Wren

Bones: Preparation (Glues, Putties, Mould Lines, Etc.)

92 posts in this topic

@Jordan Peacock - The Kickstarter figures had not come out when I did my testing, and I haven't since had a chance to play with any of the dragons. Hopefully some dragon fans will have some insights for us soon.

 

@Canuck - That clue is specifically formulated for polystyrene plastic. It works by literally dissolving the plastic so when you touch two pieces of polystyrene together, as the glue evaporates, the plastic reforms bonding the pieces together. (That's probably not a precise technical explanation, but does summarize the end effect.) I believe it has pretty much no effect on plastic that is not polystyrene, so I didn't even test it, since the Bones is a different material. You could test it on some bases just to make sure, but I'm pretty sure it won't work. Many boxed model sets and the plain and textured plasticard sheets and tubes and such that you can get at the hobby shop are made of polystyrene. The white sheets I used in the basing test are polystyrene.

 

@werehawk - Interesting tip on the chilling, I might have to try that!

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I have a question about boiling that I hope someone can help me with. Last night I received some bones and threw a few into hot water from the tap. It noticeably affected them but the gargoyle specifically quickly returned to its bent position after I removed it from the water. I applied pressure during the cooling process and it worked a bit better, but it wasn't until I left a pocket knife crushing the mini in position that it finally took the right shape.

 

My question is how other people's experience has been? Does the water need to be boiling? How long does it take for the new position to set? Should the bone (singular) just go flexible or completely limp? Any info would be helpful, thank you in advance!

 

Edit: after getting home I discovered that both gargoyles are now bent back into the same position. I am wondering if that is their home position, but it seems an odd angle. If anyone else with them could please tell me the angle of the wings to each other, that would be great as mine are almost a U shape.

Edited by Arnifix

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Definitely boiling works best in my experience. The mini gets quite floppy, so much so that I was worried it would melt. Mine set quite fast, though that really depends on thicknesses. You shouldn't need a weight on it, though I did press a dragon down on a table until it was in the position I liked.

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Boiling water, over-bend to have a better chance of removing the set position, hold in new position, then dunk in ice water for a couple of minutes.

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My question is how other people's experience has been? Does the water need to be boiling? How long does it take for the new position to set? Should the bone (singular) just go flexible or completely limp? Any info would be helpful, thank you in advance!

 

I fixed about 30 Bones last night in under 20 minutes with boiling water. For the smaller minis I held the bent areas, usually the feet/connection to the base, in the boiling water carefully for about 10-15 seconds. This was sufficient to loosen the plastic up. In many cases the mini quickly (about 5 seconds) reverted to the position it was molded in after dunking it in the water. If you watch a mini when dunked you'll see it relax and once that happens I pulled it out and iced it.

 

I had a harder time fixing a Kaladrax wing because it was thicker, but I extended the time I held it in the boiling water and it looks great now.

 

I always held them in the end position I wanted and dunked them in ice water for a few seconds, until they stiffened up and felt cold.

 

I'm new to minis but old to RPGs, so I'm a newb at this type of thing and it was easy.

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I'm curious - can I put dish soap into the boiling water and take care of washing off the release agents all at once?

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Uh...I'm pretty sure it would end up going foamy all over. I think a scrubbing would get more off anyways, personally.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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I'm curious - can I put dish soap into the boiling water and take care of washing off the release agents all at once?

I was wondering about just putting them in the dishwasher, for the same reasons. No heat-drying, obviously, just a bunch of hot detergent water to get them de-gunked and maybe un-bent.

 

- H8

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If your use rinse agent in your dishwasher, I don't know whether that would end up depositing anything on the figures? I also do not know if anyone has tested such prolonged exposure to heat on Bones. You'd still have to immerse them in ice water for best results with the heat position resetting technique, and if you just had them in a pile in a delicates laundry bag or something like that, I imagine some of them would end up with deformed positioning from being crowded together. I guess the best way to find out is to try it. I don't feel comfortable putting non-food utensil items in my dishwasher, so that one I'm not volunteering for, sorry. :->

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So...I mentioned this in my Wyrmgear WiP, but it's a crazy enough thing I figured I'd mention it here, too.

 

I used a jeweler's saw to remove some broccoli from a Bones mini. Works really nicely, except, if you go to fast, the friction is high enough to melt the plastic slightly. Melt it enough that it adheres to itself.

 

So I started the saw on one end of the broccoli, sawed clean through and out the other side, so there was now a thick line where the cut was, but the broccoli was still quite solidly in place. It was like some kind of magic trick.

 

The good news is that the plastic within the cut was effectively perforated, so it was very easy to cut it off with an xacto, but it was oddly disconcerting enough that I figured folks doing prep on the larger figs might like to know.

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So what are people favoring for gap filling? I've never had to fill gaps before, and there are tons of gaps in the Bones minis.

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Greenstuff and liquid greenstuff, depending on the size of the gap.

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Apoxie Sculpt, personally, though I haven't had any experience with using anything but that.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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You'd still have to immerse them in ice water for best results with the heat position resetting technique, and if you just had them in a pile in a delicates laundry bag or something like that, I imagine some of them would end up with deformed positioning from being crowded together.

I was thinking of something like the box/basket thing we had for washing baby bottles, but you're right about needing more attention for optimal repositioning.

 

I don't feel comfortable putting non-food utensil items in my dishwasher, so that one I'm not volunteering for, sorry. :->

That's a good point. I guess I had assumed that the mold release was something rather innocuous, but maybe that's not true. In fact, that seems like something where it would be good to get a confirmation statement from Reaper.

 

Although, now I have to ask: what are you using to boil your minis then, if not a kitchen item?

 

- H8

Edited by Hatemonger

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