Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Well, that's unfortunate. Now I want one of these.

 

That aside, this looks like it'll be a blast to put together and paint. Can't wait to see it coming together!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could that be uncured resin or something?

 

Ship is looking cool though, I kinda want something like this one day.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could that be uncured resin or something?

 

Ship is looking cool though, I kinda want something like this one day.

That was what I was wondering. I hope not, because isn't it an allergen or something? Anyhow, I've tried to dig out the softest of it and will probably just cover over the rest with epoxy.

 

Gelaendestuecke has a charming English version of its site, by the way. Here's their English page for my model:

http://www.gelaendestuecke.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?language=en&info=p359_schiffsbausatz-no--2.html&

 

I don't think they have anyone who really understands English doing the translating, certainly not proofreading it. It's comprehensible, but also charmingly off.

 

It's the quality of their models that matters anyway.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice project Pingo!

 

You are certainly right about resin dust. I bought myself an appropriate NIOSH mask when I started working with resin models.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That soft gooey stuff is weird. I've never seen resin like that. I have, however, seen a russian resin garage kit that used lard as mold release. The kit was over a decade old when it came into my hands, and was pretty nasty. But I was so happy to have parts to build a 1/35 panzer I Bison.

 

And not a week after I finally cobbled the thing together, which was the most evil assembly job ever . . . Dragon released their vastly superior 1/35 Bison I kit.

 

<_<

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Could that be uncured resin or something?

 

Probably. If they didn't mix it well enough, or the conditions were bad for curing, or if the resin was old, spots inside could stay gunky. Better to find them all now, because if Pingo uses a spray primer, like from Krylon or another such car primer, it can react with even heretofore unseen gunky resin under the surface, and start to bleed.

 

Bleeding resin is a major pain on a half-primered model.

 

Edited for advice: Hold the pieces up to a strong light, like sunlight and look for dark spots beneath the surface. That will represent the areas of still-liquid resin. Poke 'em and drain 'em if you can, then patch the holes with something that dries like hard plastic, like Magic Sculpt (it works really well as a Bondo for resin models. That should take care of it. Like I said, if spray primer touches the outside of such an area before it is drained, there is a chance it will react and bleed.

Edited by Bruunwald
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Huh. When I made my previous post, I had seen all the pictures but none of the text. I really thought it was just a photo essay.

 

So yeah. Odd.

 

The gunk stuff seems, as has been pointed out, like uncured resin, so I hope you can do something about that before painting.

 

Have you thought about how to do the sails, yet, or is that a step too far as yet? Given this ship's start as a chem experiment, you should consider doping up some paper sails. Fun times ahead!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Huh. When I made my previous post, I had seen all the pictures but none of the text. I really thought it was just a photo essay.

So yeah. Odd.

The gunk stuff seems, as has been pointed out, like uncured resin, so I hope you can do something about that before painting.

Have you thought about how to do the sails, yet, or is that a step too far as yet? Given this ship's start as a chem experiment, you should consider doping up some paper sails. Fun times ahead!

While I was composing the post I accidentally hit submit. I had to do a quick edit, and by then you'd already commented.

 

The center of the white stuff is soft and waxy, and I think I've dug most of that out. The white stuff around it is harder, but it clearly had only a thin film of the hard grey stuff over it.

 

I was thinking of making the sails of fine canvas and painting images on them.

Edited by Pingo
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pingo I just wanted to say thanks for the warning on sanding the resin, I hadn't heard anything about this and wouldn't have thought twice about it.

 

ditto. I have a resin Battletech dropship sitting in my mountain of models awaiting work. Now I know to be very careful when I work on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Corporea quickly likes all of Pingo's posts she can find today. Happy Boat-Building Day!

 

In related news, how brittle is resin for sanding? I'm working on an order of the stick mini (mask on, no fear) and gently sanding, but I'm afraid I might break it if I'm too vigorous.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Boaz
       That right guys and gals their not just for wedding cakes ... I like to fill mine with expanding foam (when I have a few foam projects lined up, the can of foam never works for me later so it's a use it or lose it) chop em up (once dry) and butter the ends with something rough and stout (I used flexall) ... a few examples from a city set I was working on before I moved (still unfinnished) ...
       

       
       cities abound in hard cover so it's mostly for looks, nice looks but looks ... in a jungle or desert set it's a great way to add hard cover and have an overgrown lost temple (jungle) or lost oasis side ruins (desert) ... it's a simple and straight forward technique to add just the right sized cover in just about any table set you got ...
       
       I got a large bag of them fairly cheap at a craft store (Michesls) a great value for the buck.
       
      P.S. the Grey rubble is old model sprew rum through an old hand crank meat grinder ... who knew modeling could be so much fun !
    • By Boaz
       Started building a Kulathi battle force and colony outpost for their Kuden-3 outpost, in the Beehive star cluster, in the crab nebula ... 
       
      Having 3 fingers a hand and 6 limbs the number system fore the Kulathi is based on 6 ... with 2,3 and 4 also prominent, so I based there units on 6 ...
       
      An officer (2 pistols = smg) 3 left hand smg and 2 right hand automatic rifles make a strike team ... no other unit types teams can exceed the number of strike teams.
       
       The fire team has 1 officer 1 smg and 4 auto rifles ... a longer ranged bite.
       
      I'm also adding a few hound of Tindalos units (4 with 1 smg and 1 officer kulathi) with bigger things in the works ...
       


       
    • By Pingo
      This is Hasslefree's HFA180, Monique, part of a group of modern adventurers I've been working on.
       
      There is no WIP thread.
       
       
       
       
       

    • By Pingo
      This is Reaper's 60164: Vampire Hunter, as she is rather innocuously called. She is remarkably armed and armored. I think she is from Pathfinder, and I am sure there is some story there.
       
      There is no WIP thread.
       
      Comments and critiques are, as always, welcomed.

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Pingo
      There's a French wargame called "Alkemy" which has a faction of pseudo-Egyptian cat-people called the Khaliman Republic (or République Khalimane in the original).  A few years back I snagged a starter set of 5 resin figures I found on clearance because, well, cat people.
       
      Currently I am involved in an elaborate and fascinating campaign combining White Wolf's World of Darkness (the one in Vampire the Masquerade second edition and Werewolf the Apocalypse) with its "Exalted" game, second edition (which was originally sold as the prehistory of the World of Darkness, although they backed away from that pretty fast).
       
      This character is a PC for that game.  The person is a lycanthrope, or rather a feline therianthrope.  He has a human form, but I painted up the cat man because it's more fun.
       
      This is the first small-scale non-terrain resin I've ever assembled or painted.  It was a little fiddly and I was worried about its fragility.  There are a few places with what is probably flash that I didn't have the courage to try to slice off.
       
      Comments welcome.
       
      WIP thread here.
       

       

       

       

       

       
  • Who's Online   12 Members, 1 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)

×