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Cranky Dog

Translucent bones. A problem or an opportunity?

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I have to say, I am pretty impressed with the photos I have seen. There are some mighty fine paintjobs on these translucent minis. Mine however, look awful, and I think I am going to have to "pine-soak" them all.

Well, look at it this way... now you know what not to do ::):

 

Also, I'd soak them in simple green. I can't recall if anyone has tested the effect of pine-sol on the translucents.

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I am thinking about spritzing the large elemental with matte sealer, then doing an orange paint wash, followed by brushing in yellow at the deepest points - if it doesn't work, well... Simple Green....

 

The Auld Grump

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I don't know who posted it somewhere here on the forums, but the Tamiya Clears do some amazing things to the translucent figures. Based on the posts here, I started experimenting with the Clear Red I had on one of the fire walls. I liked the effect, so I went and picked up the rest of the colors.

 

The neat thing about the Tamiya clears is that they actually make the translucents clearer. This effect is best seen on the wings of the fire spirit girl. And the various colors tint things a bit differently - Painting with Clear Yellow gives a slightly different shade to the mini than tinting with Clear Orange or Clear Red.

Once I get a chance, I'll post some pics of what I've done so far.

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I don't know who posted it somewhere here on the forums, but the Tamiya Clears do some amazing things to the translucent figures. Based on the posts here, I started experimenting with the Clear Red I had on one of the fire walls. I liked the effect, so I went and picked up the rest of the colors.

 

The neat thing about the Tamiya clears is that they actually make the translucents clearer. This effect is best seen on the wings of the fire spirit girl. And the various colors tint things a bit differently - Painting with Clear Yellow gives a slightly different shade to the mini than tinting with Clear Orange or Clear Red.

 

Once I get a chance, I'll post some pics of what I've done so far.

 

It was probably me - I haven't seen anyone else experimenting with the Tamiya Clears on this board : )

 

I'd love to see what you've done. I've also noticed the Tamiya Clears making the translucents clearer - I'd be willing to bet that Reaper Brush-on Sealer or other transparent 'varnishes' have the same effect on the translucents as well (I may actually try it on one of the figures I have left). I think that what's happening is the liquid gets into the flaws and pits of the figure and smooths it out, giving it a much clearer appearance.

 

I also really need to get around to stripping a couple of the experiments that didn't work so I can see if Simple Green stains the translucents a different color, or has issues getting the paint off.

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I've got to agree that a clear transparent that I could tint according to my needs would be best for me: but for the average buyer who can use them unpainted 'as-is', they're pretty much perfect as they are.

 

Yes, exactly. I'm one of those average buyers who has no intention of painting them. In fact, seeing someone say they "have" to be painted made me go "huh?!?" Then I remembered that Bones are something of a new concept to both sides of the buyer equation - on one side are the minis hobbyists for whom figures are an end in themselves, and on the other side are buyers like me for whom Bones are a means to an end - gaming. The former sees an unpainted mini; the latter just sees a mini.

Edited by jlblack
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on one side are the minis hobbyists for whom figures are an end in themselves, and on the other side are buyers like me for whom Bones are a means to an end - gaming. The former sees an unpainted mini; the latter just sees a mini.

 

I wonder where that puts me, then...

 

I bought them for gaming, but see nothing but unpainted minis (though I use them unpainted until I get around to them).

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on one side are the minis hobbyists for whom figures are an end in themselves, and on the other side are buyers like me for whom Bones are a means to an end - gaming. The former sees an unpainted mini; the latter just sees a mini.

 

I wonder where that puts me, then...

 

I bought them for gaming, but see nothing but unpainted minis (though I use them unpainted until I get around to them).

 

 

I wouldn't try to parse what I said too finely. The point is that a lot of minis hobbyists take it as a given that Bones need to be painted, while gamers, even if they like the idea of painted minis, don't let that stand in the way of using them (as is the case with you). I'm guessing a lot of people who played Wrath of Ashardalon or even the Dungeon boardgame from years back didn't feel a need to paint the minis included with those games. I'm sure some did, of course. Maybe I should have used the classic green army men as an example; I view Bones as a higher-quality, more finely-detailed counterpart to those.

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I wouldn't try to parse what I said too finely. The point is that a lot of minis hobbyists take it as a given that Bones need to be painted, while gamers, even if they like the idea of painted minis, don't let that stand in the way of using them (as is the case with you). I'm guessing a lot of people who played Wrath of Ashardalon or even the Dungeon boardgame from years back didn't feel a need to paint the minis included with those games. I'm sure some did, of course. Maybe I should have used the classic green army men as an example; I view Bones as a higher-quality, more finely-detailed counterpart to those.

Hell, I painted the DnD pre-painted plastics that I own (which is very few, but I saw them as "needs to be painted").

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I am thinking about spritzing the large elemental with matte sealer, then doing an orange paint wash, followed by brushing in yellow at the deepest points - if it doesn't work, well... Simple Green....

 

The Auld Grump

Tried it, and it worked... okay.

 

I can do better with actual painting, so...

 

On the flip side - I really won't have to use Simple Green - the wash was thin enough that it can be painted over very easily.

 

A similar attempt with the undead, on the other hand, looked pretty good - a wash with Glow in the Dark paint instead of a highlight with same.

 

Both worked - I prefer the GitD highlight a bit, but both work fine.

 

The Auld Grump

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A similar attempt with the undead, on the other hand, looked pretty good - a wash with Glow in the Dark paint instead of a highlight with same.

 

Both worked - I prefer the GitD highlight a bit, but both work fine.

 

The Auld Grump

 

I would like to see this, please.

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I have glow in the dark hot glue that I've been dying to try on something...

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They're made of different plastic than Bonseium so prep is a little different. It might as well be teflon (non-stick). You gotta 'prime' them with some sort of clear coat so the paint has something to adhear to.

I found this to be true as well. I recommend the brush on sealer with a little fluorescent yellow paint mixed in, as a base coat. Then dry brush the darker color on the raised parts.

 

 

Buckyball

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I don't know who posted it somewhere here on the forums, but the Tamiya Clears do some amazing things to the translucent figures. Based on the posts here, I started experimenting with the Clear Red I had on one of the fire walls. I liked the effect, so I went and picked up the rest of the colors.

 

The neat thing about the Tamiya clears is that they actually make the translucents clearer. This effect is best seen on the wings of the fire spirit girl. And the various colors tint things a bit differently - Painting with Clear Yellow gives a slightly different shade to the mini than tinting with Clear Orange or Clear Red.

 

Once I get a chance, I'll post some pics of what I've done so far.

 

It was probably me - I haven't seen anyone else experimenting with the Tamiya Clears on this board : )

 

I'd love to see what you've done. I've also noticed the Tamiya Clears making the translucents clearer - I'd be willing to bet that Reaper Brush-on Sealer or other transparent 'varnishes' have the same effect on the translucents as well (I may actually try it on one of the figures I have left). I think that what's happening is the liquid gets into the flaws and pits of the figure and smooths it out, giving it a much clearer appearance.

 

I also really need to get around to stripping a couple of the experiments that didn't work so I can see if Simple Green stains the translucents a different color, or has issues getting the paint off.

 

 

Does anyone know if the Reaper Clears can be used instead of the Tamiyas? I don't have a single Tamiya paint but I have all the clears from Reaper. I'd experiment but I only have one transparent Bones mini to paint at the moment. Guess simple green could let me try it out and not worry to much about making a mistake.

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http://www.reapermini.com/forum/index.php?/topic/52000-ooooh-spoooooky-77099-nightspectre-and-77007-ghost/

 

Reapers clears aren't near as translucent as the Tamiya ones, being more towards pure pigment than tranpsarent paint That said if you seal the figure with something clear, and use them thinned, they do work.

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The problem is that the RMS Clear paints are completely different from the Tamiya Clears.

 

The Tamiya's are translucent - they give a result similar to stained glass or liquid on a figure. That's why they see use as blood & water effects. They're also alcohol based and somewhat tricky to work with in that they're as sticky as a stick insect.

 

The Reaper Clears are basically the same as normal RMS paints. Some people say they have 'pure pigment', but I'm not qualified to comment. I do know from what Reaper have said previously that the majority of their shades are mixed using the Clear colors, and from personal experience they give a wonderfully vivid color. What they are not, in any way, is translucent or clear like the Tamiya Clear paints.

 

  • if you paint a translucent green Bones with the Tamiya Clear Green, you get a translucent figure out of the box. No fuss, no mess, it Just Works™
  • if you paint a translucent green Bones with the RMS Clear Green, you're going to get a single shade of green figure with no translucency. Yeah, if you prep the figure and wave the rubber gris-gris over it 5 times you MIGHT get something close to what you want - but it's going to take trial and error to get there.

The short version? If you want a translucent figure out of the box that matches what people are doing with the Tamiya Clear paints, then the RMS Clear paints will not work as a substitute.

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