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I speed-painted these over two afternoons to be a party of NPC adventurers for an eclectic mash-up of Exalted and the World of Darkness. They are 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke).
WIP thread here.
My GM needed a party of NPCs fast for a game of Exalted set in the World of Darkness (think fantasy characters popping up in a modern day world, more or less).
There was no time to order anything, but we had the handy new Bones III core and Mythos sets.
These are the Bones minis 77322, Kassandra of the Blade (sculpted by Werner Klocke); 77405, Aeris, Female Elf Ranger (sculpted by Julie Guthrie); as-yet unnumbered Mythos figures based on 50032: Jake Ryan, Hero Explorer (sculpted by Bobby Jackson) and the Victorian Lord from the set 50326: Victorian Lord & Dame (sculpted by Bob Ridolfi); and as a free bonus 77409, Flara, Elf Heroine (sculpted by Werner Klocke), who was simply a "Vale Swordsman Elf Grunt" in metal (she was the first character picked for the one represented by Kassandra of the Blade, and I painted her up anyway as an extra and useful figure).
I painted these really fast -- for me -- in two afternoons, one to prime and paint faces and one to paint the rest of them. It's not quite my one-hour robot speed paint, but for me it was super fast and the results are more tabletop-quality than my usual run.
First I washed and primed all the Bones with Reaper's Brown Liner. I did not clean flash up as much as normal owing to the tight deadline.
Skin work, using simple mixes of earth pigments plus white: Burnt Umber (for the darker skin tones), Burnt Sienna (for the pinker, lighter skin tones), Red Iron Oxide (for really pink skin) ,and Yellow Ochre plus Titanium White. Hair was laid in with the same palette plus Carbon Black.
Rough shading with ruddy Burnt Sienna-Titanium White shadows and greyer Burnt Umber-Titanium White shadows.
This character, a former Fae, has dramatic blue-streaked hair. This is a classic mix of Phthalocyanine Blue and enough Titanium White to make it opaque.
Hi, long time no type!
I've been waiting for the Bones III figures to arrive specifically for this figure, because I wanted to try an old technique I used to use - Tamiya Clear paints over a metallic base. This is pretty much a speed technique for armored figures. It took me about an hour (not including time to let coats dry) to:
Prime the figure using Reaper Blue Liner Base coat with Vallejo Model Air Steel Wash with Reaper Steel Wash Drybrush with Vallejo Model Air Silver Finish with Tamiya Clear Smoke over the top (this is effectively a tinted gloss sealant) Dot the sensor holes with Reaper Pure White & add two coats of Reaper Clear Red over the top The base is Reaper Concrete glazed up with Reaper Stone Wash used for definition. It's delibrately very clean - I could scuff it up and make it look a lot more worn, but I like the clean lines for this figure.
This is Patrick Keith's 50246: Marie, She-Bot, famous from the old Fritz Lang movie "Metropolis," and two other robots Johnny Lauck sold adjacent to his sci fi Salvage Crew.
I painted them up in less than an hour. WIP thread here.
So my husband is running a game this Saturday and he asked "Do you have any robot figures?" and I said "Ummm, let me get back to you."
Happily, I had on hand a copy of Patrick Keith's 50246, "Marie She-Bot" familiar to film aficionados from Fritz Lang's seminal "Metropolis". I also had a handful of little robots from Johnny Lauck's Salvage Crew.
So I glued them together and primed them and painted them very simply with metallic paints. The whole thing took less than an hour.
For metallics I use the principles I learned for gilding: Everything has a color underneath it, usually a rust-red for gold and a black or grey for silver (or aluminum or palladium -- I never could bring myself to gild with something that could decay as fast as silver leaf).
I originally planned to paint the Metropolis robot gold, so I primed her with Red Iron Oxide.
Then I did the same with a little monkey-robot from Johnny Lauck (ignore the two little guys to the right; I didn't get further than this with them and I plan to paint them like plastic anyway, if I get to them before Saturday).
Then my husband pointed out that if I painted the Metropolis robot silver she could stand in for a Moonsilver Alchemical later on. D'oh!
... Okay, so now I was going to see what silver paint looks like over brick red. For science!
I washed over the two red robots with dark paint to bring out the details: Burnt Umber on the little monkeybot, as is normal for under a warm color like gold. But then I used straight Carbon Black on Maria She-Bot since she was going to be cold silver, and black generally looks cold under other colors. I notice that she looks just like the Chinese lacquer sculptures I've seen around, a point worth remembering to try some other time, perhaps.
I also painted black primer on the servo on the left, another Johnny Lauck 'bot. I had to glue that one to a fender washer as it had a tendency to topple over to its left; otherwise its base had been the same size as the other Lauck robots. That's also why it appears now; its glue was setting while I was priming the others. (Once again, ignore the two on the right.)
I then took my good #2 Winsor and Newton series 7 brush and drybrushed silver metallic paint onto the armed servo Lauck 'bot and Marie, She-Bot.
... I find using good brushes helps give a lot of control and evenness, even for this. This wasn't the really scrabbly kind of drybrushing anyway, more like stroking tiny amounts of unthinned paint over the high points of a countoured surface.
Anyhow, you can see the different color effects based on what went under the silver paint, black on the left and brick red on the right. You can also see the detail level difference between Johnny Lauck's sculpt and Patrick Keith's.
Then I did the same thing, only using gold metallic paint, to the Johnny Lauck monkey robot.
I painted their bases solid black. Normally I like a base with at least a neutral grey with shadows, but I was in a hurry and the black contrasted better with their metallic shininess.
I also added a few details, red eyes on the Lauck robots and a glowing yellow inside the armed Lauck bot's gun barrel (Which I see I didn't take pictures of. Need to fix that for the Show Off thread).
And there you have it. Really really fast quick and dirty robot painting. Total painting time: About forty minutes. (With prep time, work time is probably an hour, or a smidgen more)
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