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Draxism

Draxism's Lots of Bones

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Here are what we have been working on lately:

 

Tiviel, Hellborn Rogue (done by my girlfriend)

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Barnabus Frost, Pirate Captain (done by my girlfriend)

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"George" Zombies

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Mummy (I was quite happy with the wash I used)

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Owlbear (color scheme based on a Spotted Owl)

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Any feedback is appreciated.

I especially would like feedback on the Owlbear if anyone is willing :)

 

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OK. The owlbear is tight. I like the all-black eyes. Kind of creepy and inhuman. The blending on the face feathers looks quite good. I'd only add another coat or two to the base, as it looks a little unfinished compared to the rest of him.

 

I also like the quartered costume on the rogue.

Edited by youwashock

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Needs more contrast. I know that is super cliche but that is what it needs most. Deeper shadows and higher highlights. So the color scheme is good and the paint looks smooth. You are neat and the freehand is good. So great job! Base your stuff though.

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What kind of paint are you using? And are you watering them down? Are you using brushes for miniatures? Are you working in a well lit space? Are you just speed painting a single coat of all of them?

 

I see everyone loves to heap on the praise but some sound advice might be more useful. I've only been at this a year or so ...but come on. Some constructive criticism is definitely needed.

 

Don't paint right out of the pot.

Put on a good miniature primer, I have found GW works well on Bones, yes I know they say they dont need a primer... do it.

Get paints for miniatures and water them down.

Get brushes suitable for miniatures, one being a fine detail brush.

Look into washes and check out a youtube video on dry brushing miniatures.

 

I dont mean to be mean but this isnt the special olympics. This person clearly has committed to the hobby if they have done this many in four month. Give them real advice instead of unwarranted praise and in another four months their painting will be something worth praising. People make huge steps in this hobby if people are willing to do more than tell them how awesome they sloppy attempts are.

Edited by Ted Kord
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What kind of paint are you using? And are you watering them down? Are you using brushes for miniatures? Are you working in a well lit space? Are you just speed painting a single coat of all of them?

 

I see everyone loves to heap on the praise but some sound advice might be more useful. I've only been at this a year or so ...but come on. Some constructive criticism is definitely needed.

 

Don't paint right out of the pot.

Put on a good miniature primer, I have found GW works well on Bones, yes I know they say they dont need a primer... do it.

Get paints for miniatures and water them down.

Get brushes suitable for miniatures, one being a fine detail brush.

Look into washes and check out a youtube video on dry brushing miniatures.

 

I dont mean to be mean but this isnt the special olympics. This person clearly has committed to the hobby if they have done this many in four month. Give them real advice instead of unwarranted praise and in another four months their painting will be something worth praising. People make huge steps in this hobby if people are willing to do more than tell them how awesome they sloppy attempts are.

I'll throw out my $.02, particularly for the Owlbear. I actually am going to contradict some of the advice here - I don't prime bones and it seems to come out fine, but I do thin my paints pretty much immediately after my basecoat - this is something I'm working on refining my technique there and getting the right mix. I sometimes do thin with medium on my basecoat.

 

The main point to thinning the paint is to avoid obscuring detail and to avoid getting a sort of grainy appearance when you build up too much. On my most recent project I am starting to get that in the face, so I'm still not doing it enough (my flesh color is GW and it is kind of thick,) but everything is a process, right?

 

That's the thing to keep in mind - work on things, improve your technique one thing at a time. Someone else gave me this same advice on my own Show off thread - it's definitely good for pretty much anything you want to do well.

 

Anyway, to get more specific, I actually really like the color scheme on the Owlbear - I may steal it, but you want it to be a bit more harmonious and natural-looking. Applying the spots with a lighter touch (watered down a bit, for instance) will help with that, or at this point you can also use a brown glaze to bring down the highs and tie it together. Heck, you may want to give it a full brown wash, then maybe touch up the spots lightly to get them to be more highlighted. This will also help with your contrast and help the fur/feathers to stand out more.

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Good attempts at painting for and your girlfriend, but I also believe in giving some advice to kind of pay it forward for all the wonderful advice I get from the amazing people on this site.

 

Totally agree w/ Dontfear and the contrasts, you both need to do more highlight and shading, that makes the figures "pop" more and gives them a lot more definition. Other advice I'd give that I don't see here is the eyes for humanoids. Check out the Bette Davis Eyes method and DKS' method (if you can get to step 4 here you are really good, if you can do the whole thing that's amazing) to try and get better at those.

 

My last piece of advice is to just keep practicing and reading the forums, it's crazy how much you can pick up by looking at other people's work and reading the comments that they are given from everyone else. Keep painting and keep posting!

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. It is most appreciated.

 

We use a combination of Reaper paints and craft paints.

The craft paints are generally used only for base coats or specific colors.

I do not always dilute my paint. That is something I need to get into the habit of doing.

We do use brushes that are for painting models and miniatures.

 

I have been trying to get more contrasts like with the mummy.

I used a black wash on him and then went back and dry brushed the bandages to bring them out more.

 

We use multiple coats of paint when painting.

We use 3 lamps with natural light incandescent bulbs where we paint.

I agree that we need more contrast on the minis. I will have a look at the videos on Youtube for washing and dry brushing.

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The benefit of a good primer specifically made for miniatures is that if goes on much thinner than a basecoat straight out of the pot and because a miniature primer contracts when it dries unlike regular paint, it wont clog up cracks as much and lose the fine detail. My first coat after the primer is never thicker than 50-50 water and even thinner on highlight coats. You can do several watered down coats to get a nice blend for painting light fabric capes. You end up with less paint on them and clogging the detail and its much more evenly applied which keeps it from looking clumpy or having noticeable brush work.

 

Some people have had trouble with some spray can primers on bones. Games Workshop spray, I have found, goes on really thin and is dry by the time I come back inside and get my paints out. Black is considered the best because you can leave a really fine line showing to accent the different parts. I use fenris grey because I have trouble seeing the detail of the mini if it is black.

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Use Brown Liner, rather than a primer. You get the same darklining effect, and it sticks much better than primer, which is designed to bond with metal, but is actually less secure than straight paint on Bones. It's also much thinner right out of the bottle, so you don't obscure the detail.

 

I've also heard reports of every major spray primer reacting strangely to Bones, so I can't recommend them. Some people have used them fine, but they do get tacky and gross for some people, though some do seem to be better than others for Bones.

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Craft paint?! AHH!! :wacko: I think as your reaper paint collection grows (or any miniatures paints, I love Citadels colors) and you start watering them down you will see a huge difference.

 

It's like with instruments, when you switch from your first cheap student instrument to a really good one you realize how much easier everything is and how much better you are at it.

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That's a lot of minis! I really like many of them, regardless of any flaws. I particularly like the strumpet(s). OK, I just love the word. Seriously, some good color choices and some bold ones as well.

 

Good job everyone for giving some advice, not just like/dislike. Glean what you can from the comments and practice, practice, practice.

 

Priming: I always prime. Period. That applies to metal, plastic, resin, etc. I've heard both ways on Bones but honestly I don't own any (until KS2 arrives in a year). Primer gives a more consistent base and allows for thinner (but not watery) paints which in turn allows for better control and much less paint buildup. I always use white primer because it works with my style of painting.

 

Craft paint: I used to use some craft paint but never knew what I was going to get from one to the other. Therein lies the problem: Consistency. Some cover fine. Some are too thin. Some have crummy pigment. Stick with Reaper (or any good brand of hobby paint).

 

Contrast: While contrast is good to a degree (that's what makes shading & highlighting work actually), it can be overdone. The current trend for figures that "pop" can easily look cartoonish and silly regardless of the amount of talent and skill involved or the time and effort that was taken. Some minis that look spectacular in pics look quite bad if viewed without the benefit of a very controlled lighting source, background, camera, etc. In the end, you have to judge for yourselves what style looks good and what doesn't.

 

Basing: Almost a whole other hobby! I currently haven't been doing anything other that painting the integral base on the mini (when present) because I'm not sure what direction I was to go with that aspect. I definitely recommend developing a basing technique for a variety of reasons. Good basing helps complete a mini and gives it the feel that it is in a real environment not just a figure in a vacuum. Basing can give your minis a consistent look and even be something of a signature on your work. Perhaps the best reason for basing if you actually use your minis for gaming is it provides a more stable platform. I for one hate to touch up minis that some gorilla has knocked over repeatedly.

 

One last thing concerning the owlbear. It has been mentioned before but apply the feather/fur markings and THEN apply a brown wash to tie it all together. You can then go back and do a little highlighting/drybrushing to heighten the contrast (there's that word again). Painting from a picture of an actual owl is exactly what you should be doing. Research and reference are vital.

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The new year brings more bones to the table.

 

Great Worm. Unfortunately the picture does not show off the highlights and lowlights in the paint job. Also this is my first real attempt at using washes and dry brushing in combination.

The wash made the worm much darker than I wanted however. Any suggestions on not slaying the colors with the wash? I used a black ink wash over light purple base coat.

post-12178-0-86815500-1390447289.jpg post-12178-0-90868100-1390447290.jpg post-12178-0-27772600-1390447292_thumb.jpg

 

Hell Hound. Another wash and dry brush attempt. I definitely like the way he came out however. Black ink wash over a dark red base coat.

post-12178-0-32845900-1390447293.jpg post-12178-0-36768600-1390447294.jpg

 

Tiik Champions. Done by my girlfriend. They started out a completely different color. They each have different warpaint.

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Tiik Warrior. Done by my girlfriend. This was their second paint job.

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Creature of Blood Reef. Done by my girlfriend.

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Sea Lion. Done by my girlfriend. The mouth on this guy gave her a hard time.

post-12178-0-00534700-1390447320.jpg post-12178-0-66089600-1390447320.jpg

 

Animal Companions I. Done by my girlfriend.

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Werewolf. Done by my girlfriend. The wash and highlight on this is quite nice in my opinion.

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Zombies. I was experimenting with washing and dry brushing with these.

post-12178-0-16764600-1390447347.jpg post-12178-0-85665800-1390447347.jpg

 

Bourbon Street Sophie. Done by my girlfriend. She was quite pleased with the way everything came out, particularly the roses and the stockings.

post-12178-0-41257400-1390447358.jpg post-12178-0-07610500-1390447359.jpg

 

Suggestions are welcome.

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Washes will affect the underlying colours less if you first give them a coat of gloss seal. The effect will vary depending on the manufacturer (Vallejo washes, for example, are a lot more viscous than Citadel) but the gloss surface doesn't provide any tooth for the wash to sink into.

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I like the sea lion mounted on a rectangle of green glass for a base!

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