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  1. Having finished up my historical Dragoon, I decided to switch gears work on a fantasy project. A while back I'd agreed to help out with the Ouroborus Tales Kickstarter and provide a 'painting journal' describing how I went about painting one of the orcs from that project. The figures arrived a few weeks ago, so I wanted to make sure that was up next on my to-paint list. The official painting journal is only for the project backers, but I can still share work in progress and info online. But the painting journal will have more detailed step by step photos and a more in-depth discussion (sorry, gotta save some secrets for that! =P). Because I like to get the most out of this project, I'm also planning to enter the piece into the 'Eavier Metal painting competition over on their facebook group. For anyone not familiar with the sculpt, here's what the orc brave looks like: It's a nice sculpt, roughly 54mm scale (though smaller than the Black Sailors figures which look closer to 75mm). The title makes me think native american, but there aren't any overtly native american features (features, headdress, etc). The weapons and clothing are primitive so I'm leaning more towards the savage orcs from the warhammer fluff. There's a lot of skin on this guy (no armor covering it up), so I wanted to do something with the green to keep it interesting. I decided to go with a two-tone skin. So green on the back/sides and an off white on the belly. Helps convey a more primitive animalistic look to him. I'm also going to work in more color variation in select spots. Still at a very early stage. I've base coated a lot of the piece and sketched in the shadows on the body. My main focus has been the face, where I've done the green portions and details like the eyes, nose, and lips. I still need to do the teeth, inside of the ears, white on the bottom of the jaw, and add some glazes. But, this gives you an idea where it's going. I'm taking the skin one section at a time, so after this I'll probably try to tackle that left arm and then move on to other parts of the body. I'm enjoying the piece so far, but still have lots to do!
  2. Hi everyone. Gonna jump right in as a first time GM for PBP. Pathfinder Crypt of the Everflame module. Rules: Pathfinder Core Rulebook 6th printing or earlier with appropriate errata. Never played this module/series. Only items, classes, races, feats from Core Rulebook. 1st level. 20 points "point buy system." Good or Neutral Alignments. No "Traits" Declare "favored class" and bonus HP or Skill Average Starting gold for class from the table, not random. Looking for 5 players so if one is absent, we can still press on. Players roll their own dice and post rolls and modifiers: honor system. I vow to post at least twice weekly ;) Be respectful to me and other members: it may be my first time on PBP as GM, but not my first time as a GM for this game system. Once we have a group, pm me emails so I can discreetly nudge absentees If this sounds OK to you, post some characters.
  3. Live

    I remember that the first Imbrian Arts KS had a lot of issues and delays, but I don't know whether it was eventually sorted out or not so if any previous backers have any info it would be worth speaking up. The minis look good though
  4. These are my players for Chaos, in Blood Bowl. The Minotaur/Ogre and daemonettes, are from GW, and the Warriors are a mix of parts from GW, and Avatars of War.
  5. FANTASY FOOTBALL - Florence's Knights: Bretonans and Humans by Greebo Games The Bretonans miniatures look good for gaming: knights (one has something precious you could repurpose), town guards, and townsfolk. The Imperial team looks football only.
  6. I've started working on a classic Chaos sorcerer (variously known as Hutk'Nile, Hutk'Nke or Huth'Nke the plague priest) for a painting challenge at the local Warhammer shop. Basic challenge, paint a single GW character or infantry mini by April 1st and customers will vote for the best in store. I don't think there's even any kind of prize involved, but it's a good excuse to get something done and flex my painting muscles a bit. So, I started with some zenithal priming using spray cans: Then started on the robes: The base colour is Tausept Ochre, an old Citadel foundation colour, shaded with some RMS Russet Brown and highlighted with RMS Amber Gold and Ghost White (linen white probably would have suited better, but oh well) using wet blending. I've also added a bit of Clear Purple to the Russet Brown for the deepest shadows to try and get some more interesting colour contrast going on. I need to do a bit of tidying up of the highlights, but I'm pretty happy with the robes now and I'll move on to the flesh next I think. I'm considering a pallid flesh colour with some bluish tones, or maybe green.
  7. Howdy all! I'm going to start a Mouse Guard group for kids (around 5 to 7-ish years old) soon. I have the mouseling minis for the mice themselves, but I need minis for a wide variety of NPCs and enemies. This is the tentative list I've come up with, based on the core book and the size chart that I attached. I'd like to stay within Bones, but I'm totally okay with spreading out into different Reaper brands. If you folks have any suggestions, it would be much appreciated. I'm mostly looking for miniatures that fit the size categories and look similar to the creature intended (i.e., the Dragon Tortoise for a snapping turtle). If the animal has (Int) in front of this, it has its own society in the world of Mouse Guard, and thus would be wearing clothes, wielding weapons, etc. Thanks for the help! (Colossal-Gargantuan) Bear--Schleich Grizzly Bear 14685 Moose--Shleich Bull Moose 14781 (Huge) Wolf--Schleich Wolf 14741 Wolverine--Schleich Wolverine 14646 Deer--Schleich White-tailed Buck 14709 (Large-Huge) Coyote--77202: Warg (Int) Otter/Sable--Harrek - Otter Cleric - DSM8083 and Otter Knight with Sword and Shield - DSM8087 and Otter Ranger with Bow DSM8089 and Otter Rogue with Loot - DSM8088 and Otter Mage with Staff - DSM8090 and FL13 Otter Mercenary and FL11 Otter Rogue (Large) Fox--77202: Warg Badger--Safari Ltd. Badger 295429 and FL05 Gnarls and Thug, Shrew Slaver and Slave Badger (shows an intelligent badger but way better scale than anything else) Raccoon--Safari Ltd. Racoon 223029 (Int) Marten--Harrek - Otter Cleric - DSM8083 and Otter Knight with Sword and Shield - DSM8087 and Otter Ranger with Bow DSM8089 and Otter Rogue with Loot - DSM8088 and Otter Mage with Staff - DSM8090 and FL13 Otter Mercenary and FL11 Otter Rogue Cat--77341: Lions (2) Snapping Turtle--77334: Dragon Tortoise (Medium-Large) Skunk Beaver Hare Whistle Pig Porcupine Owl--77156: Owlbear (Medium) (Int) Weasel/Mink--Wererat matriarch: 77296 and 01429: Shoatima, Otter Ranger (sadly no longer in production) and BB20 Weasel rogue and FL01 Drunken Weasel and BB11 Ferret Rogue Mole Squirrel Rabbit--Schleich Wild Rabbit 14631 Flying Squirrel Snake--03676: Giant Snake (not bones) Bullfrog--02665: Killer Frogs (not bones) Lizard/Newt/Salamander--77371: Basilisk Crow/Killdeer/Blue Jay-- (Small-Medium) (Int) Mouse--Mouselings!; Evil Mice: BB17 Great Brown Rat and FL02 Black Rat Witch and BB16 Rat Warrior and BB18 Rat Assassain and FL04 Black Rat Rogue Bat--03795: Giant Bats (3) (not bones) Chipmunk (Int) Young Weasel--Wererat matriarch: 77296 and 01429: Shoatima, Otter Ranger (sadly no longer in production) (Small-Tiny) Insect--77126: Vermin: Spiders (2) Baby Snake Tadpole
  8. Looks like you will see the process from the middle, but i think it`s not a problem. As you can see, i have added some nice butt to her. That idea was around for some long, as i wanted to sculpt the legs for Boudicca, but decided not to do this (yeagh, if i do so, then i will finish whole series in a thousand years!) Anyway, i think that THIS WAY Lagertha is just good enough. Also, the detailed article about Tamiya putty on its way. See ya!
  9. This is a pre-launch thread, but should be launching on Kickstarter in April. Darkholds is a dungeon crawler boardgame - think Space Hulk crossed with Zombicide - containing lots of undead (including Wihtgar, Wihtboga, Wihtax, Gasts, Dreaguth and Tomb Spider) and six heroes, all in plastic. It's heroes versus the game. The heroes are Carrowek, Penda, Nerys, Gnith and Sáthach, plus a special KS only miniature that you can ONLY get if you purchase the boardgame, Morag of Mann. You can't get her separately and she will only be available during the Kickstarter. The retail version won't include her. I don't know why it keeps merging into a single post. But hopefully it stays.
  10. I've had most of Rackham's Cadwallon miniature line for about a decade sitting in a box collecting dust. While they don't seem very amazing now, at the time, there was nothing else like them - exquisitely detailed, 32mm fantasy miniatures with dynamic, interesting poses and a uniquely quasi-medieval/quasi-Victorian aesthetic. If you've ever read Terry Pratchett's Discworld series, these miniatures really epitomized the characters from the Ankh-Morpork subseries (prior to the release of Micro Art Studio's licensed Discworld 28mm line) - somewhat arcane, somewhat advanced, with a dash of the cartoonish. The problem was, they were just so nice and so detailed, I never felt my skills had been up to tackling them. Enter Frostgrave - an easily approachable fantasy skirmish game that finally gave me an excuse to crack open the box.This is my first warband with at least another one or two planned just from what I currently have. The bases are CMON's excellent "Mystic" base set. Much more pics in the link below: http://empireofghosts.blogspot.com/2017/03/frostwallon-warband.html
  11. I started this figure to show a friend how I approached painting skin. The figure is produced by Milosh's Miniatures (basically a guy's side project to make miniatures he likes... you can find him on facebook) and comes in 54mm and 75mm versions. This is the 54mm version. Instead of painting her as the traditional 'good' angel, I thought I'd do a fallen angel version. My normal skin mix was changed to create what you see here. The shadows are a mix of ~50% Chestnut Brown, 25% Rosy Shadow, and 25% Burgundy Wine. For the darkest shadows (under the legs, chin, etc), I just added more Burgundy Wine to that mix. The mid tone is 50/50 Rosy Shadow and Vampiric Shadow. To create the highlights I used 75% Vampiric Skin and 25% Fair Skin. Then just a bit of Vampiric Highlight for the top highlights. I still plan to go over the skin with some blue and purple glazes (in a few spots), but that will wait until after I finish the rest of the figure
  12. I've been skipping between projects lately. For a while now I've had the urge to work on another fantasy piece (I usually paint historicals) and finally decided to take on one of the orc pirates from the Black Sailors kickstarter. A few months back I painted a dwarf pirate from M Proyec (http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/65914-dwarf-pirate/) so I may end up combining these two into a scene together. That may be getting a bit ahead of myself, first let's get this one painted and then I'll decide what to do with it! I've seen a couple painted versions of this figure online and I wanted to do something a little different. I opted to paint him up as a black orc with dark green skin. To accomplish this, I used a mix of Dark Green and Burgundy Wine (roughly 2 parts green to 1 part burgundy) for the base. More Burgundy Wine was added for the shadows. To highlight, I used a 50/50 mix of Dark Elf Highlight and Vampiric Skin and mixed that into my base. So far I've just been working on a portion of the face. As you can see, other areas on the head haven't been touched beyond the base coat. Even the parts that look done are a work in progress. I want to do a bit more work to blend the purple of the nose into the surrounding areas of the face. There are some shadows/highlights I want to tweak. And I still plan to go over everything with various glazes to add more color variation. I don't usually paint orcs, so I'm kind of figuring this all out as I go along. But, I'm enjoying the work and can't wait to do more! And for anyone not familiar with the sculpt, here's what the whole thing looks like. The figure is 1/35 scale (54mm for normal humans) but, as an orc, he's closer to 70 or 75mm tall.
  13. This thread is more or less for recommending professional quality online fiction, mostly short, mostly sci fi and fantasy, to help people find enjoyable things to read. From Clarkesworld Magazine here's a sweet and tragic near-future story of an epidemic as told by a food blogger: "So Much Cooking," by Naomi Kritzer From Kaleidotrope, here's "Monkey King, Faerie Queen," by Zen Cho, an amusing story of what happens when a Chinese mythic figure wanders well out of his pantheon.
  14. Finally painted something for myself! He reminds me of the knight from Indiana Jones & the Last Crusade. Thanks for looking!
  15. Hi ! My name is Yann and I work on a new Kickstarter projet, online today :). My english is really really bad, so, for a good informations on this 3d print project, please, look here ^^ : https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vialudibunda/real-3d-fantasy-scenery-to-print-for-rpg-and-warga Thanks (,;,,,;,)
  16. Completed

    http://kck.st/1YVyxwv Wren posted this on Facebook. I was instantly taken by the artwork of the critters. First thing I thought was these would make awesome minis!! Backed the game + the NSFW expansion. Looking forward to seeing this one.
  17. Caveman Vs Wild: The Big Chill is Flytrap Factorys latest Kickstarter for a range of 28mm white metal miniatures and rule set, it has been funded and has 7 days left of the campaign. In Caveman vs Wild you take the role of a tribal chieftain leading a hunting party of muscle bound Neanderthals packing state of the art hunting utensils in search of prey and supplies in advance of the encroaching winter now firmly gripping the lands. There are a variety of miniatures on offer from the Neanderthals, Pygmy Hunters, Mammoths, Woolly Rhinos, Doom Turkeys and Dire Bears and Squirrel Rats. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1959627361/flytrap-factory-presents-caveman-vs-wild-the-big-c/description
  18. Just like 2015, I realized the end of Orctober was quickly approaching, and I hadn't painted a single Orc! I had to remedy that, but I went through the box of "primed and ready" and found the Orcs...lacking. I had to build a few, and these were the results of those most near completion already. First, we have a group shot: "C'mon, boyz, dance like ya mean it! Show the crowd what they came here fer!" Some solo shots of the notorious Kap'n Kee-Runch, a Freeboota of little note. He's assembled from the Tankbusta Nob, arms from the plastic Nob box, and a pirate Ork head from Spellcrow. Then we have savages, the lot of them: A very agile lot of Savages. Check out those dance moves! That's the end of that.
  19. This bust arrived on my doorstep the other week, so I decided to take a break from the orc I've been doing to paint a bit on this new piece instead. The figure is Count Melenth from Polaris Minor. The bust is roughly 150-200mm scale. I didn't have a lot of direction with this guy other than the fact that he looks evil. To make things a bit more interesting, I decided to paint some OSL on him. I shifted the primary light source from directly above him to above him and to his left. This casts the right side of his face in shadow, so I added a secondary light source (with a blue tint) below him and to the right. I still find OSL quite challenging, so to help with that I started by simply sketching on the lights and shadows. This was pretty rough work, but it allowed me to see how I thought it should look and quickly make adjustments to the lighting. Much easier to make changes at this stage rather than near the end when all the blending and find detail work are there. Once I was happy with the basic setup, I started refining my work on his skin. So far I've just focused on his left. I still haven't really touched the OSL area. In this first image, you can see a side by side of my initial sketch with the current state. And here are a few more views I've still got a lot that I want to do. Even on the blended skin, I need to add some fine details and then go back with glazes to add more subtle color shifts. But there's enough here for you to see where I'm going with it.
  20. I found some Army Men terrain at my local thrift shop... How It's Made
  21. Made a coven throne from the start collecting set. Now it just needs basing.: WIP pics:
  22. A friend of mine, Chris Stadler, is planning on running the new incarnation of Warhammer Quest, "The Silver Tower," at the Necronomicon convention this October (Tampa, Florida -- Oct 28-30 -- http://www.stonehill.org/necro.htm). To help out, I have been painting up two sets of the monsters, plus the heroes, and the "Mighty Heroes" expansion. (Why two sets of monsters? Because the game is normally meant for 4 players, but it would be nice to accommodate up to 6. That, and with things like Pink Horrors who split into two Blue Horrors when you squash them, it's nice to have a few extra minis around.) My figure paint jobs aren't going to win any awards, as I've got quite a few minis to paint, and not much free time as of late. (Plus, I've got to finish preparing for my OWN games at Necronomicon.) However, I just thought I'd share something that I think might be useful for games of Warhammer Quest: base labels. I started painting up the minis, following the document that shows how to assemble the puzzle-pieces together (and they ARE very puzzle-like -- with snipping them from the sprues without breaking off any details being a nail-bitingly tense challenge), but what I didn't realize until our first play-test was that it's actually *important* to note which of the various minions/monsters are holding particular weapons, because they attack differently. One minor trip-up we had was in identifying, for instance, which of the Kairic Acolytes was armed with a "Glaive," and which one was the "Adept." At least identifying which one had "Two Blades" and which one had "Blade and Shield" proved to be pretty easy. To speed things along, I figured I should put names on the bases ... but there's no way I'd have the time to try to do that by hand, when I'm struggling enough as it is just to get all these figures assembled, based, and painted passably. So, I took samples of each of the bases (25mm, 32mm, and 40mm round bevel-edged bases) and used the sticky side of a Post-It note to adhere to the beveled edge, then traced the curvature onto the (sticky) paper for each. From there, I scanned in the traces, and used that as a basis (narrowing things a bit to account for the fact that my tracing pencil has greater-than-infinitely-narrow thickness to it) for some templates in Photoshop. Photoshop has some handy text effects, including the ability to "arc" the text to follow such curvature. So, I started arranging "labels" on a sheet, then printed them off, and used dots of glue to affix them to the beveled edges of the bases. If I feel bold enough (and have enough other things taken care of), I may go back and touch up the white frayed edges of the "labels" with some black acrylic paint. I'm just a bit reluctant to mess with it because with every application of paint, there's the risk of it going somewhere I don't want it to. P.S., the storage box is a Portable Warfare "APC" box (basically a layer of pluck-foam with a foam base, and a foam cover, inside a large cardboard keyboard box). I printed off some Warhammer Quest "labels" to help easily identify the boxes. One APC box is sufficient to hold all of the monsters (so with twice the monsters, that'll come out to TWO APC boxes), whereas another APC box is sufficient to hold all the heroes, plus the Mighty Heroes expansion, with some room for further expansion. ... As for comments on the game and miniatures in general (although not a proper "review"): * The level of details on the miniatures is extraordinary, and although the pieces are "puzzle-like," they are well-engineered to go together, as long as you are VERY careful when snipping them off the sprues (I recommend a little pair of hobby snips to clip the sprue ends, then going back with a hobby knife to shave the sprue-join spots). There are many tiny details that can be very easily mistaken for flash or sprue-bits to trim off, and exceedingly fine points that worry off (fingers, keys, bows, spikes, grot arms) very easily. Part of my work is going to be to dig through my "bitz" to replace a broken bow here or a missing arm there (Chris got the second set of monsters as part of a deal from someone who got another copy of the game just for extra tiles, and it looks like the arms were already missing when he got the sprues) for the grot scuttlings, who were the most fragile of the bunch. * On the downside, a lot of the figures are ridiculously gaudy and I'm not so keen on the continued scale inflation of GW minis. Also, even though PC types are dipping into the ranks of Chaos for more variety, I feel as if the selection isn't nearly as diverse as I would have expected from the broad canon of Warhammer Fantasy. > The dwarf in the core game and the dwarf in the Mighty Heroes expansion look too much alike, IMHO. Back in the days of Advanced HeroQuest or Warhammer Quest there was a distinct difference between a "Dwarf Warrior" and a "Dwarven Trollslayer." I.e., only ONE of them was running around in a loincloth, with a bright fiery orange mohawk piled up so high as to tower over the heads of humans and elves alike. But here, BOTH the Dwarf heroes seem to shop at the same store for their ornamentation, and both have a thing with using outrageously-tall hair or plumed helmets to make up for height issues. And all that BLING tied into their beards. They ... look .. RIDICULOUS. > The Knight-Venator is an eye-catching model, but it's ludicrous to try to move it around the table -- especially when dealing with the problems of trying to make a 40mm base fit on a board with squares that barely accommodate 32mm bases. Also, he looks a little too much like the Knight-Questor (not that anyone's going to confuse the two, what with the wings). If we're going to have multiple knights, what happened to Empire vs. Bretonnian knight styles? Or the different Orders? There used to be a very distinct look, but I guess what with "Age of Sigmar," it's just NOTHING but "Stormcast Eternals" or whatnot. > On the other hand, I adore the Gryph-Hound. The Darkoath Chieftain is a magnificent figure, and I could see it being used for a lot of general fantasy as a great archetypical fantasy barbarian hero. (It was an additional nice touch that the Darkoath Chieftain has two optional bits for his left hand -- either holding an axe, or holding a tzaangor head. None of the others has any bits options, so it was an odd choice.) I have no idea what's going on exactly with "Mistweaver Saih" (the only female model), but it's a wonderfully dynamic model. The Pink and Blue and Brimstone Horrors are the best "Horror" models I've seen yet. (I've got a bunch of old ones from my Advanced HeroQuest days. If I run AHQ again, I'll use THESE instead of my old pewter models.) Actually, I rather like the Tzaangor and the Kairic Acolytes, too, although they're a challenge to assemble. And the Familiars! Such fun. Really, the monsters are great all around. :) * I actually prefer the game-play of the new Silver Tower game to the original Warhammer Quest (though the older Advanced HeroQuest will still hold a special place in my heart). The narrative elements add a bit of showmanship to the game (the other players had me do the "dramatic readings" from the narrative bits), and the dice mechanics are novel without being too fiddly or overly "cute." * I suppose my main "gripe" about the game would be that it doesn't *quite* scale right with number of players. It WILL be noticeably more challenging if you have fewer than the maximum of 4 players. My second one would be that I really could have done with some sort of "cheat sheet" or "reference card" listing the actions that EVERYONE is able to take each turn. Your own special abilities that your chosen character can perform are clearly spelled out on your card, but the basic stuff that anyone can do (recuperate, move, etc.) is only covered in the main book. After a bit of play, sure, you should be able to memorize this, but for introducing it to new players, it would be nice to smooth out a few of the aggravations of learning a new game -- and something like this would definitely help.
  23. So while I'm currently running a game already, I've been jonesing to create a new setting. I don't know if it's because my current game is edging on the two-year mark (!) and that part of my brain is just getting antsy, or if it's because I'm afraid for the possible TPK in a few weeks (my PCs are hell bent on fighting a CR25 dragon at level 12), but whatever the case, I've been slowly chipping away at a new setting for my next game. Yesterday I began work on the map! For reference, the scale is 6 miles to a hex. So this is a pretty expansive area.
  24. The characters from the 2002 classic indie film The Gamers are back. The characters have been trapped in our world after slaying their players, and now we get to find out what they've been up to. This will bring us up to the cliff hanger ending of The Gamers 3: Hands of Fate. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/deadgentlemen/the-gamers-episode-1/description On there you will find the shorts from season 0 for Newmoon, Nimble, and Magellan. Rogar's episode is being finished, and there is a short piece that fits at the end of The Gamers 3. As a Kickstarter exclusive, there will be a video of "The Incident", as teased in The Gamers 2: Dorkness Rising by Mark. Mark was the sole survivor of the original group of players... What happened to him in 2005? Why does he fear The Shadow? Only those who back the project will ever see it... Timeline for The Gamers and its sequels: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B10d9HkGDK61Q0lzU0pCU3Z0N3M/view
  25. Completed

    Well!! today we officially announce the upcoming launch of the Champions from arround the ancient world: SET 3 Kickstarter campaign! The campaign will be launched febraury 8 (monday), and this time we are adding some special for you to use with the minis! As novelty-and since this is the last campaign for 28mm characters from Menhir Games- we communicated with 2 companies that created, each of them, rulesets that fit perfectly with the so particular miniatures: rules for skirmishes of about 4 to 12 miniatures (average) per side, having both rulesets a RPG “touch†making it possible to make very customized profiles to each Champion. By pledging certain level, you as backers will get a "coupon" to use to get the PDF rules, the Printed rules or both of them at an important discount when visiting the editors page webstore. :::::::::::::::: From Metal Express we have Bladestorm: “Bladestorm is ICE’s classic fantasy “skirmish-style†miniatures game. Each figure represents one person or creature. Simple and fast-pace, it’s a raw, hard-edged game with an emphasis on action and color. Bladestorm is designed to stand alone; you never need a referee. Use the Bladestorm rules to fight miniatures battles set in virtually any fantasy world.†https://www.facebook.com/BladestormTabletop/ ::::::::::::::::: From Spiral Bridge Studio ( http://www.spiralbridgestudios.com ) “Rack & Ruin is a campaign-based skirmish game designed for 25mm-35mm fantasy miniatures. Players design the 4-5 miniatures they want to use as characters and add more as monsters or apprentices that follow their heroes. This book contains all the rules for building your party of Human, Elf, Dwarf, Halfling, Orc, Goblin, Risen and Beastman characters. Choose your party’s goal from the 6 provided and then customize your characters with 18 different skills, over 130 traits, and over 70 items." https://www.facebook.com/SpiralBridgeStudios/ :::::::::::::::::: Important! you can already get the free downloadable version of the quick start rules to give them a try! You can found them on www.WargameVault.com Pictures of the models that will be funded: We printed the giant to give a better idea of his... impact? Salutes and stay tunned!!