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This is another mob build for our games of Gorkamorka. This one is a more traditional mob made of orks and vehicles, no grots allowed. Goffs are pretty straightforward, even for orks. They don't go for subterfuge, most of them don't even know what that means let alone understand the concept or why you would want to fight that way. They are the epitome of orkiness, believing that might is right, that the biggest and toughest should run the show and that arguing the point will just get ya a fat lip with a few less teef behind it. Now all orks view life this way to an extent but the goffs live it. Hand to hand, usually to the death, is their favorite way of settling any sort of dispute. While they understand there is a need for longer ranged combat it is viewed more as a sort of crippling or distracting tactic used to let the goffs get close enough to get stuck in. Understanding this about them I wanted their trukk to be a sort of ork delivery system. I decided that the ork crew should be right at the front of the vehicle for easy disembarkation into hand to hand. In game there will be no different rules for the trukk but will look truly proppa for goffs. I had a rough idea how I was going to make this work but as usual I just jumped in without blueprints and started the build. As per the directions the tires and frame are assembled first but this is where the standard trukk stops, I even went with a third party engine. As with most of my trukks I removed the middle suspension and cleaned up the frame. This made the perfect place for the engine to sit centrally on the frame. This made the distance between engine and rear axle super short so I had to cut down the drive shaft to almost nothing. I ended up cutting even more out of the drive shaft to finally make a fit. This set the rear axle at a strange angle but with the tires in place you can't tell. Moving to the front axle now to make sure everything sits at an angle that still makes the trukk look like a hotrod I was fairly certain I was not going to be able to use the axle as is out of the box. Setting it in place proved this to be the case as the front of the trukk was actually higher than the rear end, with the tires in place this would have made it pretty much level. Not really acceptable for this trukk. Looking at the front axle I could see that just flipping it over may work, which would be great as it would mean an easier fix than trying to rebuild a cut up axle. This had the trukk sitting pretty much level which means with the tires on would leave the rear end jacked up as I wanted. Alright, with the trukk sitting pretty much as I wanted I could move back to the engine. I needed to set the radiator somewhere and decided to just try to sit it right in front of the engine. This actually worked pretty well with just some very minor removal of some rivets off the frame and some bending of the radiator hose. I needed to attach the nitrous tank somewhere but this engine has no flat places for any sort of attachment.....what better place than to just have it dump into the fuel tank! Next up was the exhaust, the right side was perfect for the stock pipes, the left side not so much so. The problem here is that the pipe is in the way of the tire being able to sit right on the axle. I had originally thought I would be able to run it just behind and above the tire to come out the rear end like this. Which would have been cool had it worked. Now I am considering something more like this. The problem with this is that I was worried that it would be in the way of the central cockpit that I was thinking of building for the driver. In the end I went with this instead. With this settled I moved on to the construction of the cockpit. I started by cutting the front of the cockpit piece from the trukk kit up into the larger pieces, getting rid of the central connection piece and tracing the shape of the two pieces glued together onto some plasticard. I lost a pic of the front cockpit piece. It sits nicely onto the frame after cutting all the rivets and bolt heads off and adding a spacer to each of four plates on the frame to give just the slightest bit more height, mostly so the driver could see over the engine. Time to start adding some of the driver controls to the cockpit. The steering column and the floor mounted gear selector were fitted with the help of the driver. A rear panel, a windscreen and side roll bars added to get the feel of the cockpit. The driver is not glued and won't be as they need to be removable for game purposes. I realized at this point that I have no where to put a gunner, I didn't want to put him in the front crew compartment with the rest of the boyz.as he would take up enough space for two boyz that way. Giving some thought to this I decided that using the rear of the drivers cockpit was the only option at this point. More thought and some time playing with some bits I actually found a use for the mostly standard gunners turret of the trukk kit. Playing with this piece and some tubing I created a sort of rear turret that I got involved in the build deep enough to not take pictures of the process. I may need to reinforce this as it just sort of hangs off the back end and is only attached by the pipe frame and the front of the turret plate. Moving on to the front of the trukk and the crew compartment made me realize that it would have to be a multi level deck with a lower central area sitting on the frame and raised areas over the wheels. I wanted the deck to be long enough and wide enough to be able to hold six to eight orks, With the 25mm bases and the wide orks this meant that the deck needed to be roughly three inches by three inches. With that in mind I cut the central piece to get a feel for how this would look on the frame. While this appears very long it actually puts the total length of the vehicle at just two inches longer than the digga trukk, which is roughly one inch longer than the standard build of the trukk. At this point I got into the build and forgot that I even had a camera nearby. Here is the final overall shape of the vehicle with some minor details started. Comparison shots with the digga trukk. Same width and just slightly longer. The big shoota/weapon connection sorted and magnetized. The gunner is not glued in place as removal may be needed during the game. A bull skull with big horns is the goff clan symbol so of course the trukk needed one. If I can find a larger one I'll switch it out in a heartbeat. That is where I left this yesterday and all it needs now is rivets and some plating here and there to look more ramshackle and proppa. The boyz and nobz will be built after I get the trukk finished. Oh yes, that is another big difference the goffs have to other mobs, they can have two additional nobz in the mob. Other ork clanz can have only a single nob to lead them into battle. Well, hope you guys enjoy my mad mek workshops as much as I do. Until next time.
chaoshead posted a topic in Conversions, Presentation, and TerrainSo, in order to play Gorkamorka we need some mobs. The first of these that I decided to build was the Diggas. The Diggas are humans that think the orks are the greatest thing they have seen and they strive to be just like the orks. This being the case the Diggas trade and fight with and as the orks. They use ork armor and weapons, ork vehicles are also used since the Diggas have very little in the way of technical skills, either to build or maintain such tech, vehicles or otherwise. They rely on the orks for almost all of their tech, making the orks seem even more god-like. First off here are the two Diggas that I have converted so far, a shaman on the left and a Digganob on the right. There will eventually be more of these but for now this is all I have bits for, more of what I need is on order and should be here soonish. Next up I wanted to convert the Digga trukk to not be the standard kit right out of the box. Wheels assembled. Frame straight out of the box. The standard kit is a six wheeled vehicle, for this build I will be removing the center set of wheels to make more of a standard four wheeled vehicle. This is a fairly easy process, using clippers and an x-acto I trimmed all of the support structure from the sides and bottom of the frame. It is important to note that you should leave any detail that is on the top of the frame in tact as the bed of the trukk rests on all of that tiny detail. The standard six wheeled kit has two rear axles and driveshafts, I will not need the center axle or the two short drive shafts, I will need to build my own driveshaft to make this work. I'll use just some plastic rod for the driveshaft and use the ends of one of the original driveshafts. So, with that set aside to dry I moved on to the bed of the trukk. This is the standard trukk bed build, here being held together by poster tack. I am not a big fan of this tiny trukk bed as it will only hold four or five minis, hardly enough for a real mob. I plan on widening the bed to comfortably hold six, this could easily be pushed to ten with no problem. I will use some of the original trukk bed bits to do this as well as plasticard. Simply flipping the sides of the trukk bed to the opposite sides and laying them flat creates a nice flat surface that is very easily glued together. I used plasticard to fill out the rest of the bed so that it was all roughly the same width. For the sides I decided to use sides from an ork chariot, leaving the banner poles on to use later. I used plastic rod to make matching poles in the front of the trukk bed. I needed a rail all the way around the top to hold a canopy later in the build process. I used plastic rod and some corner pieces from some of the roll bars from the trukk kit to make this. Leaving that aside to dry for a bit I moved onto the cockpit of the trukk. I forgot to take pics of all the bits that SHOULD have been used in this step but I didn't use all of them that is for sure. I also forgot to take pics of the steps to get to this point but it was pretty straightforward, just followed the directions for this step actually. I did scavenge a second wind screen out of the bits box but I am not sure it will stay as I am not entirely sure I like it. The next step is a little bit of detailing of the original kit, mostly the engine and additional cockpit details for the gunner, not used in this build because it is an ork and this is a 'umie vehicle. Here are all the bits for this step. And here is what I will be using. To make this stuff look better. Next step bits. Only bits I will use from this step. I forgot to take pics of that step or me adding bars for the drivers canopy. The next step is just about the important bits used for boarding and krumping enemy vehicles. These are all the bits to add boarding planks and a wrecking ball as well as a few bits not used for Gomo and some braggin' decorations. I will add these to this vehicle but they need to be magnetized as they are not always available. All the bits not used in this build. Here is the Digga trukk as it stands now next to a mostly standard build trukk. This was a surprisingly quick and easy build, I was able to finish the vast majority of this in about five hours. With just more detailing left on this it will probably take longer to complete it than I have already put into it. Hope someone finds this useful or entertaining.
In a few weeks many Mars Attacks backers will get the crashed Saucer. Big problem! The dome is not not clear plastic, so the inside is not visible. I'm and many others are not really good at painting freehand. So how to paint it? I do not want to paint it in any color, it should be clear. Interesting ideas from the Kickstarter comments: 1. Wulf: "Do the crashed saucer dome in white with crackle glaze, it'll look like shattered perspex." 2. Undave: "You could always paint the crashed saucer dome to look like exploded Martian and then give it a heavy gloss varnish." 3. Another idea would be to combine method one and two. 4. My first idea was to get somehow Mantic to sell only a clear saucer dome, remove the unclear dome from the crashed saucer, put a black cotton wool in the clear dome to simulate smoke in it and glue it on the saucer and let some smoke coming out of the saucer (Ok, the clear dome must have the same size for this method!) 5. Another idea would be to remove the dome and try to put only smoke cloud on the saucer. I hope that someone could help with - ideas how to do it, - provide pictures of painted versions here of the painted dome - or even better give also a tutorial how to to it. Truck-Windows As Darsc Zacal mentioned, with the trucks we have the same problems with the windows! About the trucks I got a cool advise from SKRHH in the comments from BrÃ¼ckenkopf-Online. Don't paint the windows, put selfmade armor plates on them. With small observation slits. For the weldseam, you could use a small hot glue gun. It is not so hard to do it. Example: (I got this picture from this site.)
So I have painted a wee little rocket-bearing truck from Reaper's CAV line. Even with the rocket raised it only reaches the heads of my miniature figurines. I'd say it's the smallest vehicle I have ever painted, except so far it's the only vehicle I've ever painted. WIP thread here.