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Splitting this one off into his own thread, in order to reduce clutter in the original thread, and also because he won't be a random rainbow dragon anymore.
An employee at a local gaming store introduced me to this model, and shortly after seeing it I pretty much decided I very much so wanted to get my paws on it... So I did! Thing is, I don't plan on doing him up in telltale metallic colours, but instead as more of a synthetic creature with a few mechanical elements.
There will be a number of firsts for me with this project...
First time drilling and pinning a mini First time painting and THEN assembling a mini Very well might be my first time I start sculpting in a few additional elements in order to have it fully fit my theme (one thought right now is making the engine look a lot more biological) First time removing parts to add back in later (front leg armour plates will block details on the legs, so will be temporarily removed and then added back on later)
^Right out of the box, I had an issue or two with his design. First and foremost, while those wings are indeed rather gorgeous, they go straight vertical, which bugs me, simply because they hide so much detail, not to mention I personally feel that if it's a mechanical dragon it would have been designed to at least fold up it's wings when they weren't in use. Secondly, it would have meant I would have to have another element that's painted and then assembled, and I'm more into assembly first, paint second. Third, all those various extra details along his spine would be pointless at most angles, since they'd be concealed by the gargantuan wings.
^So some clippers came out, a few snips and twenty minutes of sanding later, we have it so I can maneuver the wings, and make use of that obvious hinge... Add in a decent amount of blutak to hold it in place temporarily...
^And we now have a much more agreeable to me wingspan! There's a lot more that can be done with this in my eyes as well, as he could be about to take off, just landing, etc
That was last week, and catching up from the previous thread. Now let's get onto the good stuff, aka where we're standing today!
^First and foremost, I drilled three pins total per wing... Two 1mm, and one 1.5mm. Three was probably overkill, but I wanted to be downright certain they'd stay in place. I also though they'd be easier to guide in, but boy was I wrong on that front! Took quite a while to get everything lined up how I wanted it.
^A bit of superglue later, and we have a cameo appearance from Citadel's Undercoat Black, a paint I used to be able to mark just where I was to drill along the inside of where the wing tabs were originally to go.
^Alternate angles showing off his current wingspan, as well as the gaps I'm going to get to fill, and maybe add some additional details into. We'll see what precisely happens, but I already have two different ideas dancing in my head about what to do there, with one being electrical wiring, cogs/gears, and various other things to play up on the mechanical side, while the other one is trying to go with the thought of some sort of liquid latex muscle structure. Second one is arguably riskier, but would definitely convey my idea a lot better.
So, I have a Wyrmgear model and a 120 x 92 mm base to put him on. Problem is, I want to put a tile pattern (probably made from cardboard) on the base, and the Wyrmgear model has rocks as part of his feet. Him walking around on rocks probably wouldn't fit if I wanted to do something indoors, probably in a castle with interesting-looking undamaged tiles.
How might I safely remove the rocks on his feet?
Store link for reference:
By Jordan Peacock
I'm happy to say that I was able to get spray paint AND brush-on to work as primers for my shipping containers. The top-most red shipping container in the picture was painted using a can of red spray paint (Wal-Mart store brand). I started by spraying the underside of the lid and the inside of the container to see how the plastic would hold up. The lid underside dried reasonably quickly, though the interior of the container remained tacky for longer than it usually takes for base-coats on my miniatures to dry (so for a bit I was concerned that this wouldn't work). However, when I let it sit overnight, both pieces were perfectly dry, so I went ahead and painted the whole thing. I had a little trouble with getting coverage in some of the overhang areas (I didn't want to hover around missed spots too much and risk running paint, or melting plastic with the medium), but I could touch that sort of thing up with brushes anyway.
For the other boxes, I painted them up by hand, choosing fairly opaque base colors. One coat won't suffice for even coverage. I have found that the spray-painted box is much more resistant to paint getting scraped off; the spray base coat definitely helps, even with the plastic, as the plastic is just too smooth to provide a very good anchor on its own.
For the box labels, I searched online for images (Google search for "iso container door"), pasted them into a Word document, cropped, and scaled them to height (about 1.75" high, based on an approximation of the height of the model between the bottom and upper "lips"), printed four copies of each door, and then cut out the various label elements to glue onto the boxes.
E.g. (I think this is a picture of a model):
For the double doors, I pretty much used my pictures as a guide for where to paste the labels. The mechanism doesn't correspond perfectly to the structure on the doors of the Reaper Shipping Containers (in fact, the mechanism on the actual model is apparently nonsensical), but it at least gives the basic idea at a glance. Similarly, I know nothing about the meaning behind the various codes printed on the containers; I'm treating it pretty much like text-filler "Greek" -- all that matters is that there's some sort of print so the surface doesn't look conspicuously blank.
(Still, I can't help but think about what a real train enthusiast might think of my boxes. "Why, that's NONSENSE!" Kind of like when I would get some imported Japanese toys with weird pseudo-English stamped on the vehicles. If you couldn't read English, it'd look just fine. And I suspect the reverse would be true for that craze back in the 1980s where random Kanji would be printed on T-shirts and head-bands, and for all I know the characters might spell out, "I Am An Idiot!" rather than the "Super Awesome Ninja Warrior!" message I might have hoped for it to say. :) )
Just about every ISO container reference I could find has flat panel areas for these codes and stats to be printed on, but Reaper's model has every side corrugated. This is a bit problematic, but I just glued down my cut-out paper labels (trying to color-match them as best I could manage), and used my thumbnail to push down the paper into the troughs of the corrugated surface so it might follow the surface a little better.
For "distress," I dry-brushed the corners and underside with the rustiest paint I had (burnt orange), and splattered the whole thing with a bit of black acrylic wash (making puddles on the roof, and doing wash-spatter on the sides by wetting the brush, holding it back with my thumb, and then flicking the surface -- and trying to make sure nothing of importance was also caught in the spatter-range, as that's a very MESSY way of painting).
I roughly painted the locking bars a dark "graphite grey," then went back over with a lighter "granite grey" to make the bars stand out.
I plan on using these for a construction site for a "Fearsome Critters" (Savage Worlds) RPG scenario -- modern day -- but I may also use them as tabletop terrain for a Fallout-themed scenario, so I've tried to keep the boxes somewhat generic by NOT putting big shipping company logos on the sides. (If I ever do that, I'm going to make some stencils, and paint them on, rather than trying to do it with paper. The paper labels are passable for the really small details, but if I'm covering whole sides of the model, at some point I might as well just be making papercraft.)
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