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Found 14 results

  1. Sophie was taken

    Brush-On Primer and Sealer

    I’ve got some of both these products, but I’m not sure exactly how they’re supposed to be used. I’ve tried the primer a few times, but compared to spray primer it’s very liquidy (not a surprise, since it’s a liquid). The issue is I don’t know if it is being properly applied or just running off into the cracks. It doesn’t turn the metal white, but I don’t even know if that is supposed to happen or not. Am I using it correctly? As for the brush-on sealer, what is it for and what does it do? I’m assuming it goes on at the end, and if that means I don’t need to buy yet another aerosol product, that would be swell.
  2. SparrowMarie

    Sealer and Bones?

    I'm looking for a spray on sealant that won't make bones all sticky. I'm going to be applying some decals to my TARDIS and would like them to stay put. Any advice/recommendations?
  3. I seal my miniatures with Liquitex High Gloss Varnish through an airbrush and then do a matte coat. Last year, I put a number of figures away sealed with gloss but did not get around to putting a matte coat on them. Figures were primed with Badger Stynylrez, had several paint brands used on them and washed with an ink/liquitex medium/flow improver/slow dri home made mix. Some of these figures were Reaper Bones, some were not. They were all kept in a display case that, while not airproof, does keep dust out and is not in direct sunlight. The metal, resin and hard plastic figures have cured just fine and are not sticky at all. Even the bases of the bones figures, which are green stuff or plastic are not sticky. Only the bones figures themselves have become tacky. Some are barely sticky, some are so sticky I can press my finger to them and life the figure up without fear of it falling. I don't know when the problem happened, but the figures were sealed at various points last year and some had no issues for at least weeks after being sealed. Other bones painted at the time that were not sealed do not have this issue. The problem seems to be some kind of reaction with the bones material and the liquitex high gloss varnish that happens through the primer/paint. I've only read up on issues with them becoming tacky when aerosols that react with the bones material. I'm concerned if I matte them, the tackyness will just come through again. I had some issues with the same problem with Liquitex High Gloss and bones a few years ago when I started using it. After some change in application/use I eventually got it to work without issue (or at least with no immediate issue.) Has anyone else experienced your bones becoming tacky months after being sealed with no issues beforehand? Any idea why it is happening or if there is something I can do to fix and/or prevent it?
  4. I have seen folks talking about Badger airbrush primer, and speaking highly of it, but the local Michael's doesn't have Badger paints.... I saw that they had a 2 oz bottle of Testor's Aztek Clear Matte, picked it up for about $5... The bottle has an agitator in it!!! Can hear it rattling around when I shake it... Has anyone used this stuff? Either as an airbrush sealer, Brush on sealer, or as a matte medium? Seems to be my night for asking this type of question.... Thanks George
  5. Was at my local walmart and noticed that the Pledge with Future floor polish seemed to be missing, then I noticed this: seems like they have changed the name and packaging again. this one did say that it was formerly pledge with future on the back.
  6. So I've been looking for a good sealer for a while and while I've found one I'm happy with the thought crossed my mind that prepainted miniatures (D&D, Mechwarrior, Mage Knight etc) have a rather amazing sealer. I've tried to scrape paint off of several in the past and have had no effect. Anyone know if it's just the sealer? Some combo of the paint they use that interacts with the plastic? Have any theories?
  7. I've been encountering some problems in a search for a new varnish. Mostly on leftover sprues that I've painted up just to test varnish. I started painting off and on again last year and eventually decided I had enough of spray sealers and wanted to go brush on/airbrush. I haven't moved on to the airbrush stage yet as I've been having problems actually finding a varnish. I've got two that seem to work well for the gloss coat, Liquitex High Gloss Varnish and Vallejo Gloss Varnish. Occasionally a coat will stay very slightly tacky after it has dried (multiple days). Sometimes (but very rarely) it dries just fine. At first I thought it might be my wash, as I'm following instructions to make Lester Bursley's washes. After some testing I did realize that with too much brushing the ink can reactivate, but doesn't always cause the tacky problem. I give the paint multiple days to dry before sealing. I've tried very thin layers, thick layers, watered down layers, multiple layers etc and all have the same, occasional problem. The gloss coat is just occasionally slightly tacky. Now this isn't super tacky, just to the point that when I press down with a finger it will stick to it for a second or two then fall off (longer when it happens with bones, due to their lightness). Even the ones that don't end up tacky exhibit this, but fall off almost instantly. Also, after they have cured, if I leave a piece touching another piece for a few days they will stick to each other slightly. I never had this problem with sprays. I haven't been able to find any problem like this online. Is this something inherent in the formula of gloss brush ons that sprays don't exhibit? Is it likely to stop if I airbrush it on? Putting a satin/matt coat (also liquitex/vallejo brush on) over the gloss does reduce this stickyness drastically, especially in the ones that are particularly bad. It only completely eliminates it in some of them.
  8. I've read a lot that people like to put a glossy coat on first for strong protection, and then cover with a matte finish to reduce the shine. (It seems clear to me that Testor's Dullcote is the clear favorite for the matte finish. I've recently ordered a can of this.) I plan to handle the minis I paint a fair bit, so this seems like a good idea to me. I was in a craft store recently and wanted to get a gloss coat and ended up picking up a can of Folk Art Clearcote extra thick glaze and a can of Folk Art Clearcote Acrylic Sealer Matte finish. (At the time I knew Testor's was the favorite, but hadn't found any in store.) Both Folk Art cans claim to be good on minis, and I've seen the brand name tossed about in a few contexts, so I chose these. Now I'm second guessing the "extra thick glaze" as it sounds like it might be a bit heavy. I was wondering if people had any experience with this, and/or any comments, opinions, or advice to share. If people don't think its a good idea to use the folk art, is there any consensus on the best product for gloss coat? My local store happens to have the Testor's gloss coat in stock, but not the Dullcote. Thanks!
  9. animesensei

    Sealer on Bones

    I just started painting minis with a LTP kit and then my Bones 1 KS minis. I have a bottle of Reaper brush on sealer and also have some matte finish spray. I paint my minis with mainly Reaper paints (and some Citadel). Should I put a sealer coat on? Or does the sealer crack due to the bones being a little bendy?
  10. So I've had great experiences with MSP brush-on sealer and will I suspect continue to use it for most minis. However, I'm now working on a diorama starring Ebonwrath as a silver dragon, and the large base plus huge wingspan is going to leave me a lot of surface area to cover. Can anyone recommend a spray sealer that: Works well on bones. Won't heavily dull the shine on metallics. Works well in humid environments. (I live in Houston. The rainy season is coming.) If there is no such thing I'll tough it out with lots of brush-on sealer, but I'd like to know if I have options.
  11. Ok, today I got my Reaper Bones, and painted my first miniature ever (Cave Troll)! So after painting it (with P3) I got my Krylon Matte Sealer ready, and looked up how to seal miniatures online. I read that I should use a gloss coat first, then matte. Now, as I only have matte, is it ok just to use matte sealer by its self, or do I really need a gloss coat? I have also read about "frosting." How can I prevent frosting?
  12. So, my dwarf looks like she got blasted by Takhisimat's white dragon head for a handful of d6's. I sprayed it with some matte sealer from The Armory and she frosted right up. It's been about 20 hours and it hasn't cleared at all. I did a search and read that applying some gloss sealant then re-applying matte sealer may fix this. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  13. Hey, all, I had a few questions pertaining to a mini I'm painting up for the Reaper Open competition. This is my first competition, so I'm not expecting to blow away the competition, I just want to give it a shot and paint a mini to the best of my ability. A few questions, though, that I'm hoping I could get some help on. 1) I've read the ReaperCon open rules, and it looks like you just bring the mini to the competition and sign it up there. Have I missed anything? 2) Is it generally considered good or bad form to post work-in-progress shots around here (in the appropriate forum) for competition minis? I'd definitely like the feedback, but I don't know if people generally try to keep their projects a secret. (I'm not likely to be using any super-secret techniques that need hiding from the eyes of the world, of course.) 3) Do you seal competition minis? I'd be worried about ruining a nice paint job, and they're not really going to be handled much, yes? Thanks!
  14. 72moonglum

    09107 brush on sealer

    Hi all, Quick question: I was in Kansas City this weekend and visited a hobby store there, Tabletop Games. Really nice place and they carry the full line of Reaper paints. I got a brush on sealer 09107 because I'm running out of the Vallejo stuff I had. So the question is - is this Reaper sealer a flat, matte finish or does it have a shine to it? Thanks, Mark
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