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Cranky Dog

Translucent bones. A problem or an opportunity?

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Only one point I do not like, it is the red translucent fire. Mostly because I see so often yellow drybrushed fires. Fire painted from the inside out.

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Only one point I do not like, it is the red translucent fire. Mostly because I see so often yellow drybrushed fires. Fire painted from the inside out.

 

That was my first thought when I got the red elemental minis. I would have preferred yellow, or at least a "fiery orange" rather than the deep/dark red that I got here. However, I've gotten fairly decent results by painting white-yellow-orange in the /recesses/ of the fiery figures, and then leaving the edges red. Sure, everywhere I paint in the deep areas won't be TRANSLUCENT, but it still seems to work nicely enough on the table. The deeper red therefore ends up at the extremities of the figure, where the plastic tends to thin out a bit (for greater translucence), giving the figure something of a "soft" edge that I think contributes nicely to communicating that it's a non-solid entity, even if the core of the figure is bright and opaque. (The effect seems to capture better in person, rather than in a photo, though.)

 

Example: Large Fire Elemental:

2013-07-06-reaper-bones-77082-fire-eleme

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Jordan Peacock, that's the sort of effect I want when I start painting the elementals.

 

About baking soda bases, would varnish help protect from yellowing? I've only done a couple of snow bases using soda and they're still white after several years. I tend to finish off my bases before spraying them so that the varnish helps to hold the flock, sand, soda, whatever on.

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I am not a fan of the translucent figures I got in my first Bones kickstarter. It makes them look too much like toys instead of figures I can paint to a high standard. If I paint over them, I feel like I wasting the translucent effect.

 

Plus the wings of the Elemental girl were super-thin

 

I'd rather buy them in regular white plastic.

 

--Chris

www.chrisvalera.com

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Anywhere from 8 months to Never. The problem is that baking soda is a base, and chemically reactive. How fast it changes color, if at all, depends on what is in the air. It's a roll of the dice.

 

And dice hate me.

I've seen it argued that it's not so much the baking soda as the glue used that causes the yellowing.

 

Overall inconclusive for now.

 

 

 

I can confirm it's the baking soda. Remember, people put it in their fridge because it absorbs odors. This means it also absorbs other contaminants. To what extent it will turn will depend on the environment and whether or not it is covered (i.e. used as ground cover in a display case).

 

For example - if you live in a low dust, low pollutant, low humdity environment and it is covered - may stay white for a long time.

 

But if you live in average+ humidity, it is uncovered, and you smoke? It'll be shoe leather brown in a month or two.

 

Thanks for the info Buglips. ::):

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Personally, I use Woodland Scenics "Soft Flake Snow." It works great with cyanoacrylate superglue for thick blankets of snow, or with craft glue for thin ground cover.

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Personally, I use Woodland Scenics "Soft Flake Snow." It works great with cyanoacrylate superglue for thick blankets of snow, or with craft glue for thin ground cover.

 

Second this. I think (you might want to look this up first) that you can also mix it white white glue and make a "paste" you can use to sculpt snowdrifts. But I'm not 100% sure on that, because that comes from my dabbling in other hobby forums and I don't spend as much time with the railroaders and armor people as I do here.

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Has anyone thought of/tried inserting a small led into the base of one these translucent minis yet?

Edited by Bloodhowl

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Has anyone thought of/tried inserting a small led into the base of one these translucent minis yet?

 

People have mentioned it, and someone might have even tried it, but I haven't seen much in the way of photos/video of someone having done it.

 

I thought about it, then decided I would need to learn basing skills first.

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I have, but I need to build the base that is going to hold the LED set up. I am using a cheap LED 'tealight candle' for a jack-o-lantern with the big fire elemental

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Only one point I do not like, it is the red translucent fire. Mostly because I see so often yellow drybrushed fires. Fire painted from the inside out.

 

That was my first thought when I got the red elemental minis. I would have preferred yellow, or at least a "fiery orange" rather than the deep/dark red that I got here. However, I've gotten fairly decent results by painting white-yellow-orange in the /recesses/ of the fiery figures, and then leaving the edges red. Sure, everywhere I paint in the deep areas won't be TRANSLUCENT, but it still seems to work nicely enough on the table. The deeper red therefore ends up at the extremities of the figure, where the plastic tends to thin out a bit (for greater translucence), giving the figure something of a "soft" edge that I think contributes nicely to communicating that it's a non-solid entity, even if the core of the figure is bright and opaque. (The effect seems to capture better in person, rather than in a photo, though.)

 

Example: Large Fire Elemental:

2013-07-06-reaper-bones-77082-fire-eleme

 

That's how I like it. :-)

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I love translucent miniatures,

 

That is all.

 

:)

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I have to say, I am pretty impressed with the photos I have seen. There are some mighty fine paintjobs on these translucent minis. Mine however, look awful, and I think I am going to have to "pine-soak" them all.

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I found the glow in the dark craft paint needed a lot .. A LOT.. of thin layers to be really effective.. but it still wasn't all that bright

I did not use a lot of layers - but I also spritzed with The Army Painter matte sealer first, then an ink wash, then the GitD paint - so there was more to it to cling to.I did not try to drybrush straight onto the Bones.

 

That, I was going for a very pale luminescence without losing the translucence of the figure.

 

I have not yet tried it on the, umm... ghost chick thingum....

 

The Auld Grump

Edited by TheAuldGrump

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