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joshuaslater

Behind the scenes at Reaper

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I'm asking if the Reaper people can explain a lil' bit about the research and development behind the Bones material. My head exploded last night with questions, as I started priming my Rauthoros in Bones. GW Chaos Black just beaded and ran, but Reaper Pure Black went on and primed the whole model easy-peasy.

 

Now I'm pretty sure the MSP paints came first, so I'm wondering how many different formulae for the Bonesium came through Reaper, and how they matched it with the paint so well. Serendipity? Dumb luck? Doubtful. Reaper has some pretty smart people running the show, so I need to know more about the Bones and paint story.

 

I know you're busy with millions of kickstarter things, but if someone has the time to chime in, I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about this.

 

Cheers.

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My head exploded last night with questions, as I started priming my Rauthoros in Bones. GW Chaos Black just beaded and ran, but Reaper Pure Black went on and primed the whole model easy-peasy.

That's because pure evil can't stain true goodness.

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I haven't tried out GW paint on Bones, but the PVC used seems to be extremely hydrophobic, like wax or oil. Water is repelled and beads up. It could be that GW uses water as a major component of its paints. Acrylic medium seems to stick pretty well, as do a variety of paints (as you have seen with the Reaper paint).

 

Reaper seems to have done some pretty serious R&D on the Bones material, so I would guess that they made sure that it was chemically friendly to the ingredients in their acrylic paint and others. I am frankly surprised that the GW formulation is so different. P3 and Vallejo paints seem to work OK. (I haven't tried any others yet.)

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Different paints do react differently, even within the MSP line. My Walnut Brown and Pure Black are unfortunately not as sturdy as some of my other ones, and haven't been holding up to regular use very well.

 

Reaper may or may not get back to you, explaining the thought process behind Bonesium might be crossing over into trade secrets/confidential business information.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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I don't need trade secrets or the secret formula, but I wonder how many tries it took to get it right? It was like day and night with the coverage.

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Different paints do react differently, even within the MSP line. My Walnut Brown and Pure Black are unfortunately not as sturdy as some of my other ones, and haven't been holding up to regular use very well.

 

 

I did some tests, by the way, on both those colours in MSP and some other problem colours I have from other lines. It's a confirmed issue with specific paints and I was able to replicate the problem easily.

 

Good news is that I also found a solution. Every problem paint I used I then used over my favourite - brown liner. No issues with any done that way that I could determine. So a base of BL underneath ought to do the trick.

 

This should also work for the GW paints with issues and other brands.

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Thanks buglips, I got a bottle of Brown Liner expressly for that purpose, and plan on doing just that with the next mini I paint. I mean, that isn't already in-progress.

 

Huzzah!

--OneBoot :D

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I really like Brown Liner. Blue Liner doesn't seem quite as handy, but might work well for black figures... I should try that. Should get some Gray Liner for S&Gs, too.

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I find blue liner works really well on dead / mechanical figures. Just gives that faint hint of 'not alive' to the shading.

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Well, so far my bottle of pure black hasn't had any issues with my bones. I've been using it to "prime" all my bones. But I think I'll pick a bottle of brown liner in my next order... just in case... of course, that will probably not be until the 12 days o' Reaper. /sigh

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We had looked at about a half dozen materials, and none of them quite worked for our needs. But, we had experimented with the paint on our Legendary Encounters Pre-Painted figures, but those were obviously supplied painted. We knew they used a paint very similar to ours, though. Not the same additives and flatteners, etc. But still, close.

 

So, we asked for samples of unpainted models - and truth be told, we were looking at them NOT as a resale product - but as an inexpensive way to support a paint and take - metal figures were costing us tens of thousands of dollars to donate, and the plastics are significantly cheaper. We asked our supplier for a material that you could paint on without preparation - primer, etc. They said they had a material that you could paint on directly, no reason to spray it twice, it was what they did for the pre-paints, to save time. So we got the PNT models in, and we started testing them. We had already seen 3 or 4 different materials from other suppliers, and were skeptical. But we tried it. Same as always, prime, paint, etc. Results were awesome. Then we tried what they said - no spray primer, no brush on. Bam! They were right. Right enough that everybody at the shop got really excited. We knew this was going to be big, although, we didn't know how big.

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I find blue liner works really well on dead / mechanical figures. Just gives that faint hint of 'not alive' to the shading.

I use blue liner for minis with a cool tone, and brown for warmer minis. This means that most figures end up brown, but I do use it on a reasonably frequent basis.

 

I wonder if it would be possible to produce a paint that's the same opacity/consistency as the liners, but in white, for people who keep trying to prime their Bones.

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