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Found 55 results

  1. Retro Raygun robots, quick paintjob, sometimes simplest is bestest, just used reaper pure silver and washed it with armypainter strong tone ink. then did some detail work with a few other colors.
  2. Nearly done with these I think. I haven't had to do a big batch paint for a while but will do that to get all the orcs and goblins done from the Zombicide Green horde kickstarter. I started off with Army Painter spray paints, necrotic flesh with a light pass of greenskin, or vice versa. Then immediately did a wash of green and purple ink mixed together. This batch has dark red clothes with khaki leather. Will change that on the other batches. What I need to decide (c and c welcome) is whether to do another wash on top or much highlighting. Bases will be an attempt to match/reference the board so flagstones, grass, broken wood. And blood. Also, why do I keep humming "I want it (that way)"?
  3. Disciple of Sakura

    Origins Speed Painting Entries

    So, I went to Origins this weekend and entered the Reaper Speed-Paint. I was only supposed to be at the con on Friday and Saturday, but I paved on Friday and won my Saturday semifinal, so I called in sick on Sunday so I could compete in the finals, where I managed to pull off a win. Friday was the scarecrow, Saturday was the hobgoblin, and Sunday they gave us the Jungle Titan. I'd already painted two of the three before, which certainly didn't hurt when it came go time. I didn't get a chance to get pictures in my photo studio before heading out on vacation, so these are the shots I took with my phone at the convention. We had 45 minutes in round 1, 50 minutes in round 2, and a whopping 60 minutes in round 3.
  4. Crowley

    Crowley's Blightfang

    With my bride away on a work trip this week, I decided to try to squeeze in a kinda big project... and after dithering about what it should be, I settled on painting one of my many Bones dragons. Blightfang was actually a main antagonist in a D&D campaign I ran a while back... so that's the one I decided to paint! Tonight was spent scrubbing him down, after he'd spent the day soaking in soapy water. I partly glued him together, and then got painting with Green Liner. I'm only partly assembling him, so that I can more easily access the harder to reach spots. Also the back legs don't fit well into the base he came with, so I'm thinking that I might need to make my own out of cork... And this was supposed to be a quick project... we'll see how I do.
  5. Have had to rush some minis for our ongoing Dnd campaign, Hoard of the Dragon Queen. Am not the DM but paint the minis. All Reaper Bones that started with Army Painter ink washes in one colour over the whole thing. Then using Vallejo paints as base layers and finishing off with another ink wash to tie things together. The Drakes are "young fire dragons" with the wings cut off. With more time I would have sorted out the two stumps where each wing was. The Lizardman is standing in for a troglodyte and the Lilies are standing in for Violet Fungi. The cultists are just the Mythos / Cthulu cultists. There is a roper as well. Can really recommend lining Bones with ink as a liner which I know a lot of others recommend. The whole lot took 3 hours so it is a quick way of getting things onto the table.
  6. After converting Ingrid to better match the character she's going to represent (giving her a bow and rapier), last night I got to painting. I started with thinned down brown liner, then went straight to the eyes with Linen White. Surf Aqua was used for her irises, and brown liner for the pupil. I painted her flesh with a 2:1 Warrior Flesh: Linen White mix. Her hair is Blond Shadow with highlights of Tanned Leather. Her lower lip is a 1:1 blend of her flesh tone with Old West Rose. The armor, gloves, boots were painted with a thinned Rich Leather. The bow and scabbard are painted with a mix of Brown Liner and Rich Leather. Her cloak was painted with Mountain Stone, and then washed with a 1:2:2 mix of Grey Liner: Mountain Stone: Flow Improver. Because I want to bring her to game on Wednesday, and don’t think I’ll get any more time to work on her between now and then, I picked out the end of the scabbard and the tips of the bow with Dragon Bronze, and gave the base a quick wet brush of Redstone Shadow. Not bad for a night's work...
  7. Each of these took me about two hours to paint. Pretty happy with how they turned out, but I was going for more if a woven grass look on the hobgoblin but don't think I actually achieved it.
  8. Chaoswolf

    77342 Zombies

    I speed painted these zombies probably a month ago, I just haven't been in the mood to take pictures or hobby since I finished 'em. Well, I had a pretty good day yesterday, and I think my mojo might be back, so you get some pictures. I think I spent about 7 hours on them as a group, and they're painted to a tabletop level. Thanks for looking.
  9. Paradoxical Mouse

    Storm Troopers

    So, Mr. Mouse joined me in speed painting some of my Imperial Assault Stormtroopers. Mr. Mouse's batch Pretty impressive, given he's only painted about 2 minis before, and we only spent 2 hours tonight. My Batch All in all, we have 7 Stormtroopers painted! Mr. Mouse was awesome to spend time painting with me!
  10. Paradoxical Mouse

    77506 Kobold

    Kobold speed paint! From Bones 3.
  11. I speed-painted these over two afternoons to be a party of NPC adventurers for an eclectic mash-up of Exalted and the World of Darkness. They are 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke). WIP thread here.
  12. This was an experiment in HQ speed painting using thinned, semi-opaque paint over zenithal priming. In all it took about 8 hours including the base (damn chipped vase already!). Pretty happy with the results, and now onto the other 30 big monsters...
  13. My GM needed a party of NPCs fast for a game of Exalted set in the World of Darkness (think fantasy characters popping up in a modern day world, more or less). There was no time to order anything, but we had the handy new Bones III core and Mythos sets. These are the Bones minis 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and as a free bonus 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke), who was simply a "Vale Swordsman Elf Grunt" in metal (she was the first character picked for the one represented by Kassandra of the Blade, and I painted her up anyway as an extra and useful figure). I painted these really fast -- for me -- in two afternoons, one to prime and paint faces and one to paint the rest of them. It's not quite my one-hour robot speed paint, but for me it was super fast and the results are more tabletop-quality than my usual run. First I washed and primed all the Bones with Reaper's Brown Liner. I did not clean flash up as much as normal owing to the tight deadline. Skin work, using simple mixes of earth pigments plus white: Burnt Umber (for the darker skin tones), Burnt Sienna (for the pinker, lighter skin tones), Red Iron Oxide (for really pink skin) ,and Yellow Ochre plus Titanium White. Hair was laid in with the same palette plus Carbon Black. Rough shading with ruddy Burnt Sienna-Titanium White shadows and greyer Burnt Umber-Titanium White shadows. This character, a former Fae, has dramatic blue-streaked hair. This is a classic mix of Phthalocyanine Blue and enough Titanium White to make it opaque.
  14. Laoke

    77514 - Iron Golem

    Hi, long time no type! I've been waiting for the Bones III figures to arrive specifically for this figure, because I wanted to try an old technique I used to use - Tamiya Clear paints over a metallic base. This is pretty much a speed technique for armored figures. It took me about an hour (not including time to let coats dry) to: Prime the figure using Reaper Blue Liner Base coat with Vallejo Model Air Steel Wash with Reaper Steel Wash Drybrush with Vallejo Model Air Silver Finish with Tamiya Clear Smoke over the top (this is effectively a tinted gloss sealant) Dot the sensor holes with Reaper Pure White & add two coats of Reaper Clear Red over the top The base is Reaper Concrete glazed up with Reaper Stone Wash used for definition. It's delibrately very clean - I could scuff it up and make it look a lot more worn, but I like the clean lines for this figure.
  15. This is Patrick Keith's 50246: Marie, She-Bot, famous from the old Fritz Lang movie "Metropolis," and two other robots Johnny Lauck sold adjacent to his sci fi Salvage Crew. I painted them up in less than an hour. WIP thread here.
  16. I'm putting together a monstrous warband for frostgrave and I did a quick paint of these three bones today. 77148: Damien the hell born wizard as my apprentice 77036: medusa as an archer 77198: barrow rat as a war hound. This last was a super quick paint as I finished the other two. Dressed the gorgon/medusa with knife and paint, so she's Sfw. Still, I'll spoilerize the pics: i want to include the horned hunter I did as well in this warband. Still not decided what to use as my wizard and other band mates. I want to try to keep an even gender ratio, but there are very few monstrous women and the few that are out there have a hard time keeping their clothes on.
  17. So my husband is running a game this Saturday and he asked "Do you have any robot figures?" and I said "Ummm, let me get back to you." Happily, I had on hand a copy of Patrick Keith's 50246, "Marie She-Bot" familiar to film aficionados from Fritz Lang's seminal "Metropolis". I also had a handful of little robots from Johnny Lauck's Salvage Crew. So I glued them together and primed them and painted them very simply with metallic paints. The whole thing took less than an hour. For metallics I use the principles I learned for gilding: Everything has a color underneath it, usually a rust-red for gold and a black or grey for silver (or aluminum or palladium -- I never could bring myself to gild with something that could decay as fast as silver leaf). I originally planned to paint the Metropolis robot gold, so I primed her with Red Iron Oxide. Then I did the same with a little monkey-robot from Johnny Lauck (ignore the two little guys to the right; I didn't get further than this with them and I plan to paint them like plastic anyway, if I get to them before Saturday). Then my husband pointed out that if I painted the Metropolis robot silver she could stand in for a Moonsilver Alchemical later on. D'oh! ... Okay, so now I was going to see what silver paint looks like over brick red. For science! I washed over the two red robots with dark paint to bring out the details: Burnt Umber on the little monkeybot, as is normal for under a warm color like gold. But then I used straight Carbon Black on Maria She-Bot since she was going to be cold silver, and black generally looks cold under other colors. I notice that she looks just like the Chinese lacquer sculptures I've seen around, a point worth remembering to try some other time, perhaps. I also painted black primer on the servo on the left, another Johnny Lauck 'bot. I had to glue that one to a fender washer as it had a tendency to topple over to its left; otherwise its base had been the same size as the other Lauck robots. That's also why it appears now; its glue was setting while I was priming the others. (Once again, ignore the two on the right.) I then took my good #2 Winsor and Newton series 7 brush and drybrushed silver metallic paint onto the armed servo Lauck 'bot and Marie, She-Bot. ... I find using good brushes helps give a lot of control and evenness, even for this. This wasn't the really scrabbly kind of drybrushing anyway, more like stroking tiny amounts of unthinned paint over the high points of a countoured surface. Anyhow, you can see the different color effects based on what went under the silver paint, black on the left and brick red on the right. You can also see the detail level difference between Johnny Lauck's sculpt and Patrick Keith's. Then I did the same thing, only using gold metallic paint, to the Johnny Lauck monkey robot. I painted their bases solid black. Normally I like a base with at least a neutral grey with shadows, but I was in a hurry and the black contrasted better with their metallic shininess. I also added a few details, red eyes on the Lauck robots and a glowing yellow inside the armed Lauck bot's gun barrel (Which I see I didn't take pictures of. Need to fix that for the Show Off thread). And there you have it. Really really fast quick and dirty robot painting. Total painting time: About forty minutes. (With prep time, work time is probably an hour, or a smidgen more)
  18. This was a speed paint I did in an attempt to paint faster and not overthink my miniatures. I had painted fhe base previously. Boris took and hour, my NMM attempt took 40 more minutes.
  19. So, was bored and wanted to paint something to take along for my GenCon trip as a Prize for some DDM Guild events. So, I saw the Planetar from the most recent DDM set and thought, it had a cool pose and a bad paintjob! So I decided to try and fix that. The Wings look a lot better in person. Also, whoever thought that style of Flying Post was a good idea should most likely be fired and never allowed to be in change of miniature anything ever again! Took about an hour and a half to paint it. GF
  20. I went to reference one of these minis in another thread and I found I never posted them up here. Looks like I stopped taking photos of my speed painted minis. Usually I do try to take a picture of them before I do touch ups. But these are so old I have no idea if I did touch ups on them before I took the photos or not. However, I leave them here for your enjoyment. Each was painted at GEN CON in 45 minutes, with a communal brush and a limited selection of Reaper paints, and whatever light conditions where at the time. (Bright sunlight is usually the worst actually) *(Note, I think the painter cat is Impact... but it's been so long, I can't remember anymore!)
  21. knarthex

    JR Miniatures 25 mm WWII Tents

    So I finished these up with some quick Drybrushes and washes, followed by dullcote and flock.... Astrid the Chronicler is standing in for Sir Forscale.... George
  22. My Iron wind speed paint. He was just a little guy but I liked him. However I was disappointed when I accidentally over washed him in black and it darkened his purple and red scales too much so that you couldn't really tell the colors. Normally I don't add any more paint a mini that's done, but I felt I needed to add some more purple when I got home to bring him closer to my original "vision".The "Before's" The "After's" I may base him up some day if needed but for now this is what he is.
  23. I just finished up two Reaper Bones Mountain Trolls (SKU 77333) at tabletop level to play with at our D&D table. They are fitted on 2 secret weapon resin bases I got out of one of my bags of crap. Anyhow, C&C are always welcomed and appreciated, thanks for looking!
  24. ub3r_n3rd

    Speed painted slimes

    Real quick speed paint using inks. Just to get them on the table. Some slimes I picked up at the LVO earlier this year.
  25. At the Origins Game Fair last month, I took part in Reaper's speed-painting contest. I hadn't painted much all year because of a new job, but I wanted to jump back into painting with some necessarily fast work. Cheryl (LadyStorm) ran the contest. It was right next to the Reaper booth. As usual for Reaper's speed-paints, each contestant got a basic set of 12 paints (a combination of Master Series and HD) and 2 brushes. Paint colors: red, yellow, green, blue, purple, white, black, Caucasian flesh, orange-brown, dark brown, silver, and gold. I didn't use the silver or gold at all, because I didn't want to get shiny flakes polluting the water. As you can see, I relied heavily on the browns. Brush sizes/shapes: a larger flat brush and a smaller pointed brush ... except for Round 2. See below. So now I have 3 new Bones figures to show for about 3 hours of painting. Some of the paint rubbed off along the way back home, but otherwise they are unchanged. I'm not sure whether I'll clean up the paint jobs under better lighting and with better brushes, or just leave them like this. Anyway, here they are: Round 1: beastman warrior 2, Bones #77253. 45 minutes. Round 2 (semifinal): Bloodhoof, minotaur barbarian, Bones #77251. 50 minutes. The larger flat brushes used in the Round-1 heats had all gotten frazzled, and Cheryl wanted to save some new ones for the final round, so we got only 2 small brushes for this round -- size 5/0. It's tough painting a big figure with a tiny brush. Round 3 (final): Dragoth the Defiler, plus throne, Bones #77201. 75 minutes. I quickly realized that Dragoth wasn't permanently attached to the throne, so I pulled them apart, painted the two pieces separately, and then put them back together with a few minutes left. As you can see, his back is just plain black, but at least I avoided leaving anything unpainted and glaringly white. Thanks for looking! Derek
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