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Found 47 results

  1. Hello everyone. Here are some goblins a painted that I'm sure many of you are familiar with. I have not posted anything in a long time because married life kind of takes up lots of my time :)
  2. Fulfilling

    If not for Black Plague, Conan, Blood Rage, Dungeon Sage, Darkness and Light ... and maybe Bones III, I'd be interested: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1636851747/atlantis-miniatures-28mm-goblinsorcs-and-trolls/description
  3. Hello , last day for my running campaign to add the Hobgoblins race to the Greenskin Wars universe. A lot of goals unlocked and cool new items and also some from the first campaign too. All masterfully sculpted by goblin legend Kevin Adams! Bugbear WIP
  4. I was looking for something else, when I saw the Goblins in the Bones III Kickstarter. Those guys are pretty epic. I have been working on a set of goblins and do have some Bones and Metal minis of the existing Goblins. I vastly prefer the newer sculpts (the football head ones with all the sharp teeth) but for the display set I have in mind I'm wanting to get metal versions of all of them. Will the Goblins in Bones III be made available as metal minis some time in the future? And is there a general way to tell on other types of figures? I can understand not having the Dragons translate across due to weight and size, but are there some things that make it into metal and some that don't?
  5. Hi, After being very lazy on the painting front for a while, I decided to knock a batch of models off of my unpainted shelf. These models are part of an expansion from the "Dungeon Saga" board game called the "Warlord of Galahir". The theme of the expansion is mostly Orcs and Goblins with a couple of new heroes: a Salamander (a fiery lizard man) and a Glade walker shaman (a tree-man). The models are cast in "coloured plastics" so the details may not be the sharpest, there was a lot of warping, but it is pretty good for a boardgame, and there is a pair of identical sculpts in each batch. Painting-wise, I went for quick tabletop quality, no blending, stark highlights, and resilient clear coat as I'm expecting these models to see quite a bit of action with the kids. The hardest mini to paint was the Orclings as they are super-tiny and tightly crammed on the base (they are based by default) making reaching out some spots challenging. C&C welcome Heroes and Boss: Trolls: Orcs: Goblins: Orclings and Mawbeasts:
  6. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/674003445/kev-adams-tim-prow-oldhammer-goblin-miniatures/description
  7. 77024 Goblins 77349 Goblin Command (2) 89002 Pathfinder Goblin Pyros 89003 Pathfinder Goblin Warriors (!!! What?!? Missed these in my search and they are awesome! Next order... ) 89004 Pathfinder Goblin Warchanter I never really liked Goblins much, until Pathfinder. Something about these little monsters and the reimagining with so many teeth changed my viewpoint. So much chaos. So many pranks. So much fun. Cheap Bones Goblins? Sure! Sign me up! Still in the thinking stages of this and I don't know that I'll use all of the figures from each of the boxes, but I'm thinking of doing a display piece and calling it "20 Goblins!" (which will probably only have 13 figures... because Maths). Though now, that I write this out, I may have to go back and look at what I'm doing. Mostly I wanted something fun to paint and took the fairly decent ones and just threw brown liner on them. There are some mold lines that could be cleaned up. Well... we can call these test figures and I can replace them with another $10 $20 order... ha! About half of these guys are going to have to go to the Vat of Boiling Doom to fix poses and / or weapons. I also noticed that many of these are very hydrophobic... more so than some of the other Bones I have gotten. No worries... more Liner and done. Then started adding some skin tones last night on the Hangout.
  8. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/866987250/goblins-and-sea-demons-wargames-miniatures?ref=category_newest This small project is to help release some new Goblins and Sea Demons to expand on the pieces already released.
  9. Reapercon has a long history of (we be) goblin shenanigans, and I am hoping to help enable it! My small contribution--I'm going to be running one of the craziest goblin-themed Pathfinder Society adventures, Frostfur Captives, in the Atwill room at 10:00 on Friday. It's a zany story of goblins being goblins and you trying to keep them from killing themselves. I hope to see some of you there!
  10. Funded

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/554542735/greenskin-wars?ref=hero_thanks
  11. Painted up some mooks for tabletop use. It's been awhile since I painted anything this size. I did Ebonwrath recently, but painting a dragon is a little different than smaller minis. Who knew? Anyway, these guys helped me get some practice and back into the swing of things.
  12. One of my more recent works, a gobblydegook of Goblins from various manufacturers. Unfortunately, this whole batch suffered a sealant malfunction and had to be rescued...after a few hours of that, I kind of called it done in frustration. I also tried out a suggestion from a previous thread, of using a darker backdrop. This is my kit from Dwarven Forge's first Kickstarter. First off, the Goblins of Golarion, (Pathfinder Goblins from Reaper Bones) A foul witch who practices dread alchemies deep in the woods, armed with her Wand of Exploding and Broom of Bashin', the wicked Baba Yagob (from Confrontation): The most hated member of any tribe, the Bearer-of-Words, who keeps those cursed things away from the goodly Goblins (A Reaper familiar) Some Thugs and ne'er-do-wells (Warhammer Gnoblars and Goblins: Two Goblins brothers who get along swimmingly (Warhammer Goblin Squig Herder) A Goblin who failed his Survival check to identify that mushroom (Infested Goblin from Ganesha Games) A big burly Goblin who claims to be a Barbarian, but who can tell? They're all pretty Barbaric (Reaper Goblin Barbarian) The most important members of the tribe, the Master-of-Meals and Bringer-of-Brews, (an old 40k Grot and a Gnoblar) And some gobbledygook shots:
  13. So I painted this a couple weeks back. I was looking for something in my boxes of shame that I could paint up quickly without regret. When I came across this guy, I was inspired to get out my Ral Partha paints. Others on this forum are in love with their partha paints. I myself remember them being a bit chalky and pastel. If you notice one of those colours above is called "Goblin Flesh", it's a colour closely resembling a pale Tangerine. Goblins in D&D weren't always green. In the 1st ed Monster manual their skin colour was described as ranging from yellow through dull orange to brick red, with reddish to lemon yellow eyes. Where did this almost ubiquitous notion that all goblins are green come from? That I don't know, but I suspect the Green Goblin to be somewhat implicated. Since historical accounts don't seem to depict them as green. With all this in mind, I decided to dust off my partha paints, and try them out by making a 'correctly' coloured goblin, which you see below. Huzzah! Hope you enjoy!
  14. These are two old lead goblins from the ancient boxed Grenadier set #5002, "Monsters". (That's what, 1980?) They are so crudely molded I couldn't figure out what they were at first. They had a ton of flash when I got them. The sculpts are hugely chunky and have some blobby areas. They also have some cute details, including a shield and scabbard held on with rope. The paint job is a little impressionistic. Okay, really impressionistic. The rust on the helmets is deliberate, at least. As they are classics I painted them in classic colors. Old style D&D goblins were orange, or tangerine, if you will, still far and away the best color for goblins. This was the original WIP thread, but I finished them rapidly during the Memorial Day Paint Binge weekend.
  15. So here are the mighty Goblins, painted more than 25 years after their brethren.... Just goes to show that even and old fool can learn a thing or two.... Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: Before: After: So there you have them! Tried a little bit of shading on the metals of the weapons, using Decay Black where zenithal light would be absent, don't know how much it helps... And for minis that have been used in countless AD&D games since they were painted, the old ones still don't look too bad.... Comments welcome! WiP here Thanks for looking! George
  16. I interrupt my other works in progress to bring you this special Project. But George, those guys are already done, you are thinking.... And you would be right! I painted these guys when I was in college, back in the early 90s, using the Polly S & Ral Partha AD&D Paint Lines... And seem to have missed the fact that the guy with the 2 handed mace is wearing some sort of skull cap! But now, I have 5 more! Thanks to another forumite that was going to use them as weight for the melt tables at R Con, he was kind enough to let me save them from the abyss... So it will be fun to see what this group will look like, with all of the things I have learned from my fellow forumites in the last 9 months,and using Good brushes, a wet palette, Scale 75 paints, Reaper and Vallejo, and yes, Polly S AD&D 460 Goblin Flesh! Come back and see when I get more than primer on them! (They are also Goblin Flesh practice for the Infamy Goblin Chieftain on the Death Chicken....) George
  17. Here are a couple of Bones goblins I painted up yesterday. Just a quick tabletop paint job. I did a few minor conversions; detailed them here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/68042-chaos-wolfs-conversion-clinic-pic-heavy-open-topic/ Please let me know what you think.
  18. Another Standard Type that shouldn't be missing in my D&D Bestiary: Goblins Got me the Pathfinder Designs, the normal ones cast in Bones (#89003), the torch bearers in metal (#60017). I definitely recommend metal for these cause especially the knives and teeth really lose shape in bones. It took me 3 different approaches to get the OSL right, but I'm quite happy with how it came out at last.
  19. Start with three Goblins, painted (poorly) with MSP. (Reaper bones Goblins 20024) Then give two of them two coats each of Liquitex Gloss Varnish - Artist Acrylic 6208, with 3 hours between each coat. Shiny! They're dry, but don't look like it. The spearman is the Control (unvarnished). Next, the Matte sealers. The Spearman is still the control. The archer was given a coat of Liquitex Matte Varnish - Artist Acrylic 5216. The Liquitex Matte goes on just like the Liquitex Gloss, its milky and tranlucent, and prone to bubbling. I have to give it a good coating, then go back over it with the brush and basically pull a bunch off where it's pooled or turned into foamy wierdness. The Mace guy was given a coat of Testors Dullcote Lacquer 1160. The Testors goes on clear, and maybe a little thicker, but it starts to dry out and/or turn matte fairly quickly - you can see it starting to happen by the time you finish one mini. It's really easy to just slap on a coat and not worry too much. Three hours after the first coat of matte, the Liquitex looks kind of greasy. Still shiny, and thick. The Testors looks waxy. Like it's not wet, but there's a layer of something mostly translucent that you can see, dulling everything down. Both are still too shiny, so a second coat of matte is applied. Three hours later: Pretty darn similar. Both still waxy, and shinier than I'd like. Compare to our friend the Control: So a third coat of matte must be applied. This time I remembered to take pictures of what the Liquitex is like! slathered on: and with the excess brushed off: That's still wet, it's just really hard to get the stuff on the mini in a reasonable fashion, and I'm trying to avoid the nebulous 'over-brushing' which can cause fogging, or so the products tell me. Three hours later, here's coat number three: The testors looks shinier in the pic, but they're both about the same in person. Speaking of looks, see how terrible the sealed ones look next to control: What am I doing? I'm ruining them. One thing politics has taught me is to never admit you're wrong. Stay the course. Keep on keepin' on. So I put on a fourth coat. It's not getting any better. Furthermore, I don't really see a difference between the two matte sealers, all I can focus on his how much better the unsealed one looks, and how bad the other two do. Look at the bases! Same photo but zoom/crop: Unsealed (left), then Testors (middle), then Liquitex (right) My sloppy drybrushing, mostly undone by liquid evil. So what I was originally trying to find out was the difference between the matte sealers. Why? Because it's too cold/wet outside to use my spraycans. I originally used a couple coats of Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating, then one coat of Testors Spray Lacquer Clear Coat (which is actually Dullcote, but just labeled incomprehensibly). This combo worked GREAT. But in winter (and for some reason, I find myself painting more when I'm trapped inside for months at a time) the sprays aren't so good, hence the brush-on sealers. I noticed my brush-on minis were not as nice as the spray ones. Maybe it's liquitex's fault, maybe their matte isn't good, etc. When I found out Testors made a brush-on dullcote, I had to give it a try. And I think what I've found out is that Liquitex doesn't suck, I do. I think my problem is the initial coat. Or all the coats. Too thick, too much. The reason it looks like it's covered in waxy stuff is because it actually is covered in waxy stuff. So what to do? I noticed the Testors bottle says to "ONLY" use Testors brand thinner to thin for brushing. Am I supposed to thin this stuff? How much? It just says "apply generous coats"! How thin? Doesn't thinning it mean it's not fully sealed? Argh! Also, I don't have gloss Testors. My only gloss is Liquitex, and it's VASTLY different (see: milky foaming bubble mayhem). Can I use the "Lacquer Thinner & Brush Cleaner" on the Liquitex? It says not to thin with water. Does that mean don't thin it, or do thin it, but with some thing else? It's "varnish" is that the same as Lacquer? Or are they different things? If so, what can I use to thin the Gloss Varnish, if anything? Would thinning it make things better? It's a "Acrylic Polymer Emulsion" but I don't know what the Testors is actually made of. It's too late for these poor mistreated goblins, but hopefully I can figure something else out. Maybe I just need to be (far) more careful, or maybe there's a different product I can use, but I've got a lot of bones, and very little Summer.
  20. This is the Technicolor Wolf's fault... Here are some Citadel Goblin Chariots and wolf Riders that I painted up back in collage in the '90s... The Box: Full Crew: Only the Chariot with the Severed Dwarf head on a spike, and it's body nailed to the tongue got finished for some reason.... This Chariot was a blister pack, with a spell caster goblin as the passenger. Never did paint the crew... The harnesses on the wolves are more advanced on this model... And 4 different wolf Riders... I have the crew for the Spellcaster's Chariot, as well as the other chariot from the box set and it's crew, plus another Box chariot with a 3 wolf team still in the box... Maybe someday they will see paint.... George Notice the boxes say Citadel and not GW?
  21. Here is some progress I've made with my "vintage orcs" warband project. A project I'm working on very slowly, only when I feel in the mood. Orcs, from various boxes/games. Common traits: being old and plastics. A group of Goblins. The 4th edition ones are godawful dull and uninspiring, but I wanted some just for nostalgia... Group shot of the warband up to now. I've also branched out to Reaper Bones: for now, just an Hobgoblin among them. Bigger pics here: https://gabbigames.wordpress.com/2016/01/24/orchi-vintage-parte-2/
  22. Speed paint on one of those guys (by my standards - 2 hours total, but I just painted the broccoli, I'll get a proper base on there later) to get him ready for my son's birthday party this afternoon. (Sorry for crummy cell phone pics.) Man... Gonna have to try again to get the hair later. It's got some decent highlighting on it that makes it a lot more interesting. Going to go back later and touch him up, but he's in plenty good shape at this point for today's game.
  23. Just got a pack of The Red Box 1/72 Dark Alliance Orcs:set 2 that I plan to use for goblins. The plastic is kind of rubbery, maybe a PVC material, unlike the styrene like plastic I was expecting. It is for the best to be honest, main sprue can be bent in half and returns to original shape with nearly no trouble and only a tiny bit of discoloration. That will at least keep the tiny weapons from breaking easily. The plastic seems a bit like Bones, so filing does not seem too effective. Plan is to clean and wash them on the sprues then pin the sprue itself to some sort of anchor for painting. Probably give them each a paperclip shortbow or a couple javelins from hammered paperclips.. Since I kinda like the base colour of the plastic, first thing is to start with a wash of Minwax polyshades Antique Walnut and see what happens.
  24. So I've been working on these recently, really small fellows, with their respective wolves. I didn't want to go for grey wolves, so tried to make them brown, mangy and dirty looking. Someday later I want to paint some grey wolves and maybe white and black when I have time. They really didn't take too long to paint. Another thing I figured out afterwards is I probably sat them too high on the wolves, but once you actually put them on with Super Glue, there is unfortunately no going back. They are also a bit separated from the wolves, but on those two lunging wolves, hopefully it looks at least like they are bouncing up and down on them. I've put them in at a bunch of different angles. So anyway, hope you enjoy!
  25. Part of the Stonehaven Half-Orc Kickstarter were these lovely Tengu, or Japanese bird-goblins. I am in a game with many bird people, including a PC, so there's a real use for these. There's a little mystic, dwarf-sized, and two warriors, a male and a female, more human sized. They have a lot of gorgeous detail. At this point I've prepped them, removed flash, glued them to bases, primed white, and washed them, first with straight Burnt Umber, then with a bright deep purple mixed from Phthalo Green and Quinacridone Magenta. The purple isn't quite dry in a few places (like under their feet) and looks shinier and more opaque than it actually is. I next used a technique of mixing in warm yellow-white highlights to a very wet wash of purple shadow color to produce a monochrome toned effect. The highlight color is a sort of opaque warm pale cream-banana yellow-white out of Yellow Oxide (= Mars Yellow = Yellow Ochre = Yellow Iron Oxide = Reaper's "Palomino Gold") and Titanium White, not thinned down at all. As I said on the Half-Orc thread, you have to work fast to do this in acrylics. The highlight / blending brush needs to be cleaned frequently. It's really more of an oil technique. But if you can manage it, you can get really nicely blended colors. The thing that makes it work is to use a totally transparent shadow color and a reasonably opaque highlight color which are different, possibly even opposite colors. Also, keep it light and fast. At the moment, using a bright purple and a creamy yellow, they are basically grisaille (I haven't done the mystic yet).