9 posts in this topic
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
I was wondering if anyone has used gel medium for making water effects and how it went? I'm making a diorama and need to do water effects but the base doesn't really allow for me to pour resin. I'm making a little stream and need to figure out the best way to do this. Or if there are any other easy ways to do water effects would also be appreciated.
I've put together another couple of experimental hills. Number 1 we've seen before.
Hill #2 has a mix of steep, impassable faces and more-or-less flat terraces that a figure could stand on without immediately tumbling down. It's a bit more usable than Hill #1, while still remaining reasonably naturalistic, but to be truly playable it probably needs to be blockier still. Apart from the flock, vegetation is pretty minimal — just a few areas of clump-foliage — and I think I may add a bit more to make it look a bit less... spotty. I may also have to hit it with the airbrush, as the flock looks a bit more pallid than I'd hoped, but I'll give it another couple of days before I do that as it may just be that the PVA holding everything together isn't properly cured yet so it's still a bit white. We've been having some cool, wet weather lately, and that has really slowed things down.
Hill #3 is a two-peak hill; the upper one is steep, with a flat top to allow figures to stand, while the bottom one is much more gently sloped. The slope is still too much for single figures, but vehicles and figures in movement trays will rest there without sliding back down. There's no foliage on here at all except for the flock, which is fine.
The figures are a 15mm WW1 British 18pdr and crew. The tank is my own 3d-printed A1E1 Independent. They're all sitting on a GW "grass" mat that I picked up cheap some years ago, and have never used because it looks nothing at all like grass. I live in a Land of Grass, and I've never seen grass that looks anything like that colour. Add to that the fact that it sheds worse than a cat in moult, and it's just bloody awful.
About this project
A starter 3D printer begins around $220 (see F.A.Q.) Each pledge level includes all previous pledge levels. The optional $10 Add-On sets shown below can be added to any pledge level by adding the appropriate amount to your core pledge, or select one of the 'Hero' pledge levels that fits your needs. There is no pledge level that includes the 'Prior Kickstarter Add-Ons'. You must add the amount for these sets to whatever pledge level you choose. We do not use an after-campaign pledge manager. All pledges must be in by the end of the campaign. DRAGONLOCK™ is an interlocking terrain system that allows you to create fully modular, multi-level 28mm scale village terrain for your RPG or wargame on your home 3D printer. Each set is delivered in a downloadable .stl format via our online distribution partner DriveThruRPG.com, and once you have the set, you can print as many pieces as you like and never run out or need to purchase more. These terrain sets represent the culmination of over twelve years of gaming terrain design experience.
Fat Dragon Games is the only 3D printer terrain company that is part of the prestigious DriveThruRPG Community Content program, which includes Margaret Weis Productions, Monte Cook Games, and Wizards of the Coast’s DMs Guild. Our Dragonbite Community Creator program allows YOU to sell your own Dragonbite-compatible terrain designs on DriveThruRPG, RPGNow, and Wargame Vault!
By supporting us through Kickstarter, you get bonus models that won't be available later, and access to free stretch rewards. We have been in the 'print-and-play' terrain business for over twelve years, and have successfully delivered eight previous Kickstarter projects, so you can pledge with confidence that we will deliver a high-quality product on time.
FREE STRETCH REWARDS that will increase the size of the terrain offerings will be available to anyone pledging at the 'Realm of the Mountain King' pledge level or higher. Spread the word about this project to your friends and post about it on Facebook, Twitter, Google+, etc., and GET FREE BONUS MODELS as the pledges rise!
A standard dungeon wall piece costs around $0.40 in plastic to print yourself, far cheaper than factory-made terrain! All of the models shown were printed at 100-200 micron resolution, a common standard on most economical 3D printers. A nice starter printer that can print these files starts around $220 (see our F.A.Q. for more info on printers, printing costs, filaments, and more.)
Even if you don't currently own a 3D printer, it benefits you to support this campaign now. You can get all of the free stretch rewards, exclusive content in some sets not available later, and have a digital library of village terrain ready to go when you do purchase a printer.
SPECIAL THANKS TO REAPER MINIATURES for allowing us to use their miniatures in our photos and video! (www.reapermini.com)
CLICK HERE FOR A FREE SAMPLE SET OF DRAGONLOCK!
We are known worldwide for our attention to the smallest details. Our models feature richly detailed textures by industry-leading sculptors.
Our models feature high resolution sculpting detail.
PLEASE NOTE: All images that are digital renders are clearly designated as such. We don't want digital renders being mistaken for a real printed model in our previews.
Digital render of the 'Wilderness Encounters' pledge level (final design subject to change).
Sample layout from the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level.
Digital render of the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level (final design subject to change).
Sample layout from the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level.
Gargoyle brazier model from the 'Dungeon Delve Part 1' pledge level.
Since one of my September goals is to at least start the terrain for Dragons Don't Share, I figured I should get cracking.. I opened the box a couple of weeks ago and after a couple of unsuccessful sessions with boiling / cooling, I resigned myself to basing of some sort.
I picked up a slab of hobby plywood at the local hardware store and then proceeded to burn my dremel out trying to use it like a jigsaw. Since we were in between paydays, any further expenses had to wait. So, in the interim, I glued the top of the tower together and green-stuffed the spaces..
This morning, I picked up a jigsaw and cut up some pieces.. (you can see the burned wood where I was ruining my dremel)
As a test, I have glued the smallest piece to the wood - I abortively used Contact Cement, which didn't stop the warpage even after it dried. A Bunch of superglue later, I was ready for a base layer.
Stormy Grey, followed by a wash of RedStone, followed by a wash of Stormy Grey (to cut the redness somewhat) and a thin wash of Misty Grey.
After all that, I remembered that I had picked up Stone Wash on a whim a while back (after doing Narthrax's rocks maybe?), so after this mess dries and I get done with the kids for the evening, I'll see what that does to it ..
There's a lot of stone here and this is going to take me a good long while to do :)
Well, I had started Hirst Arts ruined field stone tower in an attempt to build terrain for Frostgrave. After building some of the wall section, I had a bit of a Cat-trastophy with them. My cat decided those pieces would look better on a cement floor... in pieces. Since I posted in the September goals thread that I want to try and finish the building of the tower this month I thought I would post where I was in my progress. Be warned, my skill are very lacking, as there are several uneven level, but it is a ruined tower.
There are going to be three level inside the tower that are being pressed in an attempt to keep them level. Here is a shot of the pieces apart.
I'll be more than happy to take any advice.
Who's Online 40 Members, 2 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)
- Paradoxical Mouse
- Grumpy Cave Bear
- Xiwo Xerase
- Egg of Coot