Jump to content
Wren

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)

Recommended Posts

At Hobby Lobby, sanding sticks are with the models (cars, planes etc)

 

Also some have found some flashing is really difficult to see until you get a basecoat/primer on the mini. (Looking at you Great Worm)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here in the UK, Hobby Craft has a reasonable selection of tools in the model section. Today I bought a Draper hobby knife and a set of 5 diamond coated needle files. In the art section they have both cheap and medium priced brushes (but not W&N series 7) also a range of palettes and cutting mats although I bought my cutting mat a Ryman as it was cheaper. Also from Ryman I got Super Glue and Blu Tack.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW, I've used Craftics #33 "Clear-Thickened Acrylic Cement" to glue Legendary Encounters (and other plastic figures) to acrylic and wooden bases. I can't separate the figures from the bases by just using my hands.

 

This may seem weird and exotic, but this is the glue recommended by Litko for assembly of their acrylic counters. Some folks here might have some on-hand.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any word on how spray-on sealers affect the plastic? Clear-coat, matte coat, and the like?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

This is a really good idea that I hadn't thought of. I actually just finished a jelly jar yesterday whose lid might be perfect for one of the giants.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One word of warning regarding what you use to hold onto Bones when dipping in boiling water: don't squeeze to hard, or you will leave a lasting impression. I use a set of surgical forcepts and on one of the kobolds I left the imprint of the clamp on the base.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just use a $2 sieve from the kitchen store. One with hooks on the end so you can suspend it over the pot without it touching the base.

 

This achieves three things:

  • Removing the Bones from the water is a snap - you just lift the sieve out of the water
  • You can easily heat and reform miniatures in batches. I did about 5-6 at a time with this method.
  • You also keep the Bones off the base of the pot which eliminates any possiblity of them being in contact with hot metal & potentially melting
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for these threads!

My "practice bones" arrived today, and I figured I'd start with Gary the Gargoyle, or whatever the heck his name is. I grabbed two of those big wide coffee mugs (the ones that will hold a can of soup) filled 'em both with water, and stuck one in the microwave. While that was running, I threw a couple of ice cubes in the other one, then lined up my other minis so they could see what would happen to them if they didn't "play ball". A lot of people are saying the mins are popping back to original just from the hot water. I didn't experience that. but once I dipped it in the ice water...boom! It was like a freaking magic trick! I had to resist the urge to do it a couple of more times, jut to watch it happen!

Gary is looking super fierce now with his spread wings, and ready for some paint!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Addendum on methods for removing mould lines:

 

I had read Loim's post on sanding sticks while doing the research for these articles, but figured emory boards and the other sandpaper products I had were close enough for testing. He was kind enough to give some to me and a few other of the artists to try out during ReaperCon. They work really well on Bones. We raided the Denton local Hobby Town and cleared them out. I think I've seen the same product on sale at Hobby Town, but will need to check again. Both the blue (medium) and white (fine) work very well.

 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/medium-plastic-sanding-needles-852467/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Crowley
      Lately I've been thinking I want to wrap up the Bones 1 core set. This assassin, which looked more ranger-ish to me, was near the top of the pile, and ready to go, so out she came. I glued her to a base, and then onto one of my cork holders. She was already brown lined, so I started with Muddy Olive for the cloak, and Warrior Flesh for the face. Worked a bit on the eyes with Viper Green, and then decided that the scarf was going to be in the color of autumnal leaves, so she'd be a little more interesting than just muted browns and greens. 

       
      And this was where I left off after the first evening.
    • By Geoff Davis
      Well, at least he didn't end up on my shelf of shame.  Some days my eyes and hands just aren't up to the job.  I also learned today that blending metallics is really hard.  Much more practice is needed.  I am pleased with the way the lighting effect worked out, though. 
       

       

       

       

    • By ChristopherGeorge
      Hi Guys,
       
      Just a quick update from my Do-To List.  Pretty straight foward, light base coat, heavy wash, dry brush highlights.  Let me know what you think :)


       
       
    • By Pochi
      Here is the Sphinx from Bones 3. She was fun to paint with lots of little details. She has the prettiest face and since she is a little larger, there was lots of room to practice facial features.
       
      Hope my players are good at riddles!
       
      The color on the photos is a little "off" and everything appears a bit more yellow than it actually is. My batteries were dying in my camera so I was trying to hurry and didn't realize the color was slightly off.
       
      C&C welcome! Thanks for looking!
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By scalehunter
      Hi, I have decided to attempt to improve my painting ability by painting my way through h the reaper 3 core set. I will attempt to update weekly and am welcome to tips and critiques as the goal is to improve what I can do as I go.  
      this first batch includes 2 variations of lizard folk 77426 77154, a yeti 77436, a Giant Cobra 77321, and an elite Hobgoblin 77477. My first specific request for help is the use of unusual colors. I feel that I too often use mainly greys and browns, the lizard folk are a good example of one being a little more bland but realistic but the other allows for using colors I wouldn't be able to justify otherwise. I really struggle picking out colors for capes and armors as these end up looking either out of place or way to bland and boring. do you have any ways of choosing when to reach out with bright colors and when to be more reserved? I hope to use responses here to mold future paint jobs for next week. Thanks Guys CC welcome





  • Who's Online   13 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×