Wren

Bones: The First Coat is the Difference

177 posts in this topic

Applying liner with an airbrush will also reduce running/beading (if you do it right), since the film is too thin for surface tension issues to be as much of a problem. In particular, remember that you're not trying for opacity in a "primer" layer, just mostly complete coverage. A single light pass over everything is all you need. 

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the new Grey Primer from the CAV KS sticks really well.

 

Update: after some handling, it didn't stick as well as I'd hoped.. not even after other paint was applied over it.

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So with the new MSP Bones paints, can these be used as a base coat airbrushed straight on or will it require thinning?

 

I

 

You will need to thin most or all Reaper paint at least a little for airbrush use. I have airbrushed a couple of Bones, using a mix of Golden airbrush medium and water to thin Reaper paints. The paint applied well, and did not bead up or drip off. I'm not sure if this is because of the difference in application, whether a bunch of tiny drops hitting the surface reacts a bit differently than big brushfuls of paint. Also airbrush medium is similar to the medium element of the paint, so you can also use it to dilute paint for brush on use. I don't know if it's true of all of them, but the Golden product slows dry time, so it does not work well as an alternate primer, and you probably want to mix only so much in unless you're also looking to increase the working time of the paint.

 

I have not tested using alcohol/water mixes as a dilutant for airbrushing over Bones. I know many people use that because it dries quicker so you can work more quickly. I -think- Aaron Lovejoy has done some zenithal priming of Bones using the airbrush and he uses alcohol mix to thin, I will try to remember to ask him to verify for sure.

 

The new Bones paint should not behave substantially differently from currently available MSP HD, so if you have some bottles of that you can test with your own brush and dilutant mix to see how it works for you without having to wait for the release of the new Bones paints.

 

The new Bones paint, nor any other Reaper paint currently available, are not marketed nor intended as airbrush ready out of the bottle. Badger's Minitaire paint is marketed like that. Though from what I can tell from comments from friends who use it, they often end up thinning the paint a little more. So I don't know if any paint will work for all applications straight out of the bottle. I painted one Bones with a few bottles of Minitaire paint that a friend sent me, and it also adhered fine to the surface. I liked the paint for airbrushing, but did not like it as well for doing touch ups and refinements with a brush after the initial airbrush stage. (I had just a few bottles to work with, though, so it's possible that varies with colour.)

 

This is another reply I wrote when the airbrushing experiences were fresher in my mind - http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/52413-airbrushing-bones/?hl=minitaire#entry799301

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I've skimmed the thead but didn't see anything - has anyone tried Gunze Mr. Surfacer spray primer? Or the similar stuff from Tamiya? I'm wanting to batch paint a bunch of my Undead Bones, and so a spray can that works would be perfect (I'm in Australia, so most of the options in the OP aren't available)

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So I was reading somewhere on the forum about going back and testing the priming methods of Bones.

 

I went and got some Rust-olem's 2X Flat Grey Primer.

 

On  unwashed Bones I, the flat grey primer is still tacky after 48 hours. Not quite enough for a full fingerprint tacky but enough that held right in the light it's visible.

 

When I get around to washing some Bones I I'll report back here.

Edited by nakos

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I've skimmed the thead but didn't see anything - has anyone tried Gunze Mr. Surfacer spray primer? Or the similar stuff from Tamiya? I'm wanting to batch paint a bunch of my Undead Bones, and so a spray can that works would be perfect (I'm in Australia, so most of the options in the OP aren't available)

 

Consider yourself lucky. Gunze Sangyo products are no longer exported to North America, so I won't be able to test them. It's irritating to see them in use in my Japanese hobby magazines knowing I'll likely never get to use them.

 

But with spray paint what seems to matter is the base. Most spray paints are oil-based enamels and will not harden on PVC unless they are specially formulated, and I have doubts about using it on soft PVC. Lacquer based and water-borne acrylic paints are a bit more friendly with PVC, but lacquers use a powerful and highly aromatic solvent, and require ventilation and a respirator if they're even legal anymore where you are. I think some of the Japanese primers might be lacquers, and there was a brand called Floquil that made very fine hobby paints but they went out of business a couple decades ago.

 

These fuzzy memories may be flawed, so I'm open to correction of whatever needs correcting.

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Posted (edited)

Nakos I used some spray primer also that felt tacky. My fingers didn't stick in it but it didn't feel right. I used it on a small mini and it felt fine so I used it on my world breaker. And it rubs off some and leave a shiny spot where handled. I'm trying to scrub it off. Any one have any tips?  I'm using mean green, then scrubbing it off, followed by an immediate washing so I can prevent any damage. 

 

I wish bones ones didn't have to have special primers when we want to prime them. Hopefully this guy isn't ruined he cost so much. 

Edited by Jeepnewbie
Grammar

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Well I have successfully remov d the primer. I didn't soak the World Breaker since I'm unaware of the effects of mean green on it. I started with the tail and sprayed a small spot and scrubbed it clean. There was no deforming so I continued to do it section by section. There are a couple small spots in indents I can not get out but the whole thing is much better now. So mean green and a stiff plastic brush did wonders. Not sure how it would handle on smaller miniatures. 

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I have great results using LIQUITEX Black Gesso brushed on then White drybrushed as a Pre-Shade.

 

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On ‎5‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 9:43 AM, WIP said:

I have great results using LIQUITEX Black Gesso brushed on then White drybrushed as a Pre-Shade.

 

I've used Liquitex white gesso brushed on and also have added a few drops of black craft paint to it and brushed it on.  In both cases, works great as a primer for Bones.

 

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Like Fanelia, on page 10, I've had good results with Wilko primer spray. Dries quick and flat and seems resistant to bending and scraping. Cheap too, for those in the UK. Put it on a skeleton today and applied a wash (same recipe as in The Craft) and it's taken fairly well (except on the collar bone and eye socket where the spray missed but I'll touch that up).

 

20170814_145314.jpg

20170814_145327.jpg

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Spray primer update.......

 

Tested on 20033 giant rats.  (Very bendy plastic.)  

Left rats on sprue and scrubbed minis well using old toothbrush, warm soapy water as per suggestions in this thread.

Original test using rustolium 2x black primer stating on can that works with plastic.  Rustolium still tacky after an hour and rubs off farly easily.  

Second test on second sprue using Figure Painter black primer spray.  Dried fast with no tackiness, also sprayed directly over tacky rustolium and worked just as well as original test, drying fast and took the sticky feel away.  Figure Painter also passed the flexing test with no flaking, chipping or rubbing off.

 

 

 

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