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Gu4rdian

Hello there

7 posts in this topic

Hi boys and girls!

 

As my title implies, I am new to the forums. I've browsed the site for a few days now and I must say that these minis rocks. I haven't painted for a few years (about 10) now and I seriously want to start again.

 

I'm afraid that I will have to re-buy all my stuff (paint all dried and brushes all dead). So, I wanted some tips from more experienced people.

 

1) Do you use acrylic paint or oil?

2) What brushes do I really need to buy? (1x 00, 1x 1 ??)

3) Is it possible to scratch off all paint on my previous minis? I think they're done in oil (I was young and naive, so, I used the paint for mini cars, if you know what I mean).

 

I guess that is about all my questions for now, hope you can help me!

Thanks in advance.

 

 

P.S: I'm sorry if my English is sometimes poor, I'm a French-Canadian.

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Hi! Where about? I have a huge soft-spot for Quebec, particularly the walled city (and sledding across the Plains of Abraham)

 

To answer your questions -

 

1) I prefer acryllics personally. I've seen some BEAUTIFUL jobs done with oils and minis, but that is a skill-set I totally don't possess and acryllics work fine. My personal paints of choice are the Reaper Master Series paints (especially with the addition of the bone colors and rosy flesh colors), Citadel Paints (I really like their reds and earth tones) and the vallejo model colors for historical miniatures. I also like using the Adiken paints quite a bit as they have a great line of "fantasy" colors.

 

2) I use the Loew-Cornell white nylon brushes myself as they are inexpensive and no little critters have to die for my painting pleasure - but I can honestly say using a decent kolinisky sable brush is a nice experience.

 

3) I'm not sure how it will work for oils, but it should work - if the model is metal, try soaking in in simple-green, or pine-sol over night and then taking a toothbrush to it under running water, you should be able to remove the paint. Then re-primer and voila! you are set to go. (Model paints are usually enamel - and this method should work as well)

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Welcome aboard! I hope that you will find this board to be a fun and welcoming place to be as I have.

 

I was in almost exactly the same boat as you when I joined the boards here. While I haven't really gotten the painting thing going on a regular basis yet, I have picked up several pointers along the way. I too used to use the old Testor's enamel model car paints. This is not the easiest thing in the world to remove, but I found that soaking them for a couple of days in a Pine-sol bath worked pretty effectively. I also hear that Dot 3 Brake Fluid works pretty well and is much less fragrant, but I haven't tried it yet. The Pine-sol is pretty fragrant, so I would use a container with a lid if possible. Once they have soaked, I give them a good scrubbing with a hard bristled tooth brush then another scrubbing with a softer bristled one to really get the paint out of the details. When you're finished, rinse the mini with cool tap water. You'll notice that the color of the mini is much darker than a new one, I don't really know why this is, but if you get your toothbrush wet and scrub it on a bar of soap, then scrub down the mini really well and rinse it again, most of the discoloration will be gone. You may still have some very slight pigment here and there on the mini, especially from strong yellows, greens and reds, but it makes no difference once you've primed it again.

 

As for paints, it appears that most people here use acrylics, so that's what I bought. Seems to be a big difference of opinion as to what paints are the best, but since I am just starting out, I bought a variety of colors of regular craft paints from Walmart that seem to work fine for me for the time being.

 

Hope this helps you out!!

 

-Stefan

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Well, thank you both for you answers!

 

I will go take a look at what I have to buy to start all over again. I guess I will start with something a bit cheapest than the Reapers Paints (low budget and bad money conversion rate).

 

I'll try your trick to remove the paint to see if it works, but it seems to be a good solution.

 

As for Quebec, I live in a small town east of it, at about a little hour far from it (it is called St-Georges or St-Georges de Beauce).

 

Just out of curiosity, you have some pictures of your paintings? I'd like to see them if you don't mind ::D:

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Check the Show-Off section for examples of other's paintjobs.

 

I use 3M Safest Strip. I used it to remove old Testor's enamel and it worked very well. My experience with Pine-Sol is not only did it discolor the mini, but even after cleaning it as mentioned by styates, it turned color again. The 3M stripper will not discolor your minis and works in a matter of hours. Pine-Sol and Simple Green took about a week of solid soaking, scrubbing, soaking, scrubbing, ad naseum to remove most of the paint (but still didn't get it all). Cost of the 3M stripper was comparable to the same amount of Simple Green, and you use less at a time (it's a paste you can paint on and allow to sit rather than filling a jar).

 

As for the removal of paint: Invest in a cheap electric toothbrush. This saves wear and tear on your arms. Also, beading needles. These help you reach into the tiny crevices to pick out the itsy bitsy parts. Just be careful not to break them.

 

I use water-based acrylics (easier to clean with). Be careful about getting the oil-based as they tend to take longer to dry and can't be mixed with the water-based.

 

Brushes: Windsor-Newton Series 7 Kolinsky. :wub: I've tried others, but they would hook after the first use. I use those now for things like drybrushing or applying glue.

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To remove Testor's enamel paints from metal, use acetone straight from the bottle. Put some acetone in a glass jar, add the enamel painted minis and watch the paint dissolve. Testor's enamel should be nearly gone in 5-10 minutes of soaking in acetone.

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