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  1. I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here. Bones - Frequently Asked Questions Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.) Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (this document) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference One of the revolutionary features of Bones miniatures is that you can paint them straight out of the package. Because this is such a departure from recommendations for painting metal or resin miniatures, it is understandable that this feature raises questions and concerns for painters unfamiliar with Bones. Painters familiar with other types of miniatures will find that there are some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves, or that there are painting techniques or substances that require a little tweaking to use as a first coat on Bones figures. The Bones material is a little hydrophobic, meaning that it tends to repel water. Paint diluted with water, sometimes even just a little water, may display a tendency to bead up or pull away from crevices or higher raised areas. The more water added to the paint, the greater this effect. The first coat of paint applied to the surface can also take a little longer to dry than usual. The image on the left is a Bones figure straight out of the blister, the one on the right is a primed Dark Heaven metal miniature. Each was painted with a brushstroke of Master Series Walnut Brown paint of various dilutions. From right to left: undiluted; 1:1 paint water ratio; heavily diluted. On the Bones figure, the stripes painted with diluted paint display beading and pulling away, but the stripe painted with undiluted paint covers smoothly with clean edges. Once you apply a first coat of paint, primer or other appropriate surface preparation to a Bones miniature, you can freely use paint of any dilution and the full array of painting techniques! Painters who prefer to use thinned base coats, those who like to start with a dark wash over white primer, and those who use black or custom coloured primer need not despair! The following information will help you find ways to tweak your preferred techniques to work with the Bones material. It also includes information about brands of primer, paint and other substances that are known to work or not work well with Bones, and tests of the utility and durability of certain of these products on Bones. Slightly Thicker Paint Will Not Obscure All the Sculpted Details For years painters have been reading tips and tutorials that exhort them to thin their paints so as not to obscure the detail sculpted into their figures, and to obtain a better quality paint job. While it’s definitely the case that using excessively thick paint can affect detail and paint quality, I think it is also true that some people are worrying too much about this in regards to painting Bones. Reaper Master Series and Master Series HD are produced with a consistency pretty close to ideal for base coats. Several other miniature paint lines are produced in a similar consistency, or require only a small amount of water to reach the correct consistency. Two or three layers of such paint will not clog up all the detail on your model. Also, remember that when you paint metal or resin miniatures, you normally paint over a coat of primer. One layer of undiluted paint on a Bones miniature is equivalent in thickness (if not thinner) than one or two coats of primer on a metal or resin figure. The picture above is of four Bones bases. The tiny text relief sculpted into the bottom of these is a perfect way to test whether paint coats obscure small detail. Each of these bases was given four coats of a substance, and then brushed over with a paint wash to bring out the detail. (The bottles of paint and primer used in this test were fairly fresh, no more than a year or two old.) From left to right, the bases were coated with four coats of undiluted Master Series Pure White, four coats of undiluted Master Series White Primer, and four coats of undiluted Master Series Brush-On Sealer. I prepared a second base with the Brush-On Sealer as the wash didn’t quite turn out on the first. The word ‘Miniatures’ has lost a little detail on the base coated with four undiluted coats of paint, but apart from that both it and the primer coated base still have excellent detail. The text is still mostly legible on the bases coated with Brush-On Sealer, but some detail has been obscured. Wash Bones Figures Before Painting Many people find that the paint is less likely to bead up if the figure has been washed. Also, if you’ve had your figure out of the blister for a while, or you’ve handled it to remove mould lines or otherwise prepare it, you should clean it before painting, as it probably has dust and skin oils on it that may repel paint or cause paint to chip off after it has dried. All you need to clean it is some dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush. Give it a scrub, and then rinse it really well to get off all the soap. Let it dry before painting. (You can hurry up the drying with a hairdryer set on low.) Black Primer? Custom Colours? Paint One Coat of Paint over the Entire Figure First! Some painters prefer to paint over black or gray primer. Others start with a primer of a particular colour to speed up painting units. For example, you could paint a coat of khaki on a unit of modern army figures and be half way finished painting their uniforms. One way to get the same effect as a dark wash over white primer on Bones is to first apply an all-over coat of white paint, followed by a dark wash. (Keep reading for other ways to do washes directly on Bones.) Some Primers Work on Bones Traditional metal or resin miniatures need to be primed before any paint is applied. Paint applied over bare metal does not adhere well, and rubs off with even light handling. Primer etches into the metal on a microscopic level. Paint adheres well to primer, so using it forms a stronger bond. Bones figures do not suffer from this issue! Acrylic paint painted directly onto the Bones surface is as durable, if not more durable, than if you use paint over primer on Bones. If you still prefer to use primer, Reaper’s Brush-On Primer works well on Bones, and is available in black and white. Another product people sometimes ask about is gesso. Fine arts painters use gesso to prepare canvases for painting. Some people have experimented with liquid gesso as a primer for miniatures, Bones and otherwise. People have reported it working in terms of creating a surface that you can paint thinned paint over. Reports vary as to how durable the material is, so it may not be the best choice for miniatures that are going to be handled. For those who prefer to use spray primer, the best option is to use an airbrush to apply a coat of acrylic paint to the Bones figure. Reaper Master Series paint thins well with Golden or Liquitex Airbrush Medium, and maintains its strong adhesion, though I have found that adding airbrush medium does noticeably increase the drying time of the paint. Aerosol spray primers and some spray paints can have some issues with Bones (and with other plastics). The chemicals in some of these primers and paints do not react well with Bones. The main effect seems to be that the primer never completely cures, remaining tacky to the touch. Some will also fail to form a bond with the Bones material. The following is a list of aerosol paints and primers that people on the Reaper forums have reported testing on Bones. Please consider the list just a guide. The best idea is to test your chosen spray by using it on a small Bones figure you don’t care about a lot. After you give the spray time to cure, carefully look over the figure to make sure the chemicals in the spray haven’t reacted with the Bones material to melt or otherwise damage it. If not, test the primer surface by touching it to see if it stays too tacky to paint over. Also, flex parts of the figure to make sure the primer doesn’t crack. Note: Some people have successfully used Krylon primer, and possibly other spray primers that some people have reported as problematic. And other people have reported problems with primers that some felt worked well. One difference seems to be that a light spray rather than a heavy coating is more likely to minimize tackiness. Environmental factors such as temperature and humidity are also always a big variable with any spray product. Recommended aerosol spray primers and paints: Army Painter white and coloured primers Krylon Dual Paint + Primer Duplicolor Sandable – slight tackiness possible Rust-oleam Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2x – slight tackiness possible Problem aerosol spray primers and paints: Krylon white primer – doesn’t bond, stays tacky Testors Enamel flat black – stays tacky Walmart Valu flat white – stays tacky Krylon Primer red-brown – stays tacky Citadel spray Use a Medium to Thin Your Paint or Make a Wash Water is the element in thinned paint that causes it to bead up on the Bones surface. If you try thinning your paint with a dilutant other than water, you may be able to create a mix that is closer to the consistency you like to paint with. Depending on what you use, you can even create something translucent enough to act as a wash or glaze directly on the Bones. Mediums designed to work with acrylic paints are good products to try. Examples are matte medium, glazing medium, airbrush medium. Reaper’s Brush-On Sealer can be used this way. Note that many of these products are a little less fluid than water, so they may not dramatically change the consistency of the paint (it’ll still feel a little thick rather than watery, but it will look a lot more transparent). You can also test adding just a drop or so of water to your mix of paint and medium to see if you can get closer to the consistency you prefer. I diluted some Master Series Bone Shadow with various mediums to make washes. From left to right, the products are listed below. Master Series Brush-On Sealer: I added one drop of water to a large drop of paint and several drops of Sealer. Worked well. Liquitex Matte Medium: A thick product. I added a drop of water. Beads up too much to work well for a wash. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Another thick product, I added a drop of water to my mix. Took longer to dry than the others. Did not sit in crevices well enough to work well for a wash. Very shiny finish. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Applied well, dried quickly. Even application of the colour. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Worked decently, seems a bit more inclined to pool in the crevices with less colouring on the surfaces. Shiny finish. ADDEDUM (not pictured) Golden Acrylic Flow Release (undiluted): Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Shiny finish. Reaper Flow Improver: Applied well. Took a little while to dry. Finish is shiny in areas where wash pooled. Use a Medium as a Primer Because of how well acrylic based products adhere to the Bones material, it is also possible to use mediums as a primer alternative. Once dry, you can paint over them using thinned paint. These are applied by brush, or possibly with an airbrush. I tested a number of different brush-on products on some Bones Cave Trolls. These were straight out of the package and had not been cleaned. After the products dried, I applied a thin coat of paint to see how it behaved over each product. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer: Exhibited slight pulling away from some high or curved surfaces, though generally it just required running the brush over that section again to establish coverage. Dried quickly. Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer: No significant beading. Dried quickly. Paint was less durable than with the other products, see the durability testing section for more details and pictures. Golden Airbrush Medium: Bubbled a bit when applied, thin enough to pool a bit in depressions. Took more than 40 minutes to dry. This product works well if you use a drop or three to thin paint down for a base coat, although it does increase the drying time slightly. Due to it drying time, this is not the best choice as a primer alternative or for thinning washes that will be applied directly over Bones. Liquitex Matte Medium: Somewhat thick. Minor beading and pulling away. Significant beading when thinned with water. Dried quickly. When paint was applied, there were still some mild occurrences of paint pulling away from higher/curved areas. Liquitex Glazing Medium: Pretty thick consistency. Dried fairly quickly. The paint coat still beaded a little. Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium: Dried fairly quickly. Paint went on quite nicely. Also works on metal miniatures. Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer: Dried quickly. The paint layer exhibited slightly pulling way. Folk Art Blending Gel: Extremely thick. Beaded up too much to use. Not pictured as it worked too poorly to continue to the testing stage. Speed Paint Drying with a Hairdryer Whether on a Bones or metal miniature, if you find that your paint is taking too long to dry, you can speed up the drying by using a hairdryer on the low setting on the paint. If the paint you’re drying is a wash, you should let it dry naturally for a little bit, or you risk blowing the paint out of the crevices and depressions you want to darken. Testing the First Coats for Durability Once you get your paint applied, you want to make sure that it stays there. In my experiments, the most durable Bones miniatures are those where the first coat applied to the miniature is undiluted Master Series paint. Several of the other substances I tested were pretty close in durability, but it should be noted that there were a few that performed poorly. I painted these ghosts in August 2012. They accompanied me to Gen Con and Pax Prime 2012, stored loose with some unpainted Bones in a plastic container I carried in my backpack. Their travels included a six hour car ride and return plane trip. At the conventions they were handled extensively by dozens upon dozens of people, including being tossed on tables. The paint jobs were stressed pretty much equally through the Gen Con trials. The ghost painted only with Reaper Master Series paint was handled a lot more than the others during the Pax Prime trials. The ghost sculpt has some thin and thus particularly bendy areas, most notably on the hood and where it meets the tombstone. I flexed these parts by hand repeatedly to additionally stress the paint. Unfortunately I chose poor colours to easily be able to see all the damage in the photos. After the first coat I used painting techniques of thinned layers and washes with no difficulty and with the same effect on each of the miniatures. From left to right the first coat on each miniature was as follows. Undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint: Displayed the least damage during the Gen Con trials. Following Pax, has some chips at the flex point on the hood and near the tombstone. Was handled a lot more than the other figures. Reaper Master Series Brush-On White Primer: A few very small chips at the flex points, and some paint has scraped off a few sharp protruding areas. (Edge of the hood, finger tips on one hand.) Dupli-Color Sandable White Primer Spray: The unpainted base stayed slightly tacky to the touch for weeks after priming. The figure has several small areas where paint was scraped off, but only one chip on a flex point. Testors Dullcote Spray: This product created a good surface for painting, but performed very poorly in the paint durability tests, and I would not recommend using it as a primer substitute if you plan to use your Bones for gaming. Chips formed on the major flex points early in the Gen Con testing, and the paint has flaked off extensively from there. The figure also has some small areas of scraping damage, but those are no more notable than on the Brush-On Primer or Dupli-Color figures. I wanted to perform a similar test with the other surface preparation products I tried. First I painted on an additional coat or two of paint. Then I placed the figures loose in a plastic box with some other Bones, a wooden, MDF and plastic base, and a metal figure. After wrapping the box in a towel secured with rubber bands, I put it in my dryer on the air setting for 10 minutes or so. The green painted areas on each figure are those that were painted over the primer alternatives. The brown painted areas are Master Series Paint directly on the Bones surface. (These were part of tests for methods to remove mould lines.) The brown areas on each exhibit very little damage. Some have none, some have a few small chips or scrapes. (However it should be noted the brown area of this sculpt has far fewer surface protrusions than where the green was painted.) From left to right: Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer White; Reaper Master Series Brush-On Sealer; Golden Airbrush Medium; Liquitex Matte Medium. Three of the four show pretty similar levels of damage. The figure painted with Brush-On Sealer as a primer displays the most paint damage of all figures tested in this series. From left to right: Liquitex Glazing Medium; Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium; Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer. Damage levels are pretty similar to the better performers above. The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium and Liquitex Glazing Medium performed the best of the seven products tested. (The Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium performed better in terms of acting as a primer, and is inexpensive, so would be my recommendation between those two.)
  2. At my friendly national chain home improvement store I found they sell mismixed paint colors at deep discounts. There I bought a 8 oz.(237 ml) sample pot of premium interior/exterior flat "paint and primer in one" for 50 cents. So I'm experimenting with using it as a primer for Bones. I will report on how it goes. In the meantime, feel free to discuss your budget alternatives.
  3. Have to have a laugh in both humor and happiness after finally pulling my finger out and making a paint shaker out of a old jigsaw and a clamp. Did it mainly to give my Reaper Paints a good shake. But at work had a realization that I can use it to shake all the old pro paints I have squirrelled away in the hope I could do something to get the old paints back again. The jigsaw shaker has resurrected paints I thought had long died. Am SO freaking happy. Some paints had settled so much they were just pigment and liquid. Heh all fixed up now. WOOT! Only downside is that it is a bit loud. Am sure my neighbors must think I am doing a hell of alot DIY atm LOL Anyhoo that is all. Had to share.
  4. Hello and welcome to the Repository of Paint Arcana! After all this time being here on the forums, I've come across a lot of excellent tips and innovative methods for using paints, and I've been trying to collect what I can for my own use. I thought that it might be a good idea if we all had a central thread where we can post all the interesting things that we've come across. While the majority of posts would certainly be about Reaper paints, I welcome suggestions about any kind that you have. Know a paint that would be a great base for a certain colour? Post in this thread. Know a mix that makes a really vibrant hue? Put 'er right here, pardner. Got a link that shows steps to make a great effect? That's right, you know where it goes. I know that every one of you has something cool that you've come across, and I would urge to to put it here. 09124 Adamantium Black: If you use this to highlight a black basecoat, it serves well to make things look like a beetle carapace. Tamiya X-27 Clear Red + UHU Glue= Bloody gore Also, A nice little tip from our illustrious @Mad Jack: These are just examples but feel free to give the community any great tips that you have!
  5. Well the New Year gets me thinking of years past and things to do in the coming year. So I think it is high time that we resurrect the New England Paint Day. For those of you unfamiliar with the New England Paint Day, it is a get together of like minded individuals; to paint, share techniques and to just have a plain old good time. On to the debate. As this is a New England Paint Day, we have to figure out the location. In the past, they have been hosted by individual painters and at game stores. I can set up a time with Pat at my FLGS (Citadel Games Cellar in Groton CT) or I can host at my house depending on the number of people. For those who were at the last CT paint day, the Citadel has moved down the street to a new location and has much better lighting this time around. I am open to other locations if it is more convenient for the majority; someone else would just have to step up and procure a location. Right now I should be good for most weekends up until April. So, who's interested?
  6. In the near future I am looking to buy some additional paint. I have the skin tones, so after that, what are the Best 20 Reaper Paints in your humble opinion? Don't feel that you need to list 20, (except that 20 is the appropriate and perfect number... according to these forums and Goblinized Mathe). I also have all of the available liners, so no need to include those as "best". I won't argue that they are... because I love my liners... just looking for paint colors that I NEED to have.
  7. Right then, I've put together a list of some paints from Reaper that I plan to order this month (so that I can get that sweet, sweet 25th Anniversary model on the down-low). This is my first serious plunge into their paint line as I've really only ordered some paints for red hair - both natural and unnatural - and for a failed project in the distant past. The question is as follows: does this list of paint below encompass a fairly large scope for creating pale skin tones? Master Series Paint - Tanned Skin Triad - 09043 - Tanned Shadow 09044 - Tanned Skin 09045 - Tanned Highlight - Fair Skin Triad - 09046 - Fair Shadow 09047 - Fair Skin 09048 - Fair Highlight - Vampiric Skin Triad - 09274 - Vampiric Shadow 09275 - Vampiric Skin 09276 - Vampiric Highlight - Miscellaneous - 09062 - Leather White 09432 - Desert Sand 09436 - Bleached Linen 09447 - Undead Flesh Master Series Paint HD 29822 - Suntan Flesh 29823 - Caucasian Flesh 29824 - Maiden Flesh 29850 - Elfin Flesh Any advice or guidance would be appreciated.
  8. So I just dropped nearly 100$ at my FLGS on reaper master series paints, only to discover upon closer inspection that they are actually pigments. I'm a beginner/moderate painter, so I didn't quite realize there was a difference. After conversing with one of my more hardcore painter friends, i'm even less sure than I was before. He tells me that the pigments are different from the paints and that pigments are usually only used to tint paints, but then i went to the website and saw that everything there comes in the same kind of bottles with all the same names. It seems strange to me that reaper would sell only pigments and not paints, and now I'm very very confused. So let me just pose this simple question: I purchased this bottle, and many others like it: Can I paint my Bones minis with this and some water? and as a follow up question: Did i just bone myself out of 100 bucks?
  9. I put together a few documents related to using Bones. I've submitted these to the Craft section of the website, but as it may be a little while before Reaper has the time available to add them, Bryan suggested that I post them here. Bones - Frequently Asked Questions (this document) Bones - Preparation (mould line removal, glue, putty, etc.) Bones - The First Coat is the Difference (primer, primer alternatives, paint durability) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bones Miniatures: Frequently Asked Questions What are Bones Miniatures? The Bones material is a polymer plastic. It is light-weight and slightly flexible, and is very durable. You can paint a Bones figure straight out of the package, and that paint job will also be pretty durable. Bones figures are as detailed as metal figures, for a much lower cost. Bones miniatures are produced with integral (built-in) bases, but it is easy to cut the miniature off of the base if you prefer to put it on something else. It is also easy to cut the figures apart to convert them into different poses or change weapons. What is the bare minimum I need to know to start painting my Bones right now! If you want background on why these are the recommendations or what other alternatives might also work, read the rest of this document, Painting Bones Miniatures: Preparation and Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference. Remove Mould Lines Remove by slicing just under the mould lines with a hobby knife, in a similar motion to paring vegetable or hand-sharpening a pencil. Files work best if you file in one direction, then remove burrs by filing in the opposite direction. Reshape Bent Parts Dip the misshapen piece in boiling water for a minute or two, remove and move into desired position, then immediately hold in ice water for a few minutes. NOTE: Read additional information in this document for safety recommendations! What Glue to Use Superglue aka cyanoacrylate works best to glue Bones to itself or other materials. What Putty to Use All major brands of putty tested work with bones. (Green Stuff, Milliput, etc.) What Works as a Paint Stripper Soak figure in Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush. Best Primer None. Start with a first coat of undiluted Reaper Master Series Paint, then paint as normal from there. This is the best choice for durability and a good painting surface. Other acrylic paints that work with miniatures should have similar results. Paint can be applied with a brush or airbrush (diluted paint seems to work with an airbrush.) Best Primer if You Want to Prime Anyway Reaper Master Series Brush-On Primer in black or white, or Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium (also brush-on.) Best Spray Primer Many aerosol primers will not cure completely on Bones. Reaper forum members have reported good results with the Army Painter sprays. How to Do a Wash Directly on Bones Thin your wash with one of the following mediums and just a small amount of water if necessary: Master Series Brush-On Sealer, Folk Art Glass & Tile Medium, Delta Ceramcoat All-Purpose Sealer. Can you really paint Bones miniatures straight out of the package? Absolutely! However, if you’ve ever painted metal, resin or plastic figures in the past, you may notice some differences in how the first coat of paint behaves. Paint diluted with water (even just a drop or two for a thinned base coat) may bead up and pull away from crevices. The more water you add to the paint, the more you’ll notice this effect, so water-thinned washes used directly on the Bones material don’t really work. That first coat of paint may also take a little longer to dry. Most people find that the paint applies a little better if you first wash the figure. Just scrub it with a little dish soap and a toothbrush and allow it to dry before you start to paint. Another alternative is to apply a primer or another surface preparation that works with the Bones material as the first coat. Once you get that first coat on, you can use highly thinned paint in subsequent layers and it should behave pretty much the same as on any other figure. For more information, methods to use thinned paint directly on the Bones surface, tips for quicker drying and a list of primers that do (or don’t) work with Bones, please see the Craft document Painting Bones Miniatures: The First Coat is the Difference. What kinds of paint work on Bones Miniatures? The Bones material is designed to work with Reaper’s Master Series and Master Series HD lines of paint. Internal testing and feedback from customers suggests that Bones also works well with the other major miniature paint lines, including Reaper’s discontinued Pro Paints, Vallejo Game Color, Vallejo Model Color, Privateer Press’ P3 Paints, and Games Workshop. Artists’ acrylic paint are also likely to work on Bones. However, please note that Reaper does not offer any guarantee or assurance that the Bones miniatures will work with any particular paint other than Master Series and Master Series HD. You are advised to test your preferred paint on a Bones figure to decide for yourself how well it works. If your paint does not work well on bare Bones, you can prepare the surface with a coat of Master Series paint and it will likely work over that. How do I remove the mould lines from a Bones figure? Like all miniatures, Bones figures have small mould lines as a result of the manufacturing process. You do not need to remove these to paint or use a Bones, but many people prefer to remove them for aesthetic reasons. You can remove these with the same tools you would use on a metal figure – hobby knife, files, and/or sandpaper. However, you may find that you need to use these materials in a slightly different way. Hobby knives work best if you slice under and along the mould line in a paring motion rather than scraping them along the mould line. With files and sandpaper, file in one direction perpendicular to the mould line. If you find you have burrs of material remaining, lightly file those off moving the tool in the opposite direction. How Durable is the Bones Material? Bones figures are remarkably durable, and not just in comparison to metal and resin figures. People have dropped Bones from a height of one storey, ground them underfoot, driven over them with a car, carried them loose in backpacks and pockets, and they’ve sustained no damage. The light weight of the material means drops and falls hit with much less mass behind them. The give of the material means it’s much better able to absorb impact, where a brittle material like resin will likely break. They’re not indestructible, but they can take an impressive amount of damage. We had several Bones figures out at the PAX Prime 2012 convention for people to examine and abuse. We bounced them off the floor, and invited dozens of people to step on them. One of the small kobolds with narrow diameter legs did break at one ankle on the third day. Another figure suffered a very small area of damage due to the friction generated by someone’s shoe grinding it across the floor. If Bones are so durable, is it hard to cut them up for conversions? What glue should I use? The Bones material cuts easily with a sharp hobby knife. Cuts have smooth edges and do not deform surrounding material as often happens with metal. So it is an easy matter to swap a head from one figure to another, or cut off an arm and reposition it slightly so you can customize individual figures within a unit. All it takes to glue them back together is regular superglue (cyanoacrylate). You can also use superglue to adhere Bones to metal or wood. Green Stuff and other two-part putties work well if you need to fill gaps or sculpt on additional details. Pinning is a good idea when attaching metal parts to a Bones miniature, as the added weight of the metal will otherwise make the join weaker. The plastic parts are quite stable when glued together, but pinning doesn’t hurt in plastic-to-plastic conversions, either. How durable is a painted Bones figure, though? Bones miniatures painted with Master Series and Master Series HD paint are surprisingly durable. You probably don’t want to grind one underfoot or drive over it with your car, but you’ll be amazed at what they can handle. Figures are unlikely to experience notable damage to the paint from regular handling, bumping against each other on the table, or getting knocked over, even when playing with the most ham-handed of players. My painted test figures survived being tossed unsecured in a plastic box with a bunch of unpainted Bones that was carried around two conventions (PAX Prime and Gen Con 2012). They were handled by hundreds of people and literally and repeatedly thrown onto tables from heights of several feet. They have some dings and chips, but the bulk of the paint jobs survived. The paint on these figures had not been coated with any sort of protective sealer. The durability of other brands of paint may vary. I have not done the same sort of extensive testing with other brands of paint. In my limited testing of how well other brands of paint apply to bare Bones, I did notice that Vallejo Model Color paints seemed to rub off the figure pretty easily. I did not notice that happening with the other brands I tested. (P3, Vallejo Game Color, Pro Paint, Adikolor.) Can you remove unwanted paint from a Bones figure? Sometimes painting a figure doesn’t go exactly as planned. If you would like to strip the paint from a Bones figure so you can start from scratch to paint it another way, just drop it into a dish of Simple Green Concentrated All Purpose Cleaner for 12 – 24 hours, then scrub it with an old toothbrush and it is ready to paint again. Some paint colours may leave a stain on the Bones material, but should not leave any texture or affect subsequent layers of paint. Simple Green in an eco-friendly cleaner sold in most hardware stores and some grocery stores. Brake fluid also works, though is a much more toxic material. Are Bones figures less detailed than their metal counterparts? Bones figures are bright white, which makes them hard to photograph. A number of people who have lacked confidence in the product quality based on the photographs in the online store have been pleasantly surprised by them once they can look at one in person. However, there are also a few people who feel the quality of the Bones is a little less than that of their metal counterparts. When available, Reaper’s online store includes photographs of painted versions of the figures that may give you a better idea, but looking at Bones yourself in person is really the only way to find out how you feel about them. I compared one of the smaller Bones, Dwarf Warrior 77011, against his counterpart, Fulumbar 14146, under magnification. The only real difference I noted between the two was that the texture of the chainmail loin cloth and the laces on the gloves were a tiny bit shallower on the Bones figure. You can see a comparison of a Bones and metal figure of the same sculpt painted identically in this thread on the Reaper forums: http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/47477-bathalian-bones-vs-metal-challenge/ Do Bones have sharp edges on weapons? Weapons and the like on Bones figures are cast at pretty much the same thickness as similar parts on Reaper’s metal figures. However, since Bones is a flexible plastic material, you will never be able to shave or file down an edge or a point to the same sharpness that you can achieve with a metal figure. Are the photographs of Bones figures in the online store and catalogue the same figures as the ones for sale? The online Reaper store and catalogue photographs of Bones miniatures are taken of production run figures – the same figures that Reaper packages up to sell. Can I do anything about a bent spear or sword on a Bones figure? You may find that sometimes the thinner parts on Bones, like spears and swords, will look a little bent. Or the figure might be leaning back or forward too much on its ankles. If you want to straighten those out, hold the figure with tongs or in a colander, and dip it into boiling or near boiling water for at least a minute or two. Remove it from the water, reposition the part, and immediately dunk it into a bowl of ice water for at least a minute. It should hold in the new position. If you expose the figure to heat at a later time, it may revert to its original position. For this reason, if you want to wash the figure with soap and water prior to painting, you should use cool water or wash it before you heat it to reset a warped part. Important safety notes: Please exercise caution! The Bones material may get hot when dipped in boiling water, so you should use protective gear rather than touching it with your bare fingers. The Bones material might be damaged or damage your pot if placed in direct contact with the pot surface. If you are under the age of 18, please ask your parents for permission and have them read this section before boiling Bones figures. Are Bones made in China or the United States? All Bones figures made prior to March 2013 were produced in China. In March 2013, Reaper installed the machine necessary to produce Bones in its factory in Texas, and began the process of transferring production in-house.
  10. Right then. I'm looking to switch to Reaper paints from Citadel for various reasons and would like to know if there are any tips or tricks for doing this. I figure this forum is the best place to ask. Plus, I like you people already. Y'all are my kind of people. Well, most of you. Except that one person... I've gotten a spreadsheet off the intertubes that has a rough guess about colour matches for the two ranges (including a few others, too) so I know which paints are similar. I'm going to continue to use Citadel's metallic and shade range as I'm used to the former and the latter are better than anything else I've seen barring what I can create - that is, unless someone can convince me otherwise. Here's my biggest problem: I own most of the range from the other company. I think I'm missing two colours out of the bunch. Should I bother switching at this point? Am I too far in to do this? It's not like I'm running out of paint every week - those paint pots last a while in this house - so replacing them as they get used is going to take a long time. That's fine, I guess. I just want the shiny new stuff now. Other than replacement, is there anything else I need to know to ease the process? Blocks of 54 paints at a time seems reasonable enough but, then again, this is coming from the guy that buys all the models for one solo campaign just to switch to another setting. That level of "reasonable" is what you're working with on this query. If this isn't in the right place for this post, please move it / delete it / kill it with fire. I'm still figuring the in's and out's of this particular forum. (I did notice there was no reception table in the lobby, though.)
  11. While fixing up the hobby room for the fiancee we came across the age old problem of Not Enough Places to Put Things. She likes to do acrylic canvas painting and I like to use the craft paints for terrain so we have a bit. We both like seeing what colors we have available as we work on a project and I wanted something that wouldn't clutter the work table or take up valuable shelf space. We've got several big windows in the room and while the natural light is great, the limit the amount of shelves we can have. I opped to try and make use of some of the dead space created by the window frames. 1-1/2" standard Schedule 40 PVC pipe fits the standard 2oz bottles well. I used a band saw to cut the pieces quickly. I used a fence to make sure all the pieces came out the same length. (marking it out >150 times would have been a pain) While quick, my saw left some debris. A quick twist with some 60 grit sandpaper took it right off and put a very slight bevel on the edge. All sanded and ready to go. Did a quick test fit with a bottle of paint and tried a few layout options. My goal was to fill the trim board on either side of the windows with storage tubes. Since we may sell the house some day I didn't want to mount the tubes direct to the trim. I opted to attach the tubes together, letting most of the weight sit on the table and then use a small metal bracket in the top side of the window trim which is often unpainted because nobody looks up there. I wanted something that I could pop off easily if I got sloppy with with the glue so I laid everything out on a piece of concrete board siding. It had the added featured of it was flat, had a straight edge I could line the pieces up on and I could draw out my trim dimensions so I knew what area I had to fill. I used the same glue that is used to glue the pipe together for plumbing. The stuff I get for work happens to be grey. You get what you pay for when it comes to glue so don't scrimp.Just don't get the stuff that is for wet or submerged pipe. It will literally push your parts around. Since I knew we were going to paint the whole thing I didn't care what color I had or if the printing on the pipe was visible. I made marks with a sharpie to show where the pieces touched so I'd know where to apply the glue once I picked it up. It also made sure I had the glue covered portion in the right spot when I put it in place. Got all my ducks lined up, Just gotta let it dry over night. I could actually pick it up after an hour but I wanted to give it plenty of time to fully set up. I ended up adding one more row after this picture to get it close to the top of the window trim. After everything was painted I screwed a small strip of metal to the top to let me screw it to the trim. If you look at the top of the center organizer, you can see the metal bracket. It is bent in an L shape so the screw is in the top of the trim, not the front. The larger units are done with 4" drain pipe (Thinner wall=cheaper per foot) One coat of glue made them stick together but I had to do several more coats to get some structural rigidity. I just used standard pray paint to cover them.
  12. So for a while now I've been incorporating the dark elf skin triads into my washings and shading quite a lot depending on the colors, but they are becoming kind of common for me. Does anybody else use them for the same purpose? Just curious....
  13. So I've gotten into OSL and I wanted to find some MUCH brighter paints and I've always wanted them. So what do you guys prefer? Any recommendation? My search has only included those from Reaper: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Bright
  14. So, I'm currently working on painting up Wyrmgear. I'm going for a brass, bronze, gold color; I've got several different MSP metallic paints so I decided to test them out to see which ones looked good or I could use for some TMM shading/highlighting. So I ran some lines of each color on a piece of paper. knarthax was on the hangouts and he said that other people might want to know the results so I snapped a quick pic with my phone. Here are the results. The cross at the top is Clockwork Brass (horizontal line) over Drillbit Metal. Both colors are very close to each other which is surprising as they look very different wet on the palette. I hope this helps someone. If needed, I can take a picture with a better camera and better lighting sometime later.
  15. So I have a bottle of Burnt Umber paint I bought a while ago and no matter how much I shake it it comes out very watery like a wash, is it supposed to be like this or did I get I bad batch, or something else entirely?
  16. Hello all, I'm new to the forum, but have been following a few threads for painting help and inspiration. I'm currently working on painting my first two models after following a number of tutorials (Hot Lead, Forums etc.), and I'm using the Master Series Core Colors Set #1 (108 paints) which is a fantastic set and has pretty much all I need as a beginner. I've got quite a few minis that I plan to paint, and I can't help but wonder what I'm missing with some of the other MSP sets, particularly this one: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/paint%20set/sku-down/09957 Does this effectively "complete" the entire MSP collection of colours following Set #1? Are there additional colours and sets that have been released since then? Also, generally speaking, what does this set add to Set #1 in terms palette and products? It'd be nice if there was a breakdown for each of Reaper's paint set offerings, to understand completely what they contain, what they add to your arsenal (complimenting other sets, general purpose or specific function) etc. I'd love to know what I'm missing and where else I should invest in expanding my paint collection. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Also I'll post some WIP soon (although I'm close to complete so I may just post the final result). Cheers! -Finn
  17. Okay so, we got a new person in my gaming group and he wants to learn how to paint, simple enough. Right? Except he asked me to teach him and in my ecstasy I said, YES. Then I realized I have no idea how to teach someone how to paint. So, that's a minor problem. I would ask my father but in many ways I have surpassed his painting skills (not bragging, or at least not tring to) and he gets kinda grumpy when I ask him about stuff. Thus my dilemma, I don't want to send my friend to a video or whatever because it's easier to learn from a live person. So, help?
  18. Due to some awful circumstances I lost my entire Reaper set of Bones III Kickstarter figures and my entire set of Reaper paints. This caused me to step away from the hobby for awhile, due not only to not having paints but I felt a little heart-broken over the whole thing. (Mostly my paints, I had spent years building up my set of Reaper paints including some of their awesome limited edition ones they gave away during events.) However, it is time for me to wallow no longer and a trip to a local shop this past weekend has had me purchase some paints to jump start my passion for the hobby again. In the past I have only ever used Reaper and Citadel paints (Citadel paints are freaking awful, the way the yellows dry up after you've barely used them once... might as well be tossing money at a brick wall) so am keen to stick with what I know. I have however just purchased some Vallejo and Army Painter paints and washes due to the fact that no-where local stocks Reaper paints in store. I am avoiding Game Color paints as well because although my local store stocks them I have heard nothing but bad things about the stuff. I just purchased a few Army Painter tones and the Vallejo skin tone set. (The skin tone set has some handy dandy how-to inside as well.) This is enough to let me get a few licks of paint on some minis I have on hand but I am doing some research on the most cost effective way to restock the diverse inventory I had in one foul swoop. I've been looking into various Reaper sets (are the triads no longer a thing any more?) and am tossing up between the 'building your own paint set' and the pre-packed Reaper Master Series Bones Paint Complete Set: https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/set/sku-down/09966 I just had some fun in Photoshop pasting together swatches of all 54 colours in the set for easy reference: This set is $184.99 for 54 paints, which is $3.51USD per bottle, the same price as the 'build your own paint set' for the same number. That's $4.68AUD which is still cheaper than the $6 for Vallejo paints I can get at my local gaming store. Given that I don't use metallic paints much at all and I am fairly set for skin tones I suppose it would be better for me to build my own paint set. In that vein, are there any colours that anyone really recommends I get? A colour you personally love and find yourself running out of more often than not?
  19. I'm a big fan of Vallejo acrylics and similar, in convenient little dropper-bottles, but they suffer from the same issues that almost all paints do, and that is that the pigments tend to settle out of the medium. They have to be stirred or agitated to mix the two components to get good, even coverage. I've shaken the bottles manually for years, but I finally got sick of that and decided to go for a mechanical solution. This is a very cheap jigsaw. Brand new, it cost me about twenty-five bucks, but if you're even stingier than that, they're easy enough to come by second-hand. I wrapped the blade with multiple layers of masking tape. This serves several functions: I'm less likely to accidentally cut myself (or anything else) It provides a visual guide as to where the blade buries itself into the body of the machine. A paint bottle can't go below that point or it will be knocked off as the blade oscillates. It provides a fairly good non-slip padded surface to keep everything in place while the saw is running. I considered attaching some rubber non-slip mat with double-sided tape, but I haven't found that necessary — the masking tape appears to do the job adequately. I experimented with various means of attaching the paint bottles — rubber bands (too fiddly), little spring clamps (OK, but too small a contact area, and they tended to crush the bottle) — and finally settled on this one. It's a simple paper clip with a long curved barrel that provides good, firm attachment. I haven't yet had a bottle come free using this. For best results, one should add one or two agitators to each bottle of paint — short lengths of pewter sprue work well. But I've got a lot of bottles of paint, so I tend not to bother except with especially problematic mixes. This thing will give me the equivalent of half an hour of manual shaking in about 30 seconds, and it generally does the job just fine. One note: I've found that vigorous shaking sometimes seems to pressurize a bottle of acrylic paint slightly, probably due to bubbles forming. If there's paint in the neck of the dropper, this can cause a small volcano of paint when the bottle is opened, so I've taken to whacking the bottle base-down on my workbench a couple of times after shaking just to clear the dropper before opening.
  20. A while ago someone posted about Ral Patha Fire Glow paint. Just used it on this Water Elf Naiad guy. Just wanted to post something to show it off. Don't get a chance to use it that often. Is such a beautiful metallic that is so vibrant. Shame that the pic doesn't really show the reddish pink undertones in the paint. Kind of a mother of pearl effect. If there is one paint I wish Reaper could reproduce this would be one of them.
  21. Something to excite all you brushlickers out there. http://www.iflscience.com/chemistry/this-new-shade-of-blue-was-accidentally-discovered-by-chemists/
  22. Hey guys back again with the mighty Deathsleet. I decided to go crazy with colour to make this dragon stick in peoples memories! I decided he would definitively be a Gold dragon in my campaign but have powerfully magic charged wing membranes! So here we have it the gaudy gilded Deathsleet! I had an absolute blast painting this great mini! As always your comments are wanted and appreciated!!
  23. Hey guys my submission for today is the cool Reaper Vampire! He wasnt a complicated model to paint I had fun and hope you love it he is a great addition to my ever growing Dungeons and Dragons campaign! As always comments are wanted and appreciated!
  24. Hey guys back with the fearsome Frost Wyrm!! I painted this guy in semi traditional colours! I really hope you like this one and as always comments are wanted and very much appreciated! If anyone wants to add me as a friend I would be honored! I love to discuss painting schemes!
  25. Hey guys back again and this time I painted the mighty verocithrax this amazing figure was very exciting to paint I decided to emulate Koi carp in painting the dragon I feel it fits well! As always comments are wanted and appreciated!