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Found 42 results

  1. Invisible Heroes

    All I did was cut off the integral base and glue them on painted bases from CMON. Another 4 done! Reaper Bones: Invisible Rogue 77449 Invisible Wizard 77450 Invisible Cleric 77451 Invisible Warrior 77453
  2. This will be the last of my experiments, at least until the Grey Ooze in Bones IV is released in retail. First off, as it appeared in the Burning Sphere ones - the Orange translucents are not as friendly to the Tamiya Clears as the other colors. Also, I didn't do a full color range test with this one. The only reason I did it is my FLGS had one in stock when I was there on Saturday. Again, I'll start off with untouched: The three of these here are part of my original experiments with Tamiya Clears a couple years back. I'm showing them all together, because I honestly don't remember which was painted with which. I'm not sure if there is one of each - Yellow, Orange and Red, or if I did one in Orange, and two in Red. The Red, Yellow and Orange clears do work fairly well with the orange Bones - I used them to tint my large fire elementals originally. But the tinting is subtle. Since I only had the one untouched figure to experiment with, I chose to see what the blue would do with it. Not real pleased with the results: It doesn't really retain the translucence, unless you hold it up to the light, in which case I ended up with a sort of purple splotchiness. I tried to get a shot of that, but it doesn't show up on the camera very well: Assessment of Tamiya Clears and the orange translucents - you're not going to get the nice color changing effects that the clear, green and purple Bones get. Stick with the Red, Orange and Yellow Tamiya Clears for these Bones.
  3. Next up in my Tamiya Clears experiments - the Green. The Green behaves much like the purple does, meaning that the clears can almost completely recolor it, if the piece is thin enough. First up, untouched: With the Clear Gloss. Again, it really brings out the translucence: With the Smoke. Out of all the colors I've tested so far, the smoke works best on the green. With the Green: With the Red: With the orange: With the Yellow. This one seems to have the hardest time with the green: With the blue: And all of them together:
  4. 77310: Water Weird & Tamiya Clears

    The next round of my experiments with Bones Translucents and the Tamiya Clears. The blue translucent Bones are not as receptive to the Tamiya Clears as the clear and purple are. First up, untouched. You'll note there are two here. That's because Reaper changed their color slightly at some point. The one on the left is the older color, the one on the left is the current one. The reason I post both is because my Water Weird done with the Tamiya Clear blue was done on the older color. All the other clears used the newer figures. First up is the Clear Blue: Here's my original Weird with the Blue, and the two untouched minis before I used the Clear Gloss on them: Here's the two previously untouched after I hit them with the Clear Gloss: With Clear Yellow. As you can see, unlike the purple of the shadow demon, the blue still shows through, meaning I got more of a greenish tint: Likewise with the Orange. It's rather ugly: And the Clear Red. I like this effect - it makes it look like blood. This water weird is going work well when paired with a demon: The Green came out well: Here's with the Smoke: Here's my four favorites - Blue, the two clear gloss and the smoke. These will work well together - all look like water, and yet are different enough that it will be easy enough to tell them apart: And finally, here is all of them together: Final assessment on the Clears and Blues - the Blue and Clear Gloss work well. The Green and Yellow will give a nice green, at least on smaller pieces, thinner pieces, I don't think it will work well for thicker pieces. Orange is ugly. Red works well on the Water Weird if you want some sort of Blood Weird. I'd avoid Red on the larger pieces.
  5. This one is cool, IMO. Ever wished that Shadow Demon came in a different color than Purple? Once again, presenting my experiments with translucent Bones and Tamiya Clears. Warning Pic Heavy First off, an untouched Shadow Demon: With Tamiya Clear Gloss: Untouched next to the one with the clear gloss: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: Tamiya Clear Yellow: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Smoke: All of them, in all their glory: As you can see, the Tamiya clears can actually change the color while maintaining the translucency on the smaller and thinner parts. The only one that doesn't do this to the same degree as the others is the Smoke. Hope people find this useful.
  6. In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one. Reiterating how to paint translucent minis: Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought! From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints. So anyway: The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so: When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat. Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this. Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop. I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone. The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white. Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila. I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there. I opted for a relatively heavy stain. To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result. Kyphrixis (clear variant) Reaper Bones KS3 Translucent bones 125mm x 90mm oval base
  7. So I see a lot of people painting the translucent mini's like the slimes and grave wraith with Tamiya clear colors, but I do not want to have a second setup for their paint formulation, so I am wondering if the Reaper Clears (like 9099 clear purple) give the same effect? Would be nice to just go straight to the color instead of having to throw down a clear coat and then doing a wash onto the translucent mini's (like how I did my grave wraith). Any help or suggestions is appreciated.
  8. I'm getting ready to paint my Kyphryxis Dragon in the Translucent Bones, and wanted to test how the different colors of the Tamiya Clears looked on the Bones translucent material. So I picked up some of the 77306 Translucent Slimes. These are literally quick paints - I just slopped on the Tamiya Clear on each one. I'm posting them here not to show off, but for your convenience and reference. Warning - Pic heavy First off, a plain, untouched translucent Bones slime: The Tamiya Clear Gloss really makes the Slime translucent: The effect is much more noticeable when you see them side by side: Next, painted in Tamiya Clear Yellow: Next in Tamiya Clear Blue: Tamiya Clear Green: Tamiya Clear Smoke: Tamiya Clear Red: Tamiya Clear Orange: And finally, my actual test piece, which I'm calling a "Fire Slime". I will probably be using a similar scheme for my Kyphrixis: As you can see, the Tamiya Clears are really good at literally changing the color of the translucent Bones material, while maintaining the translucency. At some point, i think I'm going to try and pick up multiples of some of the other translucent colors, and do similar test pieces. I already know from the fire elementals that it will change the tones of the red/orange Bones.
  9. 77310 - Water Weird

    Used Tamiya clear blue to coat the Water Weird and Reaper paints for the well and highlights.
  10. 77310 - Water Weird

    So, I wanted to try my Tamiya clear blue on one of the Bones translucent blue elementals and I chose the Water Weird. So far, so good but I'm not sure how to finish it off from here. I'm thinking of trying to get a curly-wave-white-foam effect at the extremities but I'm not sure. What do you think hive mind?
  11. Bones 3 Air Elementals

    I used Tamiya Clear Smoke as a base coat, then highlighted the edges with Misty Gray. A couple of Clear Red dots for eyes,some basic grass-plus-flowers on the medium one, and then sealed with Crystal Clear and glued 'em to their bases. Quick, easy, ready for the tabletop.
  12. My elementals. I'm going to need to redo a few pics for inspiration gallery submission, but good for now. These have only been cropped, unlike most of my pics. WIP
  13. So I decided to do some elementals real quick. I gave them base coat of matte medium - primer for earth, because base coat. Then I attempted the yellow-ning. First it looked good, so I tried to add a little more, mixed with orange tint, and ugh. I think I'd recommend doing outsides red, and then use a yellow ink w/medium as "dry" brush to pick out details. It won't look right, but a lot of the translucents really seem to be table ready.
  14. 77095: Ghostly Summons

    So, when I first tried painting this, I made tolerably decent base for it, coated it with Tamiya Clear Green, and observed that the details were totally unclear. So I highlighted it with yellow. And it looked .... AWFUL. And therefore, I put it on the Shelf of Shame, from whence it has been reproaching me these past three years. "Fiiiiniiish usss," the ghostly damsels kept whispering to me in spooky undertones. "Nope," I said, and returned to all kinds of other projects. "Awwww," they would say, and disspiritedly return to moping in their eldritch green flame. But tonight, I finally decided that the only solution was to disregard the translucent plastic and paint the ladies as if they were any other mini. Thus, I give you a Ghostly Summons. Pics linked for nudity. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 Pic 4 Pic 5 Pic 6 Pic 7 Pic 8 Pic 9 I had to wipe the whole thing down with a wet brush to remove the surface dust first. >.> I think the skin tone on the green one came out best. I have no earthly idea when I'll actually use this mini for anything, but at least they're off the Shelf of Shame.
  15. 77306: Translucent Slimes

    The fastest minis I ever painted! 15 minutes for two models, start to finish. Each got a single coat of Tamiya Clear Green/Orange and then glued to a base. I didn't feel the need to decorate the base for a puddle of acidic goo. I should probably seal them though. That hasn't happened yet, and will probably add another five minutes of slopping brush-on sealer onto them.
  16. Translucent Bones

    So I was experimenting with Taimaya clears and I wanted to share what I've painted so far. I think the colors come out a little dark, but I love the jewel like gloss they dry to. I am going to get me some Taimaya clear (with no color) and some Taimaya thinner and keep expirementing. The Ghostly Summons has a few layers of Golden Glow over top to start building up some highlights. And so does the NightSpectre.
  17. I've been thinking about doing this for awhile - painting up one of the clear "invisible" adventurers in Bones III as a translucent figure. The obvious choice was 77449 - Invisible Rogue, as my delightful wife painted the matching 77035 - Visible Deladrin some time ago. I painted the figure using a thinned Tamiya Clear Blue X-23 (thinned with Tamiya Thinner X-20). This produced a very light blue tint to the figure while at the same time introducing some definition. I also hit points where I wanted extra definition, mainly the face and weapon transition points, with unthinned Tamiya Clear Blue. The broccoli is basically Reaper Peacock Green worked up through Reaper Clear Green to Reaper Clear Yellow. The bottom of the base has been painted Reaper Pure Black. Important Note: Tamiya Clear paints are significantly different from Reaper Clear Paints. Tamiya Clear are translucent, Reaper Clear are not. Issues - there's a big one in that because of the black I painted the bottom of the base, the boots of the translucent figure are significantly darker than the rest of the figure. It almost reads right, but I'd have been better off doing the first coat on the bottom a green or maybe a white so they looked like they were clear going onto the grass of the base. It's something I'll consider later, although could largely be ignored if you rebased the figure. But on the whole I think this came out pretty good, accidental scimitar that we never noticed originally on Deladrin and all. There's one additional issue that I didn't spot till after I posted this - a Virtual Chocolate Fish™ to anyone who can tell the class what that very delibrate mistake was for our educational porpoises.
  18. Good evening! I'm trying to paint a 1/8th scale Tali (from Mass Effect). She's got a clear plastic face cover. In the game it's tinted purple. I had some Army Painter quickshade purple tone ink. It worked when brushed on in many thin layers but it's blotchy. Any suggestions on how to get a nice smooth transparent purple? Thanks!
  19. The WIP is here: A little less see-through than I'd like, but the light still passes. There is glow in the dark medium used, but it's not very effective, and would never come into play anyway.
  20. I had so much fun with my slimes I decided to do a few more translucent minis I had handy. These are the Grave Wraith and Nightspectre (somewhere else I have a Ghostly Summons 77095, Labella DeMornay 77096, and a spare Spirit 77098 that I will paint another time). I wanted to do these quickly, so it's ink mostly - the same ones as with the slimes, plus maybe a few darker phthalos. I've done a coat of glow in the dark medium for each (photographed), a coat of the not highest green, and picked out the skeletons in the nightspectre with a wash of medium and brown liner and base coated the grave wraith's sword and tombstone in a dark blue-grey. not photographed Eventually everything will get a drybrush of spectral glow (and maybe another, mixed with maggot white, in a few spots). For the nightspectre, I'm going to try and treat it as a fire and get darker going out. With the wraith, I'm going to go lighter out from the bottom centre. Plus highlights for both. The goal will be for them to be mostly translucent (and glow in the dark, because everything gets that medium). Hopefully I'll figure out how much direct light, and how much medium I need to be able to photograph this. Photos later today in subsequent posts.
  21. This is a quick post - pics will follow shortly from my phone. You can see the WIP with recipe and process pics by clicking on the link back there.
  22. In between base coats of glow in the dark medium for specter #2 I decided to unwrap and quick paint the slimes with ink. What follows is, to my belief, THE green slime recipe.
  23. I have 2 of the clear bones shadows and 1 of the original spectres in metal. I might pick up another bones one. I'll be trying to paint these a few different ways, so they'll be distinguishable, but also similarly enough that they might be thought of as a unit. The metal spectre will be painted as a solid being, doing the reverse dry-brush, and glow-in-the-dark medium. One of the bones minis will use magenta, purple, payne's grey, prussian blue, dioxazine purple, maybe a pthalo and some warlord purple, and spectral glow for solid paints. I am going to do some experimenting. This will probably be done slowly through march or april I may do some zombies really quickly to go along with all this.
  24. Shadow Demon - 77368 - Translucent Purple

    Probably my fastest paint job ever. Two nights, a couple of hours tops. He was fun though. It was my first translucent Bones and tried to use the translucency in a way that would benefit the model. Not sure how it ended up looking like this. I found it quite frightening when I was finished, like I painted something out of a nightmare.
  25. 77305: Gelatinous Cube

    In my order of clears, I had the cube! I sculpted the flagstones with some greenstuff and a toothpick, and conveniently my cube is a snug enough fit on the inside bit that it'll stand quite comfortably on the base without slipping off. I wanted to get it seperable so that I could use it to eat other minis =] I did make a bit of a mess of painting the inner piece, because I just couldn't figure it out well enough ^^; but it's going to be fairly rarely seen, so I don't mind too much. I used Tamiya's Green and Yellow clears, and an assortment of Citadel for the solid bits... Screaming Skull, White Scar, Fenrisian Grey, Steel Legion Drab, and another blue and red that I can't currently remember. The flagstones are painted with Standard Mechanicus Grey, Dawnstone, and Agrax Earthshade. I also used Tamiya's Shadow clear to add some extra depth. I was really surprised by how big the cube actually was ultimately, I had to order new bases for it to fit on xD
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