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I've put together another couple of experimental hills. Number 1 we've seen before.
Hill #2 has a mix of steep, impassable faces and more-or-less flat terraces that a figure could stand on without immediately tumbling down. It's a bit more usable than Hill #1, while still remaining reasonably naturalistic, but to be truly playable it probably needs to be blockier still. Apart from the flock, vegetation is pretty minimal — just a few areas of clump-foliage — and I think I may add a bit more to make it look a bit less... spotty. I may also have to hit it with the airbrush, as the flock looks a bit more pallid than I'd hoped, but I'll give it another couple of days before I do that as it may just be that the PVA holding everything together isn't properly cured yet so it's still a bit white. We've been having some cool, wet weather lately, and that has really slowed things down.
Hill #3 is a two-peak hill; the upper one is steep, with a flat top to allow figures to stand, while the bottom one is much more gently sloped. The slope is still too much for single figures, but vehicles and figures in movement trays will rest there without sliding back down. There's no foliage on here at all except for the flock, which is fine.
The figures are a 15mm WW1 British 18pdr and crew. The tank is my own 3d-printed A1E1 Independent. They're all sitting on a GW "grass" mat that I picked up cheap some years ago, and have never used because it looks nothing at all like grass. I live in a Land of Grass, and I've never seen grass that looks anything like that colour. Add to that the fact that it sheds worse than a cat in moult, and it's just bloody awful.
About this project
A starter 3D printer begins around $220 (see F.A.Q.) Each pledge level includes all previous pledge levels. The optional $10 Add-On sets shown below can be added to any pledge level by adding the appropriate amount to your core pledge, or select one of the 'Hero' pledge levels that fits your needs. There is no pledge level that includes the 'Prior Kickstarter Add-Ons'. You must add the amount for these sets to whatever pledge level you choose. We do not use an after-campaign pledge manager. All pledges must be in by the end of the campaign. DRAGONLOCK™ is an interlocking terrain system that allows you to create fully modular, multi-level 28mm scale village terrain for your RPG or wargame on your home 3D printer. Each set is delivered in a downloadable .stl format via our online distribution partner DriveThruRPG.com, and once you have the set, you can print as many pieces as you like and never run out or need to purchase more. These terrain sets represent the culmination of over twelve years of gaming terrain design experience.
Fat Dragon Games is the only 3D printer terrain company that is part of the prestigious DriveThruRPG Community Content program, which includes Margaret Weis Productions, Monte Cook Games, and Wizards of the Coast’s DMs Guild. Our Dragonbite Community Creator program allows YOU to sell your own Dragonbite-compatible terrain designs on DriveThruRPG, RPGNow, and Wargame Vault!
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A standard dungeon wall piece costs around $0.40 in plastic to print yourself, far cheaper than factory-made terrain! All of the models shown were printed at 100-200 micron resolution, a common standard on most economical 3D printers. A nice starter printer that can print these files starts around $220 (see our F.A.Q. for more info on printers, printing costs, filaments, and more.)
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PLEASE NOTE: All images that are digital renders are clearly designated as such. We don't want digital renders being mistaken for a real printed model in our previews.
Digital render of the 'Wilderness Encounters' pledge level (final design subject to change).
Sample layout from the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level.
Digital render of the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level (final design subject to change).
Sample layout from the 'Mountain Adventures' pledge level.
Gargoyle brazier model from the 'Dungeon Delve Part 1' pledge level.
I started putting together one of the ships I got from Renaissance games pirate kickstarter. I ended up with 7 ships, and this is the 2nd one I have assembled. Well started to assemble. It's been over 2 years so figured I would give it a go.
Rensissance games is sadly no more. This is s great kit. It was $190.00 during the kickstarter.
It it comes with 24 cannons. I think I will paint the cannons bronze.
this is about 5 hours into it.
Hajad is another sacrife to the toy box level painting (ie. ignore moldlines and any advanced techniques) in my quest to find the "right" zombie skin tone. This time based with 50/50 MSP Vampiric skin and VMC Basic Skin Tone. Covered with a wash of Army Painters blacker colored Dark Tone Ink. This is getting closer to what I want and might be right on with a wash using a brown ink like Strong Tone. I am going to find another sacrificial mini to try a 50/50 mix of the vampiric skin with VMV Dark Fleshwith a brown wash. I think that will give me the grey undead color I want ith enough caucasian skin to look like a fresher conversion to the zombie lifestyle.
I like this model, so will need to look at getting him in metal at some time. For now this one will be used as a ghost pirate in a Hero Kids adventure with my four year old.
Thoughts and comments greatly appreciated.
Since one of my September goals is to at least start the terrain for Dragons Don't Share, I figured I should get cracking.. I opened the box a couple of weeks ago and after a couple of unsuccessful sessions with boiling / cooling, I resigned myself to basing of some sort.
I picked up a slab of hobby plywood at the local hardware store and then proceeded to burn my dremel out trying to use it like a jigsaw. Since we were in between paydays, any further expenses had to wait. So, in the interim, I glued the top of the tower together and green-stuffed the spaces..
This morning, I picked up a jigsaw and cut up some pieces.. (you can see the burned wood where I was ruining my dremel)
As a test, I have glued the smallest piece to the wood - I abortively used Contact Cement, which didn't stop the warpage even after it dried. A Bunch of superglue later, I was ready for a base layer.
Stormy Grey, followed by a wash of RedStone, followed by a wash of Stormy Grey (to cut the redness somewhat) and a thin wash of Misty Grey.
After all that, I remembered that I had picked up Stone Wash on a whim a while back (after doing Narthrax's rocks maybe?), so after this mess dries and I get done with the kids for the evening, I'll see what that does to it ..
There's a lot of stone here and this is going to take me a good long while to do :)
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