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Kickstarter Discussion Thread

Bones Kickstarter

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#3991 Exwilly

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 09:18 AM

If I may suggest, if you do go with synthetics and craft paints, still get a good kolinsky sable and some skintones for faces, also some gold and silver for detailing. Getting even a single coat on details on-target with a crap brush is hell on earth and was holding me back from about my second miniature.

You might then want a couple of other miniature paints for specific details, like a red-brown and a dull brown-red for stylised reddish leather, or two shades of brown, or a tan plus Coat D'Arms Brown Wash ink. Any of those will make painting in straps pretty easy. The Reaper teals triad is very very bright and "pops" for painting in gems or other decorations.

Reaper, GW, and other hobby miniatures have details, and even getting a single coat on them with a bad brush is just self-flagellation. If you don't want to paint straps, buckles, studs, eyes, faces, gems and so on, then that's fine, but most people will want to and I strongly recommend a decent brush or two, and a few nice flowable miniature paints for those jobs. I'm only stressing this because bad brushes caused me so much grief starting out back in the early 90's, and again, you can paint-and-dip and ignore the details. But even a single well placed colour on the details can really bring it up a notch and be very satisfying... and to do that you need tools that aren't fighting you.

A good brush and nice paints can make fast paintjobs even faster, and can be much more enjoyable to use. But definitely have some cheap trash brushes for basecoating, and those times when you have to ram them tip-first into a tricky gap.

i do agree. i tend to get a new brush(Detail brush/ fine detail brush) every 6 months or so due to using them so much. but of course ive been painting minis since 94/95(which from then to now is a super difference which i might add was 8th grade for me).
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#3992 Daria

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 09:46 AM

As far as paint additives go, I personally find retarder (slows down the drying process) to be a must have. I mix colors, and find it incredibly frustrating when my paint dries on the pallete (or brush!) before I can get it on the figure.

#3993 Pingo

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 09:48 AM

My experiments with retarder gave acrylics an unpleasant, rubbery texture. Is it different with Reaper paints?

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#3994 Daria

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 09:50 AM

I don't know, I use citadels without that issue . I also tend to add a little water too though.

Edit: Could also be a side effect of adding too much retarder, it's suppose to be used in very small amounts.

#3995 Qwyksilver

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 09:52 AM

Diluting the retarder in some distilled water has never given me a problem. With either tube artist acrylics or MSP. You need very little. I've always used W&N Slow Drive fluid retarder. You don't want to use the gel SloDri on minis.

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It's terrifying!  Without enough caffeine your body undergoes these hours of partial paralysis and hallucinations! :shudder:

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#3996 Ampersandrew

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 10:22 AM

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte? It seems to me that the wet palatte is supposed to cure these same problems and I'm wondering if you have any experience of it.

I'm only starting to get into painting and I've assembled the stuff to make a wet palatte, I'm just waiting for my first bones figure to be delivered to start into painting.

#3997 Qwyksilver

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 10:28 AM

I've had wet palettes for years. Use them sometimes. Especially if I plan to paint an army so I have color consistency.

I have a premade gunk that includes slow dri, flow aid, distilled water and acrylic medium. Its easier to transport a dropper bottle. One $5 bottle has lasted me years.
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Sacrificing minions: is there any problem it CAN'T solve?

- Lord Xykon, OotS #192

Beowulf ll. 1538-1543
... Pay no heed to proud thoughts, famous champion. Now the flowering of your strength is but for a while. After a while, the time will suddenly come that disease or the sword's edge will cut off your power. Either fire's grasp or flood's surge or blade's bite or spear's flight. Or vicious age, or the flash of your eyes will gutter and burn out! It will be all at once, great campaigner, that death will overpower you.

 

It's terrifying!  Without enough caffeine your body undergoes these hours of partial paralysis and hallucinations! :shudder:

- Argentee


Black Lightning: MA010.


#3998 Serenity

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 11:09 AM

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte?

I use a wet palette most of the time now. The welled palette gets used mostly for watery mixes and for the water/flow aid mix I add to the paint on the wet palette. I keep the water/flow aid mix in a dropper bottle, but I find one drop is often too much for the tiny amounts of paint I use.

Using the wet palette, I don't need any retarder. This is in a typical midwest A/C environment. Other drier locales may need retarder much more than I do. Wet blending techniques may need it, too, but I mostly use layering (very thin paint on top of dry layers).

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#3999 Corporea

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 12:25 PM

windsor newton and davinci make good sable brushes. fyi, if it hasn't been said before for new painters, NEVER leave your brushes sitting in water.
oh, you mean I can put stuff here?  cool!  now to think of something...

#4000 ced1106

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 01:09 PM

Have any of you guys recommending the use of retarder tried using a wet palatte? It seems to me that the wet palatte is supposed to cure these same problems and I'm wondering if you have any experience of it.

I'm only starting to get into painting and I've assembled the stuff to make a wet palatte, I'm just waiting for my first bones figure to be delivered to start into painting.


As a fellow n00b, I'd recommend getting used to flow retarder and matte before retarder and wet palette. I can put a drop of craft paint with a drop of matte and flow aid, take a nap, and can still use the paint!

Do NOT wait until March to start painting. The Reaper mini's are highly detailed, and it's no fun wrecking your favorite miniatures. Get a Learn to Paint Kit and learn the basics.

#4001 Ampersandrew

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 01:44 PM

As a fellow n00b, I'd recommend getting used to flow retarder and matte before retarder and wet palette. I can put a drop of craft paint with a drop of matte and flow aid, take a nap, and can still use the paint!

Do NOT wait until March to start painting. The Reaper mini's are highly detailed, and it's no fun wrecking your favorite miniatures. Get a Learn to Paint Kit and learn the basics.


Thanks for the tips.

I have the first four of the learn to paint kits on order, but since they have to ship them across the Atlantic I don't expect to have them for a couple of weeks. I got home from work tonight and found a bones troll #77004 waiting for me, so I'll be having a bash at that with the stuff I have on hand.

#4002 Daria

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Posted 03 October 2012 - 02:16 PM

I don't like wet pallets just because I'm lazy. It's more work for me to set one up, and then a used one always smells funny. With a bottle of retarder I can just squirt and go.

But wet pallets are great for Army painting, as already mentioned.

#4003 klawzie

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Posted 05 October 2012 - 01:35 AM

Veni, vidi, vici.

Took me about three days, but I finally caught up reading this entire thread (though I did skim some of the edition wars/metal v. plastic tennis matches)! As I mentioned to Buglips, who PMed me after I inundated his dash with Likes for making me laugh, it was like experiencing the fun of the Kickstarter all over again. ;) (But now I'm all sad panda about it being over. Again. Not recommended for therapy.)

Daria - I did hear in my wandering around during the KS that the funny smell of wet pallets could be gotten rid of by using (I believe) rubbing alcohol instead of water. (Maybe it was peroxide or witch hazel. One of the three, in any case.)

#4004 Heisler

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Posted 05 October 2012 - 08:06 AM

My wet pallet has never had any kind of odor. It if does then you might try putting a penny or two underneath the sponge.
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#4005 ced1106

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Posted 05 October 2012 - 09:00 AM

I have the first four of the learn to paint kits on order, but since they have to ship them across the Atlantic I don't expect to have them for a couple of weeks. I got home from work tonight and found a bones troll #77004 waiting for me, so I'll be having a bash at that with the stuff I have on hand.


Nice!

Have you done pre-inking before? Basically, you prime a miniature in white then apply a black ink to get the details. This finds mould you may have missed before priming, as well as helps blackline / add shadow to the recesses.

http://privateerpres...elp-suggestions

Bones does not take wash directly on the plastic BUT I've heard that you can thin down black paint to have a similar effect. So, basically, you can do some experimenting before your LTP kits arrive, *and* have a miniature ready to paint! (:

Also, start reading up on flow aid and matte.





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