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Found 205 results

  1. As a fan of Warhammer 40k since it was called Rogue Trader, I have found the new direction of the post-Kirby era GW to be uplifting and with the release of many interesting minis I have begun spending money on them again. Kill Team: Rogue Trader is one such set I have bought recently. The Gellerpox Infected are the "bad guys" of the set. Formerly crewmembers and shipboard vermin that have been granted some of Grandfather Nurgles gifts (you know, the ones that keep on giving!) and have ...evolved. lots more pics beneath, but you have to want to see them...
  2. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Bones 3 Mystic Circle

    The last week or so I have been prepping Bones from the third kickstarter. I have spent enough hours this weekend undercoating with my airbrush to get welts on my trigger finger. There are so many of them! Setting up my airbrush is a bit of a bother and I have to sit out in the garage when working with it, so I need some impetus to get going. And I need to get this done because Winter is Coming! And so we get to this big circle of standing stones. I looked at the bare bones parts before I had prepped much of anything and inspiration hit me. I just brushed on some black gesso one late night and after that it was a doddle to paint and drybrush. The rest was sticking on a bunch of assorted tufts and a load of my scatter mix to finish it. Really simple and quite effective. The circle is about 24cms in diameter when set up like this. The circle breaks up into 4 self-contained pieces. On the tabletop it will be easy enough to space the parts a bit to make a larger terrain area. Mystic Circle (as of yet it does not have a code number) Reaper Miniatures Bones 3 KS Bonesium PVC
  3. This is an old metal Cthonian aka Carnivorous Worm, from the Call of Cthulhu line made by RAFM co. It was painted in less than an hour, entirely by drybrushing up from a black undercoat. No washes or layering used. The base is bespoke 3D printed and measures 85x60mm. I believe this miniature still is available from RAFM.
  4. The Others: 7 Sins boardgame has an Expansion named Apocalypse. Unsurprisingly, it includes versions of The Four Horsemen...and a ...Thing...called Greater Demon of the Apocalypse: They are all large minis. Apocalypse (in case you have not guessed it, the tentacled monstrosity second from the left) is 130mm tall! lots more pics behind the
  5. Urutaa is a Maori word meaning "pestilence" and "plague" and "fever". It is also a sound that evokes "METAL!". So I will call the whole army Urutaa. Because they kill you FILTHY! I bought heavily into the new editon 40k and especially the Death Guard when they were released. At the same time I also bought some Daemons of Nurgle (Starting with the Blightwar set) as I always have been more partial to Nurgle than the other chaos gods and these would be a good fit both for the Death Guard and for my budding Maggotkin army for Age of Sigmar. Or so the self-justification for spending all that money on some rather expensive plastic went. And, as usual, I am getting round to them late. I begin with these Plaguebearers to establish the esthetic I would like to have across the army. How I painted these: I started with a grey undercoat, and further undercoated by spray in an orangy leather brown from below and a sandy yellow brown from above. On top of this I painted assorted details in a lot of different colours, mostly purples and reds with a dash of green here and there. Light grey for the horns, dark brown for the claws. Pink for eyes. The weapons were basecoated in Scalecolour Caribbean Blue (a bright turquoise that is more or less the same as citadel nihilakh oxide) and drybrushed heavily with Vallejo Tinny Tin (a dark bronze like the old Citadel Tin Bitz). When I had had enough of dotting in bits and slopping on slashes of colour here and there I gave each mini including the weapons a heavy wash of Citadel Druuchi Violet Wash followed immediately when still wet with a moderate to heavy wash of just the head and upper body with Citadel Athonian Camoshade Wash (which is a greenish brown or a brownish green). This has the effect of clearing off much of the violet leaving the filthy green, and also mixing with the violet at the edges, creating a nice gradual colour transition effect. I take care to avoid the washes pooling by drawing off most of the pools with a damp brush. Also, the violet interacts with the sandy and orangy brown beneath, creating a rather splendig purple tone. It really is much more easy to do than it looks! When the washes are dry, I go over some of the details such as eyes and teeth, and add some more colour here and there. On the bases, I first glued down some black flock around the feet, and when dry I added a few appropriately dead-looking tufts and my normal flockmix. The effect is to illustrate how they pollute the ground they are walking on. I am pleased with the results, it is a slighly more labourious method than I did for my older plaguebearers sometime in the late 1990s (the balow have updated bases and three additional minis painted in the same style to make the legal unit size of 10:) but is still quite quick and easy, and also looks much better.
  6. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh abominables the Yetis

    just a batch of quickies today: It is not really apparent in the photos, but they are all subtly different in the colours used for the base yellow and offwhite fur. I chose to base them the same way I do the rest of my minis, in case I actually get around to building an Ogre army sometime in the future. Yeah, I know they are supposed to be called Ogors now, but just no.
  7. “Off to off the wizard” The figures are from Reaper Bones KS3, “Chronoscope Wild West Oz”. Since they all were armed, I see this as a sort of hit squad, hence the title. I based them on 30mm round display bases from Reaper, and I 3d Printed a 20mm round in a similar style for Toto. Since not only the Tin Man, but also the flying monkey are obvious metal robots, I think “Weird West Oz” or even “Steampunk Oz” would be a more fitting moniker. The miniatures are made in the slightly harder Bonesium, henceforth to be known as Better Bones™. Since the third Bones kickstarter, all Chronoscope Bones are coloured grey, The Flying Monkey, Lion, Tin Man and Scarecrow are sculpted by Bob Ridolfi, with Dorothy and Toto by Julie Guthrie. Only the Scarecrow seems to be released in Bones as of yet.
  8. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Sledgehammer BFG

    This set was delivered as part of the third Bones kickstarter campaign, but is not sold by Reaper. There seems to be no mention of it here on the Reapermini-site at all, which I find a bit strange. It does not appear in any search I have tried. However, it is to be found on the Victoria Miniatures site, so I assume it was only made by Reaper for Victoria Miniatures and not as a joint product even though it was in the Bones KS. That aside, IT'S SLEDGEHAMMER TIME! I have not actually painted any large vehicles or similar kits like this in a very long time, and have never really tried my hand at weathering or any of that lark. So the results are not all that either. In hindsight, I think I should have done the piece in a different color more consistent with the uniforms I ended up doing, maybe added some camo netting or something. Also I probably should have looked into how to do weathering properly -I don’t even have a sponge. And maybe I should get my airbrush up and running again. Oh well. It is perfectly servicable for the tabletop. the backside pictures all turned out too blurry to be usable. The gun and carriage are in hard polystyrene HIPS plastic, and quite straight forward to build. Parts fit together fine with little or no flash to speak of. The crew are in bones material, and the rubbery type at that. Only the wrench and the rangefinger piece needed the hot water treatment to straighten anything out. All (apart from the range finder part) are one piece, with tabs beneath their feet to fit seperate slotted 25mm round bases in a similar style to 40k. There is also a large oval base for the piece, but I did not use that here. The tabs needed slight trimming to fit the slots in the bases. Apart from this the minis only had very slight mould lines, which can be ignored unless they, like for me, trigger your OCD and need to go. I carve them off with a sharp scalpel. The range finder-piece was completely wonky even after boiling, and I ended up having to drill through it and insert a pin to get it to be something approaching straight, The crew are slightly smaller than similar models from the Imperial Guard, sorry, Astra Militarum from Warhammer 40k which this model clearly is meant for.
  9. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Malifaux Hog Wild Crew

    The Hog Wild Crew from the game Malifaux by Wyrd Games. Warning: I don’t play Malifaux, but I do love these minis. Apologies in advance about any in-game mistakes I might make here. These are the entire contents of the boxed set called “Hog Wild”. HIPS plastic miniatures, many pretty small parts and a bit fiddly, especially the bonus gremlin (to the left) that was included in the box. Even so, lovely minis with a great sense of both personality and movement. The Hog is called “Old Major” but I have done him up as the tyrant Napoleon from the Animal Farm animated film (1954) which is a film everybody should watch (or read the book by George Orwell).“Old Major”, incidentially, is also the name of the old hog who starts off Animal Farm by holding an inspirational speech shortly before he dies, a speech that inspires the revolt on the farm and the rise to power of Napoleon. But I found this model to be much more Napoleonesque than the wise Old Major…as some animals are more equal than others. Ulix is the Leprechaun-like beardo with the top hat, and as far as I can tell, the leader of the crew. Penelope the hound helps keep the rest in line. I did this one similar to a dog a friend of mine had many years ago. The three little pigs huge boars. Excellent models with heaps of animation and personality! Imagine one of these barreling out of the undergrowth, charging straight at your little, unprotected hunting party… And the bonus bayou gremlin, and extra included in the box with a sticker on the outside.
  10. The bimonthly resolutionary challenge in the Reaper forums is to get about 4-5 minis painted each month, and also there are some bonus challenges. This February, like last year, one of the bonus challenges is to paint a minature with your fingers. No brushes allowed. And no fingers of other, smaller people either. And it needs to be a creature, not scenery. Challenge accepted. Again. Last year I fingerpainted this: 77368 Shadow Demon This year, I am doing this: The Bones 2 “77372 Burrowing Horror”. Basically a teeny tiny Tarrasque. Technically I probably should have done the primer with my fingers as well, but seeing as it was undercoated by spraycan many moons ago, there have not been any brushes on it. So there. In preparation for this, I have let my fingernails grow a couple of weeks…since my fingertips are way to big to get at any details at all…but a fingernail, both edge and torn, does the trick! These are the colours I used for this. I picked them as I went along, only having a vague idea of how this was going to end up. The miniature was baseless, so I made a base for it: Bespoke 3D printed 80 x 55 mm oval lipped base. Starting by dipping my finger in a pool of Scalecolor Heavy Metal (=midtone silver) I wiped the finger a bit and “drybrushed” the whole model with a movement from front to back on the model. A few goes at this covered nicely: This was followed by a highlight of Army Painter Shining Silver on the ridges and main plated of the head and tail, taking care to not cover up all the Heavy Metal. After that, some Vallejo Game Color Glorious Gold on the claws I mixed some heavy metal with the gold to create a highlight color, which I dabbed on the tips of the claws. I also tried to do the teeth in gold with the edge of a fingernail, but this did not turn out too well. Tearing a fingernail, I used the point to paint the teeth individually, and also did the eyes in Vallejo Game Color Magic Blue, highlighted with a small dot of ancient Hobby Game Products Blue 005. The nail broke off, and I had to tear me a new one. This I then used to clean up some areas with black lining and fixing bits I had missed or slopped the wrong color on. I finished with some blobs of Vallejo Green Ink on the sides and underneath. Then I had to fix all the spots of green that had gotten where they should not be. And then I had to fix all the metal that had rubbed off here and there with my handling of the mini. The base: A thick layer of Army Painter Walking Dead Dirt Spatter, followed by Reaper Pure Black on the rim. After this was dry, I marked where the feet would be by dabbing some lighter brown on the soles of the feet and holding it to the base. This was followed by a globbing on of thinned down PVA woodworking glue to the base surface with my finger again. A couple of tufts were added straight into the wet glue and then I dipped the whole shebang in my box of flockmix. Gently clearing flock from where the feet were to go, I put some superglue in the general areas and placed the miniature on the base, and it was done: Painted by hand. In the most literal sense. All in all, a fun couple of hours of getting messy fingers. Mostly waiting for the paint to dry whilst frantically wiping at my tacky paws to get the paint off. And at last I got to cut my fingernails down to their proper place again! Cardboard boxes being the sworn enemy of fingernails, they caused a couple of casualties at work today.
  11. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Bones 3 Wereboar

    A Wereboar in full charge mode. No wonder King Robert got the worst of his drunken encounter in the woods. This one was started via a case of "I have some exess paint on my palette", this time I had a mishap and squeezed out far to much skintone at one point. And as I can't really get the paint back into the bottle, I needed to find a use for it. Hence this. This wereboar is AFAIK as of yet unreleased for general sales by Reaper, so I do not have a SKU code for it. It came in a set with the werewolf I did not too long ago, and weregorilla(!). I based it on a 45mm 3D printed base. I hope it does not droop any more, but I fear it will as so much of the mini's mass is to the front, with only the single back leg to support it. Time will tell.
  12. I had some browns and greens left over on my pallette from working on some orclings, so I put the colours to use together with some vallejo smokey ink for the dark stain. Just globbed a few different shades on, drybrushed some others here and there, dotted in the eyes and teeth and hey presto. I glued some basing flock to it's branches for the finishing touch. 30mm base Together with this Swamp Demon from Conan the Board Game: These were both really quick and easy, which often is the case where the colours are similar all over. 25mm integral base.
  13. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Terrorton

    The Plague affects not only humans, but most animals and many alien sentient races. Such as the hitech DinoTurtle-like Teraton. The Teraton females are significantly larger than the males, and when infected by the Plague, she grows partially into and partially busting out of her armour, while remaining more or less her normal size. These 2nd generation Teratons retain most of their intelligence and function as leaders on the field of battle. I like to call them Terrortons. Because they are terrifying and weigh a ton! While at the same time being well ‘ard and quite imposing on the battlefield. They are about the same size as a 1st gen, but not quite as powerful. They are good as secondary leaders and can provide some hard muscle in smaller games where the 1st gen is too costly to bring. The Terrorton is made in restic and I have mounted it on a 50mm base, like the 1st gen. Plague Teraton for the Plague faction, Warpath and Deadzone games. by Mantic Entertainmant made in restic PVC 50mm base
  14. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's 77493: Brain In a Jar

    It’s a Brain in a Jar! I have always wanted a brain in a jar. So I can have a safe place to keep the moonshine, you can be quite certain that nobody is going to mooch off it when it is in there together with that thing... This one comes from the Reaper Bones 3 kickstarter and I simply could not wait any longer to paint it. It is a giant brain, though. The legs stand at about 5cm in diameter. 77493: Brain In a Jar Reaper Miniatures, Bones 3 KS. Bonesium PVC sculpted by Chris Lewis
  15. Maledrakh

    Maledrakh's Mantic Plague 1st Gens

    The imposing 1st generation plague victim. What happens is that the first person to get infected by the Plague in a given cycle, turns into a horrendous monstrosity, growing several metres in height and width, it’s new massively muscled frame covered in a bio-organic spiky exoarmour. In it’s new form it is extremely intelligent and powerful individual that sets out find others to infect. These new victims turn into the 2nd generations, each much smaller than the 1st gen, but still ogre-sized. These again infect the 3rd gens that we have seen. The 1st and 2nd gens do not use technology or weapons, relying on their rock hard exoarmour and brutally strong claws to do the dirty work. I found that for some reason, I had started but not finished painting my 1st gens. Two complete repaints later: The one to the left is the restic standard 1st gen model. The one to the right is a resin kickstarter exclusive freebie for those who spent an obscene amount of cash on the first KS. (of which I remain guilty as charged…) One of the resin mini’s fingers had broken off during storage. That’s what happens when it is put loose in a box with other minis, and that box is part of an avalanche in the Mountains of Minis. (At that point I might have said a bad word.) I managed to make a new finger by carefully applying some plastic putty in several stages. Can you see which it is? The resin one is slightly larger than the restic one. I believe the restic shrinks a bit more during casting. They are painted much the same way as the other plague models I recently have painted: Reddish-Brown basecoats, several careful drybrushes with shades of beige and skin, globbing on a generous wash with citadel druuchi violet ink and some carroburg crimson ink in places while the violet is still wet. Two thin coats, pah! Glob it on I say! take care to not let it puddle too much though. When dry, drybrush again with several skintones. Some more carroburg crimson here and there for muscle-effect. Dot in the eyes and teeth in white over black. red for the tongues. I mounted them on 50mm lipped round bases I had lying about. Looks much better than the 40mm flats they came supplied with. Plague 1st generations for Deadzone and Warpath. by Mantic Entertainment
  16. These three pieces have been sitting around in a box for ages, I rediscovered them the other day and decided to just have at them. They really did not take more than a few minutes plus drying time each. 77136 Well of Chaos 77139 Altar of Evil 77137 Sarcophagus The well was filled with a drop of blue and a drop of unshaken green (=blotchy and stripey as the pigments had seperated alittle) vallejo paint. Just one drop directly from the dropper bottles into the well each, a very gentle stir and leave to dry. A little touch up around the edges and hey presto! I am pretty chuffed with the result. The stone is done by black undercoat, dark green/grey over that, heavily drybrushed with sandy yellow and lighter drybrush with offwhite. Differently coloured glazes help differentiate it a bit where needed.
  17. The 20 resin heroes from wave 1.5 of the Shadows of Brimstone kickstarter. I believe there are 12 or so more resin heroes and companions to come in wave 2. A note about the resin used. I see that there is a lot of internet-hate directed towards the resin models, mainly because of the greasy release agent used not being easy to remove, and that many people prefer plastic for ease of gluing and such. I think many of the complainers are boardgamers more than miniature modellists, which I certainly can see these models posing problems. My experience was that with a good scrub in warm soapy water, most of the release agent went away. A few of the models needed an extra coat of primer here and there, as I had not gotten the release grease properly off everywhere, but with that extra coat on I have had no problems. In this they are not really any worse than other resin models I have worked on. One problem was that many of the parts were small, and had very small gluing surfaces (e.g. wrists to arms) but I got them stuck together by using activator spray on the superglue to make it bond quickly. Luckily the resin is lightweight, so gluing a small joint is actually enough to hold the part. (Many of these would not have worked with metal miniatures!) I avoided the small feet being small gluing surfaces altogether by using the vent-sprue bits still attached to the feet of the models as pins to fix them to the bases by drilling matching holes in the bases and cutting the vents to size instead of all the way off.
  18. The following images depict a miniature of a female sylph or fairy in natura. I am not sure if these would be in conflict with the posting guidelines or not. Better safe than sorry. First picture Second picture Third picture Clear minis are best painted by undercoating with a matte clear varnish and then transparent paints such as inks. This mini has wings in vallejo pale grey wash before citadel carroburg crimson wet blended on drucii violet. Body in thinned old citadel turquoise glaze, hair and panties in army painter green ink. The eyes are the only bits painted with normal opaque paint. As this mini does not seem to be released as of yet, I do not know who sculpted it or what it's code or official name is.
  19. Yup, what is says. Challenge accepted! First comes the Dragon, then come the Timestamp. Then the Dice Rolls of Destiny to decide on colours: Cloudy Gray, Earth Brown and Violet Red. Not bad at all. That could have gone so much more ...shall we say garish?. well anyway, as I don't have very many Reaper paints (not available in any store, not to mention continent) near me, I will make do with as similar as I can get from my other paints: and I see my cloudy grey is backwards so you can't see the name on the lable in this shot...so here is the other shot: Vallejo Tierra / Earth should be a good match for Earth Brown according to the paint range colour comparison spreadsheet. Red Violet? The spreadsheet did not really help that much as I don't really have that many of the other ranges there either. I mostly have Army Painter and a lot of older (15 years +) citadel, gamecraft and other such randomness. I hope the Citadel Fire Dragon Crimson (from the earliest round pots with flip top caps -I poured all my old paints in to dropper bottles a couple years ago.) is close enough. Seems like it should be ok based on the colour in the spreadsheet. It is a reddish violet any ways. And really old. Hope it still is useable or else I will have to mix something up. And of course, Ebonwrath was undercoated black ages ago, as I undercoated everything black in those days. As pure black is one of the permitted colours, and the black will for the most part be painted over, I think that should be OK. So the challenge is to paint Ebonwrath with ONLY these three colours, with black and white permitted for mixing. no other colours, no inks or quickshades. This should be different...
  20. For the Company of Wolves: A real live one: This is the 77437 Winter Wolf from the third Reaper Bones kickstarter. And about the size of a horse, so I think of it as a werewolf’s full wolf form. Or a Dire Wolf as needs be. Miniature sculpted by Sandra Garrity. Bespoke 50x25mm 3D printed base. and the real dead ones Two pairs of 77533 Dread Wolves from the Graveyard Expansion from the Bones 3 KS. One pair brown and one pair grey. Ended up rather samey…Too dark perhaps. Bespoke 35x25mm 3D printed bases. In the immortal words of Lord Flashheart: "Woof Woof!"
  21. The minis from The Gluttony Expansion for The Others 7 Sins boardgame. aka The Greater Deamon of Bloated Body Horror. I call him Tetsuo. 40mm base. and his little mini me’s, the Abominations: I call them the six little pigs. 25mm bases. The Controller of Gluttony I call her Leeloo. 25mm base. All of these are made in board game plastic / Rigid PVC The Others 7 Sins is published by CMON / Guillotine Games with miniatures by Studio McVey.
  22. Today saw the completion of the three Void Sorcerors: Womma Womma Womma! All my thin pointy brushes have given up on life and chosed to split, so I am struggling abit with thin lines these days. While waiting for some new brushes I have ordred to arrive, we get a bit shoddy with the freehand symbols such as in these books. It should still be possible to make out which symbols I have tried to paint in each of them though. I hope. These are from the “Masters of the Void Deluxe Enemy Pack” for Shadows of Brimstone, the Wierd West lovecraftian horror scifi mashup dungeon delver. This pack also includes the three Void Hounds I did a few weeks ago. So that completes the minis from that expansion. The void sorcerors are on 30mm bases, and are made from HIPS polystyre aka “hard plastic”.
  23. Oh yes. It just had to be done: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaMIg_q4LeY If you have seen the TV-series or the comic The Strain, you know what inspired this Evil Bloodsucking Chocobo of Death! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7MDGTWb5Dw 62110: Numenera Ithsyn Reaper Bones KS2 Bonesium PVC 40mm base
  24. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  25. The Thing. Last seen on an Antarctic research station…At least that is what this makes me think of. So naturally, I painted it in fleshy tones to make is as horrid as can be. Strange plant life around here… Now, start rolling those Sanity Checks. 77521 Gravewailer Reaper miniatures Bones 3 KS Mythos Expansion Rigid PVC / Bonesium 40mm base
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