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Found 139 results

  1. In the Storm King's Thunder campaign I'm playing in we've had 2 encounters with an ancient blue dragon named Iymrith. I don't have a painted blue dragon... And my very pregnant DM isn't going to get one bought and painted before we need her, so... Digging through my minis, I figured Narthrax was as close as I've got. It was going to be blue anyway (or dessert sands brown) so that was my top choice. I also thought about the wizkids dragons, but the FLGS only had the green, and I wasn't all that impressed with the sculpt. I'd rather drop $30 on another Narthrax if I'm gonna paint a brown one in the future. Tonight I pulled her out, scrubbed her down, and started working on her base. She could probably for on a smaller base, but with her wingspan, and the fact that she's an ancient dragon, I figure she deserves it. and the cork will give her some extra height. It helps her look even bigger as compared to Blightfang! More to come!
  2. Auberon

    Village Attacks Banshee

    While I did mostly follow the concept art once again, I also used the banshee as a test subject for my recently purchased cool greens triad. Details are in the WIP.
  3. As some of you may have read elsewhere, I have been playing Village Attacks and painted the vampire. When I did I kept close to the concept art because I figured if I ever get someone else to play they'll be looking at the game cards, so the minis should look like what the player expects. When I looked closely at more of the cards though, it became apparent there was a bit of a problem. The monsters all have inhumanly pale skin and generally dark color schemes. The peasants look drab as well. While that is cool as concept art, having a couple 20 minis on the table that are all kind of muted colors is going to blend together more than I would like so a new plan is needed. That is to stick close to the concept art, but make everything a little more vibrant. I figure as slowly as I'll be painting these there will be plenty of time to stop for pics, so why not a thread. Next I'll be working on the banshee, but first a bit of background. You see there is another mini I would like to pull down off of the shelf of shame and work on but it has a problem. I want to paint part of it jade, but the jade paint I have kind of sucks. I like the color, but the paint itself is super shiny and too translucent. So I picked up Reaper's cool green triad to try out. The color swatch showed me Reaper's Jade wasn't quite what I wanted, but real jade comes in several variations of green. I'll find a use for it somewhere. Here's a sampling of some of the greens that I have. You can see the Reaper Jade 09015 is nothing like the VGC Jade 72026, but real Jade comes in both flavors so it's fine. I have a plan, but first I want to try the Triad out on its own just to see how it looks. Enter the banshee. Her concept art has her is a very desaturated garment with some green accents. The new cloth color will instead be the Reaper Triad and then put the green accents beside them. She will be very green. First 09013. I had originally painted the cloth but decided to texture the base before I went any further. It was messy and got some grit on her. I wasn't very thorough in removing it. Next is 09014. I just blocked it in to see what it looked like. It is noticeably warmer than the shadow color. At first it seems to stand out but... Once the jade is slapped on it really falls back into the shadows, as you can see below. My highlighting here isn't exactly accurate, but that's why we call it tabletop. There should be a step between 09014 & 09015 that I'll have to mix at some point. Under normal lighting the green just goes from dark to jade. Actually if you look at the colors there is another problem. This triad has no pop. Fortunately pop is easy. It's called VMC Ivory and solves (almost) all your contrast needs. Here it's actually mixed with the jade to create a highlight that will actually stand out. Just remember your painting lesson for today. VMC Ivory = POP and eliminates those pesky "more contrast" comments. Given that the real purpose here is to learn the triad, I'll be going back to refine things later and see how I can get it to look. Before that though I want to block in everything else so my green has something to work with. That though, is a project for tomorrow.
  4. Metalchaos

    02769, Woody the Halfling Ranger

    Here's Niles Nimbletoe, the Rogue in our D&D group. 02769, Woody the Halfling Ranger is Dark Heaven Legends model sculpted by Werner Klocke. It's a model I had already painted a long time ago. I refreshed the colors and I added mud on his coat. This little guy is so tiny I monted it on a 20mm base.
  5. brehaut

    77176: Familiars (Cat, Wolf, Bat)

    This weekend I painted up half the bones Familiars 1 set—the wolf, bat, and cat—as part of my plan to make it through some of my backlog. It’s been a really rewarding and fun set to paint, none of the minis take long, and despite the most of the figures being tiny the easy access to reference material made them pretty straight forward.
  6. I'm slowly working through all my minis up on corks. This one is a hero character fig from the third Star Hat Miniatures kickstarter. I guess I’m happy enough at how its come out at least as far as I just do simple paint jobs to tabletop. The fig is metal and had an intrinsic base that I extended out with some poorly applied greenstuff, and made the skull at the same time. Critiques welcome
  7. I know what you are saying...another WIP by Jasper? It will never get finished, just like all his other WIPs! This is likely true (the first step is admitting you have a problem) but the difference here is I'm not painting these guys currently. I will eventually....in theory, but that's not why I'm starting the WIP. So, if you are unfamiliar, or just don't know the name of the book series, A Song of Ice and Fire is the name of the fairly obscure book series they made into that niche little TV series they have to stick on Sunday nights, A Game of Thrones. CMoN worked with Dark Sword Miniatures (I expect there were some licensing reasons as DSM has made some spectacular Martin approved figures from the series in the past) to produce a full blown tabletop game based on the books (not the show, so don't expect Tyrion to look like Peter Dinklage). This is a full traditional type tabletop game, with units, movement trays, etc. Not what I'm used to with CMoN, but they seem to have done a pretty good job with it, and are backing it up with new armies and units coming out any time now. Of course, being CMoN AND Game of Throne, the kickstarter did pretty well, and the number of figs that came were.... So, as mentioned, units and movement trays. Movement trays are great. They keep your unit organized and make it much easier to move them around. They also make facing and alignment for engagements easy. But the problem with them is that people are clumsy. So far in every game I've played me, or my opponent (but usually me) has dropped a tray. Usually only an inch or two to the tabletop, but still... As I'm on an ASOIAF (awesome acronym...) facebook group, this seems to be a common issue. And everyone uses the common solution that movement tray based minis games have been using for decades. Magnets. Back when I played Clan War (and Gencon was still in Milwaukee) we used flat metal sheets for the trays, and stick on squares of magnet on the bases. But now we live in the future! where itty bitty super powerfully magnets are easily available. So today I'm trying out magnetizing this unit of Stark Sworn Swords. Following a post I read a while ago in the Facebook group, I ordered a bunch of 5mm x 1mm magnets. The first thing I do is grab a scratchy something (in this case a triangle file) and scratch an X into one face of a bunch of the magnets (I'll do them all eventually). Then I picked a test subject and glued one as centered as I could get it. I'm putting the scratched side into the glue as the scratches might help it adhere better and so I don't have scratches showing on all the bottoms. It doesn't matter as long as you're consistent. Once it dried a bit I needed to see if this would actually work. As these are pretty thin magnets and imported from a company I'd never dealt with before (but who sell really inexpensive magnets) I wasn't sure how strong they would be. So I picked what should be the worst spot on the movement tray, where CMoN put their logo, put the fig in the spot and just held a magnet to see what it would do. Seemed to lock on pretty good so time to test! Even with a few good shakes our test Stark seems to have held. Excellent! Time to glue the rest on. Glue should be dry now after all this typing, but its lunch so I'll see if I can get the movement try magnets glued on after a bit.
  8. Auberon

    Village Attacks Female Peasant

    And another Village Attacks mini, this time one of the peasants. For the moment I'm still following the concept art, but she was also a test for a shade of green mixing Reaper, SC75, and VGC paints. Details in the WIP.
  9. Looks like its been awhile since I last posted up here. I've been playing Village Attacks for a couple weeks now and decided to give some of the monsters a quick paint. Today I painted the Vampire. If the cast would have been better I might have spent some more time on him, but he had enough flaws that I didn't feel it worth the effort. I did a bit of an experiment with creating textures on the cloak, which worked better in the blue portion than the black. I didn't quite have the energy to freehand on the veins like in the reference art, but I might go ahead and darken the claws now that I see how it looks.
  10. You can also see pirates here Girl & boy Noble & farmer Waitress and dancing girl
  11. lexomatic

    wizkids pre-primed pirates tabletop

    This was stress relief from bad contractors and totally unplanned. The beach base was a total whim, and works for one. I have no idea what I was thinking with the Obelix type...
  12. I've never been much of a fan of GW. I mean the first fig I ever painted was GW, but that's because my friend (who was also the store owner) gave it to me for free (Come on, try it, the first one's free....). And I played some Bloodbowl back in the day (should really finish my Chaos Dwarf team one of these days...only been a decade or two). But I never really got into anything GW was making. Style wasn't what I was looking for, or the price point, or whatever. So then last week I was in Montreal for the GP (great time, too bad the race itself was soooooo boring). Was visiting a friend who lives up there and we wandered into the rather impressive GW store in the Eaton Centre. Took a look around and caught sight of this: Apparently a new edition of Age of Sigmar is coming out this week, and these guys are a faction. Or whatever the different groups are called. I thought, "Those are pretty cool! Flying stuff. Steampunky. I like." Then we left. And I went and marshaled for 3 days (the support races were better, btw). Then we met back up on Monday. And I was still thinking about the cool steampunky flying ships. So we went back and I picked up the starter. (they have 2 bigger flying ships too, but ouch, not cheap). So, this is what they look like when you open the box: Oye! Lots of bits. Looks like everything has options (they have a very detailed assembly guide, quite impressive). Options that presumably follow rules. Rules I'm not sure I'll ever read, let alone play. But I may check with the local store; I think they had some folks playing something GW. So that's all I've done with them so far, but figured I'd post and get the WIP started. These may take a bit to get going.
  13. This thread is something ... different from other works I have been done. I guess it's not entirely in accordance to the board rules, so you may forgive me and accept my humble bundle of roses, choclate and other stuff that will easy your severely upset minds. When I am in the mood, I am doing so many speed builds up to the point of painting (means assembly, basing and priming), that making them all into different threads I would flood the forum with an unnecessary number of threads. So I will keep this limited to the building process of my different tabletop figures, armies and stuff and transfer the finished figures to their respective painting threads. What's on the table at the moment? Watchful I Studios 28mm Chinese Army Deal (around 100 figures and equipment) Warlord Games 56 Soviet Russians (winter) (making M into F) Raging Heroes Sisters of Eternal Mercy: 10x Sisters and 10 Flying Sister plus some support units Andrea Miniatures 1x Female Warrior (upgrading her to be a Chinese Warrior Woman) Creature Caster 1x Tree Walker Flames of War Fallschirmjäger-Kompanie + Support Weapons 4x Battlefront StuG 3G 1x Plastic Soldier Company StuG 3G Corvus Belli A lot of Aleph miniatures What's done and ready to be painted? Flames of War 1x Fallschirmjäger-Zug (9 units) 1x Fallschirmjäger Kompanieführung (HQ) - different Units and support weapons. Warlord Games - 18 German Fallschirmjäger - 10 German Panzergrenadiere Mantic Games: Kings of War Succubi Regiment (20 Succubi) CP Models: Diana Andrea Miniatures 1x Female Paladin 1x Naga Warrior 1x Gunmaid Corvus Belli Some Aleph miniatures Watchful I Studios 28mm Chinese Army Deal (15 figures)
  14. What makes a good table top war game ... model count, system complexity, special characters, great background fluff, core rules ... what really makes one system more fun to play than another ? I have noticed several folks are working on a system as finding one that is 'just right' is almost impossible and if you do its tied to a model line you don't have ... I'm one of the folks working on a game system but I'm aiming for model independence ... a solid system that is not tied to any model line but open to use with any force you like ... I just want a good game I can bring any army I want to, and stll have a fair and balanced game with others bringing any army they like ... Most of the open army systems I have looked at are too light or over regulated and most don't have a viable point system ... a solid point system might never be perfect but it's the only viable medium for pick up games and turnament play in an open army game system , so I'm starting with ... A universal point system, based on force type templates. 1d10 based for all randome resolution. Smooth and straight forward game mechanics , with some special rules but keeping the system simple / fast is a primary goal. Looking for player preferences, likes/ dislikes , why one system stands out over others, what worked well and what just never seemed to get it right or seemed sooo wrong ... for all of us poking around at what could be ...
  15. Crowley

    Crowley's Goroloth

    In Bones 2, Reaper had several large sea monster creatures, one of which, the Goroloth (Reaper’s answer to the Aboleth), came in the Expansion 2 set. This was one of the figures I was least interested in, and figured that if I ever got around to painting it, it would be because I was trying to finish up the set. Primordial evil fish monsters just aren’t my thing. Of course then my DM decided to introduce one into her game… so… Now I’m painting an aboleth. My inspiration from the 2e Monster Manual. After digging it out of my boxes of Bones minis, I did my usual washing in hot soapy water and scrubbing with a toothbrush. Mold lines were minimal, and ignored, but I did notice that the plastic on this guy was much softer than I’m used to. Reminded me a lot of Kaladrax’s head. Along with assembling, I went to the 5e Monster Manual to check on the size of an Aboleth. Large, aka a 2” base. Far too tiny for this mini, so I upped it to a 3” base. I glued the flying stand to the bigger base, and then covered it with blocks of cork attached with hot glue. I was picturing an underwater ruined palace. Sadly I don’t have a good statue that I could have ruined on the base. Once the mini was all assembled, I primed it with Blue Liner, and then blocked out the colors with Deep Ocean Blue, Oceanic Blue, and Marine Teal. The bony bits were painted with bone, as were the stripes on the tentacles, while the gills and suckers on the tentacles were painted with Monster Maw. The many eyes were painted with Heraldic Red. I then gave just about everything a wash with GW’s Leviathan Purple. It seemed appropriate. Returning to the base I primed it with black craft paint, and then dry brushed it with Mountain Stone, with more and more linen white added to it. I then applied dots of Jade Green to look like sea moss growing on it. I still need to bring the highlights back up, but this is where he's at now: Gonna call that ready for game!
  16. Turn order ... Some games turn is one full side gose, then the other sides full force gose, easy to keep track of but first shooting or alpha strike army's can make this a kinda lopsided go of it ... Some alternate unit activation witch keeps both sides active and reduces overwhelming fire but leads to several smaller units trying to bleed out the 'activations' of the other player before throwing out an end cap ... their big shooty unit going last one turn then first the next to effectively double tap ... Some have randome activation (colored dice in draw bag) or dice for following activation with command roll ... both good options ... Other popular turn structures ? Turn mechanics ... You know, player A rolls to hit, then rolls to wound then player B rolls to save wounds then maybe a moral check ... I was thinking of cutting this down to Player A rolls for hits ... player B saves vs wounds (putting wound modifiers and armor modifiers together in one roll) with a possible moral roll ... Kinga of war also has a kiss system but player A rolls to hit, to wound, and against player Bs moral value on his turn with player B making all rolls on his turn ... So I have been working on a semi randome (with some player influence) unit activation system with the player A rolling to hit with B save but now wondering if active player making all roll would be more or less intuitive ?
  17. I used this figure for CMPA's Adventurer Challenge, and practicing chilling out on a figure instead of going detail crazy. Naturally that meant I had to try something new on it anyway. New: I put a lot of effort into her hair, and actually used it as practice for the hair on my ranger to get better hair methodology down. New: I also took a stab at NMM on armor, with mixed success. Not 100% happy, but it didn't get as much effort as the hair, and I wasn't going for perfection on that part. Same with the sword, not 100% happy, but decided to be satisfied until I try another figure. Because I couldn't resist: I decided the boots were bland, so I freehanded gladiola flowers onto her boot. Then her bra and her dagger needed flowers too. Her name is now Gladys, because she likes said flowers. The minimal effort: Skin tones. I went for a pretty basic set, didn't go crazy on this part, but for a "good enough".
  18. Guyscanwefocusplease

    Skellyman army (wargames factory)

    Hi everyone! So looking back at 2017, I am absolutely ashamed to see that I had only completed 5 (five! Only five!) Miniatures this year. Granted, I didn't have access to my painting stuff until April, and had five major life events happen this year both good and bad. The minis I did complete I am very happy with, and I did really push myself to get better and learn some new techniques. I also started about 30 miniatures that have not been finished, so I did more painting than it seems. When looking at my paint desk it has become apparent that I have far, far too many unfinished projects- including a few from more than four years ago. Therefore I have 3 goals for 2018: 1) paint 52 miniatures within the calendar year. Any stand alone miniature counts. 2) of these 52, complete at least one CAV force to bring to reapercon 2018. 3) complete two unfinished miniatures before starting a new miniature. In that vein, I have started my resolution a little early: These are 20 skeletons from wargames factory I assembled and primed this summer, but never finished as I had airbrush problems. Tonight in about 2 hours I blocked them in woodstain brown and began dry brushing with terrah khaki- a nice bone color by the way! My intention is the shade and highlight them, then arm them. I want to use these guys as an excuse to try verdigris... I am very excited to see how it turns out. If i get these guys done I'll already be more than a third of the way to 52 miniatures. Wish me luck and expect more update soon!
  19. While waiting for washes to dry on an exchange fig this morning, I decided I'd try getting a decent paint job onto a fig I pulled out of the latest BoGW that @robinh let me browse through last week. I pulled this fig because I thought it would work well as an evil mage type in the Savage Rifts setting. But I didn't think I'd use it for the current game, as the last encounter is tonight, before we switch over to 5th Ed for a while. But what the heck, I'm going to see what I can do with him anyway. Here's about 40 minutes of base coating. Robes/gloves will be dark red, tassley cloak thing will be purpley greys. Lots of metals. Anyone able to identify him? GW? Warzone maybe? (Identified below.....)
  20. Auberon

    77270: Spikeshell Warriors

    And now for this week's minis, the spikeshell warriors. These guys were painted to tabletop using the same artists paints, but one was over white and the other was over black. The shell patterns are also different, but I ended up liking one more than the other. Thanks for looking.
  21. I expect this is going to be a long-running WIP thread. My intention is to convert this heap of vintage lead into war games armies to allow me to field forces for a variety of Tolkien situations, using only vintage Minifigs. For those who are younger than me, Minifigs produced this line of Tolkien-inspired figures starting in 1972, and, as far as we've ever been able to determine, it was the first range of specifically fantasy miniatures ever produced. They were the first that I bought as well, and I will freely admit that this is a nostalgia project. I posted a batch of finished elves this morning. Here's what I have left to do: two elf riders, an elf king to form a second command stand, 14 elf swordsmen, and 9 elf bowmen (three of whom have lost arrows and one who's been redone as a standard bearer for the command stand.) For the era of the Battle of the Five Armies, they have some dwarf allies. Here's a dozen, representing all three stock numbers that were produced. Each stock number was a strip of two. I have a batch of seven already finished and based. Minifigs did not issue any specific Lakemen, nor, for that matter, any specific Rohirrim on foot. For the Five Armies-era humans, I'll have to reach into the historical and use some figures from their NS (Norman/Saxon) range with round shields. I've got about three dozen available with which to work. They should also serve as dismounted Rohirrim when needed. Beorn and Gandalf are also available, and a token eagle... To continue with the good guys, there were two catalog numbers of actual mounted Rohirrim. I have two completed so far, and about 22 available, including a few Later Romans or similar Dark Ages figures which blend well. A few spare horses remain to be found. The Gondorians were represented by five different figures, a citadel guardsman, two rangers of Ithilien, a spearman, a swordsman, and a foot knight. I've got at least a dozen of each, plus a total of two dozen of ME53 and 54, Rangers of the North. The Dark Lord's forces can be lead by the imposing squadron of flying Nazgul, of which I have four: I have 18 wargs (plus a few already finished), but only two of the goblin riders: Large orcs came in three poses, with sword, axe or spear. I've got about 85 to be done: Smaller orcs came in four poses, a bowman, a swordsman without shield, a swordsman with shield, and a well equipped armored goblin with shield, spear and bow. Of that latter, I've only got a handful, all completed. Of the first three, I've got about seventy from a recent purchase: There is also one pose of little goblins. I finished a few of them last month. I've got more, but they are sitting in paint stripper at the moment. Sauron's human allies were represented by four poses of figures; there was a Haradrim spearman and a mounted lancer, of which I've got about 30 and 5 respectively: There was also a Southern spearman and a mounted swordsman. I only have a token 3 of the spearmen, so they won't be a unit on their own, but I do have nine of the mounted swordsmen, so they can be. Last, I have a hobbit militia of about a dozen, plus a couple of mounted hobbits. The foot hobbits came in strips of three, and one strip is much easier to find than the other... My basic plan is going to be to play these with Dragon Rampant, which generally uses units of six mounted or twelve foot figures, with provision for heroes and large monsters as exceptions. However, some of the teams will be big enough that I could use Chaos Wars (also in sixes and twelves), and I expect that an actual Battle of the Five Armies game my brother and I have been discussing will take every orc/goblin that we have painted. Edit: Ooops! Forgot the Dunlendings; there are enough of them to make a unit, and given Saruman's forces a bit of distinctiveness...
  22. buckyball

    Game submission forms?

    On the Reapercon website, I noticed that there is a link to submit a game. But when I clicked on it it took me to the GM policies page. Is there a link somewhere for the game submission forms to fill out? buckyball
  23. Back in December, when I finally had some time and motivation to get back to painting, I decided I'd really quickly do up some IMEF marines. Just table top, didn't even clean up mold lines or anything. Well, do primarily to being easily distracted by......what was I saying? Oh yes, easily distracted by other bright shiny objects, it took me over 4 months to get them all done. Here is a quick group shot. I still don't have any real futuristic urban terrain to use to shoot these guys. Reggie and Torch still need to be sealed, but looking at the forecast it could be June before it stops raining. The rest have already seen combat as some mercs for hire last week in Savage Rifts. WIP ( with many individual shots) is here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/78476-jasper-gets-back-to-painting-with-some-imef-marines/
  24. sorcerersapprentice

    Squareware: A special dice kit for the DM

    Squareware has now launched on Kickstarter. I'm seeking funding to prototype and mass manufacture a very special dice kit I have developed that combines the best features of a Box, Bag, Mats and Dice to give you millions of instant creative solutions during or while building your RPG - and - help the DM eliminate creative, mental and physical fatigue; minimize the need for manuals; free up space behind the DM screen; allow you to craft entire quest concepts in seconds; and make it easy on your shoulders, bag or pocket to carry. #dice #rpg #dnd #tabletop #gaming https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gametilewarehouse/squareware-rpg-dice-tools-for-sparking-the-creativ
  25. Jasper_the_2nd

    Jasper and the Panzerkampfrad

    Yet another German war machine (in case you were wondering, yes I also have Russian, British, US and Japanese stuff, I'm just doing all the German at once so I can paint them all at once). This unusual creation came out of the recent Panzermech Kickstarter by West Wind. A giant War Wheel. Should be a pretty quick and easy assembly to get it ready for priming. All I've done so far is washed the resin.
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