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Hi every one, I play this game called Heroscape, its been discontinued since 2005 but there is still a decent following over at heroscapers.com

 

A while back we started talking about and started a few threads on conversions and terrain that could be used. The only differences is that Heroscape is played on hexes and most of the figures are around 28mm tall. When converting it is really easy to just skip the hex part of the tutorial and apply this for any miniature game. With a bunch of pirate figures in the reaper line plus the pathfinder pirate and water themed figures, I thought it would be a good idea to share this over here.

 

I have converted several ships and misc. terrain, I will start copying some of my guides and tutorials here and modify it so it makes sense for non Heroscape use. So any suggestions or comments are always welcomed.

 

Now lets go drown some minis!

 

 

First, a mini project. These boards are dedicated to a hobby that's all about massive retrofitting and repainting, but most people in other board games like very simple easy projects. for this purpose I did the following two tutorials that where supposed to be simple and done in under half an hour or so.

 

 

Canoes



Canoes
The goal is to make a 3 figure canoe with minimal fuss.


Materials

Mats.jpg

 

(Notice the Heroscape figure on a oversized base. Makes creating terrain tricky to fit such large bases. Should be a lot easier with the smaller bases found in Path Finder, Reaper and D&D bases.)

The canoe
Some paint ( or wood stain)
A brush ( Even a cheap normal sized paintbrush)
A marker ( thin tipped or really good ink pen) Not needed since no hexes will be drawn
Some needle nose pliers or sharp scissors

I purchased the canoes in Hobby Lobby for $2.67 plus taxes but they always have 40% off sales so you can get them even cheaper. Plus they mail them from their online store too. I recently got half a dozen for only $3.50 shipping special they had going on last week.


canoe1.jpg

This is the tag so its easier to find them when searching online

canoe2.jpg

Now the modifications!

First you have to tear off the stand and the inside ribs. Don't just tear them off because the body of the canoe is a really thin balsa wood and it tears easy. I suggest trying it this way ( not that I tore up my first two canoes....)

The stand is united by 2 thin wooden bars , cut these in half with your pliers or scissors and then just wiggle the stands back and forth. They are glued with a hot glue gun it seems and they just pop off.

Same with the ribs, if you just snap them off they might tear off a piece of the hull with them. ( I did that twice).
Instead, just cut them in the middle then use the pliers to twist them in a circle and they just pop off with out damaging the hull.

This is what you should be left with:

canoe3.jpg

I took these pictures in the hotel since I couldnt wait to get home to actualy do it the right way :)

The inside fits 2 easy but 3 figures a little snug but they fit really well.

canoe4.jpg

Next I painted the canoe. I used a brush and some wood varnish I had thrown around but you can just get a really nice brown ( or tan) from any hobby shop like Hobby Lobby or Micheals for just $1 a bottle. Get two colors of brown a darker tan and a really light tan for highlights. You can even just spray paint them brown then use a brush ( even a house brush since this is not a delicate project) And give it a really light coat of your highlight color. I gave mine a wash of black paint diluted in water but it didnt really do much.

Ignore the hexes, I drew those with a sharpie. Not needed here.

Hexes.jpg

And that was it !

Done2.jpg

Now my Mohicans can move in style!

Done1.jpg




 

 

 

 

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Rowboats



Rowboats


2-Figure cheap rowboats ! Another 20 minute project ( or an hour if you do the full planked deck!!)

There are actually a few cool rowboats out there, they can be found in :
Pirate battles board game ( Brings 2)
Lego Row Boats ( kinda small )
Mega Bloks ( 2 types, the one that comes with pirate sets and ships and the one from set 1012 Dead mans chest, its kind of a flat board with railings)

The hulls I used for this custom was the Mega Bloks rowboat that comes with a bunch of different pirate sets or with the mega bloks ships. They are pretty cheap and can be found often on eBay for around $4-$6 each but normally as part of a larger lot of loose mega bloks. Some times you will see them posted as Lego because most people do not know the difference. They come in a several shades of brown.


This is my before and after picture. This project should not take more than half an hour if you print out the deck and a half hour more if you build the deck from scratch.

RowBoat1.jpg

Here are the materials used. If you decide to print out the deck then you will need some simple white glue and a printer instead of the popsicle sticks.

Here I used
Clippers or Needle Nose Pliers
Sharp Scissors
Piece of thin plastic for the deck ( very expensive plasticard or really cheap * For sale signs* from Kmart / Wal-Mart )
Thin magic marker to draw the hexes or a pencil Again, Not needed
Popsicle sticks ( either buy a small pack or just raid your local coffee shop)
Crazy glue or another strong quick setting glue
Xacto Knife or hobby knife ( or in my case a scalpel )


RowBoat2.jpg




First thing I did was just to rip out the two little benches. Don't worry about being gentle as they can be pried off pretty easy with your pliers or just stick a screw driver under them just careful not to damage the upper edges of your rowboat.


RowBoat3.jpg



Once you remove the bench, you may have to clean up the pegs. They have to be flush with your lower edge or your deck will teeter-totter back and forth. The lower edge of the hull is where you will "sit" your deck.


RowBoat4.jpg



Nothing fancy, just clip or cut away those messy tops. Make sure they end up flush.


RowBoat5.jpg



Now this is what takes the most time when building any ship, its the template. Some people like to plank directly to the hull, I suggest making a template, stick your deck onto the template then glue it on the deck. Easier to build, and easier to paint. I will demonstrate two different decks you can use but they will both use this template to save you time of having to carve and test fit your deck template until it fits your hull.


RowBoattemplate001.jpg

I will need help with this. I am not sure how to scan and post a template so that every time you print it, it comes out the right size. As I am limited on my computer skills I will ask for help later making a better template. For now, when you print this one make sure you do it the normal size and not FIT TO PAGE.

For me, I just open it on PAINT, and click on PAGE SET UP, then turn off the option FIT TO PAGE, so that it prints out the normal size. I am sure there is a better way, if any one knows how please let me know :)


Once you have your template printed out, either cut out the paper template and trace it on your plastic sheet of paper ( Seriously these cheap signs from Wal-Mart are pretty much the same thing as plasti-card) For my decks I choose the much larger 2 foot signs ( HOUSE FOR SALE) because they are much thicker and only cost $4. They are great for making solid decks easy to trim with scissors.

Any how, once you trace and cut out your plastic deck, test fit it inside your rowboat, trim as needed but try not to cut out too much as then it will look sloppy or just not sit right. Its better to trim very little at a time then having to start over.



RowBoat6.jpg


Since I know I am going to be making about a dozen of these rowboats I take my best plastic deck and scribble TEMPLATE over it to avoid me using it and instead use it as a master template to make more copies with. Try using a sharp pencil or very thin marker as this is thicker material when you trace it will make the copy larger then it should be unless you get very close in to the edge when tracing.


RowBoat7.jpg

Now comes the fun part.

You can either Deck your ship with Option A or B

Option A , print out a deck pattern and glue it on your plastic deck, trim it again and your done in 10 minutes OOOOOORRR

My favorite, Option B actually plank the deck!!



Option A - Printed deck



There are a lot of wooden plank templates you can find online, all sorts of wood colors, I found this one I liked and had the right size.

RowBoat14.jpg



Here is the original picture, make sure to print out in the best quality to make the colors stand out.


wooden_floorboards_021772.jpg

Now remember that I mentioned not being really good with computers? I still use Paint to edit my pictures since I have never tried to learn Photoshop. ( I really should too)

This is how I managed to print this picture to get it the right size. I am sure some one else can explain it in a better way.

RowBoat17.jpg


I choose the 4X6 setting to get it to print the right size.

Once printed I just glued the paper right on my template waited till it was dry and trimmed it out.


Ill post the finished effect in the bottom of this guide. No painting needed and super easy to do. I Like keeping the original colored plastic hull of the rowboat since it makes it match the rest of the board better.

I was surprised on how well this looked and will try this method on a much larger ship next time.



Option B WALK THE PLANK!! I mean plank the decks!



This is really not needed but its a lot of fun to do. I had no idea the printed version would look that good but I still prefer making my own decks as it gives it a realistic grainy look I enjoy. This will add another 30 minutes to your build time.

First measure up about 10-15 popsicle sticks to choose the straight ones and avoid setting down some messed up crooked ones into your crazy glue.

Also glue them on to the dark side of your template or paint your black to avoid white cracks in between your planks in case they don't all line up pretty.


RowBoat8.jpg


I make a line of crazy glue down the middle to serve as a guide to line up all my other "planks". Crazy glue might squeeze through your planks and dry on the top if you use to much, this only affects you if you wanted to stain the wood with varnish and will change the effect. You will have to lightly sand your plank to give it a smooth soft finish and this will help get rid of the excess glue if it does happen to stick out. You can use slower drying glue but this drives me crazy and makes planking so much harder for me. Must be lack of skill but I am working on it.


RowBoat9.jpg


Once I have pressed the planks one at a time together and lost my figure prints along the way and spilled glue on the Paramedics work table or glued little bits of wood to my work uniform. I finished the deck in just a few minutes. I let it dry for about 5 minutes while pressing it down flat on the table to make sure everything is flat and straight.


RowBoat10.jpg

Now just use your scissors and trim it, the scalpel works great for the little corners.


RowBoat11.jpg


Once your deck has been made you can either leave it like that, or you can paint it or stain it with wood varnish. The one on the left is the normal color the one on the right is cherry wood stain I think.

Here is a simple wood painting guide I found from hirst arts.

wood.jpg

I like putting hexes on all my terrain to make it look official. Here I traced 2 hexes using a glyp. I started from the bottom and traced upwards. Once I had my pencil lines I carved them out with my scalpel. I did 2 cuts on each line, each one diagonally to carve out a little V where the line was. When painted or stained it really stands out. You could always just draw your hexes with a thin marker, most of these details will not be noticed from tabletop distance anyway.

RowBoat12.jpg


Here is a completed unpainted planked deck. Took me about 15 minutes start to finish with crazy glue.


RowBoat13.jpg



Here are the two versions of the decks I showed you, I must say although I am a fan of the planked deck, the second easier to do deck the printed out one, looks really neat and even better then mine. I really must give this a try on my larger ships. After I took this picture I drew Hexes on the printed deck.

RowBoat15.jpg





Here are my two decks, one took less then 20 minutes and the second a little over half an hour, both easy to do.





RowBoat16.jpg



Now go drown some minis!!


 

Edited by Gamgan
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Sea Monster



Saw this on another minis website a while ago and had it on my Will-do-eventualy-list. Seemed like an easy enough project. First I had to find where I could buy the Wild Republic Octupus, for $3.75 on amazon and a measly $25 shipping charge to Puerto Rico since Amazon vendors think Puerto Rico is located on the dark side of the moon....

So I had 2 of these shipped to someone stateside and he was nice enough to forward them to me. Easy mod to do

Seamonster1.jpg

Very soft rubber, easy to slice off, remember when cutting off the tentacles that if you want to keep the body try to trim it so a little of the tentacles stick out of the base.

Seamonster2.jpg

The base is a little high so slice off the bottom half to lower the heads profile to the water. Very easy to do since the rubber is soft. Also carved out a little the stumps to flatten them out when I glued them.

Seamonster3.jpg

I used a mage knight base for the body, I think it was a Mage Knight Giant's base I converted for my brothers D&D game.

Seamonster4.jpg


I grabbed some 25mm bases and spray painted them a krylon blue. I like how bright the blue is, but next time I will use larger bases for the tentacles as they are all top heavy and these tiny bases where not a good call.. Larger bases would have been better to stabilize the arms.


Seamonster5.jpg

To help hold them in place and to give them a little weight in the bottom I used screws and nails, I would slice a slit into the arm and the tricky part is to trim the arm so that it sort of stands up by its self and balances the weight to the middle. These are easy to trim and I would just keep slicing thin slices at different angles untill they almost stood up by them selves.

Seamonster6.jpg

Next time.. bigger bases

Seamonster7.jpg

I think I used goop to glue these down but any glue would have worked, I could have used the hot glue gun but since these should see some play and handling they might have just popped off, so regular glue seemed best.

Seamonster8.jpg

I bought Water effects specifically for this project. It was really fun to work with and looks great. I have seen similar results with clear silicone and it might have worked just as well. I dabbed the water effects around the bases, and used a paper clip to pull up and away to create the splash effect. After leaving it 24 hours to dry, it turns clear, but I painted them a dark blue to match the base, then a very heavy drybrush of white for the splash. It was surprisingly easy to do.

Seamonster9.jpg

I don't have stats for this guy yet, and no idea how I will use him, but here he is attacking an unfinished Mega Bloks Black Pearl that is being converted for 28mm terrain.

Seamonster10.jpg

The water effect is not really needed but helps a lot, I am sure clear silicone would have worked just as well, this project can be done under $6 if you order the octopus stateside through amazon.

Seamonster11.jpg



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Nice little projects, look like fun. For the kraken, I would think you'd have an easier time with the tentacles if you used metal washers for the bases. Glue two together for weight and you've got a solid little base. Cheap, too, for folks without a bag full of bases already.

 

Your terrain looks really nice, too. Looks fun to play on.

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Thank you. I have a couple more I want to post but had to run to the dentist first.

 

washers seem like a perfect idea. Lower level to the ground so the splash looks like coming out of the water.

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I should probably post this under customs, but since I had done this as a water monster for the boats and canoe terrain, Ill post it here. ( Plus I have not started a random MISC WIP thread yet to place it else where :)

 

Hydra with removable Heads ( magnetized)



I'm not sure where I saw this first, either Killometer's customs or Filthy The Clown's but Kudos to them both for the great idea over at Heroscapers.com they did it with a paperclip (Pinned but not glued) I think.

 

Heroscape had an expansion made that was a master-set with D&D theme, and a whole wave of D&D figures rebased and called something else. In this wave 13 we got the Hydra, its a repainted D&D hydra.

First I needed to gather up my tools.


1a-1.jpg

Crazy Glue
Rare Earth Magnets ( Size 1/16)
Drill bit ( Size 5/32) I wrapped it in duct tape to make a handle and used it as a hand drill as I was scared to use a power drill on such a tiny neck.
Scalpel or razor blade ( Be careful !! )
The Victim, AKA The Fen Hydra
And the blow torch , just to sit on your work table to look cool, even though my Girlfriend wont let me use it indoors..... :(


2-2.jpg

I was lucky to get a great deal on some hydras on eBay and soon as they arrived they where doomed! I mean ready for this custom project! I cut off 3 heads per hydra since after 3 wound markers he's out of the game on the 4th hit, no reason to make 4 removable heads.

P1020032.jpg

When you make the cut, you want it to be as seamless as possible, that's why I used a sharp scalpel to make the cut as clean and small as possible. I also cut along the grooves of the hydras neck and down the crest ( Right behind a ridge to hide my cut) When you place the pieces together you should have a very minimal seam showing.

1b.jpg

Next I drilled with my scalpel a tiny hole in the middle of each stump, trying to align the hole with the hole in the other side of the stump it would connect to, using this hole or guide I would now drill it with my improvised hand drill. I kept testing the depth the hole with the magnets to try and get it just right, so that it would not stick out ( thus creating a space between the parts when connected) or it would be too deep and the magnets would not stick together. Once I was happy it seemed flush I crazy glued a magnet, made sure the other side had the right polarity pointing outward and tested it out. More then once I had to dig out the magnet and try again because it wasn't flush or the crazy glue would create a thin film and make a space between the parts too, this I just scraped off.

7b.jpg

The rare earth magnets are fun to use and not that expensive, I got 100 for $14 on eBay and that's including the shipping. Making these parts flush is the key.


P1020043.jpg

Now all I have left is to paint the stumps of each hydra a different color so I wont mix up the heads, even though they are almost a perfect match for each other even on the wrong hydra.


Hydra with this stump painted bloody red;
hydra_stump.jpg


Hope you guys liked this mod, any questions please feel free to ask :)


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I'll bet your Kraken conversion, or something like it, would also work well with the Bones Kraken. I might have to try something like that.

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I have another kraken, its made out of Mega Bloks toy was not my original idea but I had fun making it. I know I have pictures of it some where. Let me look it up.

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This one isn't done yet. I still need to drybrush some pink on her tentacles and clean them up a little first to make them smooth ( the ones that had pegs on them I sliced off)

 

Kraken_zpsf0a2c341.jpg

 

KrakenAttack4_zps4203676c.jpg

 

Made these exactly like I did the Octopus, just used larger bases.

 

This is the original toy

 

mega_bloks_pirates_of_the_caribbean_3_da

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Thank you :)

 

I made these for Heroscape but always made a second set on normal bases for my brothers Pathfinder / D&D army. I have several boats made with WIP guides on how I did them, I will be copying them here but didn't want to do it all at once so I didn't swamp this thread to quickly.

 

Still working on my larger ships.

Edited by Gamgan
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I have several of these to post but I think that I am limited to how many pictures can be uploaded per post. I will start by posting on of my favorite ships.

 

This one was supposed to be an easy quick 2 hour project; I mention Heroscape a lot but everything I did that was HS specific can easily be replaced for normal 28mm gaming, ( Will be easier to do too since HS has tons of finicky placement rules)

 

Empress Ship

 

 

 


A few days ago I received in the mail a Mega Bloks Pirates of the Caribbean Empress ship. I think it cost me about $46 with the shipping. It's from 2006 and it can still be found often in eBay but for around that price or closer to $60 at times.


I like her colors and I plan on using her for Heroscape so I wanted to leave her as simple and fast as possible. Minimal painting if any and keep the decks clean.


She is a beautiful ship with really fancy sails, and is very small compared to the other ships like the Flying Dutchman or the Dread Eye's Phantom.



Empress1_zps65dbc050.jpg

The Empress has 4 decks, with the first one not really having very much room. She has some minor decorations that I may skip all together. I like the little red railings and I will see if I can put those back in once the deck is done.

I did trim the bases of the mast a little bit. You see the part that touches the floor with 4 pegs on the bottom, I sawed that off to make more room on the deck. its a very thin piece of plastic and I have just snipped it off with the clippers.

Empress2_zps92c83792.jpg

The middle deck has more room with a center mast smack in the middle. There is a neat golden grate that can hide things but I will cover that up and remove all the cannons and decorations and all the rats my wife added to the ship.


Empress3_zps379c0273.jpg

The stern part of the ship has 3 ladders leading up to the two higher decks. I want to see if I can fit heroscape ladders there or if it will be too snug or maybe not high enough to merit a ladder. The over sized ship wheel base will have to go but I might keep the large wheel itself but change the base it's attached too. Not very much room here on these decks for hexes.

Empress4_zps336b1209.jpg

From the top I remove the mast and decorations and try to figure out how I am going to lay out the deck, this one will be simple, there will be 4 segments and I will keep any modding the a minimum.

Empress5_zpsecaed014.jpg

This overlay I made a while back helps me figure out how much room there is and if I had to move stuff around. Here I will just make the templates and try and lay out the hexes so the most will fit on this tiny ship.

Empress6_zpsd1b8c8c7.jpg

First thing I do to start working on the ship is to cut off all the pegs, from the top view I can see what needs to stay ( The pegs that hold the 3 mast, connect decks together and railings) Since the ship is put together anything that is not for the mast can be cut off. I removed 264 pegs with my nearly dull games workshop clippers. I need a new pair. Took me about 20 minutes to do while I watched YouTube Videos. I did this outside as the pegs shoot all over the place.

There is one tiny part I had to cut off with a mini hacksaw but I could have done with my clippers. In between the golden grate and the forward deck there is a tiny 2 peg block that sticks out. I trimmed that down to keep the middle deck simple.


Empress7_zps472022a7.jpg

This next step took me about an hour and a half, I first made the templates with paper, trying to get them as snug as possible, then I transferred them to thick plastic card ( I used a large outside FOR SALE sign). I made 2 copies, one that I will glue my deck too and a second I keep as a template. You will be able to skip this step as I will upload the templates I made and all you have to do is print cut out and trim as needed. ( Just need help on where I can upload them and how to keep the size correct when scanning them)

Empress8_zpsb346cf6a.jpg

 

Edited by Gamgan
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       We are so pleased you would support our Taloc: Mayan campaign so we can deliver the best RPG sourcebooks for the ancient Mayan world.  Who knows what tales will emerge from the sunken cenotes of this jungle covered setting?  This sourcebook is one of many that we hope to deliver over the next few months so please support this first one and we will bring you even more content for this expansive realm.
      First of many planned supplements  Rich illustrations from leading artists will be included in the production of this storyline to deliver the best quality for you RPG group.
      Rich Artwork and Illustrations We have spent a lot of time investing in new creatures, archetypes and characters that you can play in the game.  These are available as 2D minis with stands for this kickstarter but in the future we hope to do so much more with them!  With your support we can.  Here are some of the archetypes we are working into the setting:
       We are pleased to celebrate the wonderful artwork of the inimitable Freddy Lopez who was the inspiration for all of our monsters and character archetypes.  Please support him and buy his prints!
      We are also pleased to have cover artwork by the inestimable Patrick Blaine who really set the tone for the project.  Please support him and his comics at Top Cow and other places where his art is featured.
    • By SamuraiJack
      https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/studiolevel/the-gardbuk-shrine-wargames-winter-complete-terrai?ref=discovery
       
      About
      The GÅRDBÛK Shrine - it's a mysterious ruin with arcane,  esoteric  history.  Story tells of few beings who have returned from this frozen hell on earth, it seems that the souls of the ancient rulers live within its walls. Each of them must pay the debt to their god GARDBUK for the gift of afterlife, guard the secrets of their Lord's temple from dusk to dawn and kill all daredevils who cross the frozen Bugk river.  Only those whoare foolish enoughor extremely bold toapproach the ruins deliberately, others only when they get lost in this extreme nature ice-bound and snow-covered forest wild.
      Would you dare to learn the secrets of Gardbuk? Will you risk the lives of your soldiers to get to know secrets hidden in the stone cellars of the ruins? Would you fight an epic battle with  ther daredevils who want to find this place , or are you just looking for wargaming winter terrain and frosty scenery?  If the latter is true, The Gardbuk Shrine is definitely for you. 
      Build your dream tabletop game board today with this high resolution, premium printed mousepad gamemat and epic, handcrafted, fully painted StudioLevel terrain system. 
       
       
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