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Found 205 results

  1. For your perusal, Rasia w/ Spiked Chain and Dain Deepaxe: Dain was the last mini I was able to paint before packing up about three years or so ago, and Rasia represents my return to the hobby, as seen in this WIP thread. The latter suffered some paint loss on her left leg upon removal from the mounting base, visible here before being patched up. Rasia was also an experiment with the Red Hair triad. Overall, I’m pleased with the results. While I’m still a beginner, these two are a far cry from some of my early attempts.
  2. The Kickstarter is live: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1138228733/moonstone-fantasy-skirmish-game/description This one is for a skirmish game featuring their wonderfully fantastical minis many of which are available in either metal or resin.
  3. Finally finished the Gravewailers. Bought two ages ago and then the Bones 3 Mythos ex-pack had one. So I waited until I got the third one before painting. Seems I started on them ages ago. But things kept getting in the way to finish. Including my cat who decided they were delicious to nibble and suck on. Rather then doing in pink and reds. Decided I wanted to go for something a little more alien and starspawn like. So tried to make them purple with the look of bluish light showing from within. Trying to get that alien Lovecraftian feel of something beyond explanation. LOL think I need some sleep. Hopefully not about anything Lovecraftian :)
  4. The dwarf is the 5th figure that I have painted from the old Grenadier 2007 set. It was so hideous that I never posted it, partially because I didn't really like the figure and just slapped some paint on it to call it done. I mean, those eyes were just sculpted circles. I filled the center with color, edge highlighted the raised outer edge, and then went around them with a shadow color. If you are an aspiring sculptor... never ever sculpt eyes like it is 1980. But I was talked into posting it, so blame 72moonglum and Volksfest for the horror. For scale, here is the dwarf between and Infinity Nomad and a Reaper bugbear. Knee-capping is her only option.
  5. Today (well technically yesterday, but since I haven't slept yet it still counts as today) I decided to take a break from my 54mm mini and paint something quick and easy. None of the Bones were speaking to me, but then I saw my unpainted Grenadier Females staring at me and remember that I had planned to paint the set this year. I grabbed the "thief-sling" basically at random and sat down to get to work. It would appear at first glance that she should be a relatively straightforward mini to paint, but there was a complication. This poor unfortunate woman was lacking a face. Sure she had a jawline, and cheekbones, and even a nose, but there was only the barest hint of where lips should be, no eyes to speak of, and to make matters worse there was even a casting defect going down from where her left eye should have been and onto her cheek. This and a few other defects were filled with brush on sealer and it was time to freehand some true 25mm eyes! Except that I didn't quite get enough sealer over the defect which made the freehand a bit off. The after painting sealing is a bit satin, which is fine for everything but the hair which lost all subtlety. To keep the theme from the previous ladies going I outfitted her in only the finest 1980 colors, and deliberately made a effort to use paints that I rarely grab off the shelf. This makes four out of ten taken painted and sealed. Maybe the other six will have their own paint days before the end of the year? My valiant attempt at freehanding eyes over a defect. And lastly, I realized that I've never taken a shot with a coin to show off how tiny the minis I'm painting are. Wow, she's smaller than the coin!
  6. Hey all, I looked for a thread about this but didn't see one. Anyway, what do people prefer to paint, metal or plastic minis? I just started painting and have only done plastic. I've seen pictures of some metal ones and they seem to have crisper details. I see they offer both options for a lot of minis on the reaper store, wanted to see what people think? Thanks!
  7. A few people asked me how I painted the rust for my Ogre Commander so here is a tutorial. For this tutorial I dug through my Bones 3 to find something that had a large expanse of metal to properly show the technique I use. My genius husband grabbed the iron maiden. Perfect! You can use this on any metal that you want to rust but I wanted something big so everyone can plainly see. So the first thing I do is paint the metal just how I would if I weren't messing it up. I used gunmetal as my basecoat. I usually end up with three thin layers to make sure I have opaque coverage. I mixed dark brown (the same one I will use for rust) into my gunmetal and shaded. I used my painting lamp to determine shadows and highlights for this one but you can decide where your light source will be. I then mixed in more of the brown and did my darkest shade. (You can shade yours however you like, I just chose brown this time, I could have easily have chosen dark grey or purple!) I then used silver to go in and hit the "hot spots" where it would be the shiniest. I do not use my brightest highlight, which I use Vallejo Metal Medium usually, when I am going to muck up my metal. I let silver be the highest highlight. I use P3 Umbral Umber, Army Painter Chaotic Red, and Army Painter Lava Orange for my rust colors. This just happens to be what I have on hand but any dark brown, deep maroon, and bright orange will give you similar results. I do not use a nice sable brush for this technique. I am going to be dabbing and splotching and would ruin a good brush. I use a brush that is already past its prime that I keep around to do dirty work like applying washes or mixing colors. My husband couldn't figure out the focus so all of the next photos were blurry. I dip my brush in the umbral umber and drag it out leaving some paint behind on the palette. I do not want thin paint for this nor do I want my brush heavily loaded. I don't want the paint to run and I want to have control over how much goes on the mini. I splotch the brown on where I want the rust to be. I google images of rusted armor, rusted wrought iron, or whatever I am working on to see how the rust might form on different things. I can use these as guides or just put the rust wherever I think it looks good. I do try and keep some "rules" like I think rust forms along the edges where moisture would settle and around bolts and rivets and hinges. Continues in reply....
  8. Amazingly, this only took me two weeks to finish ! I think the major challenge to this Miniature is the paint choices, and figuring out how you are going to base it. Lots of thought went into those two factors. I selected regulation heraldic colors and stuck to the rules of using them. I had fun playing with application, and layering on of the colors. While it looks simple, just for the record "It Ain't" ! So here is the Otter Knight with Sword and Shield by DSM. Hope you enjoyed my efforts, and drop me a note. Love to read what you have to say all the time. Thanks. Jasonator
  9. This has been one long term challenge paint job! Assembly has been a bear, AND the sword with arm just wants to bend at every touch. So get sets for some tough going in the glue up stage. The painting has been fun, especially when I switched color schemes mid miniature :) The blue black, sapphire black, Ruby red scheme had orange added to the mix. I also changed from a plain base to a mountainous base, with shrubbery ! Lots of changes you can do. Had a blast in the long run. Hope you enjoy the results. Leave me a note please. Here are some photos. Jay
  10. I was looking for something else, when I saw the Goblins in the Bones III Kickstarter. Those guys are pretty epic. I have been working on a set of goblins and do have some Bones and Metal minis of the existing Goblins. I vastly prefer the newer sculpts (the football head ones with all the sharp teeth) but for the display set I have in mind I'm wanting to get metal versions of all of them. Will the Goblins in Bones III be made available as metal minis some time in the future? And is there a general way to tell on other types of figures? I can understand not having the Dragons translate across due to weight and size, but are there some things that make it into metal and some that don't?
  11. Well; It has taken me a bit longer to get these mini's assembled and painted. It is such a joy to look at one completed. I went with the white horse because the color is so difficult. I used red just to experiment with the color on the surcoat, and gold for the emblems just because they are small and I wanted them to stand out. So here is Tom Meier's Sir Tristan (on Horse and On Foot). Hope you enjoy the efforts. Jay
  12. About this project Seet update #1 for details. Extraordinarily versatile, the Tablebreaker has as many uses as you can imagine: Express your individuality at work or home! Use it as a gorgeous, eye-catching desk display! Spruce up your game room with a colorful, themed accent piece! Incorporate your passion into your living space with a sleek bookend or mantle decor! With options for both Standard and Countdown number orientation, the Tablebreaker is the perfect life-counter that all your friends are sure to envy! The Tablebreaker was designed from the ground up with 3D modeling software; this allows us to ensure the greatest manufacturability and quality control. The Tablebreaker is then precision machined on a multi-axis CNC mill using a solid billet of 6063 architectural aluminum. After machining, the dice are color anodized to MIL-A-8625 specification. Finally, each die is etched using a CO2 laser. This process selectively removes the anodization and exposes the aluminum underneath to reveal the numbers on each face. Why Architectural Aluminium (6063)? Aluminum has a superb strength to weight ratio, making it the ideal material for a beautiful, yet durable display piece. Architectural Aluminum (6063) facilitates the most vibrant anodize colors. It’s always been our goal to bring you beautiful gaming accessories with as little risk as possible. Before launching this Kickstarter, we invested a lot of time, money and effort to make sure it was possible to bring our vision to life with a quality that we're proud of. During our testing, we’ve found that in order to maintain a flawless finish, a small, shallow hole needed to be made in the otherwise solid block of aluminum to allow the die to be hung during the anodization process. We worked tirelessly to incorporate this into the overall design for a beautiful and complete finish. We solved the design change by adding a second hole, and incorporating them into distinguishing markers for the 6 and the 9. Our final product will feature two small, flush, stainless steel accent screws to complete this modern look.
  13. I was wondering what kind of alloy the figures are made of. I want to have one coated in vantablack, but I don't know if they can withstand 300° temperatures unscathed. For those who don't know, this coating reflects virtually all light and makes anything appear 2D. Perfect for making shadow minis if this works.
  14. I'll just say Yay it is great to be back. I thought that I would never get to paint again. Start, stop, Illness, has been a nasty pattern going on. I finally (knock knock) got the bugs knocked away. I thought he was finished weeks ago, I was wrong and finally I came to a conclusion after I redid his base. So he's done. Like the rock base he has on him, and the the little accent marks. Friends have been picking him up and asking where I got the patience from...I've just been laughing. So after a great deal of time, Here is the Mouse Bard. Let me know what your thought. Jay
  15. Just wanted to post some pictures of a few figures I finished up recently in an effort to clear off some of the stuff that's been gathering dust on my paint table, so they'd be ready for the game table. I'm not 100% sure of the identity of each of these figures other than manufacturer. The first is an old Heartbeaker Hobbies and Games sword-woman. The second is a pirate from Eureka The third was some sort of witch or sorceress (I can't exactly remember), from the Deadlands game.
  16. A little something I picked up from my FLGS's discount bin; this 54mm scale mummified minotaur comes with a choice of horns and pole-cleavers to attach to an otherwise simple assembly. Here are the parts laid out before priming. I still struggle to decide which horns and weapon to build him with. Using one means not using the other, after all, but I figure they'll find another place to go eventually.
  17. <<<MOD>>> Link to the Live Kickstarter: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dgsgames/eclipse-sisterhood-freeblades-fantasy-miniatures?ref=category_newest From DGS Games, "We will launch the Eclipse Sisterhood kickstarter campaign on the afternoon of February 14th 2017. This project will produce the six core models of the faction: leader, caster, two heroes and two followers. And as many stretches as our fans help us reach! For the Traazorites, that was four models. Let's show the Empire these fierce women can do even better!"
  18. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1013086270/mushimen-attack?ref=user_menu
  19. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/141301719/fenris-games-rise-of-the-draugr Somewhere off in the mist comes the sound of creaking timber and leather, accompanied by a low wind and the first traces of a stink of dessication and decay. As the wind buffets the fog into damp shreds, shambling figures begin to appear in the middle distance - some as big as a man, some of them much larger, hulking forms. The shuffling becomes a rhythmic marching as ancient tendons and rotting muscles keep time and hurry the dead towards you through the swamp. Behind the giant humanoid forms now appears something still bigger, fouler, and more ancient - an armoured rider slumped in the saddle of the huge, decaying wyrm as its ragged head seeks to feed on the flesh before it... Fenris Games have been producing scenery and miniatures for tabletop gaming for 9 years now as well as working with other creators on renowned projects such as Cthulhu Wars. We're a two-man band of professional modelmakers with 30+years background in industrial, museum, architectural, film & TV work who now focus those skills on models for your wargames and RPGs, and we work with a huge pool of freelance sculptors to create the kind of models we use for our own tabletop. We're creating a small range of heroic scale (28mm) white metal and resin undead miniatures for your dark-age armies - including a huge zombie dragon centrepiece model. Kickstarter will allow us to make production moulds for all of these models and will ultimately lead to a widening range of minis and scenery to suit these settings. Sculptors Jo Brumby and Tim Prow (lead sculptors on Cthulhu Wars) have already sculpted all of the models included in the basic pledges - and will add more all-new sculpts if we hit our stretch goals.
  20. Decided to do a quickie for the Marie She-bot from Metropolis. Went with the burnished metal look and a quick sculpted base to resemble concrete. The eyes didn't come out as piercing as I wanted, so might have to quickly revisit that
  21. It’s lighter, innovative, yet beautiful and functional. Starting from the CUBBLE Dice concept, stripped it from everything that made it metal heavy. Only the essential part was kept: the PIP display - the new HOLLOW dice is built on a groundbreaking idea, and it’s ready to be yours. We have completely overhauled the traditional D6 dice again, producing a die unlike anything the world has ever seen. Made of anodized aluminum, this dice has no inside, making it an empty shell. An inverted version of dice that we already funded successfully, this dice weighs just 1.5 grams, making it perfect for anyone who loves tabletop and dice-based games. Processing these dice requires a lot of time and multiple steps. Not to mention that the die is so easily bent during the machining process, we need to pull together some additional resources for this dice. Making manufacturing more of a challenge for us. More about this project on kickstarter.com and search "Hollow" or click here
  22. Nan is completed. Thanks for everyone's input from the WIP I did. This is something much much different that I usually would do. I went out on a limb, and am very happy with the results. This is experimenting out on the ledge for me. I actually had no idea what I was getting into! ROFL. The sculpt (being a Meier) is exemplary, and astonishing. I wanted earth tones in this mini, and I was keeping her grounded in many ways. I was trying to amp the emotions that were displayed, and get that in focus. No hero with bow, shield, sword, or mace; just an old lady with her convictions, and keeping in focus what it all comes down to. I did utilize the autumn leaves, fresh snow, and a piece of manipulated bark as the stone to tell a story. I really like what this says to me. Here is "Old Nan" as I see her. Your comments and critiques are most sought for, and respected. Jay
  23. Completed

    https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/584137481/tag-28mm-halfling-militia-rooster-rider-miniatures/description I backed TAGs last KS for their Dwarves which went nice and smoothly and has delivered to everybody before the due day (last few shipments just going out but they'll be in peoples hands before June which was the target) The minis were well cast and nice and characterful so if you need some Halfling chicken riders (or just some riding chickens) or some of their existing Halfling militia on foot which can also be selected as a reward get your pledging card out and jump in
  24. Right. So, I've been mumbling about this for a while. For me, this is an Ambitious Project (sezzhe who's done a Goblin Challenge). But I don't usually do bases, and I don't paint past 'table top', so ... this is gonna be a thing. This is a Thing I might both enter - if I can get myself to Reapercon - and will definitely be a gift. I have an uncle who's favorite mythological critter is centaurs, and I'm painting it for him. So, here's in her blister, bits and mold-lines and all. Glue's drying on her cork, post cleaning. I let that cure for a good long while, because her footprint is pretty small. ... actually, 'pretty small' doesn't quite cover it. Here we have her post-priming, with her new base in the background. No, I wasn't planning on using the one she comes with. ^^; And, here we have basic colours slopped on. Well. Slopped... It's not as good a picture; I'm having to pick angles because she's pretty nekkid, other than her quiver. Obviously, she's going to be a dark bay on the horse-end. I have some pictures to work with, but she might be less red when I get done. I'm sort of thinking of a specific mare while doing this, and she was a dark bay.
  25. I have been working on Brave Sir Robin Scaredy Cat Most of the week. As I am wont to do; this DSM is a real difficult assembly, and the assembly has to be done in two parts. Since he is holding his shield over his head, you will never paint face, or complete shield if you attempt to glue first. I know that I will be using green stuff on this one already. (shield is going to be a problem with attachment). Anyway. Here is the way he is coming together. I've been working the tabby backwards.. As I add one component after another, it wants to be darker by another step. So I just keep on mixing more darker tabby colors. The Red should eventually pop. Thought I would show how I am doing the more difficult Dave Summer Mini. Here are some photos. Comments, critiques, suggestions are very welcome. Jay