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@Everyone :: Please feel free to share your pix of creations from the Bones Conversion Classes in this thread.
I will **start:
As a beginning exercise Gene Bobby and Jason had everyone pick a body, add one thing, and pass it to the right. That was repeated three times. These were the result.
**Be warned I have moar pix...
In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. I use Army Painter Anti Shine Spray for this. (I find all Army Painter sprays (and Vallejo acrylic primers for airbrush) work fine on Bones material, be aware that some brands are to be avoided as they will not cure properly and remain sticky). This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
Kyphrixis (clear variant)
Reaper Bones KS3
125mm x 90mm oval base
By Ash Adler
I had a really good time with this kit, and I feel like I learned a lot from it, too. Win-win!
This is probably my best paint job to date, and it was pretty cool to see those highlights and shades build up layer by layer. Similar to the skeleton in the first kit, this one was quite fun to work on despite being a fairly simple model.
If the wizard was the best paint job, this one was the most fun. Sadly, something about the posture just confounded me when it came to trying to take good pictures of it. Also, those lips
I was a bit sloppy with this one, probably because I wanted to just finish with the kits and get on to doing my own minis again. Nevertheless, it was a neat challenge to try doing so many layers of colors for this one, and if nothing else, that left eye is probably the best eye I've painted (right one's a bit of a mess ).
On the whole, I'm very grateful for all of the people who suggested getting the LTP kits. Definitely a great couple of learning tools. Many thanks!
By Lidless Eye
Another set complete! This time it's a group of Eastern Fantasy themed adventurers and encounters. Almost all the minis are from the third Bones Kickstarter, with the exception of the Tengu/Kenku Monk armed with kamas. She's from Stonehaven.
The Kitsune. The male is one of my favorites...I hadn't even noticed the sake glass in his hand until I started painting! That and his swagger make for a very characterful sculpt.
Just some Human Monks:
This is the non-Reaper one, a Monk from Stonehaven Miniatures:
Idk if this is a KS model or one I randomly bought to fill out our need for giant monsters that are not cardboard cutouts. Anyway, he's done. He was going to maybe go in a desert diorama but I decided against (he didn't end up fitting). I might go back over his claw bits again tho, they seem a lot darker in the pic than they do IRL but theyr'e still just not quite right. Anyway, he's based on a couple of RL pics, mostly going for a shiny red carapace kind of idea. He's not in my WIP thread, so just a quick note, I undercoated him mournfang brown (a red brown GW colour) and then built up to the red with reaper's bloodstain red and later clotted red (my absolutely fave triad *ever*)
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