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Found 18 results

  1. Painting Blacks and Whites

    Any tips on how to do either/both of these? I'm getting ready to do my mock up for Ma'al and I'm not really sure how to approach it. I've done black before so I have a little bit of an idea of how to go about it but for white I've no idea. I'm tempted to buy like all the greys/blacks/whites that reaper has and go at it that way but I'm thinking it might be more cost effective to buy the Scale 75 black and white paint set. Maybe. So tips, tricks, paint recommendations? All of the above?
  2. GW Gandalf The White & Shadowfax

    Hi All! I've just been rearranging my display shelves & have noticed that I actually have a few minis that I have never shown on these boards. They are the first ones that I painted a few years ago when I returned to the hobby after many, many years. I will show the others soon but to begin with, here's GW's Gandalf The White & Shadowfax. The actual paint job is essentialy me getting back in the swing of things by copying the image on the miniatures' packaging, I made the base terrain(s) using air drying clay, gravel & sand & added some grass clumps to finish. Gandalf on foot Gandalf mounted on Shadowfax Back soon with something "big, ferocious & wingy" - thanks for looking!
  3. After two months of work, he is done! I give you ... Narthrax the White. If that's not enough for you, there are a hundred and forty eight more pictures in the WIP thread, documenting his development in excruciating detail. On a side note, as I made the final adjustments and took the photos, I finished watching the climactic episode of Critical Role. And it was awesome.
  4. 02048: Elquin the Daring

    I finally finished Jannus! For those who want it, my WIP is here. I decided to take the very first miniature I ever painted back in 1996 and paint a new version of him with using some of the things I've learned over time, even though I took about a 6 year hiatus from painting in the last 20 years. My goal is to show that yes, practice does improve skill. Also that if you keep painting, you can accomplish some fun and exciting things! This will be a present for our DM for years of herding us gamer-cats despite our varied schedules! This was one of reaper's earlier miniatures, sculpted by Sandra Garrity. Gotta love the tiny eyes! Here are the original and the new version side by side:
  5. Right. This project has been ticking in the back of my mind for awhile. The story starts about 20 years ago, when I painted my very first miniature for our D&D game, our NPC cleric from the Temple of Elemental Evil module. I love that module, and I loved our cleric more, since he managed to save/raise our butts more times than I can count. Jannus came from farmer stock, and took a tough love approach to healing, all stemming back to the dreaded 1 rolled on a healing check, subsequently involving salt in a wound. Good times. It became a standing joke for years to come. I love the way our epic failures are remembered far better than the successes! Here's my first attempt at painting him: The mini is a Garrity, Elquin the Daring. I was so proud of him!! I got paint in all the right places. His base is red since he was always wading through our spilled blood to save us. I'm using this WIP as a way to explain some of the changes that have occurred over time in miniatures painting, as well as to illustrate some of the things I've learned over the years. I like having my very first mini as a reference, because it shows we really do learn and grow and improve over time, and we should embrace that and feel good about it! Keep your old minis. Don't always just repaint them. you'll be amazed at how much things change even from one year to the next. Things I didn't know to do when I first stared painting: 1. prep the mini. 2. prime the mini 3. thin paint 4. color choices I'll get into all of those, but the first thing I did with my brand spanking new copy of Jannus was to clean all the mold lines, sand the metal smooth, wash it in dish soap and prime it. Then I put a base coat down. Right away, I've decided to go with a different color scheme. Clerics of St Cuthbert tend to be depicted in white and red, so I'm changing the plan rather than using the old color scheme. This still keeps with the theme, and I think will fit the character better anyway. Plus, I always need to practice red and white. Hard colors are good for me. Like spinach. The base coat colors are creamy ivory, mahogany brown, blonde hair and golden skin.
  6. 77030 Danar, Male Assassin

    Hi everyone. This is my version of Danar. Sculpted by Dennis Mize. I originally modified this figure to match my character in Flamehawke's PBP. It was a desert ranger specializing in sword and spiked shield two-weapon style. I chopped off its arm and spliced on one of the goblin's arms from Bones 6 pack of goblins 77030 I wanted light colors which would do well in a desert. I was pleased with both the white and yellow. The region in Pathfinder he comes from has a flag which is white, yellow and red. So, I painted the Celtic knot red to break up the all white cloak, and put red under the shield. This was an attempt at TMM on the sword and shield, but I was very unhappy with it. I also am not quite happy with the sand color, but it was an experiment. It was my first use of Pumpkin orange! I think it looks less Arizona desert, and more Martian landscape! I was hoping to add to the base with a barrel cactus, steer skull, and scorpion, but put that on the back burner while I work on other projects. Enjoy.
  7. Okay so my attempt at coming back a little while ago kind of fell flat on its face, and my attempts to return to painting have gone terribly. However, I visited Drifter the other day and we stopped off in London on the way to his, and we dropped into a shop which carried Reaper Bones I was so pleased I bought a new dragon and a unicorn. Hadn't been intending to buy minis at all, just to browse, but nevermind. I decided to paint the dragon today, and he's the Fire Dragon... However, I decided to try and paint him up as a white dragon, coz he's little, and for some reason I just didn't fancy painting him as a red. I'll do a red another time =P However, in painting my whites, I ended up going more frosty, and he's got notes of silver and all sorts in him. Wow my photo game is off at the moment :S but yeah, there he be. You can see in the last photo the shimmer on his wings Paints used: Citadel -Fenrisian Grey -Ulthuan Grey -White Scar -Runefang Steel -Guilliman Blue -Screaming Skull -Drakenhof Nightshade -Gehenna's Gold -Dawnstone -Mechanicus Standard Grey -Steel Legion Drab -Agrax Earthshade Primed with black Army Painter Spray. He's been popped on a 7.5cm MDF oval and based with sand, tea, and Army Painter tufts. Narthrax is sitting on the bookshelf next to me being annoyed that I started a new dragon in the middle of painting him. Nethyrmaul is staring resentfully up from the bottom shelf, loathing me for my terrible efforts at finishing his goopiness.
  8. I am in a bit of a pickle. I've searched around and tried looking at a few threads but I'd like to post my mini and get some concrete advice on how to proceed. I've thought about just spraying it white again, and keep it with the ghostly green all over, but I'd kind of like some additional detail, and thought the dress was great as blue,. It's the rest that don't want to work. Especially the hair and white threads: Any opinion is valid here. I just mainly need advice on what might work in regards to colour combinations. And maybe some advice on how to shade the white parts properly. Although I think I'll go with a creamy wash?
  9. Hello my fellow meatbags! I’ve heard complaints of working with yellows and reds as being the most difficult paints. But for me it’s always been painting white. After a quick rummage through the forums I couldn't find anything specifically dedicated to this topic: Working with white paint, how to highlight and shade and getting a good range of values. So I have been working on a project and it has been driving me crazy. I've stripped and repainted it several times already but never to my satisfaction. I would very like much to paint the miniature if a lovely white dress, but I can never really make the white highlights really pop. And then the shadows on white clothing always look a little off. I prime in white to make the entire thing easier, but it still feels like I need to apply thirty or more coats of white paint to really get it to really pop. Then if I have a mishap with shading it’s another thirty layers to get the pop back and then it’s a bath in solvent because it’s just not working. *Shakes fist in angry frustration* I’ve even got some Citadel white base and it feels like I need too many layers to really make things feel brilliant, like a color bomb, but in white. The easy answer, in theory, is to add more contrast, so the white on white highlights seem more brilliant. But in practice? I guess that’s what I’m looking for advice on. How do you make your white on white look good? Throw in a little bone white for shadow? How do you get your white clothing to really stand out? How do you do it without doing a bunch of layers?
  10. Hi All, When i do a wash, a drybrush or deluted white paint, (I tried a few different brands, Tamiya, Vallejo(all ranges) and Citadel) I find my whites to leave a somewhat grainy texture.. When airbrushing I find my tamiya to be the one who gives me the best and cleanest result, but I am still not truly happy with it. I use low pressure, a fresh clean gun and apply many thin layers to get the best results, but still not to my desired satisfaction. I know most white paints have less or larger piqments in them then lets say a red paint, but was wondering if there is a paint that has less of that grainy feel/texture to it. Which White do you all prefer for brush work and which one for airbrushing?
  11. 92797 "Silver Dragon" (White)

    I always wanted to paint a white dragon. Now I have. He glows eerily on my shelf.
  12. Painting White Dragon

    Hi, I'm planning on painting one of my Bones II dragons as a white dragon. I'm thinking of using Factory White and some Snow Shadow for the underbelly and wing webbings. Anyone have any tips for painting white. I guess my big questions are, Should I undercoat the white? What color should i use as a wash? Should I wash it? Any tips would be much appreciated.
  13. This is Otherworld's frost giant, a companion piece to the somewhat larger Reaper's Frorigh: Frost Giant. I painted a whole batch of frost giants, WIP here. As with Frorigh, I was trying for a raking, low arctic light effect. The lights are pale yellow, the shadows deep blue and violet. The figure has some fun details. He had a number of ovoid knobs on his tunic which I decided to paint up like red gemstones, garnets or rubies. The shadows are all painted on. I used metallic paints on the metals but also added lights, reflections, and colors.
  14. 02599: Frorigh, Frost Giant

    This is Reaper's other frost giant, the one who isn't in Bones. My husband was running a giant-intensive campaign and I thought he would be fun. I painted him in a raking northern light, with pale ivory light on one side and deep blue shadows on the other, with an attempt to show the reflectiveness of sky and snow. His clothing is patched and impromptu, his weaponry a little battered. I painted the metals with metallic paint but also painted reflections and shadows on them. There's a WIP thread here. Some of the pictures are taken from a low angle because it seemed right for a giant. Also, Frorigh is hunched forward and a little difficult to see from straight on (indeed, he is a little front-heavy and needed some counterweight to keep him from toppling forward -- you can see at the front of the base edge where I used epoxy to tilt up the front of the base about 2 mm). ETA: I have submitted him to the Inspiration Gallery.
  15. Gandalf the Short

    What kind of head is that on the staff anyhow? Lioness?
  16. So I was asked to do a tutorial on how I painted the marble on my Coraldrax [seen here: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/54577-coraldrax-sea-kaladrax/ ] like I did with my tutorial on painting rust: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/56249-siris-guide-to-painting-rust/ So here we go! This isn't going to be as good as my rust tutorial I think, it's using acrylics [since that's how I did it on Coraldrax, and I wanted to show how I did that] and really on Coraldrax it's barely visible underneath him, so I didn't worry about doing a pretty job with it. However, I think it can easily be done with hobby paints instead of craft, and be done much nicer than the way I do it, by using the same basics as i'll show below So I decided to use two flat surfaces, which are two half objective markers from my Secret Weapon Bag O' Crap and another base from the same Bag O' Crap that could pull off the marble look and actually has texture The colors I use are white, a light gray, a medium gray, and a very very dark green called Wrought Iron. I have black there as well, but I didn't use it My first step is to cover them completely in the medium gray color Then you use white and streak in the same direction. I usually go from one corner to the opposite corner. Don't be worried if the lines are fuzzy or blotchy or thick. Marble is seldom symmetrical and perfect, and this is just the base coat you're applying Now I break out my light grey and do the same thing, streaking in the same direction. This helps clean up your white lines a bit, and blend them a bit better so it's not so stark This next step will look very messy. Don't get discouraged! You're going to use a very small brush and your dark color. In my case, that is Wrought Iron. Your'e going to make spidery veins in the same direction as your streaking [you will notice I screwed up on one of my objective markers and went against the streaks >.< ] You'll want to dip your brush often, because plenty of paint means it doesn't get fuzzy edges. We want lots of crisp lines Now you'll go back to your light grey and white. I tend to mix them in even parts, and then dry brush it over the entire thing. At this stage, you don't HAVE to follow the streaking, but I still do anyways just because. This makes the veins fade Using pure white, we streak once more. Be careful not to entirely cover up your faded veins of dark color Now you're going to apply dark veins once more. You'll want them very thin, very crisp. If you look at pictures of marble, you'll see plenty of them have both faded and crisp lines through them And you're done! A final seal gets us our final marble look. As I said, a bit messy, a bit imperfect...but I'm sure with this tutorial you can get the basic marble look down and then improve on my own technique =) Finished markers: Finished little base:
  17. [Open]Deathsleet Bones

    Ok so I've started on one of the bigger dragons amongst all the smaller stuff that I've been working on as well (like skeletons mostly) and figured I might as well put up an Open WIP thread for him. At this stage I've assembled and removed the mould lines I saw with a mix of hobby knife and file. I noticed a couple of extras when I was putting the base coat on, but none of those are problematic enough for me to go back in with knife and file again to remove. I then glued him to a bit of cork. I then glued the cork to a 50mm square base (resin blank in this case, but plastic would do just fine as well), and because Deathsleet likes to lean forward and touch his toes with his forearms I glued the tip of his tail to the resin and cork with the help of a little boiling to get it flexible enough. This results in a dragon that is happy to stand proud. Gaps around the wings are filled with (Atelier) Moulding Paste (available in various brands from art suppliers for far less than GW charges for liquid greenstuff), you can see this on the base as well covering the join between his "broccoli" bases and the cork. Then I got out the LED blue and slathered it on. I'm still not certain what I'm going to do with the belly so it was left plain Bones. I'm not too concerned about the obvious brush strokes in the wings or the inconsistencies in the scales at this time. This colour is essentially the "deepest shadows" and so I'll be going over the whole model with drubrushing and so on as I work up to the mostly white dragon. One thing I'll note at this time is most art of white dragons actually uses grey as the base colour (stone grey for example from the KS paint kits) rather than white. You could actually readily paint Deathsleet in Rainy Grey, then glaze/wash with black ink and then drybrush back through rainy grey to pure white. This is far more in keping with the usual DnD/Pathfinder white dragon art. Anyway here is where my Deathsleet is at now; (Oh the red and cork is because he doesn't fit inside my shoebox light box....)
  18. Young White Dragon WIP

    I'm painting up 77026: Young Fire Dragon as a white dragon for an upcoming D&D game, and I was feeling a little frustrated and wasn't making very much progress, so I thought I'd take a few pictures and toss them up here. I still plan to give special attention to his eyes, mouth, and base. I am considering doing the little wing spikes and tail spikes as boney protrusions in a warmer white, shaded to a pale warm brown? I would especially like opinions on the wings: is the shading reasonable? Are the transitions smooth enough? Also, is there enough contrast on the body? His little cheek-flaps seem especially hard to pick out at a distance. Lastly, does he actually seem to read as white, or just pale blue? Colors are Snow Shadow, Ghost White, and Pure White, so far. (And I acknowledge the double challenge of both painting and photographing white is working against any useful advice I might receive.)