Wren

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)

92 posts in this topic

At Hobby Lobby, sanding sticks are with the models (cars, planes etc)

 

Also some have found some flashing is really difficult to see until you get a basecoat/primer on the mini. (Looking at you Great Worm)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here in the UK, Hobby Craft has a reasonable selection of tools in the model section. Today I bought a Draper hobby knife and a set of 5 diamond coated needle files. In the art section they have both cheap and medium priced brushes (but not W&N series 7) also a range of palettes and cutting mats although I bought my cutting mat a Ryman as it was cheaper. Also from Ryman I got Super Glue and Blu Tack.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

FWIW, I've used Craftics #33 "Clear-Thickened Acrylic Cement" to glue Legendary Encounters (and other plastic figures) to acrylic and wooden bases. I can't separate the figures from the bases by just using my hands.

 

This may seem weird and exotic, but this is the glue recommended by Litko for assembly of their acrylic counters. Some folks here might have some on-hand.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So far I have found sanding needles for plastic as the most effective tool for removing mould lines on Bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any word on how spray-on sealers affect the plastic? Clear-coat, matte coat, and the like?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Army Painter's Anti-Shine spray on as a sealer and have had no problems with using it on Bones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thank you for the advice on the boil and bend method of fixing bent Bones minis. I just used this on the 18 little minis and the base of the male giant from my vampire kickstarter that were bent out of shape, and they're all much better now. One or two didn't come out perfectly straight, but they're really close. If I decide to be a perfectionist before painting them, I can worry about them then, but I've got 250 minis to paint, so I may never get to them.

 

The key seems to be that they soften up and go back to their original mold shape within 3-5 seconds of hitting the hot water. I wasn't even using a real rolling boil, just hot enough for tiny bubbles to start showing up. Then I pulled them out, bent them a tiny bit more if necessary, and dunked them in ice water (with ice, so not just slightly cool, but REALLY cold) for 15-20 seconds, so they'd harden in the proper shape.

 

I was a little worried about that base on the big male giant, and it didn't come out perfectly, but after pressing him down on a paper towel while the base was hot, it kinda flattened enough. After icing it off so it hardened that way, he was able to stand up unassisted, which is a definite improvement. That base is still too narrow for that size body, so he still tips easily, but at least now, the base is flat enough to glue on to an appropriate sized disk of some sort - if I can find one.

I was thinking of using metal jar lids for bases for some of the bigger models. Applesauce, pickles, baby food and other groceries can be readily found in my area in glass jars with screw-on metal lids.

This is a really good idea that I hadn't thought of. I actually just finished a jelly jar yesterday whose lid might be perfect for one of the giants.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One word of warning regarding what you use to hold onto Bones when dipping in boiling water: don't squeeze to hard, or you will leave a lasting impression. I use a set of surgical forcepts and on one of the kobolds I left the imprint of the clamp on the base.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just use a $2 sieve from the kitchen store. One with hooks on the end so you can suspend it over the pot without it touching the base.

 

This achieves three things:

  • Removing the Bones from the water is a snap - you just lift the sieve out of the water
  • You can easily heat and reform miniatures in batches. I did about 5-6 at a time with this method.
  • You also keep the Bones off the base of the pot which eliminates any possiblity of them being in contact with hot metal & potentially melting
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for these threads!

My "practice bones" arrived today, and I figured I'd start with Gary the Gargoyle, or whatever the heck his name is. I grabbed two of those big wide coffee mugs (the ones that will hold a can of soup) filled 'em both with water, and stuck one in the microwave. While that was running, I threw a couple of ice cubes in the other one, then lined up my other minis so they could see what would happen to them if they didn't "play ball". A lot of people are saying the mins are popping back to original just from the hot water. I didn't experience that. but once I dipped it in the ice water...boom! It was like a freaking magic trick! I had to resist the urge to do it a couple of more times, jut to watch it happen!

Gary is looking super fierce now with his spread wings, and ready for some paint!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Addendum on methods for removing mould lines:

 

I had read Loim's post on sanding sticks while doing the research for these articles, but figured emory boards and the other sandpaper products I had were close enough for testing. He was kind enough to give some to me and a few other of the artists to try out during ReaperCon. They work really well on Bones. We raided the Denton local Hobby Town and cleared them out. I think I've seen the same product on sale at Hobby Town, but will need to check again. Both the blue (medium) and white (fine) work very well.

 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/medium-plastic-sanding-needles-852467/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Lidless Eye
      Just a bunch of Eastern myth themed minis, mostly from Bones III and one Kenku/Tengu Monk from Stonehaven.

      Oh, and some Myconids from Ganesha Games and Bones III plant monsters.  More Mario than myth, I suppose.
       

       
      Oni close-up:
       


      Kitsune close-up:



      I like the male Kitsuine a lot more than I was expecting.  His pose, with all its swagger, adds a lot of character.  I also hadn't noticed the sake cup he was holding until I started painting.
    • By jonaas33
      Whipped this guy up while taking a break from a few bigger projects.  There are a LOT of touchups that I need to make, but for a palette cleanser, I think he turned out pretty cool.  I think I need to find a place in my house with better lighting, because I notice a lot of detail errors when I get the close-up picture taken that I never saw when painting.  Does anyone use magnifying glass or something else to help with smaller parts of a fig?  I have excellent vision, but the difference between just looking at a fig on a tabletop and getting picture taken is pretty stark.  Now I need to come up with a Big Bad Evil Guy so I can use this guy during an adventure.  I appreciate any advice and critiques!  Thanks!


    • By Ash Adler
      Intellect devourers were always one of my favorite D&D monsters, so I'd been planning on painting this mini eventually, but I never got around to buying it since it was kind of plain compared to most other minis.  As fortune had it, though, I got it as a bonus with my last order from Reaper, so I decided to just do it.  Color scheme was based on a mixture of the AD&D 2nd Edition Monstrous Manual intellect devourer, the more "realistic" 3rd edition version, and a smattering of actual crabs.
       

       
      As usual, the process of working on it is on my blog: link
       
      Unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to handle holding a mini without a base that I could stick on top of a shot glass.  I held it by unpainted parts for as long as I could, but in the end, I held it by the brain to finish off the talons.  Sadly, that led to some of the paint getting rubbed off (probably could've avoided at least some of that if I hadn't been squeezing it so hard, but it's easy to forget my strength at times).  Aside from that, though, I'm rather pleased with how it turned out .  It was a simple mini, but I enjoyed it.  C&C welcome (especially any tips for how to avoid damaging finished paint on baseless minis, short of varnishing a completed area to hold it by for the final parts).
    • By Ash Adler
      I'm glad I got talked into checking out these kits.  Having someone walk me through what exactly to do really helped me to focus on what was happening with the mini without getting distracted by thinking about the next color choice or whatever.
       

      Honestly, the skeleton was probably my favorite of the 3 minis.  Sure, it doesn't have as much going on with it as the other two, but the simplicity makes it good for learning, it's the one that seems best suited to "drybrush EVERYTHING" approach to highlighting, and besides, the dopey look of it is rather cute
       

      This one, on the other hand, was kind of a nightmare.  It's not so much that there was anything particularly difficult about the model itself (it's actually posed to make things pretty easy to access all around), but it was just horrible trying to drybrush it with any real sort of cleanliness (not talking so much about how I clearly overdid it in some areas as stuff like the random brown smudges on his skin, metal sparkles on his leather parts, etc.).  Well, that, and I had a hell of a time getting the brush to survive banging into the spikey bits no matter how careful/gentle I tried to be with it when doing the leather bits.
       
      Getting more eye practice is never a bad thing, at least.  I even managed to keep the black outline all around the whites this time!
       

      This one annoyed me to start out because I just couldn't get the sword to set straight no matter how much I overbent it in the other direction while doing the whole hot/cold water thing.  Once I decided to just give up and go with it, though, it was pretty smooth.  Probably the best looking of the three in the end.
       
      All in all, it was a very valuable learning experience.  Hoping that the learning keep going on through the next kit as well!
    • By Logos
      I think this one is from Bones 3. Maybe it's supposed to be a panther or something but it screamed lioness to me when I saw it.  Might do another in black so I have a panther later on.  I tried to keep it simple and I think it turned out the better for it.  





  • Who's Online   53 Members, 3 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)