Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'maledrakh'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Reaper Discussion
    • FAQs 'n Stuff
    • News
    • Reaper General
    • Chronoscope
    • Bones Miniatures & Legendary Encounters
    • ReaperCon
  • Craft Corner
    • Show Off
    • Painting Tips & Advice
    • Works In Progress
    • Speed / Army / Tabletop Techniques
    • Shutterbug
    • Conversions, Presentation, and Terrain
    • Sculpting
    • Mini Exchanges and Paint Contests
  • Reaper Games
    • CAV
    • Warlord
  • General Discussion
    • General Fantasy
    • General Sci-Fi
    • General Modern / Historical
    • Kickstarter
    • Off-Topic Rampancy
  • The Sandbox
    • The Gathering
    • The Playing
    • Fiction, Poetry, and Other Abuses


  • Reaper

Found 197 results

  1. The bimonthly resolutionary challenge in the Reaper forums is to get about 4-5 minis painted each month, and also there are some bonus challenges. This February, like last year, one of the bonus challenges is to paint a minature with your fingers. No brushes allowed. And no fingers of other, smaller people either. And it needs to be a creature, not scenery. Challenge accepted. Again. Last year I fingerpainted this: 77368 Shadow Demon This year, I am doing this: The Bones 2 “77372 Burrowing Horror”. Basically a teeny tiny Tarrasque. Technically I probably should have done the primer with my fingers as well, but seeing as it was undercoated by spraycan many moons ago, there have not been any brushes on it. So there. In preparation for this, I have let my fingernails grow a couple of weeks…since my fingertips are way to big to get at any details at all…but a fingernail, both edge and torn, does the trick! These are the colours I used for this. I picked them as I went along, only having a vague idea of how this was going to end up. The miniature was baseless, so I made a base for it: Bespoke 3D printed 80 x 55 mm oval lipped base. Starting by dipping my finger in a pool of Scalecolor Heavy Metal (=midtone silver) I wiped the finger a bit and “drybrushed” the whole model with a movement from front to back on the model. A few goes at this covered nicely: This was followed by a highlight of Army Painter Shining Silver on the ridges and main plated of the head and tail, taking care to not cover up all the Heavy Metal. After that, some Vallejo Game Color Glorious Gold on the claws I mixed some heavy metal with the gold to create a highlight color, which I dabbed on the tips of the claws. I also tried to do the teeth in gold with the edge of a fingernail, but this did not turn out too well. Tearing a fingernail, I used the point to paint the teeth individually, and also did the eyes in Vallejo Game Color Magic Blue, highlighted with a small dot of ancient Hobby Game Products Blue 005. The nail broke off, and I had to tear me a new one. This I then used to clean up some areas with black lining and fixing bits I had missed or slopped the wrong color on. I finished with some blobs of Vallejo Green Ink on the sides and underneath. Then I had to fix all the spots of green that had gotten where they should not be. And then I had to fix all the metal that had rubbed off here and there with my handling of the mini. The base: A thick layer of Army Painter Walking Dead Dirt Spatter, followed by Reaper Pure Black on the rim. After this was dry, I marked where the feet would be by dabbing some lighter brown on the soles of the feet and holding it to the base. This was followed by a globbing on of thinned down PVA woodworking glue to the base surface with my finger again. A couple of tufts were added straight into the wet glue and then I dipped the whole shebang in my box of flockmix. Gently clearing flock from where the feet were to go, I put some superglue in the general areas and placed the miniature on the base, and it was done: Painted by hand. In the most literal sense. All in all, a fun couple of hours of getting messy fingers. Mostly waiting for the paint to dry whilst frantically wiping at my tacky paws to get the paint off. And at last I got to cut my fingernails down to their proper place again! Cardboard boxes being the sworn enemy of fingernails, they caused a couple of casualties at work today.
  2. I had some browns and greens left over on my pallette from working on some orclings, so I put the colours to use together with some vallejo smokey ink for the dark stain. Just globbed a few different shades on, drybrushed some others here and there, dotted in the eyes and teeth and hey presto. I glued some basing flock to it's branches for the finishing touch. 30mm base Together with this Swamp Demon from Conan the Board Game: These were both really quick and easy, which often is the case where the colours are similar all over. 25mm integral base.
  3. Maledrakh's Bones 3 Wereboar

    A Wereboar in full charge mode. No wonder King Robert got the worst of his drunken encounter in the woods. This one was started via a case of "I have some exess paint on my palette", this time I had a mishap and squeezed out far to much skintone at one point. And as I can't really get the paint back into the bottle, I needed to find a use for it. Hence this. This wereboar is AFAIK as of yet unreleased for general sales by Reaper, so I do not have a SKU code for it. It came in a set with the werewolf I did not too long ago, and weregorilla(!). I based it on a 45mm 3D printed base. I hope it does not droop any more, but I fear it will as so much of the mini's mass is to the front, with only the single back leg to support it. Time will tell.
  4. Maledrakh's Terrorton

    The Plague affects not only humans, but most animals and many alien sentient races. Such as the hitech DinoTurtle-like Teraton. The Teraton females are significantly larger than the males, and when infected by the Plague, she grows partially into and partially busting out of her armour, while remaining more or less her normal size. These 2nd generation Teratons retain most of their intelligence and function as leaders on the field of battle. I like to call them Terrortons. Because they are terrifying and weigh a ton! While at the same time being well ‘ard and quite imposing on the battlefield. They are about the same size as a 1st gen, but not quite as powerful. They are good as secondary leaders and can provide some hard muscle in smaller games where the 1st gen is too costly to bring. The Terrorton is made in restic and I have mounted it on a 50mm base, like the 1st gen. Plague Teraton for the Plague faction, Warpath and Deadzone games. by Mantic Entertainmant made in restic PVC 50mm base
  5. Maledrakh's Mantic Plague 1st Gens

    The imposing 1st generation plague victim. What happens is that the first person to get infected by the Plague in a given cycle, turns into a horrendous monstrosity, growing several metres in height and width, it’s new massively muscled frame covered in a bio-organic spiky exoarmour. In it’s new form it is extremely intelligent and powerful individual that sets out find others to infect. These new victims turn into the 2nd generations, each much smaller than the 1st gen, but still ogre-sized. These again infect the 3rd gens that we have seen. The 1st and 2nd gens do not use technology or weapons, relying on their rock hard exoarmour and brutally strong claws to do the dirty work. I found that for some reason, I had started but not finished painting my 1st gens. Two complete repaints later: The one to the left is the restic standard 1st gen model. The one to the right is a resin kickstarter exclusive freebie for those who spent an obscene amount of cash on the first KS. (of which I remain guilty as charged…) One of the resin mini’s fingers had broken off during storage. That’s what happens when it is put loose in a box with other minis, and that box is part of an avalanche in the Mountains of Minis. (At that point I might have said a bad word.) I managed to make a new finger by carefully applying some plastic putty in several stages. Can you see which it is? The resin one is slightly larger than the restic one. I believe the restic shrinks a bit more during casting. They are painted much the same way as the other plague models I recently have painted: Reddish-Brown basecoats, several careful drybrushes with shades of beige and skin, globbing on a generous wash with citadel druuchi violet ink and some carroburg crimson ink in places while the violet is still wet. Two thin coats, pah! Glob it on I say! take care to not let it puddle too much though. When dry, drybrush again with several skintones. Some more carroburg crimson here and there for muscle-effect. Dot in the eyes and teeth in white over black. red for the tongues. I mounted them on 50mm lipped round bases I had lying about. Looks much better than the 40mm flats they came supplied with. Plague 1st generations for Deadzone and Warpath. by Mantic Entertainment
  6. Maledrakh's 77493: Brain In a Jar

    It’s a Brain in a Jar! I have always wanted a brain in a jar. So I can have a safe place to keep the moonshine, you can be quite certain that nobody is going to mooch off it when it is in there together with that thing... This one comes from the Reaper Bones 3 kickstarter and I simply could not wait any longer to paint it. It is a giant brain, though. The legs stand at about 5cm in diameter. 77493: Brain In a Jar Reaper Miniatures, Bones 3 KS. Bonesium PVC sculpted by Chris Lewis
  7. The 20 resin heroes from wave 1.5 of the Shadows of Brimstone kickstarter. I believe there are 12 or so more resin heroes and companions to come in wave 2. A note about the resin used. I see that there is a lot of internet-hate directed towards the resin models, mainly because of the greasy release agent used not being easy to remove, and that many people prefer plastic for ease of gluing and such. I think many of the complainers are boardgamers more than miniature modellists, which I certainly can see these models posing problems. My experience was that with a good scrub in warm soapy water, most of the release agent went away. A few of the models needed an extra coat of primer here and there, as I had not gotten the release grease properly off everywhere, but with that extra coat on I have had no problems. In this they are not really any worse than other resin models I have worked on. One problem was that many of the parts were small, and had very small gluing surfaces (e.g. wrists to arms) but I got them stuck together by using activator spray on the superglue to make it bond quickly. Luckily the resin is lightweight, so gluing a small joint is actually enough to hold the part. (Many of these would not have worked with metal miniatures!) I avoided the small feet being small gluing surfaces altogether by using the vent-sprue bits still attached to the feet of the models as pins to fix them to the bases by drilling matching holes in the bases and cutting the vents to size instead of all the way off.
  8. The following images depict a miniature of a female sylph or fairy in natura. I am not sure if these would be in conflict with the posting guidelines or not. Better safe than sorry. First picture Second picture Third picture Clear minis are best painted by undercoating with a matte clear varnish and then transparent paints such as inks. This mini has wings in vallejo pale grey wash before citadel carroburg crimson wet blended on drucii violet. Body in thinned old citadel turquoise glaze, hair and panties in army painter green ink. The eyes are the only bits painted with normal opaque paint. As this mini does not seem to be released as of yet, I do not know who sculpted it or what it's code or official name is.
  9. The minis from The Gluttony Expansion for The Others 7 Sins boardgame. aka The Greater Deamon of Bloated Body Horror. I call him Tetsuo. 40mm base. and his little mini me’s, the Abominations: I call them the six little pigs. 25mm bases. The Controller of Gluttony I call her Leeloo. 25mm base. All of these are made in board game plastic / Rigid PVC The Others 7 Sins is published by CMON / Guillotine Games with miniatures by Studio McVey.
  10. For the Company of Wolves: A real live one: This is the 77437 Winter Wolf from the third Reaper Bones kickstarter. And about the size of a horse, so I think of it as a werewolf’s full wolf form. Or a Dire Wolf as needs be. Miniature sculpted by Sandra Garrity. Bespoke 50x25mm 3D printed base. and the real dead ones Two pairs of 77533 Dread Wolves from the Graveyard Expansion from the Bones 3 KS. One pair brown and one pair grey. Ended up rather samey…Too dark perhaps. Bespoke 35x25mm 3D printed bases. In the immortal words of Lord Flashheart: "Woof Woof!"
  11. Today saw the completion of the three Void Sorcerors: Womma Womma Womma! All my thin pointy brushes have given up on life and chosed to split, so I am struggling abit with thin lines these days. While waiting for some new brushes I have ordred to arrive, we get a bit shoddy with the freehand symbols such as in these books. It should still be possible to make out which symbols I have tried to paint in each of them though. I hope. These are from the “Masters of the Void Deluxe Enemy Pack” for Shadows of Brimstone, the Wierd West lovecraftian horror scifi mashup dungeon delver. This pack also includes the three Void Hounds I did a few weeks ago. So that completes the minis from that expansion. The void sorcerors are on 30mm bases, and are made from HIPS polystyre aka “hard plastic”.
  12. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  13. The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of. So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be. Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks. 77521 Gravewailer Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 40mm base
  14. Maledrakh's 80075 Camel w/ Pack

    From the Bones 3: Mythos expansion comes the “Camel w/ Pack”. Luckily, the pack-part is loose and fits quite snugly so it is not nessecary to glue it on. This turned out to be a really good thing, as I left the pack on it and went on a few days’ trip. When I came back, the camel was listing heavily to it’s right side. I pulled them straight again, too bad I forgot to take a picture. still listing... Herein lies one of the problems with the bones material, especially when the legs or other supporting bits are thinnish. They sometimes cannot support the weight causing the mini to droop earthwards. The legs are fine for just the camel, but they could not support the weight of the pack as well, and bent over time. I have experienced that almost all dragons and larger models need a third contact point in addition to the legs, or some reinforcement with metal rods to avoid drooping. It could have been a wild camel if not for the bridle. ..and the pack. 80075 Camel w/ pack Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 3D printed 60x35mm oval base
  15. Maledrakh's 77341 Lions

    A pair of big cats from the second Bones Kickstarter campaign Expansion set #1. That expansion was a seemingly random collection of different minis, these were the only “natural” creatures it it. The camera washes out the colours even though I have reduced the wossitsname that makes it less washed out as much as possible. I think the female turned out better. There is something wonky about the face of the male. They are based on my 50x25mm 3D printed oval bases. I put the stl on thingiverse where it can be downloaded for free. and now I have a hankering for *that* candy bar. You know which one.
  16. These are Wererats, not Skaven at all: Being Bones, they are slightly soft in the details, especially the smaller ones. They are made of the slightly more rigid Bones material that most of the second kickstarter Bones were done in, and as such the thinner bits like blades and tails are still flexible, but not rubbery or so bendy as to droop under their own weight as has been known to happen to some Bones in extreme poses or with only the legs supporting heavy bodies, similar to the poses of these minis. However, these are all rigid enough not to have any such problems. So that is a win in my book. 77292: Giant Wererat: Erring on the side of caution with the backside picture, due to the ...huevos on display https://maledrakh.files.wordpress.com/2017/09/170927-reaper-bones-77292-giant-wererat-d.jpg The Rat Ogre (still can’t bring myself to call it a “Rat Ogor”) certainly has got a pair. 40mm base 77293: Wererat Berserker 30mm base 77294: Wererat Stalker 30mm base 77295: Wererat Assassin 30mm base These are all sculpted by Jason Wiebe according to the reaper store.
  17. Maledrakh's Bones 3: Mythos scenery

    The scenery from The Bones 3: Mythos Expansion 77525 Great Obelisk. I have tried to vary the tones on the greys used here, on the obelisk itself and not just the cephalopod on top. It really does not show up too well in the pictures. 77523 Cthulhu Shrine A statue that causes sanity loss. As above, I trued to vary the tones,mostly with different coloured glazes. And they do not really show up in the pictures here either. This does not seem to have a code nor a name (yet). It is also from the Bones 3 Mythos Expansion. I will call it the Cultists Altar.
  18. These three pieces have been sitting around in a box for ages, I rediscovered them the other day and decided to just have at them. They really did not take more than a few minutes plus drying time each. 77136 Well of Chaos 77139 Altar of Evil 77137 Sarcophagus The well was filled with a drop of blue and a drop of unshaken green (=blotchy and stripey as the pigments had seperated alittle) vallejo paint. Just one drop directly from the dropper bottles into the well each, a very gentle stir and leave to dry. A little touch up around the edges and hey presto! I am pretty chuffed with the result. The stone is done by black undercoat, dark green/grey over that, heavily drybrushed with sandy yellow and lighter drybrush with offwhite. Differently coloured glazes help differentiate it a bit where needed.
  19. Yup, what is says. Challenge accepted! First comes the Dragon, then come the Timestamp. Then the Dice Rolls of Destiny to decide on colours: Cloudy Gray, Earth Brown and Violet Red. Not bad at all. That could have gone so much more ...shall we say garish?. well anyway, as I don't have very many Reaper paints (not available in any store, not to mention continent) near me, I will make do with as similar as I can get from my other paints: and I see my cloudy grey is backwards so you can't see the name on the lable in this shot...so here is the other shot: Vallejo Tierra / Earth should be a good match for Earth Brown according to the paint range colour comparison spreadsheet. Red Violet? The spreadsheet did not really help that much as I don't really have that many of the other ranges there either. I mostly have Army Painter and a lot of older (15 years +) citadel, gamecraft and other such randomness. I hope the Citadel Fire Dragon Crimson (from the earliest round pots with flip top caps -I poured all my old paints in to dropper bottles a couple years ago.) is close enough. Seems like it should be ok based on the colour in the spreadsheet. It is a reddish violet any ways. And really old. Hope it still is useable or else I will have to mix something up. And of course, Ebonwrath was undercoated black ages ago, as I undercoated everything black in those days. As pure black is one of the permitted colours, and the black will for the most part be painted over, I think that should be OK. So the challenge is to paint Ebonwrath with ONLY these three colours, with black and white permitted for mixing. no other colours, no inks or quickshades. This should be different...
  20. Maledrakh's 77305 Gelatinous Cube

    I remember when, during a dungeon crawling AD&D session a lifetime ago, we entered a part of the dungeon where the corridors were spotlessly clean but for a sign saying "Meet the Cleaner" or something to that effect. And a transparent, quivering wall moving towards us at speed... It ended badly for our party even though the Gelatinous Cube was defeated in the end, it's acidic jelly eating away at all our armour and favorite equipment, leaving our party drastically reduced both in capabilities and hit points going foward. And at last a proper miniature of such a Cube! Made in clear translucent Bones. I 3D printed a custom base for it, 8 cms in diameter. The middle piece is a part of the Cube and consists of a bottom "plug" and leftovers from some of the Cube's earlier meals. I tried for an oilslick rainbow-ish effect on the cube, dribbling on an assortment of inks and quickshades and then dabbing at it with some tissue paper to prevent too much colour pooling. I just wanted a hint of colouration to stain the clear rubbery plastic. An experiment, but I am rather pleased with the results. Apart from the orange/yellow being a bit too strong. The Cube it self is hollow and can fit a miniature inside completely! 77305: Gelatinous Cube from the Bones 2 kickstarter Reaper Miniatures Unknown sculptor Clear Transparent Bonesium PVC 80mm base
  21. Maledrakh's Cemetary Golem

    Sometimes I come across a mini I just adore the concept of. This is a golem or contruct made out of gravestones, broken bits of mausoleums, bone fragments and skulls and with Nightmare before Christmas -style cast iron gates for wings! A useful construct for when Necromancy does not make hard enough minions! From the Bones 3 Graveyard Expansion, here is the Graveyard Golem. Or whatever it's official name will be when they release it into the wild some time in the future. Cemetary Golem from the Bones 3 Kickstarter, Graveyard Expansion. Reaper miniatures Bonesium PVC 60mm base
  22. Maledrakh's Bones 3 Mystic Circle

    The last week or so I have been prepping Bones from the third kickstarter. I have spent enough hours this weekend undercoating with my airbrush to get welts on my trigger finger. There are so many of them! Setting up my airbrush is a bit of a bother and I have to sit out in the garage when working with it, so I need some impetus to get going. And I need to get this done because Winter is Coming! And so we get to this big circle of standing stones. I looked at the bare bones parts before I had prepped much of anything and inspiration hit me. I just brushed on some black gesso one late night and after that it was a doddle to paint and drybrush. The rest was sticking on a bunch of assorted tufts and a load of my scatter mix to finish it. Really simple and quite effective. The circle is about 24cms in diameter when set up like this. The circle breaks up into 4 self-contained pieces. On the tabletop it will be easy enough to space the parts a bit to make a larger terrain area. Mystic Circle (as of yet it does not have a code number) Reaper Miniatures Bones 3 KS Bonesium PVC
  23. Maledrakh's Bones 3 Statue of Dagon

    This is a pair of terrain pieces that appeared in the Bones 3 pledge manager as was as far as I remember not actually a part of the Bones 3 KS campaign. Naturally, as it was called "Statue of Dagon" I had to have it. I kept the painting simple, as I want to use this as a scatter terrain piece. The main piece is 11cm tall. I forgot to put a mini in for scale again. Sorry about that. Statue of Dagon (as of yet it does not have a code number) Reaper Miniatures Bones 3 KS Unknown sculptor, it is not in the webstore yet. Bonesium PVC
  24. Maledrakh's Bones 3 Air Elementals

    he Bones 3 kickstarter shipment arrived at long last! Hoody Hoo! Which also means I have been in a frenzy of difficult mould line removal, scrubbing little white rubbery plastic bits in warm soapy water, dipping said bits in boiling hot water then cold to unbend bits here and there, and gluing stuff together and to their new bases. There are rather a lot of minis in this shipment... So I break it down into portions. Already I have roughly a square meter covered in mins that are ready for the undercoat. I snuck some of the translucent clear minis out first and did them up in time for their anti-shine spray varnish undercoat together with my Cthulhu Wars Glow In The Darks Great Old Ones that had been prepped for varnish undercoat just before I got the Bones 3 shipment. So I start with the Air Elementals. I do not know what Reaper calls these as they have not been released for general sale yet. I will simply call them Greater and Lesser Air Elemental. The Greater Air Elemental. I dirtied them up to a varying degree, as any twister pulls a lot of loose debris up into itself. I thought about sticking a bunch of flock to it here and there, but a dry run looked less than satisfactory. So I dropped that idea. My efforts to try to brush the flock into a blown pattern, did not work either. The Lesser Air Elemental. The bright light made them look a bit more frosted white than they actually are. At last I have the complete set of the four classic types of greater elementals. Greater and Lesser Air Elementals Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS I don't know their codes nor sculptor/s as they are not yet in the reaper store. Translucent clear bonesium PVC 60mm and 40mm bases respectively.
  25. Early last year, I pledged on Kickstarter for the Circle of Chaos Warband by Curtis Fell of Ramshackle Games fame, but I did not add on for the Rhinotaur at that time. ...So when I received the original 7 minis of the Circle, I kicked myself for not adding it on. The minis were weird-in-a-good-way designs by several sculptors, and great quality casts, and were all painted late last year. When the shiny syndrome at last overpowered me, I contacted Mr Fell, and he graciously ordred a Rhinotaur cast up and sent to me. After prepping, I added one of my 3D printed oval bases, and it has been standing around on my desk ever since, trying to get my attention. Which it in the end, did. "Very few mutations survive conception. Fewer still survive birth. Some are so twisted and hideous, the host's birthing screams must be silenced to maintain a shred of sanity. This begins the tale of one such horror, unleashed upon a blighted world. A beast of war and ruin so terrible a strong man's guts turn to water at the sight of it. A pair of ancient cleaving swords it yields, whirling and feinting despite its armored bulk. It's mighty horns used to batter and break and pierce, are sharp enough to penetrate a dragon's hide. But despite all of this, despite the horrible carnage, the hacking, the trampling, the impaling, the worst of it is its battle cry. Pig snorting and squealing in battle, reaching its fervor. And suddenly, blood covered and splattered with gore, it opens its jagged mouth and emits the piercing yet pure and joyful squeals of a baby." -from the KS update introducing the Rhinotaur addon. The completed warband in all it's glory. Curtis Fell / Ramshackle Games is officially on my "Kickstarter good performers" list Good communication, great product, timely fulfilment. A+ would back again. The Rhinotaur aka Grey Death Circle of Chaos Oldhammer Warband KS by Cutris Fell Sculpted by Jason Wiebe Metal. Heavy Metal 75x45mm 3D printed oval lipped base.