Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Evil Savage

Painted Product Pics

57 posts in this topic

I've noticed recently that all the new figures are given a paint job. While I understand that it's more eye catching, and it may be inspiring, but I find it kind of limiting. I personally would prefer an unpainted picture when ordering models. I've actually painted over the raw pictures in photoshop to plan out my color scheme.

 

It's been bugging me for a while, but I really caught my attention with the release of the pictures of the Red Petals Su model for Deadlands. Unless you're a long time deadlands fan like me you might not catch it, but Su is Chinese, and the picture for the model makes her a blonde.

 

Basically, I think the paint jobs are beautiful, but I'd really like to still have the an example of the raw unfinished model that i'm going to actually get.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i ll prefer unpainted minis (if i want color i visit inspiration gallery)

 

73d3e54e07c2228744908285b303b817.image.220x348.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to admit while the painted product is nice & can show you what some various things & such that you can't see in the whites. I'd rather see the white when purchasing & such. I will admit on other websites with painted mini examples I've kinda been turned off on them due to the painted example.

 

Still thou, Reaper offers various stages of the minis from greens to whites to painted, a little digging is all you need to find what you want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about a compromise? Show a side-by-side of the unpainted mini (based grey so we can make out the details without shine from the pewter), and of an inspirational sample painting job.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The primed versions are supposed to be posted as well as the painted ones. I'll see about why that isn't happening any more. Someone probably misunderstood something. I've been so busy with other things I hadn't noticed the omission. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't even like primer on sales photos since it leaves the possibility a gap may have been filled before priming and the primer can hide any filing marks from mold line removal. Few years back mold lines were pretty bad on warlord figures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not priming the miniatures makes them awfully hard to photograph though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me the best way to show a figure for purchase is how Darksword does their, metal with a dark wash. That way you can see the mini in it's metal state, yet you get to see all the fiddly bits as well.

 

RM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We've done it both ways. Doing the white primer photographs better and gives us more consistent results for the catalog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like seeing both the white primer version and a painted version.

 

As stated above, sometimes a painted version shows me details that I would have missed with the primed-only version.

 

I noticed this issue recently with only the Pathfinder line. Has this also been an issue with the other lines?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did wonder why the newer releases didn't have whites up. I love the painted examples, as it does let me see things I wouldn't, but fiddly details are never the reason I buy a mini, so an unpainted version that shows the gross concept well is all I need to see.

 

I much prefer to see white-primed than bare metal.

 

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man, this seems like an unexpectedly sophisticated problem. You need enough contrast in the figure itself to see details, which is really difficult to arrange for something that small (For big objects you can do it with lighting and reflective surfaces, but on the micro scale that's way hard.).

 

Primed is probably the best compromise, although haldir's suggestion of a dark wash may help pick out fine details.

 

While I enjoy seeing painted minis, especially individual and different interpretations of them, for evaluation for buying a plain photo is better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

 

$ 9.99 for a resin mini <_<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

 

$ 9.99 for a resin mini <_<

 

$9.99 for a resin mini is on the low end of prices for resin minis and I consider it to be quite reasonable after spending upwards of $25 for other companies' reason miniatures.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And I have Darkfathom...and he's worth every penny. It's a lovely sculpt, with awesome detail.

 

My original concern is just about the composition of the model, not the value. It'd be nice to know where the break between resin and metal happens, if I need to plan conversions and such. But I fully trust Reaper where value is concerned; I have yet to find a mini that I felt Reaper charged too much for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Pezler the Polychromatic
      Hello and welcome to the Repository of Paint Arcana! After all this time being here on the forums, I've come across a lot of excellent tips and innovative methods for using paints, and I've been trying to collect what I can for my own use. I thought that it might be a good idea if we all had a central thread where we can post all the interesting things that we've come across. While the majority of posts would certainly be about Reaper paints, I welcome suggestions about any kind that you have. Know a paint that would be a great base for a certain colour? Post in this thread. Know a mix that makes a really vibrant hue? Put 'er right here, pardner. Got a link that shows steps to make a great effect? That's right, you know where it goes. I know that every one of you has something cool that you've come across, and I would urge to to put it here.
       
      09124 Adamantium Black: If you use this to highlight a black basecoat, it serves well to make things look like a beetle carapace.
       
      Tamiya X-27 Clear Red + UHU Glue= Bloody gore
       
      Also, A nice little tip from our illustrious @Mad Jack:
       
       
      These are just examples but feel free to give the community any great tips that you have!
    • By Chris Palmer
           Just wanted to post some pictures of a few figures I finished up recently in an effort to clear off some of the stuff that's been gathering dust on my paint table, so they'd be ready for the game table.    I'm not 100% sure of the identity of each of these figures other than manufacturer.  
       
       
      The first is an old Heartbeaker Hobbies and Games sword-woman.
      The second is a pirate from Eureka
      The third was some sort of witch or sorceress (I can't exactly remember), from the Deadlands game. 
       






    • By Mehman
      Right then. I'm looking to switch to Reaper paints from Citadel for various reasons and would like to know if there are any tips or tricks for doing this. I figure this forum is the best place to ask. Plus, I like you people already. Y'all are my kind of people. Well, most of you. Except that one person...
       
      I've gotten a spreadsheet off the intertubes that has a rough guess about colour matches for the two ranges (including a few others, too) so I know which paints are similar. I'm going to continue to use Citadel's metallic and shade range as I'm used to the former and the latter are better than anything else I've seen barring what I can create - that is, unless someone can convince me otherwise.
       
      Here's my biggest problem: I own most of the range from the other company. I think I'm missing two colours out of the bunch. Should I bother switching at this point? Am I too far in to do this? It's not like I'm running out of paint every week - those paint pots last a while in this house - so replacing them as they get used is going to take a long time. That's fine, I guess. I just want the shiny new stuff now.
       
      Other than replacement, is there anything else I need to know to ease the process? Blocks of 54 paints at a time seems reasonable enough but, then again, this is coming from the guy that buys all the models for one solo campaign just to switch to another setting. That level of "reasonable" is what you're working with on this query.
       
      If this isn't in the right place for this post, please move it / delete it / kill it with fire. I'm still figuring the in's and out's of this particular forum. (I did notice there was no reception table in the lobby, though.)
    • By Mutilatedlips
      From an older set called Deadlands. One of many rescue minis from the bottom of a box in a friend's storage. Something about him was sounding like The Fly, calling out to me. "Paint Me"...."Paint Meeeee."
      He also has some pretty bad burns and probably leprosy.
       
       
       
        
       

       

       
       
       
       
       

      This is to help somebody with painting eyes. Since I can't figure out how to just post a pic from my computer into a comment.
    • By 72moonglum
      So for a while now I've been incorporating the dark elf skin triads into my washings and shading quite a lot depending on the colors, but they are becoming kind of common for me.  Does anybody else use them for the same purpose?
       
      Just curious....
  • Who's Online   38 Members, 0 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)