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#1 Froggy the Great

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Posted 21 October 2004 - 11:02 AM

Let's use this thread as a repository for varius painting recipes, so that we know we have just one place to look, instead of searching the entire archives every time we want to, say, remember how to paint red hair.

Post your paint recipes for various things, and specify paint brand names when possible. I'll be going through periodically and clearing out babble, so if your post is edited, it's seriously nothing personal at all. I just want to keep the resource from becoming cluttered.

With that, here's my cheat-file that I just found after having lost it for a few months. Much of this is direct cut and paste from other posts here.

Pale Caucasian skin (Kellyn)
Basecoat Oiled Leather
Blend up through Ruddy Flesh
Blend up through Caucasian
highlight (carefully) with Fair Maiden

Platinum hair (Jenova)
I have a very easy version: Basecoat in a bone colour (I use Coat d'arms Bone). A couple of layers of dilluted Coat d'arms Flesh Wash or any other warm brown colour. Highlight with the bone colour. Highlight with white.

Blonde: (paintminion)
For most of my blondes, I start with a Vomit Brown, adding white for highlighting or Ivory and glazing with various yellows. To get the deeper shadows I might put in some Bestial or Beige Brown or Oiled Leather.

Egyptian Skin: (Anne Foerster)
It's a mixture of Ink Extender, Aged Red Brick, Walnut, and Oiled Leather. I used about a 2:3:3:1 ratio, then highlighted with Oiled Leather and then Hawkwood.

NMM red bronze:(Anne Foerster)
Base color: Oiled Leather
Shadow: Aged Red Brick
Darkest Lined Shadow: 50/50 Walnut/Aged Red Brick
Highlight: Hawkwood
Second Highlight: 50/50 Hawkwood/Linen White
Brightest Highlight: Thinned pure white

Blonde (Ixminis)
Griffon Tan - all hair
Flesh Shade Ink - all hair
Griffon Tan - highlight all
Desert Gold - highlight almost all
Buckskin - Placing main light source highlights
Ivory - bringing it smaller fast
Linen White - really tiny
White - small as it gets

Leather (Smokingwreckage)
1. Base color bestial brown
2. Wash with Scorched earth brown
3. Highlight with vermin brown (thinned w/ water)

Red Hair (lstormhammer)
As for painting a redhead: White primer, GW chestnut wash, highlight with scab red, do the tips in a faint orange. Comes out well.

dirty blonde (lstormhammer)
first, a medium, sand colored base, atop that, give it a brown wash (or ink, or what-have-you). When that dries, add an even lighter sand color, and dry brush that on. Something else you can do is streaks of pale-pale hair in there.

Platinum Blonde (lstormhammer)
Start with your primed mini, then give it a wash of pale blue-grey. On top of that, drybrush white with maybe a drop of grey in it. It should come out well.

honey-colored blonds: (lstormhammer)
Sand color base, brown ink wash, light sand color with a faint hint of red in it (the red turns gold-ish when it's mixed).

black hair (cmv)
first i put on a basecoat of metallic black. then i go back over it and layer/drybrush in some silver. next i throw on some dilluted purple, blue, or brown ink. very easy and will give your mini's hair some sheen.

i start with a basecoat of a dark/warm brown or really dark orange. for drybrushing the next color i mix 1 part red, 1 part gold metallic. after you layer that in; drop some brown or chestnust ink into the recesses that you would like to shade. add more gold for a strawberry blonde effect.

grey hair (cmv)
i mix 2 parts mustard yellow, 1 part silver, 1 part metallic black. dry brush with off white.

Redhead/strawberry blonde (ThePolo)
Basecoat in a 'Sunshine Yellow'.
- Wash with an Orange Ink.
- Highlight with a 'Sandy' Yellow.
- If desired, drybrush with a very light amount of sandy yellow/white mix (2/1)

Auburn/Red (Indrid)
1. base the hair with a dark marroon (brown and scab red)
2. highlight the hair with a scab red or lighter shade
3. once more highlight it with yet a lighter color of the same color
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#2 Gabe



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Posted 21 October 2004 - 11:21 AM

Well, I'm still new to the whole NMM thing, but here is my NMM Gold recipe that has been turning out really well. It's simple, and only needs a few colors.

Over black:

Snakebite leather (GW) (may need acouple of thin coats)

start mixing in bad moon yellow (GW), probably 40/60 (snakebite/bad moon). (all of these highlights should be pretty thin in consistancy)

Add in more bad moon yellow, around 75/25 (bad moon/snakebite), again very thin.

Pure bad moon yellow may be used to add more "pop" or luster.

Start mixing in bleached bone (GW) or Ivory into the yellow, until you get a pale lemon color. This is the second to last highlight, so it shouldn't cover much area.

To finish things off, pure white hotspots should be added to the most extreme points. Without this, the NMM seems to look more like bronze.
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#3 Darkstar



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Posted 21 October 2004 - 11:50 AM

NMM Brown Gold

Basecoat Charcoal Grey...
Color 1. Beasty Brown
Color 2. Snakebite Leather
Color 3. Yellow Ochre
Color 4. Bonewhite

All colors VMC and VGC except Charcoal Grey which is American Accents

NMM Polished "Desert" Silver (very shiny/reflective blue sky silver)

Basecoat London Grey
Color 1. Azure Blue
Color 2. Ivory
Color 3. White

All colors VMC

#4 billr



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Posted 22 October 2004 - 07:10 PM

Bone -- This is my cookie cutter recipe It wors very well.

Basecoat medium or dark brown (not quite so important)
Layer Vallejo Model Color (VMC) beige
Layer VMC Ivory
put some VMC Natural Wood around the the base a bit, feather it up towards the top somewhat.
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#5 battleMountainminis



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Posted 03 November 2004 - 04:24 AM

Coppery Red Hair

Basecoat with Vermin Brown (GW)
Dark wash with 50/50 mix of Scab red and Scorched brown (add flo-aide to get it in deep but not so much it so it doesn't glaze the initial vermin brn. coat)
Re-highlight with Vermin brown on mid points of hair
then add 60/40 bubonic brown to the vermin
then bubonic brown on almost hot spots spots..
very thin chestnut glaze till coppery on all
then very tiny amount of firey orange if you want to make it a little more highlighted though I usually stop at the step before this.

Ghastly undead gray skin

Prime white or black (works well on both)
Solid coat of shadow grey(or other blue-gray) on flesh areas (make sure it's smooth)
70/30 mix shadow gray and Dwarf/ruddy flesh for first highlight layer (reddish/purple tone)
(can substitute a tanned flesh for a more brownish tone)
Add small amounts of Reaper MSP snow shadow or Reaper pro dove gray and a very pale flesh as needed to blend up on highlights
Work with THIN paints to keep it smooth

#6 Darkstar



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Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:18 AM

Rusty metal recipe.

My preferred method (and believe me, I paint ALOT of rusty armor/weapons/scenery) is this.

1. Water down some Parasite Brown. Aka Vermin Brown.
2. Apply to part you want to look rusty.
3. Let dry.
4. Wash with Dark Brown or Sepia ink or paint. Ink is better.
5. Let dry.
6. Drybrush with Vermin Brown.
7. Touch up the edges of the rust with the base metal color to make it look more like a natural fractal rust pattern, or "growth".

Very easy, very effective on NMM as well as trad metals. Happy weathering!

#7 Darkstar



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Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:31 AM

Skin tone recipe using only Vallejo Game Colors

1. Basecoat with Dark Fleshtone mixed with a touch of Dwarf Flesh, Goblin green, and Wolf Grey. This is a really nice color to basecoat flesh for a Dwarf especially. The green and grey are in there to simulate the actual color composition of Caucasian skin. Mostly for the ambience that those two colors lend to the reality of the appearance of the shadows of your skintones.

2. Wash with a Fleshwash to warm up the overall tone, and to darken the wrinkles and eyesockets etc...

3. Once dry, begin highlighting with your basecoat color again, I usually do my eyes after this step as it's easy to correct any overpainting with the following steps.

4. Add Dwarf Flesh to the mix and keep highlighting. Paint the eyelids in pure Dwarf Flesh and the lips, cheeks and tips of the ears.

5. Once you've blocked in all the major highlight/shading, start adding Skull White mixed with Bone White in a ratio of 3 drops Skull White to 1 drop Bone White. (or better yet, buy the color IVORY from VMC. Very handy color in terms of general usefulness.)

6. Keep highlighting all of the prominent features with this mix, ie the bridge and tip of the nose, the orbital ridges around the eyes, the philtrum, the chin and a little to the eyelids.

7. And for females, don't forget the make up on the eyelids, cheeks and lips!

#8 Digital M@

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Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:34 AM

These are recipes I have kept off of the boards. Many of them I noted who posted it, but not all. Let me know if one is your and I will give you credit.


Vampire Flesh (ANNE) -
Reaper Granite or Vallejo Neutral Grey, highlight up with like GW Rotting Flesh, then Highlighted up to GW Pallid Flesh or Vallejo Light Flesh, Final highlight, pure white, thinned to translucency

Starts as Reaper Granite or Vallejo Neutral Grey, highlighted up with a greenish-tan equivalent (like GW Rotting Flesh or Vallejo Game Colors equivalent, but you could make this color by mixing Reaper Ghoul Grey and Reaper Ivory, I would imagine...), and then highlighted up further with a GW Pallid Flesh or Vallejo Light Flesh (almost white but with a discernable pinkish tone--take Linen White and mix a tiny bit of Maroon into it). Final final highlight, pure white, thinned to translucency. Now, this is a demanding mix because you're using complementary colors to highlight each other (greenish and pinkish tones) and this tends to mean lots of almost-transparent washes with your neutral tones (extraordinarily thin grey and white) to pull them together. But that recipe is what I used on my second GD winner, and it turns out a fantastic luminous-but-dead vampiric flesh.

Now, if you're looking for something that's a lot faster, you can go: medium grey base, highlight up with the pale pinkish flesh, and then use a very thin greenish wash for shadows--that would give you the graveyard look with a lot less work. With ghouls I would just go greenish grey.

Undead Flesh - Basecoat black, Vallejo Us olive drab, Vallejo Khaki, Vallejo Buff, Vallejo Decktan
I painted those from darkest to lightest:

Zombie Skin Jenova
For a nice sickly green skintone I use Camo Green (CG) and Rotting Flesh (RF) (both GW).
1. Basecoat in CG.
2. Highlight with RF.

African Flesh-
50/50 Walnut and Aged Red Brick. Small amount of Oiled Leather. Normally 1 drop to the three I do for the base colors.
Lighten with Oiled Leather and Hawkwood, phasing out Oiled Leather in the lighter colors, and final highlights in Hawkwood.
This makes a beautiful dark skin color.

Egyptain Flesh Jenova
basecoat in Bestial Brown
highlight with Snakebite Leather
and finally Desert Yellow.

Egyptain Flesh Jenova
Snakebite Leather (SL), Scorched Brown (SB), and Bleached Bone (BB) (all GW).
1. Basecoat in SL.
2. Shade with SB.
3. Rehighlight with SL.
4. Highlight with a mixture of SL and BB. I usually don't put a lot of BB in the mix, maybe one part BB and two parts SL.

Indian Flesh (Jenova)
Base in Darkflesh
Highlight in Vermin Brown

Caucasian Skin (Jenova)
I use the following colors for painting Caucasian skin:
Bronzed Flesh (BF), Flesh Wash (FW), Elf Flesh (EF) and Skull White (SW) (all GW). 1. Basecoat with BF.
2. Glaze with thinned down FW (5-10 parts water, 1 part FW). Do this 3-5 times. Let dry between each layer.
3. Highlight with BF.
4. Highlight with EF.
5. Highlight with EF + SW (1 part of each).

Healthy Caucasian Flesh- (Stern Kestrelmann)
1. Black primer
2. Bestial Brown (basecoat)
3. Dwarf Flesh (two coats)
4. Elf Flesh (highlight/ blend)
5. Flesh Wash (light)
6. Elf Flesh (highlight/ dry brush)
7. Dark Flesh (wash/ medium)
8. Elf Flesh/White/Bleached Bone (mix 3:1:1/dry brush)
9. Flesh Wash (medium)
10. Elf Flesh/ White (mix3:1. dry brush) This is optional.

Healthy Caucasian Flesh- (Jennifer Haley)
Hill Giant Brown basecoat
Caucasian Flesh highlighting
Vallejo Light Flesh final highlight

Mix Chestnut into the HGB for lip/eye socket/cheek/nose/etc. shading. Darklining with Vallejo Black Brown or Reaper Walnut.

Healthy Caucasian Flesh - (ANNE)
fifty-fifty mix of Hill Giant Brown and Ruddy Flesh,
shadowed with Oiled Leather wash selectively applied,
highlighted up with gradual additions of Linen White.

Pale Caucasian skin (Kellyn)
Basecoat Oiled Leather
Blend up through Ruddy Flesh
Blend up through Caucasian
highlight (carefully) with Fair Maiden

Egyptian Skin: (Anne Foerster)
It's a mixture of Ink Extender, Aged Red Brick, Walnut, and Oiled Leather. I used about a 2:3:3:1 ratio, then highlighted with Oiled Leather and then Hawkwood.

I used to track these carefully, but have been lax for a long while

#9 Digital M@

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Posted 04 November 2004 - 11:42 AM

NMM Recipes

NMM Polished "Desert" Silver (very shiny/reflective blue sky silver)

Basecoat London Grey
Color 1. Azure Blue
Color 2. Ivory
Color 3. White

NMM red bronze:(Anne Foerster)
Base color: Oiled Leather
Shadow: Aged Red Brick
Darkest Lined Shadow: 50/50 Walnut/Aged Red Brick
Highlight: Hawkwood
Second Highlight: 50/50 Hawkwood/Linen White
Brightest Highlight: Thinned pure white

NMM Steel
Steel1: (Mengu)
Dark grey
Medium gray
Light Grey

Steel2: (Mengu)
Add a touch of blue to the mid tones of Steel1, but leave the extremes alone.

Steel3: (Mengu)
Dark grey + flat brown (2/1)
Medium grey + enchanted blue (2/1)
Space wolves grey

Steel4: (Mengu)
Medium grey + shadow grey + black (1/1/1)
Medium grey + shadow grey (1/1)
Light grey + space wolves grey (1/1)

White metals: (ANNE)
Neutral gray mixed with blue for midtone, black, and white.
Odd other colors in place of the blue for weird effects.

NMM Bronze & Copper

Red Bronze: (ANNE)
Midtone Oiled Leather,
shadow Aged Red Brick,
highlight Hawkwood,
Hawkwood and Linen White,

NMM Gold - snakebite leather, white mixed for highlighting right up to pure white edges and spots, and darker brown for some shading

Gold: Midtone (ANNE)
Oiled Leather,
highlight Hawkwood,
Desert Gold mixed with white,
pure white.
Darkest shadow Walnut.

Gold1: (Mengu)
Scorched Brown
Snakebite Leather
Leprous brown
Ivory (or Bleached bone)

Gold2: (Mengu)
Scorched Brown
Snakebite Leather
Bubonic Brown
Ivory (or Bleached bone)

Gold3 (courtesy of Verzani):
Scorched Brown
Scorched Brown + Vermin brown + leprous brown (2/2/1)
Above + more leprous brown + white
Continue to add white

#10 Vikinglodge



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Posted 08 November 2004 - 05:02 AM

Heres a gold NMM Recipe, I mixed cobra leather with some desert gold and some tube color Burnt sienne I was mixing by feal it turned out to look alot like oiled leather but a little bit darker.
That is what I use as a base right now and then when I start to hightlight I use my base with Desert Gold basicly half and half I succesivly add a little more desert gold for higher highlights and then a final highlight og buckskin. ::):

To add some warmth to the Gold I use a watered down Vermin brown GW color wich is a slightly redish brown for shading. It brings some richness to the gold important to have it very watered down with your extender to a glaze like concisty and load little on the brush at a time.

#11 Stern Kestrelmann

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 10:55 AM

A basic sword blade using metallics;
1. Prime black
2. Base with Bolt Gun Metal
3. Wash with black ink (watered down)
4. Let dry completely
5. Dry brush with BG metal again
6. Wash with black ink again
7. Let dry
8. Dry Brush with Mithril Silver (watch yer paint load)
9. Wash with black ink (heavier consentration this time)
10. Let dry
11. Final highlight with Mithril silver/ white mix
12. Final wash with black ink (moderate consentration)



#12 Gabe



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Posted 30 November 2004 - 01:14 PM

Here are some recipes for painting gems...

Red Gems
Dark Flesh, Dark Flesh + Blood red, Blood Red, Blazing Orange, Fiery Orange, white dot (or bleached bone) for the light reflection. Scab red could be used in place of the Dark Flesh.

Green Gems
Dark Angels Green, Dark Angels Green + Scorpion Green, Scorpion Green, Scorpion Green + Bad Moon Yellow. White dot for the light reflection.

Purple Gems
Liche Purple, Liche Purple + Warlock Purple, Warlock Purple, Warlock Purple + Tentacle Pink, Tentacle Pink. White dot for light reflection.

Blue Gems
Regal Blue, Regal Blue + UM Blue, UM Blue, UM Blue + SW Grey, SW Grey. SW Grey dot (or white) for light reflection.
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#13 BunnyPuncher



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Posted 30 November 2004 - 02:20 PM

BunnyPuncher's Orc Flesh (Green)

All colors are Citadel unless stated otherwise.

Step 1: Basecoat: 4 parts Forest Green (I use american folk art) + 1 Part Fortress Grey thinned with Magic Wash
Step 2: Wash with a thinned mix of 3 parts Dark Green Ink + 1 part Brown Ink
Step 3: 75% Basecoat + 25% Goblin Green on all the major highlights. Thinned with Extender. You want this to cover all but the deep recesses in the musculature.
Step 4: 50% Basecoat +50% Goblin Green. Thinned with extender. This should cover the raised portions of the muscle and face.
Step 5: Use a light grey to lighten the Step 4 shade. Keep going over smaller and smaller areas of orc flesh with greyer and greyer shades. You may need to add small dabs of goblin green to keep the mix green enough.
Step 6: On the super lifted portions of the Orc's face, you may want to bring out further detail with a mix of goblin green and grey.

I use extender mainly for thinning while shading as I find it easier to push the pigments about than when just using a thinner.

Experiment with the above as required to acheive differing "darkness" of orcs.


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#14 prophet118



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Posted 16 January 2005 - 09:25 PM

ive got one for Copper (metallic)..

i use citadel (gamesworkshop) paints... they've dropped copper form their line up, though they have some other metals that are close, like bronze, i think..

however, i found myself needing a copper, but not wanting to buy the old screw off top... so after my purchase of of some paints, i went home, and proceeded to think about how to make some...

i do not have exact parts down, but heres what i used to make my slightly dark copper..

start with a base of Burnished Gold, then add a small amount of Scorched Brown to it... you kind of want to stay with a 2:1 ratio... so that it still has that hint of goldish to it..

#15 prophet118



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Posted 21 January 2005 - 11:01 AM

ive been mixing up some other metallic colors lately... ive got green (2 forms, 1 mixed with 1:1 burnish gold, and the other mixed with 1:1 mithril silver.. both using dark angel green) a ruby (1:1 mixed with burnished gold (red gore as the base)

a blue (2, one mixed with 1:1 burnished gold, and one with a 1:1 mithril silver)

now i know, i shuld give up metallics, right?...im having too much fun..lol

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