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can i fix dried up paints


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#1 patrick harmon

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 12:57 AM

i paint a miniature every month or so but often certain colors don't get touched. i'm not sure what cause it but my while leather and slime green (reaper pro-paints) were dried up when i went to use them. the green wasn't to bad it was still quite liquidy just a little thicker than normal. so i added thinner my first mistake was i used an alchohol based thinner! it turned it into a almost latexy goop. it's dead and in the garbage now ::(: as for the white leather it's very hard! is there anyway to restore it? and what kind of thinner should i use for normal reaper pro paints/vallejo game series paints?

#2 demonelf3

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 04:49 AM

Get ACRYLIC thinner, add to taste, stir, paint. Alcohol is only for oils. Look for like a Reaper flow improver, or you could just use water.

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#3 TaleSpinner

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:21 AM

Water should work fine for thinning acrylics. Typically, it is the water that has evaporated and so that is what needs to be replenished.

If the paint is hard, you're out of luck. Once or nearly dried, nothing will bring it back to useable shape again.

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#4 Heisler

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 08:25 AM

Quite frankly if its even close to being hard I would toss it. You are going to have hard little chunks in your paint that will ruin the finish. If you are using pots and find this happening frequently then you probably have paint in the threads and the jar is not sealing properly. So make sure the threads are clean. If its still an issue then smear a little vaseline on the threads and that should take care of the sealing issue. DO NOT GET VASELINE IN THE PAINT, so be a little careful.
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#5 patrick harmon

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 02:07 PM

kks thank you! i cleaned all the threads in my pots. i only had 3 casualties out of 80 that havn't been touched for almost 1.5 years i think that's not to bad. and of the three they were frequently used and yes had a lot paint in the threads. i had a few that were getting slightly thick that i just added water to, shook up, and they seemed like there consistancy came back to life quite well. but one thing. the thinner i used before was tamiya color. acrylic pain. x-20a thinner that's why i thought it was ledgit and smells like 70% isopropyl alchohol and well it's made in japan and the directions are japan on the back too. o wellz water it is... it's free and there's lots of it i guess i'll just keep to the KISS theory. Keep It Simple Stupid :)

thank you everybody for the help and hope to talk to everybody more and share our great experiences,

patrick harmon

#6 ferret

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Posted 08 May 2009 - 03:42 PM

I haven't had much of a problem with paint drying out because I check all bottles every month or two, add a bit of distilled water if the paint seems to be getting thick (and check seals on any that seem to be drying out). But, I have bought new paints that have lost up to 50% of volume and were nearing a toothpaste consistency; and they were fine after adding water and mixing. (Newly purchased Pro Paints, including some "old series" paints I just bought, rarely need water added; but a substantial portion of the Master Series do. )

A number of people have suggested I should try flow improver rather than straight water, but the Liquitex Flow Improver I use indicates it should be used sparingly to avoid negatively affecting the adhesion of paints. So, to be safe, I use only distilled water.

I don't know if it applies to Reaper or other miniature acrylic paint, but in the past I experienced problems with paint that had been stored for several months separating even though there was plenty of liquid in the bottle. Basically, the pigment would sink to a sludge on the bottom which formed lumps when I tried to mix the paint. So, although it may be unnecessary, I shake up all my paints up during by regular inspections to keep the pigment in suspension.




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