Posted 21 January 2005 - 05:34 PM
Basecoat in a pinkish light tan.
Streak with a medium brown but do not cover all the pinkish tan.
Repeat the streaking with a reddish brown, an orange-yellow. burgundy, burgundy-brown. By this point the original basecoat should be covered and the other colors should have blended a bit over the basecoat to form a nice vibrant red head of hair. This is how I did the hair on the Allura Conversion and also on LSH's Dice Box.
If it is to bright dull it down with streaks of reddish-brown. If it is to dull add more orange-yellow and burgundy and burgundy-brown.
Sometimes depending on the look I am going for I will go back and add streaks of the original basecoat color.
The Federal Government has sponsored research that has produced a tomato that is perfect in every respect, except that you can't eat it. We should make every effort to make sure this disease, often referred to as "progress," doesn't spread. -Andy Rooney
Posted 11 February 2005 - 09:34 AM
The Fleshtone recipe is:
► Base Coat with Reaper Master Series: Midnight Blue
► Wash with GW Black Ink/Future Mix
► Layer with Reaper Master Series: Twilight Blue
► Highlight 'up' to GW Shadow Grey
► Final highlight with VJ Wolf Grey
Took me a few 'falures' to come to that one... the rest ended up too blue, or too black or too grey. I think that's a good mix of the three, right? tongue.gif
The hair is pretty simple:
► VJ Space Wolf Grey
► Wash with GW Blue Ink
► Highlight 'up' to VJ White
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Posted 18 February 2005 - 02:05 PM
well I started with a really dark brown wash to fill the lines and spaces, but I dont remember which brown I used. Probably VGC charred brown.
Then I layered up with
RMS Tanned Leather
RMS Amber Gold
RMS Golden Blonde
and finally some white tidbits for the highest spots
Posted 01 March 2005 - 07:51 AM
GW Scorched Brown as base coat, then GW Snakebite Leather as a highilight, then some diluted GW Bestial Brown as a wash, then after that dries, another wash of GW Bestial Brown, with a bit of yellow in it.
Posted 26 May 2005 - 01:40 PM
Layer up with Ghost White.
Wash with Stone grey.
Light drybrush with Ghost White.
Posted 03 June 2005 - 09:44 PM
Start with a basecoat of black. Then take any dark red (Reaper Blood Red will work; I used Apple Barrel Maroon) and put a heavy drybrush coat over the metal, leaving any pits, dings, etc., black. After it dries, take any bright white metal (Reaper True Silver) and put a light drybrush coating over the maroon. Boom, you're done.
This technique nicely picks out the edges and anywhere else that rust would logically rub off and expose the metal underneath.
Also start with a basecoat of black, then take any pale yellow green (I use Apple Barrel Meadow Green, but Reaper Plains, or a 50/50 mix of Spring Yellow and Emerald would probably work) and put a light drybrush over it, again leaving any pits, dents, slashes, etc. black. This gives it a nice Verdigris look, like the Statue of Liberty. I think Bronze and Copper both turn green when they oxidize, but I failed Chemistry.
Posted 06 July 2005 - 07:48 AM
The new Ochre Golds rule for NMM gold.
09073: Chestnut Gold
09074: Palomino Gold
09075: Buckskin Pale
Throw in Mahagony Brown or Earth Brown for the Darkest shades (as suggested in the new CW) and some Linen White/Pure White for highlights. It's very, very nice.
"I got a nice new jacket for Christmas. It buckles in the back and let's me hug myself. The problem is it's only available in white."
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Posted 06 July 2005 - 08:13 PM
One part Rust brown
Two parts Ancient bronze
Posted 02 August 2005 - 06:48 PM
The hair...it's really hard to explain how exactly I do it. I've tried here before, but it comes out like reading an issue of Popular Science devoted to light refraction. I can give you the colors though! Reaper MSP Golden Blonde Triad highlighted with a Linen white thrown in. A little different than my standard Elven Light Blonde, but works well for a nice Human hair color.
NMM gold take #1: I worked with a basecoat of Muddy Brown, then established some reflections and the skyline with a midtone of Tanned Leather. I mixed in a bit of Marigold yellow and worked through up to Amber Gold, Golden blonde, and White for the highlights. It came out pretty good. The mix needs to be more Ochre to be really good though. It's a nice, old gold type of brown gold, worked well for his armor, but it's not really a "yellow gold" NMM technique.
Posted 26 August 2005 - 12:15 AM
The range of colors I draw from are:
Varying the mixup can change the tone of the gold easily; leaving out Mahogany Red and Chestnut Brown results in a colder gold, leaving out Brown Liner can make it warmer, etc.
The Muddy/Mahogany/Ocher Series/White result can be seen here.
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Posted 20 September 2005 - 04:42 PM
<font color='#ADA96E'>LOL.. sorry didn't mean to offend anyone. I was just implying a sample of normal human skin of caucasian, not meant to point that caucasian people are the normal human :D
I myself is an Asian, so here we go for the Asian skin tone color. Again all colors I use are GW paints and all the water-paint mixing is still the same as my previous post:
Wash with Bestial Brown for crevices
Basecoat with Leporous Brown
1st highlight with Bubonic Brown
2nd highlight with 50% Bubonic Brown 50% Elf Flesh
3rd highlight with Elf Flesh (if sharp highlight is desired)
Found this digging around for asian skintones and it's perfect (yeah Lili) thought I'd move it to the recipe section so it's easier to find
Posted 21 September 2005 - 06:43 PM
I use mostly Vallejo Game Color (VGC) with a couple Vallejo Model Colors (VMC) to expand my selection. All of my Nefsokar models were primed white. There are conversions charts for Games Workshop to Vallejo Game Color. I am not aware of such a chart for the VMC. I get confused on which number to use from the VMC color, so I will use it from their color chart.
Base with 1:1:1 of VGC 44 Dark Fleshtone, VGC 45 Charred Brown, VMC 804 Red Beige and I add some slow dry mixture. I apply a liberal wash of VMC 939 Smoke (transparent). Smoke is also available in the VGC line and I assume they are the same. I layer with 2:1 VGC 44 Dark Fleshtone, VMC 804 Red Beige. You can layer and work towards more VMC 804 Red Beige in the layer mix until you get the effect you want or decide enough is enough. I only applied one. That is only 3 steps to Egyptian skin.
VMC 837 Pale Sand (that’s what my bottle said, the chart says Sand Light) thinned to almost a wash with a slow dry, flow aid mixture similar to those posted by experts in Reapers painting tips. I really don't even start with a base. I use the white primer as the base and apply washes. Another application thinned in the same manner of 1:1 VMC 837 Pale Sand and VMC 875 Beige Brown. A final application thinned with just flow aid to get into the creases of the wrap with VMC 939 Smoke (transparent). The Smoke is great stuff. 3 steps to mummy wrap.
Here are my results.
Posted 01 July 2006 - 04:35 PM
Base with Blue liner (9066)
Shade with pure black (9037)
highlight with a mix of BL (9066), rainy gray(9038) and snow shadow (9021)
highlight with a mix of RG (9038) and SS (9021)
Highlight with a mix of Misty Gray (9090) and ghost white (9063)
finish with a pure white highlight (9039)
Posted 10 January 2007 - 10:24 AM
My latest NMM gold:
1. Basecoat Uniform Brown:Russet Brown:Harvest Brown at a ratio of 4:1:1 or so
2. Darkest Shadow Russet Brown
3. First Highlight 50/50 basecoat mix and Palomino Gold
4. Second Highlight Palomino Gold:Clear Yellow:White at 4:2:1 ratio or thereabouts
5. Third Highlight 50/50 mix of the second highlight and white...add a drop of Clear Yellow for a little more vibrancy if it needs it
6. Glaze with Intense Brown or Brown Ink to warm everything up and smooth layers. You can either just glaze the basecoat/shadows area or glaze the whole thing if you like! I usually do just the shadows.
7. Re-apply Third Highlight if necessary to brighten (if you glazed everything)
8. Final Highlight Pure White
Item numbers: Uniform Brown 9127, Russet Brown 9199, Harvest Brown 9200, Palomino Gold 9074, Clear Yellow 9095, Intense Brown 9138, Pure White 9039.
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