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Found 34 results

  1. Has anyone seen the textured rollers made by the company Green Stuff World? Came across them when I was buying some items to make bases. Bought a few of them, but now I have seen how simple and quick it is to make bases am thinking I will buy the others when I am a little more financial. Tonight pumped out 16 bases using the planks for rebasing some of the Rum & Bones stuff I am about to paint. Anyhoo thought I'd share the before and after pics. Did a quick paint up of them to see how they would turn out. Just bases coat, washes and bit of drybrushing. First one is meant to be frozen, but I thought it would work really well as lava.
  2. Hay there haven't posted in a wile, my store is under renovation so I haven't been able to work on stuff lately. I was working on a half orc anti paladin but unfortunately I guess I didn't mix the epoxy correctly when I was gluing the figure together and half way threw painting her she fell apart. So instead I was able to finish this first and wanted to share it. This is the 60059 Harrower, in my mind she is standing at the edge of a cliff channeling magic getting ready to attack what ever is below her. I wanted to try something different with the magic effect so I tried we blending colored washes into different metallic colors and I like the result I got, I then decided to go with a some what anime style theme to the rest of the figures paint scheme. I have included both 2 work in progress photos as well as 2 taken after final assembly. I have no idea why the two final assembly photos are so dark, but the color in the work in progress is much closer to what it actually looks like in person. As always feed back is welcome, please keep in mind I don't normally paint small detail like what I did on the cards and I am working to improve my line size and consistency. As always I post stuff like this and more on my FB page if you would like to follow it I would greatly appreciate it. www.facebook.com/TabletopGlory
  3. Decided to start a project based on a piece Knarthex gave me at Paint Day last Saturday. It was a neat piece of white marble in the shape of a hexagon that was intended to be used for floor tiles. One side of the hex is glued to string webbing that would keep a sheet of them together and spaced correctly. So, I put the smooth side down and cleaned the back webbing off the edges and contemplated the piece and what minis I have waiting for bases. I chose the P-65 Heavy Metal Young Swamp Dragon I've been saving since Reaper cleared out their lead for Bones. So, I decided to apply little plastic squares as tile work. I left the alignment rough as I will rough em up and age them. The web backing will keep the basing materials secured to the smooth marble. Here's a pic... Next, drying glue and sawing lead.
  4. Hey, another WIP I'll start then most likely ignore for months. I finished Platypod, or so I thought. Then I took pictures and decided, nope. Needs more blending and highlights. See Frumitty and Shoamita to follow I've had quite a few questions about how I created the river on my spring exchange's base. I'll do my best to take their base from start to finish including all my mistakes (cause I'll make them) and how I fixed them. Pictures of the base concept to follow Comments, questions, suggestions always welcome.
  5. This is what happens when I get an idea stuck in my head that I have to get out before I can do anything else. It's obviously (I hope its obvious) a WIP as I need to get some earth to pack around the skull before I can move on to paint it. I also came up with a bit of background for it. Yes, all over the top for just the base for a moday for no apparent reason other than it was bouncing around in my head. The Vishnakov Anomaly The man before Kommander Zerkova resembled a Greylord no more than she resembled a fairytale princess, but be that as it may, he was…no, he once was a member of the Greylord Covenant, though a minor one at that. He was completely unremarkable in appearance, of average height, with brown hair and eyes, and she had read his file, nothing remarkable there either. He only resembled a homeless madman now, with his wild eyes, ragged and bloodied clothes. The only thing visible that he possessed was what appeared to be a student’s grammar book, from what little she could see of the cover, which he held in a deathgrip, clutched to his chest. Using her special eye, she saw a familiar glow about the book, which radiated down into his hand and into his body. Her scouts had stumbled across him lying in a ditch alongside the road they were traveling. The scout that had first touched him was now dead of a wasting disease that caused all the blood in his body to run out through his eyes and run along the ground and flow up the once Greylord’s body and into his eyes. The second scout was about the run back to camp when Antonin Vishnakov called out that he was here to see Kommander Zerkova and he could lead the way or tell him after he was dead. In truth, she felt no real fear of him as she was shielded against many kinds of magic, but her two bodyguards seemed to give the man pause and he stopped just inside the door’s entryway. He spoke in very precise words, as though he did not want to be misunderstood. “I have come very far to tell you that the anomaly should be left alone or we will all be forced to feed on each other’s blood.†At which he raised the grammar book as in a small salute and tossed it carefully about a third of the way into the room. Then he began to quiver as someone who’s trying to quietly laugh at a friend’s joke in a crowded room. He then violently slapped a hand over one eye and then the other as his body shook in a violent spasm. His mouth opened, but only the sound of gurgling issued forth, as though the last bit of water down a drain, and then he collapsed face first into the room, his hands never moving from in front of his eyes. The autopsy later revealed that his eyes had grown to twice their size, bloated with blood. Very little blood remained in his body otherwise. The book had taken time to disarm and unlock. By the time the book was free, Antonin Vishnakov’s file had appeared on her desk. Even with them both and some well spent coin, it still took the better part of two months to find the site of the former greylord’s camp, or what was left of it. It took month’s more careful work before they discovered what had now been deemed The Vishnakov Anomaly. The Anomaly could only be safely reached through the eyes and body of a warjack. Regular steamjacks tended to seize up or have untimely breakdowns anywhere near the Anomaly. The only activity from the Anomaly was random glowing that shown with no rhyme or reason that she’d been able to decipher so far. She’d had to requisition a specialty warjack to uncover as much of the Anomaly as she had. Lately, unconfirmed reports of Cryxian troops had grown more frequent. She knew she was running out of time to discover its secrets before she had to attempt to destroy the Anomaly or have it fall to Cryx. I apologize in advance for the quality of the videos (which I apparently can't upload, so I've linked to them instead). Here are the pictures though. Video without overhead lights - https://youtu.be/nRiHPQHc7KI Video with overhead lights - https://youtu.be/584Kcig89N0
  6. Hey everyone, This is a work in progress for a finished piece. I finished her yesterday but couldn't post the work in progress, because it was a valentine gift for my girlfriend and she sometimes roams the forums too. She picked this model a while back when I was ordering and told me right from the start she wanted something golden green. I painted the dryad gold green and was my first real blending on a miniature that small. It turned out pretty well although my shaking hands still bother my painting skills at times. I mixed the green gold with VMC golden olive, VGC yellow olive, VGC glorious gold, VGC polished gold, some glaze medium and water. I started with the yellow olive and glorious gold and mixed in a tiny bit of golden olive for each succesive layer. The last few layer I used the polished gold instead of the glorious gold. http://myalbum.com/photo/1phxrsBjHpuj_RuEoEm/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/Vv8pv02XrOL6/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/tmHEN1RjJgLG/1k0.jpg For the tree I used VGC charred brown, VMC flat brown and VMC flat earth for the highlights. I used the same colors on the sculpted tree. Her hair was basecoated VGC royal purple, followed by VGC hexed lichen and last VGC warlord purple. same three colors were used for the fingernails and lips. The tree was made with some twisted floristwire and greenstuff. The base was made with supersculpey and when baked painted with a few different browns and some sand colors for the creek bed.. Once dry I first glued on some very fine sand, the white/silver kind used for birdcages. I glued in some small stones and when everything was dry i drybrushed teh stones and painted the sand in the creek bed. Then I glued on a mix of lots of different kinds flock and static grass and some noch foliage leaves too. I have a lot of different lengths of static grass and made some reed/grass bundles by putting some woodglue on my fingertips and rolling a tiny bit of the different lengths of static grass between my fingers. I drilled small holes in teh base and glued the bundles in place. When everything was dry I used thinned woodglue to seal between the creekbed and the plastic rim I made from a plastic juicebottle to get ready for pooring the Vallejo still water.. That stuff sucks bad.. But it was all I had at the time so I went with it. It is horrible stuff, its pretty easy to use, but when it dries it shrinks and it shrinks bad.. About 20% is my guess, so when dry you get this concave watermass.. I poored 3 layers total to get it sort of level. In the end it looks fine but it is a lot of extra work. As a final touch I used some Aquatec Gloss gel to create some small waves on the surface and painted the crests with a bit of diluted white. http://myalbum.com/photo/FIpEgWcln3DB/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/BerM7bo5FjKs/1k0.jpg http://myalbum.com/photo/gkf2urEjISXw/1k0.jpg For the pink flowerplants I used some small plastic rods dipped in superglue gel and sprinkled some 1mm static grass on it, once dry I painted them pink. The orange plant/flower I made from some green cardboard and the orange cone was a mishap from the grass bundles I made earlier. I painted it orange and glued it on the base. When that was dry I glued the leaves around it. the trees both got some vines made from green stuff and on the dryad tree I glued some mininatur ivy leaves, also a few in her hair. On the base as a final touch I glued some birch seed leaves. http://myalbum.com/photo/AelHWIaeU9bE/1k0.jpg Hope you all like her as much as my girlfriend did, she was very happy with the finished piece Any C&C is as always much appreciated
  7. Greetings beloved Meatbags! Just finished up this little project today and I felt like showing it off. However I am feeling really disappointed that it isn't in the 40mm scale to compete! The concept behind this one is to be mostly monochromatic, which brings the attention to the face and highlights. The design on the back is freehand, and I could have done more with it, I just felt like after three tries this was good enough. If you have any questions please ask. And as always comments welcome.
  8. This is the Shaerileth figure. I wanted to do a black & white/greyscale figure, set off with a single accent colour. Well, in this case it was red blood! Kevin in Edmonton http://www.mageknightkevin.blogspot.ca Edit: Ah, as a new user, I've just discovered that you can't show a nude figure here. No problem. If you'd like to see other images of this figure (from the front, for example) you can just travel to my blog, linked in my signature. Thanks everyone!
  9. Hello all, This is my first time in WIP area therefore I am rather excited Secondly I will be trying many new stuff and therefore truly in terra incognita here So, here goes nothing: I started with the base since I want a lava base and I want the rocky surface I will place my mini to reflect light coming from the lava. I chose Vallejo Black Lava for my lava surface but regretted afterwards since I want still molten lava not cooled off lava that is more suitable for Black Lava.. However this is all I have and my local store is out of stuff like white/grey pumice :( But, I will try working with what I have and try to get a realistic look. This is all I have for now. Your comments are eagerly awaited and will be appreciated immensely since I really dont know what I'm doing :)))
  10. This was a technique people asked about after I posted these: I'm not terribly comfortable with basing; handling glues and sand and tiny tufts of fake grass leaves me cold and worried about things holding together for games. But I do have a lot of painting experience. I have found I prefer to paint illusionistic bases rather than try to sculpt and assemble them. The above bases grew out of a bit of advice I had gotten to paint the base green before gluing down some fake grass. I started ... and it just kind of developed. I never did get to gluing down grass. And here, step-by-step, is how I did it. I started with this figure, Reaper 03019, Lathula, female barbarian. She's all painted and glued to a one-inch fender washer for stability (because she's a big girl and her base is kind of narrow). Her original broccoli base shows my priming method, paint white and wash with burnt umber. The base coat is a mix of yellow ochre (center left in the photo) and phthalocyanine green (the dark blob at the right). The green mixed between them looks brilliant because the lightweight phthalo floats to the top and the heavy yellow ochre sinks, but the actual color, a sort of olive, is more obvious on the mini. If using Reaper paints, yellow ochre is Palomino Gold and phthalo green is Clear Viridian (Clear Green can be substituted). After the initial coat, which is put on with a normal sable brush, I use small hog's bristle brushes to apply the paint. Any brush that has gone frazzled and rather stiff will do. On the left is the small flat brush I use for initial layers. It's a little bigger for better coverage. On the right is the round hog's bristle brush I use for later, more precise painting. Note that I have deliberately splayed out the hairs on this brush; this is the effect one needs. Any frazzed brush will do. If you have a sable or synthetic brush that has gone wild (especially if it is splaying sideways, very useful), it will produce a gentler blend than these brushes did, more like the ones at the top. The technique is to take a barely damp brush, touch it almost horizontally to the paint, blot most of the paint out, and touch it horizontally to the base with just a touch-and-lift action. This leaves impressions of the bristles on the base which in layers will look like grass. The colors are mixes of phthalo green. I try to alternate a few dark, transparent greens with pale or yellowed opaque greens. Dark transparent greens include mixes of phthalo green with burnt sienna (Chestnut Brown in Reaper paints), ultramarine blue (no equivalent, but Clear Blue is okay), burnt umber (not sure what that is in Reaper), and a touch of black. Light greens include mixes of phthalo with yellow ochre (Palomino Gold) and white, mostly, with the odd touch of hansa yellow (a really bright yellow). The first two layers were a little wet; I could have blotted the brush more. I didn't mind because I was laying on irregular color, but the more fastidious may prefer drier paint and grassy effects right from the start. By now I was using the smaller bristle brush. It's a little out of focus, but you can see how the texture is developing. I decided I didn't like how the broccoli base was going. It looked too much like broccoli. So I changed it to a rock, thinly painting a gray mixed from ultramarine blue, burnt sienna, and white right over the green. Letting the green show through a little makes the rock look more realistic. You can also see how pale grey-green and ivory-colored layers of grass look over the green. I put some more layers of brighter, transparent green on, and another shade of light yellow-green, and this is the result:
  11. I've been talking with one of my fellow gamers about starting a X-com like game, think necromunda or mordheim. Soldiers versus aliens, battling it out in city streets, docks, woods, ufo crashes UFO's.... Ect I'm looking for terrain. Terrain that you can hide in, climb around that is quick to assemble... I am a fan of hirst arts, and I think I will look at his molds for UFO adventures. But his stuff is slow to assemble and make and paint. Are there any suggestions for inexpensive, terrain that's modular, quick, sturdy, versatile
  12. Hello all, I was wondering the best way to fix a bones mini on a previously prepped and painted base.. It might sound a bit "DUH!" to some but I am new to the world of bones and really want to prepare my bases "before" I fix it to a mini, a.k.a. work on the base without the interfering mini on top. So, advice and comments are very welcome, should I use just glue (if so which type is best?), use tiny pins, or just give up and create my base over the figures natural base??
  13. Hello folks, I'm trying to figure out how to base my Bones Gnolls (77012, 77104, 77235, 77236) on medium (1 inch) bases. After several failed attempts to somehow get the darn things on 1" round bases (74035) I finally overcame my OCD and bought some square bases. As much as it pains me I'd rather have them based and not matching all of the other miniatures than not based at all. It's worth noting that I intend to use these miniatures on a 1" grid battlemat, so just using larger bases is not desired. I purchased some "1 inch" square bases from Reaper (74038) thinking the Gnolls would fit. Unfortunately, the Reaper bases are beveled to 7/8". This isn't big enough and leaves one of the Gnolls' feet hanging off the side. If I flip the base upside down to compare I find that the Gnoll would just barely fit on a true 1" base. How are you guys basing your wide-stance miniatures? Is there a company that sells true 1" bases (without beveled edges)? Thank you in advance for any advice you can provide!
  14. Hi guys, I'm starting to think about doing some basing but I'l not really keen on static grass and the like: yes, it gives stunning results but I'm really interested in producing textured dungeon floors and the like with relative ease In all honesty, I could probably get away with two basic textures: Cobblestone / Dungeon floor Bare rock I know that Happy Sepukku and the like have put out some base stamps: does anyone have recommendations on which ones are any good?
  15. Well, i based another mini, minimaly this time. Not to much going on but sometimes a little goes a long way. One of the first mini i did this year but i waited for the right idea for the base. I really love using the juice bottle caps for basing. Always gives a good presentation and there is room for decor without drowning the mini in it. I went classic for this beast. Can't go wrong with that. I'll go crazy if i do another one. Maybe black & white like a holstein. Will see. I recently got some tools to remove the blob bases. Most of them will fare well without'em. Should have done that sooner. Oh well... Practice, learn, get better and practice some more.
  16. Apologies if this is the wrong forum; if so, please move to the correct one mods. Has Reaper considered punching out 55mm bases. Infinity has started using them for some of their units and the availability of them isn't what I'd like. The market for 55mm bases is pretty niche I'll admit, but if the costs of the machining is low enough, it might be achievable. I understand and expect the numbers won't add up, but I thought I'd ask just in case.
  17. Front and side views (bare breasts) I have to say, I was surprised when I got her; she was a lot smaller than I expected. Finished painting in about a day (not hard when you can paint the entire figure all at once) and spent the rest of the time sculpting the base with Apoxie Sculpt and wrestling with liquid water resin. edit: Ah right, I might as well mention the colors, since it's basically only three gradients. Skin: (Walnut Brown) > Old West Rose > Rosy Shadow > Rosy Skin > Maiden Flesh > Vampiric Highlight. Hair: (Walnut Brown) > Woodland Brown > Orange Fireball > Maiden Flesh Bow and Quiver: (Walnut Brown) > Denim Blue > LED Blue > Blue Flame
  18. Ogre Chieftan, fun to paint. I have a second one waiting as with just one he doesn't have much to be chief of. With 2 they can be bodyguards, with the primitive Ogres from Bones 3 he will finally have a tribe. I did the basing with greenstuff, and tea. In a week or so I will get a Basarius KS pad which is mostly flagstones, but I am impatient.
  19. For my online business, we cut lots of wood and leave lots of pieces in the scrap bin. Well, we just processed a beautiful seasoned branch of oak and cut it every which way right up to the very last piece, the spot where it was cut from the body of the tree. For some reason I spent a few minutes looking at the piece and decided to bring it with me to clean up. As you can see in the pics it cleaned up but I wasn't sure what to do with it. So, I had just posted an ash burl to my website and suggested in the description making it into a treasure horde for your dragon. And I realized what this piece was... a broken column sitting amongst the dwarven horde lost to a dragon. As you can see below, I painted the middle to look like solid rock. I left it slightly exaggerated so the paint could be seen under the gold and artifacts I was planning to place on it. Next step, add the booty to the piece. Which is going to require making some treasure bits, golden and silvery pieces with a smattering of platinum. The last question is, being a dwarven treasure, would you use coins, bullion nuggets, or both for the piled mass?
  20. Alright I want to see what everyone's working on base-wise, even if it's some simple, basic (ha! see what I did there?) stuff. Let's share the bases we are working on. First, I'll show you a couple of the ones I did recently. This was nothing special but one of my first attempts at sculpting any kind of base. Attempted to be some sort of stone/cobblestone street. Just some flattened out milliput then with one of my little clay tools carved in the stones. After it dried, filled it with some white glue and some GF9 grass. Next, I was trying to make some appropriate bases for the cultists I'm currently working on. After finishing all four of these, I decided they weren't "evil" enough and am trying other options. Also, it took me about 3 different iterations of various peoples marble tutorials to get anywhere with painting marble. Not sure if links are okay, but you can search for centerpiece miniatures painting marble bases. I translated the colors they used from citadel to the MSP and am fairly pleased. These were certainly a lot more realistic and a lot more consistent than the multiple attempts at marble I had made prior. Of course, now I have no one to put them on, but I'm sure something will come up. I also struggled to find the appropriate coating for them. Initially a tried a gloss coat thinking it would make it look like a nice shiny marble floor but the coating still dried 'too thin' as in it didn't seem to have the depth I wanted, and also just crazy shiny instead of looking polished. So then I sprayed them with testors and that's why they look all flat now. Alright, now your turn! Show me what you're working on!
  21. Hi, I made my first freehand, and im very proud of it! Mini is not finished but im so happy because of painting that i need to share. Maybe somebody has idea for base for him? I have to do his mask, face and boots and swords.
  22. Where is the best place to buy plain black plastic round lip presentation bases? I recall finding a nice website with 15, 20, 25, 40, 50mm and resin wood plank bases, but can't for the life of me google back to that website...
  23. Again not sure the right thread for this, sorry if I'm putting them in the wrong section. Baugi, you have created a monster, basing has now become a bit of an obsession. So my idea is this dude on a high cliff overlooking the ocean. How high should I make the cliff? Right now he seems huge. Thanks!
  24. aka All Your Base Are Belong to Us! This tutorial will teach you some basic and some intermediate ways to use Sculpey to create custom bases for your miniatures. First, some basic information. Sculpey is a polymer clay which does not self-harden. It must be cured at 130 C/ 275 F, baking time based on thickness. After it is baked it is rigid, can be sanded, carved and painted. There are several types. Fimo, Sculpey, Super Scupley, Scupley III, Premo, etc. It is less expensive than some of the other sculpting materials available, making it great for basing projects! It is similar to standard ceramic clay in terms of workability, but a bit more elastic. It can be stored for years, and only requires a bit of kneading to soften it again. You will need: Why super sculpey, you ask? Because I have some! The same thing applies to the tools- you can use just about anything to shape sculpey. Wooden tools, pins, flatware and especially fingers! But for the projects below, I specifically used the tools above. The pin tool is from a standard ceramic set and the other two shapers from a wax carving set. We need to start by waking our sculpey up. It will come in an easily separated cake of cylinders. Break off a piece, knead it in your hands, warm it up, roll it around, etc, etc until it's nice and pliable. If you've never used it before, play around with pushing different textures into it. Rocks, sandpaper, pinebark, plastic wrap, canvas, and cork can all create interesting patterns. Plus, you'll get a sense of how much detail the sculpey can hold. It's not as much as some of the other sculpting materials available- which I think of as a plus. It won't really hold a fingerprint for example, so you can safely pick up what you're working on. It makes it a very forgiving medium for beginners! And you'll quickly realize it has the best quality of all- it does not stick to everything! Now, what can we do with this sculpey? How about cobblestones? Those make great bases, right? So here we're using the thin shaper to carve stonelike shapes and smooth our edges. That sort of pattern can be created very quickly with just the single shaping tool. I like my cobbles to have curved edges, making the stone looks more 3-dimensional. Bricks, or a brick pathway is another option. Here's an example of how to use the pin tool (like a thick needle. A small nail would also work if attached to a handle) Using our trusty Canadian Sandpaper as a guide, the pin tool creates a brick layer. Then we go back and add the individual brick shapes and add some details. Cracks, slightly curved edges and the sandpaper texture can all be used to make a more realistic brick. I also used the thin shaper to curve the edges of the brick. I've only added details to the top bricks to illustrate the process. But this is boring, you say! Bring on the fancy bases. We want props! Ok... for this next project we'll be using twigs from the garden. Here I've stuck a few twigs in a slightly carved lump of sculpey. I rolled out some little coils to make roots and pressed them on. Now I smooth the edges of the roots with the larger shaper. Then add texture to the roots with the pin tool. ...and we have terrain! In our next installment I'll go step by step through an entire base! Stay tuned! Let me know if you all want more detail or clarification on anything.