Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Cranky Dog

Translucent bones. A problem or an opportunity?

80 posts in this topic

4 hours ago, bojesphob said:

So, I used games workshop washes on my translucent ones (will put in pics momentarily), but I have a Kyphrixis clear coming in the mail, and I want to do a sort of ice dragon for it, with some bluish colors as the wash and then drybrush some white on the edges to make it look sort of cold/cracked/etc. Would the Tamiya Clear Blue be a good choice for that, or would it be too extreme for a clear translucent? A watered down of it?

I'm not sure. 

I plan on picking up a bunch of the oozes, and trying out all of the different colors on the clear before I do my Kyphrixis, but that won't be until after the B4 KS is over. 

I think it might be too strong unless you thin it, however, my understanding is that you don't want to thin the Tamiya Clears with water - you should use the Tamiya Thinner. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, kristof65 said:

I'm not sure. 

I plan on picking up a bunch of the oozes, and trying out all of the different colors on the clear before I do my Kyphrixis, but that won't be until after the B4 KS is over. 

I think it might be too strong unless you thin it, however, my understanding is that you don't want to thin the Tamiya Clears with water - you should use the Tamiya Thinner. 

 

Ah. I did just watch a video on youtube that compared the Tamiya with a few other brands of washes/colors that do about the same thing, and I may end up getting the Guilliman Blue glaze from GW for my Kyphrixis. I have the green and red glazes, and they are WAY weaker than the full blown washes, and easy to water down if need be, but wanted to see if there was something comparable that might work better.

 

 

What I'm going to do with Kyphrixis when I get it is I will first test on the base what i end up trying to do. Main reason being I'm going to paint the base as rocks and leave Kyprixis clear, so I can paint over whatever I do as a test. I get Kyphirixis in the mail today (YAY!) but have to order whatever glaze/wash I am going to use since I don't have a local store that has paints unfortunately.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got it figured out. I got a bottle of the Guilliman Blue by GW, and realized it was WAY too blue for what I wanted to do. So, I mixed a little bit with some Nihilakh Oxide (which is a technical paint by GW that you can use to put a patina on brass or copper), and it turned out pretty well. I'll be posting a finished pic in the Show Off area shortly :)

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I kind of wish they would re-release the wraith in a clear spectral blue.. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/17/2017 at 7:25 PM, kristof65 said:


I plan on picking up a bunch of the oozes, and trying out all of the different colors on the clear before I do my Kyphrixis, but that won't be until after the B4 KS is over. 
 

Finally got around to doing this.  Results can be seen here:

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/77223-77306-translucent-slimes-and-tamiya-clears/

 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Maledrakh
      In the third Bones kickstarter, one of the dragons was made available in clear Bones material, in addition to the normal offwhite the Bones usually come in. Naturally, I opted for the clear one.
      Reiterating how to paint translucent minis:
      Clearly, it is nessecary to use paints that in themselves are translucent, such as inks or quickshades to preserve some of the dragon’s own translucency or it will all be for nought!
      From bitter experience I know that the usual opaque paints will *not* work if you want any sort of translucent effect, even if they are thinned considerably. Many acrylic paints such as I use, (e.g. Citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper,  Scale 75 etc) will cover in a certain way which obscures the translucency, also when thinned. Some will leave a “chalky” look. This is mostly apparent in pale and whitish paints.
      So anyway:
       

       
      The key to painting a transparent mini is first to scrub it in warm, soapy water to remove any mold release residue (silicon, talc or whatever. It is greasy and stops the paint from sticking properly to the mini.) The plastic/resin is in itself also somewhat paint repellent on it’s own, so:
      When dry, undercoat it with clear, (preferably matte) varnish. This lets the paint adhere to the mini just like a normal opaque undercoat.
      Then, knock yourself out with inks or quickshades. Experiment with several layers and different colours, even wet blending as you go. Take care to remove any unwanted pools of paint that might gather. I use a clean, damp brush for this.
      Opaque paints should be kept only for extremely light highlighting and any bits that are to be opqaque, such as the base, or for effects such as making eyes pop.
      I used Army Painter Soft Tone quickshade ink (the water based stuff that comes in a dropperbottle, not the horrendous and smelly dip that goes by the same name). In additon I used Army Painter Green quickshade, with claws and eyesockets in Red quickshade. Eyeballs were done in old Citadel Golden Yellow, and the entire body was given an extremely light drybrush with  Reaper Dirty Bone on a broad brush. The teeth were picked out in the same dirty bone.
      The bedrock was glued down to one of my custom oval 3Dprinted bases, and painted in opaques in the same way as I do most rock these days: Dark green/grey over black, heavy drybrush in sandy yellow followed by a lighter drybrush with off white.
      Some tufts, thinned pva glue and my magic flock /scatter mix later, voila.
      I kept the dragon and the base as two seperate parts when painting to avoid slopping the wrong kind of paint where it was not meant to go. I even remembered to paint the plugs on the underside of the feet that were to be in contact with the base to avoid ugly bright patches there.
       





      I opted for a relatively heavy stain.
      To make the colour less colouring. thin the quickshade with preferably acrylic medium, or water. This needs a bit more shepherding and brushwork up until the ink starts to dry enough to stay still, to avoid an uneven result.
       
       
      Kyphrixis (clear variant)
      Reaper Bones KS3
      Translucent bones
      125mm x 90mm oval base
       
       
    • By Lidless Eye
      Just a bunch of Eastern myth themed minis, mostly from Bones III and one Kenku/Tengu Monk from Stonehaven.

      Oh, and some Myconids from Ganesha Games and Bones III plant monsters.  More Mario than myth, I suppose.
       

       
      Oni close-up:
       


      Kitsune close-up:



      I like the male Kitsuine a lot more than I was expecting.  His pose, with all its swagger, adds a lot of character.  I also hadn't noticed the sake cup he was holding until I started painting.
    • By jonaas33
      Whipped this guy up while taking a break from a few bigger projects.  There are a LOT of touchups that I need to make, but for a palette cleanser, I think he turned out pretty cool.  I think I need to find a place in my house with better lighting, because I notice a lot of detail errors when I get the close-up picture taken that I never saw when painting.  Does anyone use magnifying glass or something else to help with smaller parts of a fig?  I have excellent vision, but the difference between just looking at a fig on a tabletop and getting picture taken is pretty stark.  Now I need to come up with a Big Bad Evil Guy so I can use this guy during an adventure.  I appreciate any advice and critiques!  Thanks!


    • By Ash Adler
      Intellect devourers were always one of my favorite D&D monsters, so I'd been planning on painting this mini eventually, but I never got around to buying it since it was kind of plain compared to most other minis.  As fortune had it, though, I got it as a bonus with my last order from Reaper, so I decided to just do it.  Color scheme was based on a mixture of the AD&D 2nd Edition Monstrous Manual intellect devourer, the more "realistic" 3rd edition version, and a smattering of actual crabs.
       

       
      As usual, the process of working on it is on my blog: link
       
      Unfortunately, I wasn't sure how to handle holding a mini without a base that I could stick on top of a shot glass.  I held it by unpainted parts for as long as I could, but in the end, I held it by the brain to finish off the talons.  Sadly, that led to some of the paint getting rubbed off (probably could've avoided at least some of that if I hadn't been squeezing it so hard, but it's easy to forget my strength at times).  Aside from that, though, I'm rather pleased with how it turned out .  It was a simple mini, but I enjoyed it.  C&C welcome (especially any tips for how to avoid damaging finished paint on baseless minis, short of varnishing a completed area to hold it by for the final parts).
    • By Ash Adler
      I'm glad I got talked into checking out these kits.  Having someone walk me through what exactly to do really helped me to focus on what was happening with the mini without getting distracted by thinking about the next color choice or whatever.
       

      Honestly, the skeleton was probably my favorite of the 3 minis.  Sure, it doesn't have as much going on with it as the other two, but the simplicity makes it good for learning, it's the one that seems best suited to "drybrush EVERYTHING" approach to highlighting, and besides, the dopey look of it is rather cute
       

      This one, on the other hand, was kind of a nightmare.  It's not so much that there was anything particularly difficult about the model itself (it's actually posed to make things pretty easy to access all around), but it was just horrible trying to drybrush it with any real sort of cleanliness (not talking so much about how I clearly overdid it in some areas as stuff like the random brown smudges on his skin, metal sparkles on his leather parts, etc.).  Well, that, and I had a hell of a time getting the brush to survive banging into the spikey bits no matter how careful/gentle I tried to be with it when doing the leather bits.
       
      Getting more eye practice is never a bad thing, at least.  I even managed to keep the black outline all around the whites this time!
       

      This one annoyed me to start out because I just couldn't get the sword to set straight no matter how much I overbent it in the other direction while doing the whole hot/cold water thing.  Once I decided to just give up and go with it, though, it was pretty smooth.  Probably the best looking of the three in the end.
       
      All in all, it was a very valuable learning experience.  Hoping that the learning keep going on through the next kit as well!
  • Who's Online   46 Members, 3 Anonymous, 0 Guests (See full list)