Jump to content

Wren

Bones: Frequently Asked Questions - Unofficial!

Recommended Posts

I assume that's spray-on? I haven't used that exact product, but aerosols (primer or sealer) are generally not recommended. They often react poorly with Bones, resulting in a sticky, never-drying mess. Try Reaper's (or another brand's) brush-on sealer instead.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you mean Matte Varnish on a completely painted mini, you shouldn't have any issues. The only possible issue might be that the varnish is not as flexible as the mini. You definitely won't get stickiness, since there is no Bones plastic interacting with the varnish.

 

As far as varnish on an unpainted mini, it can work, but not very well. Definitely worse than using a real primer or just painting straight on. And to set the record straight, you definitely can prime Bones. Brush-on primer works fine, as do several brands of aerosol. Army Painter primer works fine on Bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you mean Matte Varnish on a completely painted mini, you shouldn't have any issues. The only possible issue might be that the varnish is not as flexible as the mini. You definitely won't get stickiness, since there is no Bones plastic interacting with the varnish.

Nope. Paint is porous, and there have been many, many reports of people messing up their completed Bones with aerosolized sealers. Steer clear of spray-on varnish for Bones. I nearly ruined a whole batch of rats and my Mr. Bones this way.

 

(For the record, you can fix tackiness with a coat of brush-on sealer, if anyone does end up with this problem.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't heard these report, though admittedly I haven't been reading many WIP threads lately. I've successfully used both Dullcote and Army Painter Matte Varnish over a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear with no ill effects.

 

I would not bring this up except that people keep phrasing these things in such absolutes: "do not prime Bones" or now "do not use spray sealer on Bones." I have primed and spray sealed several Bones so I know you can do it. I'm okay with "many people have issue with priming/sealing - check your brands."

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For a dip effect:

 

I CONFIRM that Liquitex Acrylic Matte Varnish with Liquitex burnt umber tube acrylic in a 4:1 ratio works on as a good brush-on wash, and it dries hard and cured, even the gloppy bits.

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't heard these report, though admittedly I haven't been reading many WIP threads lately.  I've successfully used both Dullcote and Army Painter Matte Varnish over a coat of Krylon Crystal Clear with no ill effects.

 

I would not bring this up except that people keep phrasing these things in such absolutes: "do not prime Bones" or now "do not use spray sealer on Bones."  I have primed and spray sealed several Bones so I know you can do it.  I'm okay with "many people have issue with priming/sealing - check your brands."

This.

 

I have spray primed with good and bad results. I have spray sealed with good and bad results.

 

Avoid THIS brand for priming/sealing is far more helpful to the average consumer than "avoid sprays".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a little go on a leftover bones base I chopped off with Tamiya Brush-On Fine Grey Primer on lacquer basis. It did not dissolve the base and does not feel tacky. It provides an extremly sturdy basecoat. I am unable to scracth it at all with my fingernails, a toothpick can not lift it and only a needle is able to produce a scratch.

 

The primer is also sandable, so if you find a spot that is not perfect, use some sanding paper and it comes off as a powder, instead of strings.

 

I can only recommend this primer for Bones, if you feel the miniature needs it. In combination with a good sealer this should produce some very resiliant miniatures. Only downside might be that that stuff will not come off easily if you decide to repaint a miniature and it is comparatively expensive. However, overspray is a thing and I would wonder how much paint is wasted this way.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone specifically tried the Krylon Fusion tan paint in the camouflage series? That's essentially the base coat for my Terran CAV models and I will soon have 20 of them to paint. Being able to continue to use the spray paint would be a big help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Will there be another bones kickstarter with fantasy based miniatures?  I missed the first two.

It is possible that we might at some point do one, but no plans have been formally announced, and I am unaware of any planning meetings for any such project.

 

We have some kinks to work out first, if at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Add sealer info to FAQ please.

 

Lots of comments to sift through a lot of them contain the phrases "I think" or "it should be ok"

 

What I would suggest is a section in the FAQ "Sealing Bones with Clear Coat"

Please include: brush on, spray (which ones work and which ones to stay away from), matte finish.

 

I mistakenly used the Krylon. matte clear coat on some of my minis and they became sticky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There's no sealer section currently because I haven't done thorough testing on sealers. I do not seal my own painted Bones. Paint sticks to them pretty darn well, and I have no qualms about playing with them, or even literally tossing them around the table, unsealed. The main thing I suggest is to take just a little care in storing them. Basically just something to keep them from banging into each other too much in storage. (So even between pieces of bubble wrap in a box with enough padding to keep things from falling around in transit.)

 

In an ideal world I'd like to test sealers, and it was my intention to do so, but in the real world, I just haven't had the time with all the other things on my to-do list. (Remember, this is an unofficial FAQ. I freelance paint for Reaper, but I'm not a Reaper employee. Reaper did not solicit me to write these documents, and did not compensate me for doing so. They did provide free Bones and paint for me to test with, but the other products tested I either already owned or paid to purchase. I don't own a lot of sealers, so I would have to spend money in addition to time to test sealers.)

 

I will try to update with a note that the potential for aerosol products to react poorly with Bones includes sealers as well as primers. Dullcote seems to be fine, and Reaper brush-on sealer is fine, but apart from that I don't think there's much of a consensus on other products yet, sorry.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I use Reaper Brush On Sealer and I've never had a single problem with it.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Crowley
      There are some minis that are absolutely brilliant in Bones. This is not one of them. But it's a mini that works for a fellow players for our Curse of Strahd campaign, so...
       
      First problem, the staff was really bent out of shape. Impressive since it's connected to both his hand and the cloak. A quick boil and then ice bath to care of that. 
       
      Then there were three mold lines. Unfortunately extensive on the outstretched arm and on the smooth cloak. 

      Once those were taken care of, I glued him to a base, splashed on the brown liner and then began to block in colors.

      Afterburn Grey, peacock green, tanned shadow, and dessert stone were the primary colors I used to start with.

       
      That was last week, and it was enough to get the okay from my player. So tonight, I worked on him some more. Added Rosy flesh, nut brown, some black lining, and Marigold for the hair.
      I think I'm going to wash the hair with something a little more orange red, then bring up the color more with the blond triad. Not sure what to do with the leather bandoleer, but I'm thinking maybe a red leather?

    • By nakos
      In the Reaper Live videos, it's been mentioned that most rattle primers are ok to use. But no one that I've seen has mentioned their results of spray priming their bones black, so I thought that I would post my results here. I hope that others will post theirs as well. 
       
      Cleaning and prepping mold lines on bones black is very different than regular bones. I would compare it to other gaming companies hard plastic while still having a little bit more flexibility. 
       
      So far I've used the following primers, I'll add to this list as I use new ones:
      Krylon Colormaster White primer- quick drying time with light spraying, no stickiness, no granular texture associated with light dusting. The white stayed relatively white unlike on other plastic models. 
       
      Rustoleum 2X Paint+Primer Satin Poppy Red- Smooth coverage, no texturing. However, after 24hrs is still slightly tacky to the touch. In places where I've scrapped mold lines away the plastic underneath is not tacky. I'll give it a few more days to cure and then I'll try stripping it and see how that goes. The tackiness maybe due to the satin primer rather than the more commonly used flat primer. ETU: 60 hrs and no change in the tackiness so I used isopropyl to strip it with no issues.
    • By dks
      Sorry for being away from the Forum for so long.
       
      So ... how does one pronounce "peryton"? 
      I've usually said it like "keratin" (stress on the first syllable), but I suppose it could rhyme with "enlighten" (stress on the second syllable) instead.
      I realized only weeks ago that I had been mispronouncing "wyvern" all my life, and the first syllable is long like "five", not short like "shiv".
       
      Anyway...
      I taught a class called "Fur, Feathers, and Scales" class at ReaperCon 2018.
      I used the Bones peryton as a demonstration, because of the big feathered wings.
      The first-edition Monster Manual gives the coloration of a peryton as blue-black head, black horns, green wings, and blue chest (male) or drab chest (female).
      I showed my students pictures of real hawks and falcons, most of which have dark tips on their wing feathers, and sometimes a series of dark stripes. 
      Then I painted one of the peryton's wings to have stripes like that (black on green).
       
      Now I've decided to paint the whole figure, to at least a good tabletop standard.
      I attached it to a 50mm round base, sculpted some extra rocks, and sculpted the skeleton of a past victim (a Reaper pewter skull, plus bones made from putty).
      Perytons bite the hearts out of their prey, so I made the skeleton's ribcage open/broken in front.
       
      Here's how my version looked after I spent 2 hours slapping on Black Brush-on Primer and White Brush-on Primer, to establish the overall values.
      The primer didn't fully cover the striped green wing from my ReaperCon class.
       

       
      Enjoy,
      Derek
       
    • By SamuraiJack
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cephalopodstudios/cuttlefish-colors-a-hobby-paint-line/description
       
      About
      Cuttlefish Colors is a hobby acrylic paint line that we here at the studio have developed.  These paints work and blend very well with other major brands of hobby paint on the market right now, but at a much cheaper price tag.
      Why use Cuttlefish colors
      Beastclaw Raider painted using Cuttlefish Colors For years we used just about every other major brand of hobby paint out there, always looking for that perfect color, the smoothest paint and the most cost effective. 
       Lets face it, if you’re into tabletop war-gaming you know how expensive this hobby can be.  We were so tired of spending 5-6 dollars a bottle on paint, only to have them dry out with their flip top lids, the dropper styles were great but so difficult for us to get locally, and the consistency of the color varied greatly. 
      Deathguard Marine painted using Cuttlefish Colors So, ten years ago we began doing research on the properties of hobby paint, how it’s made and where we can get the materials to do this.  After hundreds of failed attempts to “make” our own paint and thousands of dollars spent on failed formula’s we finally found the one that worked the best.
      This formula gives you a smooth thin coat with good coverage and blends fantastically with other colors in the line, AS WELL AS other hobby paints on the market.  we began to experiment with different pigments and for the past 2 years have been painting miniatures with the paints we would mix up and bottle for ourselves.  
      It was about 6 months ago that our friends and local game group started asking about what colors we used and we told them, Well, We make our own.  Ever since that day people have been asking us "Can we buy some of your paint?"   After thinking about it and seeing if it was possible...well...here we are!  
      We are very excited to bring our line of hobby paints to everyone, and can't begin to thank you enough for checking us out and hopefully, just hopefully pledging!  
        Thanks from the bottom of our hearts,
      Cephalopod Studios
    • By Bit_Green
      Hello, this is my first post on the reaper forums.
      I wanted to share my most recently painted miniature, the Ogre Guard sculpted by Bobby Jackson.
      The base is made out of a 74036: 2" Round Base, some apoxie sculpt for the rocks, green flocking and some army painter grass tufts.
       
      I picked this figure because while he is intimidating, he hasn't started attacking yet.
      This monster fits the look of both wild beast or gentle giant.

  • Who's Online   38 Members, 0 Anonymous, 152 Guests (See full list)

×