I need help. I bought an airbrush - Badger Patriot 105. Bought an appropriate compressor, inline moisture trap, paint, cleaning supplies, etc. I set up a dedicated area to use it and contain any over-spray. But there it sits. Unused. Not for a lack of want. But I've certainly been avoiding it. I watch videos, but the more I watch the more I get psyched out. I know I just need to pick it up and put some paint through it, but I can't figure out how to break though. Advice would be appreciated.
  16. Sieutom

    77006: Great Worm

    Hi everyone, Here is a piece i could almost done completely by airbrush, thanks to the overall simplicity of design and that will bring terror to our Frostgrave games from now on :)
  17. Dilvish the Deliverer

    Dragons Don't Share Tower Top

    So, at ReaperCon '16 there were some individual pieces of DDS 2 terrain available for purchase. I didn't hear about it until toward the end of the con, so picking were slim. I picked up this piece of the tower. My plan was to paint it up as more terrain for Frostgrave and any other game I could shoehorn it into. I also used it to test out color schemes for my DDS 2 set as I haven't painted it yet; mostly because I've been too lazy to boil the pieces. I also decided to use this piece to practice airbrushing. I've owned a Badger Krome for a couple of years now, but never did much with it. So this entire piece is air brushed. I may go back in and give it a wash for some more depth, but the picture make it look flatter than it really is.
  18. Adam Savage visits a Weta Workshop Model painter who discusses his craft: https://youtu.be/tnBa-3d-70c
  19. Open call for opinions! My trusty Badger Crescendo 175 airbrush of many, many years failed this weekend. It stopped spraying and started blowing paint back through the trigger. A complete disassembly revealed the problem -- the nylon bushing for the needle had somehow come loose and slipped forward into the paint mixing chamber. Further, I can't for the life of me get that darned bushing back out of what is an essentially sealed pocket. I checked the Badger website, and the bushing is a manufacturer-serviceable part only. So shipping to there, and $12 return shipping enclosed, plus the cost of any replacement parts. I'm seriously considering just getting an new airbrush instead. So, anyone have experience w/Badger service/repair? Failing that, what recommendations do you have for a replacement airbrush? Go with the same again, or switch? So you know, I've also used a Paasche VL airbrush for a while before and found it -- fiddly at best and a frustration at worst, compared to the Badger. It's in pieces in my airbrush supplies box, and also in need of a new needle bushing (at $10 apiece). I prefer double-action airbrushes, and I'm considering a switch to a gravity-feed, rather than a siphon-feed. And... Begin!
  20. Hey folks! A newcomer to the forums just made a comment that they did not know what Dullcote was, so after explaining what it was and adding a pic of the can, I thought I would add a link to a discussion on sealers.... Imagine my surprise when I searched the pinned resources to find nothing listed! Now a search of this forum gave me many hits to a lot of different threads, but they were all about a problem, or people asking questions or something other. So I decided to start a thread talking about Sealers. Now I use Dullcote Spray Lacquer from Testors, and have been using it for over 30 years. I am not liable to change any time soon... I like the nice flat coat that it always gives me when I use it. It does have it's drawbacks though. It can hide?, remove?, blur?, your subtle high lights. (Not sure what the right word is, but your high lights can disappear. This has only happened to me once, when I was painting my Behir, and I was not a happy camper. Went back and did them again a little stronger, and didn't have the problem again... Spray sealers can 'Frost' if they are sprayed on in areas of high humidity. This will make you tear your hair out, as your wonderful paint job now looks like it has been out in the cold over night.... I have fixed this at last once by re spraying in a non humid environment, but not something I want to experience again.... When I need to put Decals, or water slide transfers as they are sometimes known, I will use Glosscote on the model before doing the decaling. The reason for this is that the Gloss finish is much smoother, making the decal fit to the model better. (there are other things that I do as well, but this isn't about decaling) I have read that some folks will Glosscote, then Dullcote their gaming pieces, as the Glosscote offers better protection, and the Dullcote takes the shine back off... The only difference in the cans is the cap of the Glosscote is clear, while the Dullcote looks frosted, so I have started writting on the cans with a sharpie so that I am sure which is which. I have some 30 year old Polly S Flat Finish brush on sealer, as well as Testors Aztek Clear Matte Airbrush sealer, but I have used neither as of now... I also have a pot of GW 'Ardcote, that I bought not knowing it is nothing more than a clear gloss sealer. I have used this on gems or critter tongues, things I want shiny, but as it gets applied to my minis after Dullcote, I don't know how it would react to paint. I know that our hosts Reaper make a brush on sealer, but I have no experience with it... So chime in folks with your experiences and brands of sealers that you use! George
  21. Started working on my first Bones dragon project today (it's been a busy December, so a little free time for painting is sort of a Christmas present). This is the first time I've tried doing any shading or gradient sort of thing with an airbrush, mostly in the past I've just used it for priming, base coats and varnish. It's a little patchy in spots but I'm pretty happy with the overall result and it went on quick. Vallejo black primer with Reaper Ruddy Leather/Oiled Leather/Burnt Orange triad on the wings. I'll do the rest with a paintbrush, but it was a nice start.
  22. I have seen folks talking about Badger airbrush primer, and speaking highly of it, but the local Michael's doesn't have Badger paints.... I saw that they had a 2 oz bottle of Testor's Aztek Clear Matte, picked it up for about $5... The bottle has an agitator in it!!! Can hear it rattling around when I shake it... Has anyone used this stuff? Either as an airbrush sealer, Brush on sealer, or as a matte medium? Seems to be my night for asking this type of question.... Thanks George
  23. I'll be getting an airbrush as a Christmas present this year. Woot! I wanted to thank people on this forum for all the tips they have posted around using airbrushes. I haven't watched any of the videos yet but the links in the Airbrush Compendium thread were very helpful! I did have a couple of questions though. Can you use a primer with an airbrush? If so, any particular recommended primer brand and do I need to thin the primer? How much should the primer be thinned - similar to normal paint ie milk like consistency? Also, what should I be thinning the primer with? Can you use a sealer with an airbrush? If so, same questions as above - any particular brand? Do I need to thin the sealer? etc
  24. Just watched a 6 minute tutorial where the painter used an airbrush to paint the bones kobold pack. It is a Tabletop paint job, but there is some stuff here for beginners with an airbrush to see how one can be used in doing minis... George
  25. Hi folks! Recent post about reviving a Paasche airbrush remembered me I have taken the desition to buy a third airbrush even if the wife does not approve I have two Sparmax airbrushes (basically Iwata clones) with all the hardware, basically I am using a dual-action gravity feed 0.35mm needle airbrush, and loving it. But I feel the trigger is a bit rough, and seriously want to drop some money into my next, and last, airbrush. I am eyeing the Paasche Talon TG-3F, among others... I would love an airbrush able to do small, detail work (my control is pretty fine right now but the rough trigger and 0.35mm needle are starting to be a limiter, I think). There is a pretty nice airbrush store in Buenos Aires, their prices double the american dollar amount, but well... So, those of you friends who are already experienced, if you could afford any airbrush in the world, what would you get? And why? And if it was an airbrush of no more than 200-250 USD? (That would probably be around the 600USD mark here btw).
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