Wren

Bones: Frequently Asked Questions - Unofficial!

67 posts in this topic

I can verify that Liquitex gloss stays tacky, but Liquitex matte does not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can verify that Liquitex gloss stays tacky, but Liquitex matte does not.

I have always found Liquitex Gloss Medium a little unacceptably sticky, even on paintings.

 

Golden has many different gloss mediums, some of which also dry sticky, but I have found Golden's Self-Leveling Clear Gel Medium to dry pretty well on Bones.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all!

I just got DDS2 the other day, and it will be my first experience with bones, so I am a bit nervous... I have been reading all the tips and tricks everyone has posted with great interest and thanks!

 

Now I use P3 Primer on everything I paint, and as I didn't see it listed, I did my own test.

I sprayed the Bottom of a base to see what, if any results I would get.

 

Now it seems to me that it dried well, certainly no longer than any other mini I have used it on. It is not tacky at all.

No sign that it ate into the plastic at all, no strange fumes, etc.

I dragged my thumb across the dry base, and after 30 seconds or so, the "Reaper Miniatures" text showed up quite clearly.

The base isn't flexible so I can't comment about durability...

 

After I start on the terrain parts of the kit, I will post my results in WIP.

 

George

 

Edit! (14 August 2015)

The bottom of that base got tacky! :zombie:

 

I picked up the mini to show my wife, as she was looking at the DDS 2 terrain, and getting an explanation about why the bottom was painted, she said, UM-this is tacky. I checked and she was correct! It has been very humid here lately, but it was in a room that gets some AC, so I would do your own test before using P3 Black Primer!

 

George

Edited by knarthex
4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thought I had a new primer for Bones but alas it failed the test. Adherto by Black Gold (House of Kolor). It's a clear primer made for Lexan R/C bodies. Since the paint for those needs to be flexible to stay on the bodies, thought it'd be perfect!. Alas it fails the stickiness test.

 

(see below)

 

EDIT:

 

Re-checked the mini this afternoon & it doesn't have the stickiness like it did the day I sprayed it. I'll throw a couple coats of paints on it & see later today & report back. Also I sprayed anther Bones mini this morning with Rustoleum Plastic primer white. So far so good. I'll give a report on that one as well.

 

Ok I've had some time with the minis I primed with Adherto & Rustoleum Plastic Primer white. First off when I primed the Bone with Adherto is was really sticky, even to a point I was taking finger & thumb & was tacky touching the blade of the mini just to see if this stickiness would go away. Well this morning that stickiness had gone totally away!

 

As far as the Rustoleum goes, there was a little tackiness but nothing I was concerned about. Granted I'm use to primer going on plastic & then almost instantly drying. I paint car models with either Tamiya primers or Dupicolor brand. I still left that one on my table as I primed & basecoated some model parts today. It was outside most of the day.

 

Paints:

I decided to test paint the mini today. What I used were the following brands with 1 drop of water each.

 

Reaper Viper Green

 

Vallejo Model Color Orange

 

Warpaint Dark Tone (more of a wash then a actual paint)

 

Now I decided not to use one of my good brushes for this + April 2015 was the last time I put paint on a mini so of course I didn't paint like I was in competition. What I did focus on were areas I knew the primer had hit like the base (it's a brocoli style base). The head area or in this case, the lack of a head area. Blades as those are large area. Also I decided to touch a couple areas that thought might offer some primered details like hands or intricate details.

 

Rustoleum Plastic Primer (the one on the craft paint bottle)

 

detail shot

 

Base Shot

 

Adherto Clear primer

 

Base (top) Shot

 

Anther Base (orange) Shot

 

 

Again, not as good as Wren excellent examples but something I wanted to do. Plus it's nice to put a brush with paint on a mini. The minis in question gladly sacrificed their heads for anther project so why they missing those.

 

After painting, I will say both Adherto & Rustoleum Plastic Primer White make great spray primers for Bones minis!!

4 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I ask what sort of time frame you had between spraying and no-longer-sticky?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can I ask what sort of time frame you had between spraying and no-longer-sticky?

 

I'd say a day. I was outside yesterday spraying around 930 am as I was killing time till 1030 am. I sprayed the goblin first before diving into putting the model parts on my clip & skewer system I have set up.

 

Today I primed those parts around a little before 10 am. I primed the other goblin first & then it was around 300 to 340 when I painted the colors on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Badger Stynylrez also works out of my airbrush. No thinner.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Lidless Eye
      Another set complete!  This time it's a group of Eastern Fantasy themed adventurers and encounters.  Almost all the minis are from the third Bones Kickstarter, with the exception of the Tengu/Kenku Monk armed with kamas.  She's from Stonehaven.


      The group:


       
       
      The Oni:


       
       


       
       
      The Kitsune.  The male is one of my favorites...I hadn't even noticed the sake glass in his hand  until I started painting!  That and his swagger make for a very characterful sculpt.


       

       
       
      Just some Human Monks:


       



      The Kenku/Tengu:


       

       
      This is the non-Reaper one, a Monk from Stonehaven Miniatures:


       
      Flock!
       
       
    • By TGP
      @Everyone :: Please feel free to share pix of creations from the Conversion Classes in this thread. 
       
      I will **start:
       

      As a beginning exercise Gene Bobby and Jason had everyone pick a body, add one thing, and pass it to the right. That was repeated three times. These were the result. 
       
      **Be warned I have moar pix...
    • By Guildenstern
      Idk if this is a KS model or one I randomly bought to fill out our need for giant monsters that are not cardboard cutouts. Anyway, he's done. He was going to maybe go in a desert diorama but I decided against (he didn't end up fitting). I might go back over his claw bits again tho, they seem a lot darker in the pic than they do IRL but theyr'e still just not quite right. Anyway, he's based on a couple of RL pics, mostly going for a shiny red carapace kind of idea. He's not in my WIP thread, so just a quick note, I undercoated him mournfang brown (a red brown GW colour) and then built up to the red with reaper's bloodstain red and later clotted red (my absolutely fave triad *ever*)
       

    • By Lidless Eye
      Another batch of deadly forest encounters, the kind you'd find protecting Castle Stoneskull!

      All miniatures are from the Castle Stoneskull set from Bones III.


       
      Vegepygmies:


       

       
       
       
      Plant Dragon:


       

      Death Lilies or something like that!


       

    • By rollcast
      I'm just really proud of this, my first work with an airbrush ever. Maybe it's not the best skill & craft work out there for finishing a figure, but I think I win some points for originality.
       
      What I learned...
      Sometimes, inspiration comes when you think your finished (my son said "I thought you were going for a nebula") Sometimes, your wife says "It needs something iridescent" when you think you're done and she's right. Sparkling Amethyst on the spines Airbrushing means mixing and getting your consistency exactly right - I got lucky on my first try Airbrushing base colors is insanely fast, uses almost no paint and produces something much more even than I could dry-brushing Dry brushing is great for aging/leathering a piece - airbrushing is all about consistency of coverage. Trying to add red-shifted & blue-shifted stars to the star field looked like birthday cake sprinkles. Nature always has better color schemes than I can come up with on my own. I still need to figure out how to layer/thin/build up my colors.  
       
      After initial airbrushing with Violet Shadow and Clear Magenta and maybe a mix with aged bonne for the belly.

       
       
      First pass at layering for the spikes. I've got some learning to do.

       
      Another angle at the "ready for detailing" stage.

       
      My son said "nebula" and I broke out the clear blue and thinned it, but probably not enough.

       
      Here's the "finished" product. I detailed so many stars in the blue areas. Then my wife said "iridescent" and I added Sparkling Amethyst to the spines. It's a great touch and highlights the raised part of the body instead of leaving it the same as the rest.

       
      For scale against another recent work, my lizardman army.

  • Who's Online   44 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)