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Been taking a break from painting big dragons, and working on some stuff for my ever-ongoing Shadowrun campaign. I needed some opposition to teach my players 'professionalism', so here's Team Alpha... Mostly Hasselfree, and as always my photography is terrible :)
And, some group shots:
I'm just noticing now how dark these are... I need to figure out white balance!!!
By Dark Horse
The new unofficial Army Creator 2.0.1 is now available for PUBLIC BETA TESTING at the url included below. As of this moment there are still model images that need to be completed and uploaded, but the tool should produce any roster that the older tool could do with a few enhancements.
1) The builder page (and all other pages) may be zoomed in your browser without destroying the page layout.
2) The Database now includes all available models and equipment for each faction, including the expansion armies and beta factions Razig and Halflings.
3) A Roster Name may be added for every army build.
4) Troop names can be used for each troop section (or you can leave empty for the default).
5) Game Points have been added and are optional unless you choose to use a Battle Totem. (Battle Totems appear on the roster with a strikethru if no GPV was added during the build.)
6) Number of Troops per Row can be configured for the output. (The default of 4 is odd given 9 total troops but fills the page better.)
7) Faction Doctrines have been added along with a display of each doctrine in the datacard window using the datacard format.
8) Models and Equipment within any given troop may be re-ordered within that troop via drag-n-drop with your mouse (does not work with touch devices).
9) A "mini" instructions block was added as a footer to the troop build area/column.
10) Army Creator 2.0.1 can be "skinned" with a color theme - though the ability for the user to change the color theme has not been implemented, maybe in a future update.
The Roster Output (Printout) now contains the following additions/enhancements:
1) Roster Name (optional - faction name is used if no roster name is supplied).
2) The full Faction Doctrine (if selected) is included as a section on the 1st Roster Page just below the troop roster.
3) A Warlord Benefits section (if a warlord is in the army) is included on the 1st Roster Page just below the troop roster and after the Doctrine section (if it exists).
4) Innate Spells are now included on the 1st Roster Page after the Warlord Benefits (if any models have innate spells).
5) Special Abilities summary for all models in the army are now more clearly broken down by ability class.
6) The Battle Totem is included in the equipment list of the output.
7) Equipment items are italicized in the roster to more easily distinguish them from the actual models.
8) Spellbooks are now essentially a one page reference for spellcasters by providing all of the stats and spells in one place for each caster.
The Support Site currently provides:
1) A datacard spreadsheet with a quick-overview of model stats.
2) All current official errata for Warlord 2nd Edition.
3) Reference Pages for gameplay, such as Model States, Magic Tomes & Spells (independent of spellcasters), and Special Abilities, with more game reference material to come. (Note: You will ALWAYS need at least one of the books to play the game.)
The Support Site will eventually contain a tournament support tool, campaigns, scenarios, free downloads and other useful information to help you recruit new players and just plain have more fun!
And the current home of the new unofficial Army Creator 2.0.1 is: http://warlord.miniaturegameworks.com
Please report any data discrepancies or functional issues to my inbox in the reapermini forum - thanks!
Also, we should probably extend a Thank You to the folks at Reaper for granting permission to use all of the data and materials necessary to build this tool.
So my husband is running a game this Saturday and he asked "Do you have any robot figures?" and I said "Ummm, let me get back to you."
Happily, I had on hand a copy of Patrick Keith's 50246, "Marie She-Bot" familiar to film aficionados from Fritz Lang's seminal "Metropolis". I also had a handful of little robots from Johnny Lauck's Salvage Crew.
So I glued them together and primed them and painted them very simply with metallic paints. The whole thing took less than an hour.
For metallics I use the principles I learned for gilding: Everything has a color underneath it, usually a rust-red for gold and a black or grey for silver (or aluminum or palladium -- I never could bring myself to gild with something that could decay as fast as silver leaf).
I originally planned to paint the Metropolis robot gold, so I primed her with Red Iron Oxide.
Then I did the same with a little monkey-robot from Johnny Lauck (ignore the two little guys to the right; I didn't get further than this with them and I plan to paint them like plastic anyway, if I get to them before Saturday).
Then my husband pointed out that if I painted the Metropolis robot silver she could stand in for a Moonsilver Alchemical later on. D'oh!
... Okay, so now I was going to see what silver paint looks like over brick red. For science!
I washed over the two red robots with dark paint to bring out the details: Burnt Umber on the little monkeybot, as is normal for under a warm color like gold. But then I used straight Carbon Black on Maria She-Bot since she was going to be cold silver, and black generally looks cold under other colors. I notice that she looks just like the Chinese lacquer sculptures I've seen around, a point worth remembering to try some other time, perhaps.
I also painted black primer on the servo on the left, another Johnny Lauck 'bot. I had to glue that one to a fender washer as it had a tendency to topple over to its left; otherwise its base had been the same size as the other Lauck robots. That's also why it appears now; its glue was setting while I was priming the others. (Once again, ignore the two on the right.)
I then took my good #2 Winsor and Newton series 7 brush and drybrushed silver metallic paint onto the armed servo Lauck 'bot and Marie, She-Bot.
... I find using good brushes helps give a lot of control and evenness, even for this. This wasn't the really scrabbly kind of drybrushing anyway, more like stroking tiny amounts of unthinned paint over the high points of a countoured surface.
Anyhow, you can see the different color effects based on what went under the silver paint, black on the left and brick red on the right. You can also see the detail level difference between Johnny Lauck's sculpt and Patrick Keith's.
Then I did the same thing, only using gold metallic paint, to the Johnny Lauck monkey robot.
I painted their bases solid black. Normally I like a base with at least a neutral grey with shadows, but I was in a hurry and the black contrasted better with their metallic shininess.
I also added a few details, red eyes on the Lauck robots and a glowing yellow inside the armed Lauck bot's gun barrel (Which I see I didn't take pictures of. Need to fix that for the Show Off thread).
And there you have it. Really really fast quick and dirty robot painting. Total painting time: About forty minutes. (With prep time, work time is probably an hour, or a smidgen more)
This is Scale 75's Bitsie or to use the the full title; Ares Condominium, Operator 31, 'Bitsie'. I have no idea what all that means since there's no backstory to the piece. Nada. There are six metal parts and a resin base. I epoxied the base to a wooden block and enlarged it with Aves Apoxie Sculpt, added some kitty litter (fresh!) rocks, some wire rebar, a bent styrene pipe, and the smashed pink teddy bear (also Aves). Overall the fit was fine, but there where some areas where the detail got a bit soft and/or nebulous. It was nothing that couldn't be handled. I pinned and epoxied all of the joints. I was originally going to paint it a medium to dark blue with white trim and red hair, but eventually opted to paint and weather her like a tank. It's the armor and guns...
I used Dremel ball and dovetail cutters to ding up her armor before priming the figure with Floquil Model Railroad Gray Primer (no longer available, BTW). The basic color scheme is Reaper's Olive Drab and Earth Brown triads. Think RAF Spitfire circa 1940. Very military. I painted the small yellow disks on her shoulder armor and use 1/48 British tank registration numbers for the '31'. It was my wavy of tying her into the name. Her undersuit is painted Adamantium Black, while Scorched Metal was used on the vents. I went with red hair (a complement to the green, but everyone knows armed-to-the-teeth red haired space babes rock). The impact marks, scratches, scrapes, dust, and dirt were a combination of dark metal paints, colored pencils, tan/brown washes.
The landscaping is based on Rover HD photos of Mars' surface with the Power Palette to point to the right colors.
Questions and comments are welcomed. No secrets here...
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