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Bones n Primer


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#61 Frankthedm

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 06:04 AM

Sorry, because how easily the metallic drybrushing came off the mace head, taking most of the marker ink with it, I decided it was dip time. The ink liked the paint more than the bones and just let go of the bones.

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#62 Last Knight

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:10 AM

I just hit that bugbear with black gesso, I'll let you know how it goes. :-)

I think it worked out pretty well.
2012-10-07_10-32-48_570.jpg

There are a couple of spots where the gesso pulled back as it dried, leaving pinpricks, but this is normal (in my limited experience with gesso), and easily cleaned up.


2012-10-07_10-32-56_74.jpg 2012-10-07_10-33-09_552.jpg

The gesso doesn't interfere with the Bones' flexibility; no cracking at all when I bent this mace around. :)

2012-10-07_10-34-22_49.jpg
And no real loss of detail between primed and unprimed, which is probably the best news of all.
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#63 bloodydrake

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:16 AM

that looks promising. Where can you get Gesso?

#64 Last Knight

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 10:41 AM

that looks promising. Where can you get Gesso?


Art stores. I got my bottle at Michael's; it was $15 for an 8 oz. bottle of the black. Clear was less expensive, not sure about white. 8 oz. didn't seem like much, but the stuff covers extremely well - I've been using it unthinned, blobs that look like they'll wipe out details shrink down surprisingly well as the stuff dries.

I've heard some mixed reviews from people saying that gesso is inappropriate for minis because it's too fragile, more prone to chipping with use, &c; I've also heard astounding reviews from people who say it's held up as well, or better, than their spray primers. YMMV, use with caution, and yadda yadda... I'm doing fairly well with it thus far, I think, but I'm still just getting started. I think the lack of cracking from the bendy mace speaks for itself.

Currently DMing Boldly Into Darkness Go: Down The Murder Hole.

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#65 Miar

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 08:08 PM

Gesso is that brushed on or sprayed? Hmm

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#66 Last Knight

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 08:11 PM

Gesso is that brushed on or sprayed? Hmm


Brushed, although I've heard of people using it, thinned, in air sprayers.

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#67 Loim

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Posted 07 October 2012 - 09:22 PM

I've also played with Gesso some as a primer. I got a 15oz bottle of the Liquitex Basics Acrylic White Gesso at HobbyLobby for like 8 bucks and some change. And it lasts forever.

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#68 smokingwreckage

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 12:16 AM

Gesso is pretty thick, you need stiff brush.

 It's the perfect time to put on  your yellow boots and go meandering around the woods looking for...well stuff. In my experience looking for stuff is the best way to find it. -Loim


#69 Last Knight

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 10:46 AM

Gesso is pretty thick, you need stiff brush.


I've been using a Testor's model brush I bought in a bundle... no problems. This is liquid gesso, though.

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#70 smokingwreckage

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 05:13 PM

Oh, OK. Regular gesso is about the consistency of yoghurt. Also: you can get gesso in a spray can.

 It's the perfect time to put on  your yellow boots and go meandering around the woods looking for...well stuff. In my experience looking for stuff is the best way to find it. -Loim


#71 ced1106

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Posted 13 October 2012 - 03:13 PM

Some more data points:

* Rustoleum "Also bonds to plastic" Painter's Touch Primer: Slightly tacky after spraying, compared to conventional plastics. Sorta acceptable, but not recommended.

* Reaper's Brush-On Primer: No problems Very slightly tacky, almost unnoticeable.

* Reaper's Brush-On Primer, thinned 1:1 : Beads up. Not entirely unusable, since you can see more details than the unprimed figure.

* Army Quick Shade Ink: Same as thinned primer.

Interestingly, if you just prime the figure in black, you will see more details than in the original unprimed figure as light bounces off of it!

EDIT: Used a toothbrush to remove the primer. Tried gesso + dark paint as a pre-wash to bring out the details, then paint. Worked fine.

#72 bloodydrake

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Posted 11 November 2012 - 02:52 PM

I forgot to reply with my results.
I used Army Painter colored primer
Greenskin on the bones Cave troll, Leather Brown on the Bones Gnoll and Uniform Grey on the Ghost.

All three are completely dry after 30mins no tackiness at all.
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#73 Blackhawk

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 06:00 PM

Coming back for another report. I've now primed and painted several pieces with Army Painter primer, and the results are perfect.  Fast drying, no tackiness, no cracking or peeling after several months.

 

If you're going to spray-prime Bones, Army Painter is the way to go.


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#74 mistergreenwood

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 12:43 PM

I haven't used gesso on Bones yet, but I used it on cheapo minis and army men. It shrinks and does not (or barely) hides the details. Great thing about brush-on gesso, is that you can colour it with a bit of paint (the white one that is, of course).


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#75 Baugi

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 02:29 PM

I use black gesso for metal minis, and have now used it twice for Bones with no problems at all. I didn't thin it, just made sure to paint it on thinly and soak away any globs or pools. I should say that it isn't necessary, as bones plastic takes paint well without priming, but I like to start with a dark surface, so it works for me.

Edit: as to the question of brand or where to buy it, I got a big squeeze bottle of Bob Ross black gesso from Michael's.

Edited by Baugi, 27 January 2013 - 02:33 PM.

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