Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Evil Savage

Painted Product Pics

57 posts in this topic

I've noticed recently that all the new figures are given a paint job. While I understand that it's more eye catching, and it may be inspiring, but I find it kind of limiting. I personally would prefer an unpainted picture when ordering models. I've actually painted over the raw pictures in photoshop to plan out my color scheme.

 

It's been bugging me for a while, but I really caught my attention with the release of the pictures of the Red Petals Su model for Deadlands. Unless you're a long time deadlands fan like me you might not catch it, but Su is Chinese, and the picture for the model makes her a blonde.

 

Basically, I think the paint jobs are beautiful, but I'd really like to still have the an example of the raw unfinished model that i'm going to actually get.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i ll prefer unpainted minis (if i want color i visit inspiration gallery)

 

73d3e54e07c2228744908285b303b817.image.220x348.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have to admit while the painted product is nice & can show you what some various things & such that you can't see in the whites. I'd rather see the white when purchasing & such. I will admit on other websites with painted mini examples I've kinda been turned off on them due to the painted example.

 

Still thou, Reaper offers various stages of the minis from greens to whites to painted, a little digging is all you need to find what you want.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about a compromise? Show a side-by-side of the unpainted mini (based grey so we can make out the details without shine from the pewter), and of an inspirational sample painting job.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The primed versions are supposed to be posted as well as the painted ones. I'll see about why that isn't happening any more. Someone probably misunderstood something. I've been so busy with other things I hadn't noticed the omission. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't even like primer on sales photos since it leaves the possibility a gap may have been filled before priming and the primer can hide any filing marks from mold line removal. Few years back mold lines were pretty bad on warlord figures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not priming the miniatures makes them awfully hard to photograph though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me the best way to show a figure for purchase is how Darksword does their, metal with a dark wash. That way you can see the mini in it's metal state, yet you get to see all the fiddly bits as well.

 

RM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We've done it both ways. Doing the white primer photographs better and gives us more consistent results for the catalog.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like seeing both the white primer version and a painted version.

 

As stated above, sometimes a painted version shows me details that I would have missed with the primed-only version.

 

I noticed this issue recently with only the Pathfinder line. Has this also been an issue with the other lines?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did wonder why the newer releases didn't have whites up. I love the painted examples, as it does let me see things I wouldn't, but fiddly details are never the reason I buy a mini, so an unpainted version that shows the gross concept well is all I need to see.

 

I much prefer to see white-primed than bare metal.

 

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Man, this seems like an unexpectedly sophisticated problem. You need enough contrast in the figure itself to see details, which is really difficult to arrange for something that small (For big objects you can do it with lighting and reflective surfaces, but on the micro scale that's way hard.).

 

Primed is probably the best compromise, although haldir's suggestion of a dark wash may help pick out fine details.

 

While I enjoy seeing painted minis, especially individual and different interpretations of them, for evaluation for buying a plain photo is better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

 

$ 9.99 for a resin mini <_<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But...With part-resin figs (e.g., Eregris Darkfathom), I'd love to see an unprimed picture--in addition to the primed and painted (and often the green) versions--that shows the different parts. With Darkfathom, the online store does have the caption that mentions the resin body, but I'd love to see the extent of it before purchase in future such models.

 

$ 9.99 for a resin mini <_<

 

$9.99 for a resin mini is on the low end of prices for resin minis and I consider it to be quite reasonable after spending upwards of $25 for other companies' reason miniatures.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And I have Darkfathom...and he's worth every penny. It's a lovely sculpt, with awesome detail.

 

My original concern is just about the composition of the model, not the value. It'd be nice to know where the break between resin and metal happens, if I need to plan conversions and such. But I fully trust Reaper where value is concerned; I have yet to find a mini that I felt Reaper charged too much for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Mehman
      Right then, here's another question about the Reaper paint line. The last question was two months ago but I still feel like I'm bugging everyone. Anyway, I've decided to finally take the plunge and do some serious paint ordering for my solo game miniatures. Before I order at the end of the month (to get that Diva model for nothing), there seems to be a hiccup: there are a few different black paints in the line.
       
      I'm looking for a black to basecoat... black, funnily enough. There's Pure Black, Dragon Black, Noir Black, Nightmare Black, etc. Which of these (and the others not listed) would be closest to Citadel's Abaddon Black? Some of the blacks have a blue hue, brown hue, or whatever for different looks, but it's hard to tell from the sample mockups which ones have those hues and which don't. If anyone could break those down for me, I'd be grateful.
    • By Chrom.xh
      Hello every body, this will be here not to show off anything amazing or impressive. Just something that took me five and a half hours to do. Nothing to impressive or anything like that. Its a fairly simple paint job for this old miniature. It has been sitting on my portable painting desk for many years now, and I felt like it was time to finally paint it. So I could use it in Dungeons and Dragons if I ever played a Dwarf again or just to use in anything with Dwarves in it really. With the new system of being able to upload photos straight to here from a device, it may be a little weird. I have never used the new Reaper system for photos so lets see how it works. I will still be explaining everything to the best of my ability. All of the paints i used besides one were all Reaper Paints. So, lets get started.
       

       



       
      Okay, so these four photos are of the Dwarf miniature as a whole. I had to paint over the entire mini with black because it had taken some damage to the prime that covers it. After i had painted the entire thing I let it dry and took the pictures so I wouldn't forget to take them.
       



       
      Next I painted on the metallic colors that i knew i was going to do and I could see. This included the small amount of Chain mail showing under his massive beard, the large Warhammer and his shiled. These were done first in Shadowed Steel. Then I did the few detail pieces that I wanted in Antique Gold. After I painted those few things I realized that I hadn't painted the Rune Stone he is standing on. So I quickly mixed up a wash of the color... well Stone. I forget who the Stone wash is made by but I added some water and I think Glaze Medium. Chaoshead will yell at me in the comments to tell me i'm wrong since i was using most of his paints. Anyways, I did a couple of coats of the Stone wash and moved on to let that dry for a while.
       


       
      While I was letting the Stone wash dry I went on to other colors. I pulled the Rainy Grey out to do the fur that lines the inside of his cape, not realizing I had missed some it will show up later. This step was fairly easy when I was painting it on, but then again the entire thing to me seemed easy and I don't really know why.
       



       
      After the inside of the cape i moved on wards and started to paint Leather. I used Ruddy Leather for anything leather on the Miniature. I started with the gloves then moved on afterwards.
       





       
      Alright, in these few photos I painted more leather onto his sleeves, belt pouch, boots and the bottom of his Chain mail shirt. This step frustrated me because I accidentally painted over some of the metal, so I had to go back and paint the metallics again. I then moved on to some detail work that may have taken the most time to do... I think.
       
       




       
      On the Rune Stone, I used Breonne Blue to add some color to the... Stone. XD I wanted to paint the runes from the beginning of this small project. I think the Breonne was a good choice for the runes in the first place.
       


       
      Here I had finally painted his massive beard. I used Mahogany Brown for his beard since it was the only one within my small amount of paints that would work. I liked my choice of color for his beard though.
       



       
      In these three i painted the trim of the cape with the Ruddy Leather. I painted it very carefully to make sure I didn't get any on anything else. I already had to repaint Metallic colors earlier and i didn't want to do it again.
       

       
      Continuing with the cape i painted it Leaf Green and had to do it a couple of times to make sure it was one solid color.
       

       
      Painted the face with Tanned Skin and then used Grass Green to paint his eyes. Again this is all just a super simple paint job for this mini and is just meant to be a good, fun, little thing I like to do.
       

       
      As a final thing to finish this Miniature off was a nice little touch that I thought of last second. I painted the small heart on his cape with Blood Red. 
       






       
      The Dwarf is done! He is done in all of the simplest ways to paint that I know how. XD If you all enjoyed and have some tips or anything to leave for myself. Please leave a comment and i guess stay tuned to here or another one I post in the future.
    • By Sophie was taken
      Hello everyone!
       
      So I had to move cross-country about 2 1/2 years ago and had to box up all my hobby stuff. But now, circumstances require I get back into things (and I still have all those unpainted Bones IIs). So I managed to track down all my supplies and paints, but some settling may have occurred in transit - nearly all of my paints had fallen over from their upright positions and sat that way for the entire time. 
       
      I have almost 40 bottles; most have been opened and used at least once, but none leaked at least. When turned upright the paints didn't immediately run down to the bottom, but they still slosh around when shaken. I haven't tried using them yet. 
       
      Would they still be good, or should I take the loss, or is there a way to save them? Most are basic colors but a few were special promos that aren't being made again, and it would be a shame to lose those ☹️
       
      Edit: I should clarify these are all Reaper paints.
    • By Dosani
      Hi, i saw on amazon a paint mixer/stirrer that its similar to the ones for drinks or coffe, only this one is for hobbist paint, its brand is badger.  I custom made one that its really similar to this one and actually fits inside reaper bottles.
       
      I just used it on some reaper and vallejo paints that i have for a while, some of them especially the vallejo ones were kind of gummy with pigment on the bottom, i used my custom stirrer  and solved the issue! .  Thing is, it works very well, but on reaper i feel as if it makes the paint less dense, and in some colours like pale saffron and lemon yellow this is more evident, is covers well but feels a little similar to watercolor in its consistency . Maybe its because the stirrer is quite potent and spins very fast, so wanted to ask help to anyone that have experience using a stirrer for mixing paint and also ask Anne Foerster or some people that actually work with the composition of paint, if any of you are seen this, please help ! ;) will really appreciate it.
       
      If i use this product can i harm the reaper paints that i have? Also  on the other hand mixing the paint like this can have any positive effect as well? 
       
      Thanks for all the help, i always count on this forum when i need some important facts or tips ;)
    • By CrazyK
      Have to have a laugh in both humor and happiness after finally pulling my finger out and making a paint shaker out of a old jigsaw and a clamp.   Did it mainly to give my Reaper Paints a good shake.   But at work had a realization that I can use it to shake all the old pro paints I have squirrelled away in the hope I could do something to get the old paints back again.   The jigsaw shaker has resurrected paints I thought had long died.  Am SO freaking happy.   Some paints had settled so much they were just pigment and liquid.  Heh all fixed up now.  WOOT!
       
      Only downside is that it is a bit loud.  Am sure my neighbors must think I am doing a hell of alot DIY atm LOL
       
      Anyhoo that is all.  Had to share.  
  • Who's Online   25 Members, 3 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)