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joshuaslater

Behind the scenes at Reaper

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I find blue liner works really well on dead / mechanical figures. Just gives that faint hint of 'not alive' to the shading.

I use blue liner for minis with a cool tone, and brown for warmer minis. This means that most figures end up brown, but I do use it on a reasonably frequent basis.

 

I wonder if it would be possible to produce a paint that's the same opacity/consistency as the liners, but in white, for people who keep trying to prime their Bones.

 

 

I want it and I'd buy it like buglips buys brown liner. Though I'd prefer a lightish gray, because it's easier for me to paint on and much easier to see on the plastic. Still, give me a white "liner" and I'll make my own gray if I have to.

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They do make a gray liner, but it's almost certainly as dark as the other liners. If they made a white, it would be very easy to put a few drops of each on a palette and mix them.

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They do make a gray liner, but it's almost certainly as dark as the other liners.

 

I have it; it is.

 

(Hence the request for a lightish gray "liner".)

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We had looked at about a half dozen materials, and none of them quite worked for our needs. But, we had experimented with the paint on our Legendary Encounters Pre-Painted figures, but those were obviously supplied painted. We knew they used a paint very similar to ours, though. Not the same additives and flatteners, etc. But still, close.

 

So, we asked for samples of unpainted models - and truth be told, we were looking at them NOT as a resale product - but as an inexpensive way to support a paint and take - metal figures were costing us tens of thousands of dollars to donate, and the plastics are significantly cheaper. We asked our supplier for a material that you could paint on without preparation - primer, etc. They said they had a material that you could paint on directly, no reason to spray it twice, it was what they did for the pre-paints, to save time. So we got the PNT models in, and we started testing them. We had already seen 3 or 4 different materials from other suppliers, and were skeptical. But we tried it. Same as always, prime, paint, etc. Results were awesome. Then we tried what they said - no spray primer, no brush on. Bam! They were right. Right enough that everybody at the shop got really excited. We knew this was going to be big, although, we didn't know how big.

Thanks for taking the time Bryan. I find it really cool how it started with modest intentions and then grew so massive.

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Well, so far my bottle of pure black hasn't had any issues with my bones. I've been using it to "prime" all my bones. But I think I'll pick a bottle of brown liner in my next order... just in case... of course, that will probably not be until the 12 days o' Reaper. /sigh

 

fwiw, the current Learn to Paint Kit 4: Skin Tones has Brown and Blue Liner. https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/Learn%20To%20Paint%20Kits/sku-down/08904

 

Re: Black as a primer: I slapped on runny black Apple Barrel craft paint, and it leaves raised areas white-ish. You actually may want that, so you can more easily highlight raised areas.

 

What sort of tabletop use are there for liners? I've been using a 005 micron pen or brush tip pen for blacklining, or repeated washes. Thanks!

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I usually use gray craft paint to base coat, but sometimes GW black. Either seem to work fine. I've also used Reaper, Vallejo, GW, and some old Citadel paints for the main painting and haven't had any issues. I've tried using craft paint thinned with water to shade and have had mixed results. Thinning with Windex seems to work better for me. Note that, although the Windex is blue, it doesn't affect the paint hue.

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My head exploded last night with questions, as I started priming my Rauthoros in Bones. GW Chaos Black just beaded and ran, but Reaper Pure Black went on and primed the whole model easy-peasy.

That's because pure evil can't stain true goodness.

That is the truest true thing that I have read ever.

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On the off chance you aren't cleaning your bones with soap and water before painting, give it a try. Apparently the mould release agent can adhere to bones and prevents them from taking paint well. I was having similar problems with paint adhering before I started and since I've been cleaning the only problems I've had are with some old GW metallics (even they adhere better than they were though).

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