Wren

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)

92 posts in this topic

At Hobby Lobby, sanding sticks are with the models (cars, planes etc)

 

Also some have found some flashing is really difficult to see until you get a basecoat/primer on the mini. (Looking at you Great Worm)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here in the UK, Hobby Craft has a reasonable selection of tools in the model section. Today I bought a Draper hobby knife and a set of 5 diamond coated needle files. In the art section they have both cheap and medium priced brushes (but not W&N series 7) also a range of palettes and cutting mats although I bought my cutting mat a Ryman as it was cheaper. Also from Ryman I got Super Glue and Blu Tack.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW, I've used Craftics #33 "Clear-Thickened Acrylic Cement" to glue Legendary Encounters (and other plastic figures) to acrylic and wooden bases. I can't separate the figures from the bases by just using my hands.

 

This may seem weird and exotic, but this is the glue recommended by Litko for assembly of their acrylic counters. Some folks here might have some on-hand.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far I have found sanding needles for plastic as the most effective tool for removing mould lines on Bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any word on how spray-on sealers affect the plastic? Clear-coat, matte coat, and the like?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Army Painter's Anti-Shine spray on as a sealer and have had no problems with using it on Bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

This is a really good idea that I hadn't thought of. I actually just finished a jelly jar yesterday whose lid might be perfect for one of the giants.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One word of warning regarding what you use to hold onto Bones when dipping in boiling water: don't squeeze to hard, or you will leave a lasting impression. I use a set of surgical forcepts and on one of the kobolds I left the imprint of the clamp on the base.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just use a $2 sieve from the kitchen store. One with hooks on the end so you can suspend it over the pot without it touching the base.

 

This achieves three things:

  • Removing the Bones from the water is a snap - you just lift the sieve out of the water
  • You can easily heat and reform miniatures in batches. I did about 5-6 at a time with this method.
  • You also keep the Bones off the base of the pot which eliminates any possiblity of them being in contact with hot metal & potentially melting
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for these threads!

My "practice bones" arrived today, and I figured I'd start with Gary the Gargoyle, or whatever the heck his name is. I grabbed two of those big wide coffee mugs (the ones that will hold a can of soup) filled 'em both with water, and stuck one in the microwave. While that was running, I threw a couple of ice cubes in the other one, then lined up my other minis so they could see what would happen to them if they didn't "play ball". A lot of people are saying the mins are popping back to original just from the hot water. I didn't experience that. but once I dipped it in the ice water...boom! It was like a freaking magic trick! I had to resist the urge to do it a couple of more times, jut to watch it happen!

Gary is looking super fierce now with his spread wings, and ready for some paint!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Addendum on methods for removing mould lines:

 

I had read Loim's post on sanding sticks while doing the research for these articles, but figured emory boards and the other sandpaper products I had were close enough for testing. He was kind enough to give some to me and a few other of the artists to try out during ReaperCon. They work really well on Bones. We raided the Denton local Hobby Town and cleared them out. I think I've seen the same product on sale at Hobby Town, but will need to check again. Both the blue (medium) and white (fine) work very well.

 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/medium-plastic-sanding-needles-852467/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Tricksay
      Been away from it all, for a bit. Finished this one up, a little too fast -to enter it in a competition (Attack-x).
      Got a bronze, and a ton of advice on where I could have improved and upped it to silver......very exciting for my first in person competition. 
      Thanks for looking, c&c is much appreciated. And I'm guessing on the catalogue number, hasn't been released yet from Bones 3.
       




    • By MonsterSlayer
      I have been away from painting and these boards for a while.
       
      I recently got back into painting and started with some of the bones 3 ogres. I made a rookie mistake with bad lighting and decided they had to go in the Simple Green bath.
       
      The ones that I based coated with brown cleaned fairly well.The armored ogres had Vallejo Coal Black and the stuff will not come off after 36 hours.That is not even a primer, just black model paint.
       
      So has anyone had this problem? Do I need to step up the cleaning solution to acetone free nail polish remover? Brake fluid? Has anyone tried nail polish remover or brake fluid on the Bones? how does the plastic react?
    • By bojesphob
      I didn't have time to take better photos of this, too much going on recently to break out the DSLR, so I just used my phone camera. Not entirely enthused about the pics, but the mini itself was a BLAST to paint - probably my favorite non-dragon/large monster I've painted up so far! Once I got the color scheme thought through, I actually painted it up rather quickly. Tried a few new techniques on the stones on the base to make them seem a little more polished, which in person really stands out well :) Critiques?
       


    • By jonaas33
      Painted this guy last weekend.  Highlighting is still a problem for me, but I still like the way he turned out.  I plan on touching up a lot of the paint next weekend, and eventually going over the parchment again to update the writing, but for now it will do.  Any tips on doing small runes or letters would be appreciated.  Thanks as always!




    • By KruleBear
      Hajad is another sacrife to the toy box level painting (ie. ignore moldlines and any advanced techniques) in my quest to find the "right" zombie skin tone. This time based with 50/50 MSP Vampiric skin and VMC Basic Skin Tone. Covered with a wash of Army Painters blacker colored Dark Tone Ink. This is getting closer to what I want and might be right on with a wash using a brown ink like Strong Tone. I am going to find another sacrificial mini to try a 50/50 mix of the vampiric skin with VMV Dark Fleshwith a brown wash. I think that will give me the grey undead color I want ith enough caucasian skin to look like a fresher conversion to the zombie lifestyle. 
       

       
      I like this model, so will need to look at getting him in metal at some time. For now this one will be used as a ghost pirate in a Hero Kids adventure with my four year old.
       
      Thoughts and comments greatly appreciated. 
       
       
  • Who's Online   24 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)